911mot

Only front axle outer CV boots have pass / fail requirements. All the others are advisory items. Stretchy and glued boots do work but be aware they tend to rot away within 18mnths just like cheap steering rack boots. Get genuine and be done for another 20 odd years

Double check you've got the right cam in the right side. Very easy to get them mixed over. Search the PP boards - especially the engine rebuild (not tech) forum

915 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....sway+bar+upside

As long as it's mostly the right way up

Nice welding p.s. you're not going to like this I'm sure the antiroll bar can be fitted upside down, making it foul the transmission.

Your crack is outside the swept area and thus no need to fit the 40mm template as that part of the windscreen (light blue in the picture) is not subject to any pass / fail criteria

Pass and advise The crack is outside 'zone A' (dark blue), and any other area outside the sweep of the wipers is not part of the test (light blue) HTH

this one? from http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....threadid=332548

Time to find another test centre...

I've got Sparco pro 2000s with side mounts fitted onto standard runners so they still move back and forward. You have to help the ears past one another as they touch, it's either that or you can't shut the door! Comfort wise they are mega. (5'10 12.5st) I took the two lower pads out many moons ago and drive on the base of the seat. Much lower and nowhere near as sweaty. If it gets too much, or on a long trip, I use one of the lower backrest cushions (much thinner) to sit on. My dad rode with me to ring and back and found them very comfortable didnt even realise they were fixed back. His seat was in comfort spec ie fully cusioned I use standard 3 point inertia reel belts with no issues, but I doubt they'd be in much use in a big one. Currently have BK harness bar fitted, just don't know how many point belts to get next, I think 4 though. Ps the bar you can see through the hole is actualy a Vauxhall exhaust mount! Makes a perfect camera mount Well, good enough for the Snetterton chaps anyway, see vids below :mad jg:

Hi angusb welcome to the forum. I very much doubt you'd feel a CV problem through the steering wheel. I would start by jacking the front wheels off the ground and checking the lower ball joints for play. With wheel raised grasp tyre at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and shake side to side firmly. If you feel play get someone to shake while you watch the ball joint for movement. Watch for the arm moving up and down as the wheel moves in and out. Any play at all and will need changing, pronto. I had a lower ball joint pop out once as I was reversing on full lock (that's when they load up most) Dam scary but no wing damage *phew*.

Check for corroded fuse terminal in the front fusebox. Allows voltage to flow for test meter but not any current. Twiddle the fuses while someone lifts the sensor plate

Drain and inspect the oil for contamination as a first step

Happened on a hot restart but was ok later? Long shot but could be sticky ignition switch or starter motor staying engaged when engine running? Won't sound like chains over a dustbin lid, but won't sound too good either

1/ any switch anywhere will do as long as it's not insecure and when you press it water squirts onto windscreen 2/ no passenger seat is not a failure but (purely for the MOT), it makes the rear seat the main passenger seat and will thus need a 3 point belt (if the tester realises that) 3/ (a) no problem for the lack of side skirts. (b) no problem for missing torsion bar covers (I assume you mean the 'plug' for the bodywork) 4/ no problem, you dont even need a lid 5/ as you rightly mention you need the bumperettes for the numberplate lamps but none others are needed HTH