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My little Porsche-themed collection: 1:12 917 / RSR Turbo / 930 / 356 1:18 936 / Mini

I have serious GTR envy! I may have added to my stable on that front, just awaiting delivery.

I think you have to contact the organiser of the region you are member of for a code. I definitely got mine from TIPEC this way a couple of years ago

1st time my 1 43 collection has been under one roof, busy stock checking and updating my list Not 100% up to date, missing a few cars, including 14x F1 cars F1 road and GTR's F1's, culled off a few to only include the 2x main drivers Assorted Indy, F3, Formula E and a road car Boxed up and back in the loft they go!

Don’t forget, he does have lovely new shiny paint…….

I guess with that kind of attitude it is indeed best you park somewhere else 😉

Away for a long weekend in Sherwood Forest to celebrate my cousin’s 60th birthday.

Stop it Phill (although I have various options already in my fleabay Watch list and I included the extra wires in my loom 🤭) The car is far from tuned, has no acceleration enhancement & I’m driving it gently. Or so I thought - I use a tracker for security and it shows ‘aggressive acceleration’ at several points during my pre-MOT warm up drive. I could believe that the car is good (it picks up so much better than with CIS and doesn’t feel slow), but the lambda readings do vary by 10% side to side at various times. Whilst this could of course be sensor related, I suspect it is mainly related to different throttle opening rates. How many cars are driving around with significant bank to bank differences ? I’m thankful that I was encouraged to go with twin WBO2 lambda sensors

I have managed to remove guilt from the feelings I have .......... I have three words for you...... Fly By Wire...

So, a cunning plan . It was Phill’s fault that I went Triumph ITB , and he recommended the MaxxECU as well (he must be carrying a lot of guilt !), but Tim (Impmad2000) is to blame for the move to cable operated throttle. There is the potential for a difference left to right in lengths from butterfly axle to the throttle operating linkage rod end and also in the distance from the swivel pivot point to the other end of the rod ended operating linkage rods (I measured a difference of 0.25mm in 72mm centre distance here). These could add up to differences in the rate of throttle opening left to right. Additionally, in my ‘I don’t need that’ removing to clean but not putting back the original Triumph cable brackets, I didn’t realise that I also lost the throttle stop, so determining when 100% throttle opening became somewhat subjective and I could go past fully open and start closing again. My thinking (always a bad sign when I start thinking, its beyond my pay grade, so that’s why I have SWMBO) was that with the original Triumph cable quadrants refitted, I would have a hard stop at full throttle. With cables, adjustment to ensure equal opening would be easier, relative to all the different elements of the rod linkages. So that’s where we’re headed. I needed cables (original Triumph), and I opted for the Sprint RS versions as they’re about 100mm longer than others. I needed to dig out the cable brackets, blast and paint them. This was the easy bit. The other end will need a mechanism to join the cables to the accelerator rod (at the original quadrant) and to pull the cables (enough). This is not the order I did things, but hopefully makes it a little easier to follow. To attach the cables to the accelerator rod, I concocted the idea of a tee bar, attached to the rod via the original rod end. I started with an M12 bolt, cutting the head and the thread off, essentially leaving a piece of round bar. This was cleaned up in the lathe (with a slight pause to fix the lathe – the cross slide bearing pulled out, so I used some thread loc k to ‘stick’ it in place, but that caused an over-night delay (which is one of the reason why I ended up jumping between different elements of this engineering masterpiece – well I can dream, but my standards are low). I roughly marked the centre of the bar, drilled to 5mm and inserted an M5 bolt. Putting this back in the lathe allowed me to spin the rod, while using a tool to mark equal distances each side. While I was at the lathe, I also tapped the rod M5 I tried to use my drill press (quicker than setting up the mill), but the small vice I wanted to hold the rod wouldn’t hold it steady, so I tried drilling using an X-block. https://flic.kr/p/2qKCwGJ [url=https://flic.kr/p/2qKCwGJ][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54314991618_415919911a_c.jpg[/img][/url] This too, allowed the rod to spin a bit, so the eagle eyed will notice that the two small diameter holes are not properly in line. We’ll call this a prototype. I then bolted on the rod end I added bolts into each end – these will trap the throttle cables. Unfortunately, when trying to tap a little deeper, I managed to snap the tap. Not ideal. There was insufficient tap poking out to get pliers onto (I tried), and it was too tight to drift around (tried that as well), so with nothing to loose, I put it in the lathe. By turning down the diameter, I left only the tap end poking out, sufficient to get the pliers on and unscrew the tap. Phew. I then cleaned up the end (re-faced) and then had to take off an equal length on the other end. So now I have a slightly shorter tee-bar, but it will work and I added the bolts into the ends and refitted the rod end. This should pull the cables nicely, but the cable outers need to be restrained, so more bracketry needed. I intended to fabricate something from an offcut of 2mm plate, but while looking for something else (always the way), I found some construction brackets. Hmm. With an initial trim, we have Before this I had tapped two through holes in the quadrant / bracket / thingymagig I also replaced one of the bushings, as a small petrol spillage earlier in the installation had not ended well for the plastic. Luckily, when I replaced them, I had kept the nearly new ones I removed. So, all mocked up, I give you my best Heath Robinson and after a little more trimming With it all bolted back into the car, along with the cables, it was time to work out routing and lengths I marked up the required lengths (the outer sheaths are now 65 and 75cms shorter, so I didn’t need to worry about getting the longer RS cables afterall !) All trimmed up and installed Plans now are to plug in the computer and to reset 100% throttle, adjust cable lengths to give full throttle at the same time and see if the car will run well enough to drive it around and fully warm it up. I can then adjust tick-over and check for left to right balance (using the Syncrometer this time).

Calling any TIPEC members - are you aware of any club car display ticket offers for the Silverstone Festival this year? I want to take the 911 into the circuit but I would rather poke out my own eyes that park amongst the thousands of PCGB cars in the back of beyond. I'll join TIPEC if so. Thanks.

If I get over my lurgy I'll be there Friday & Saturday.

I’m probably going on the Friday, anyone else? https://www.raceretro.com

Interesting, thank you. I think I am going to find another set of what I have been using happily for 16 years or so, another set of Zimmermans

🤷😆

Do you think that Lily could give me some lessons?

P.s on some of my old cars I have fitted any quality discs, I'm talking GSF £25 a pair jobbies! I have never had brake judder (pulsing pedal)...but i have always made sure the disc to hub mating face it totally clean which us where the run out starts. How you clean it is up to you. I have only recently splurged £16 on a tool that is supposed to do it, see my post above. As I said I've not tried it yet on an aircooled 911....but if you work on your other cars it will save doing it by hand

You sure it wasn't brake judder caused by dirt between the disc and the hub? That sounds like what happened. This is why I explained the above. I currently have 3 pairs of brembos fitted and do not have this problem

Brembo quality is not what it was. I fitted a set of Brembo discs to my wife's BMW F11 - had a recurring pulsing pedal ever since. Never had a problem with OE discs.

No pics of you auld codgers 🤷😉🤷😉 At least I didn't miss the meet-up for nothing 🏁🏆

I tweaked my VE map some more & now have 30% less than Phill/Lee all over. Still runs slightly rich when cruising, but MOT passed (maybe with a little creativity on emissions - Dyno not available until 25th). A pair of Triumph Sprint RS cables (longer than others I believe) have arrived this morning, and I’ve been thinking about how I’m going to link them to the rod from the accelerator. I have a cunning plan - watch this space.

Not sure these slotted discs are something I'd fit to my car 🤔 But I wouldn't have any worries about fitting slotted discs with a less offensive groove pattern to my car Just bought front crossed drilled discs for my FJ from Autodoc to go with some new 6 pot Alcon calipers, can't go wrong with Brembo's IMHO Check out Autodoc, they should have a good range of makes for your car and give you size info/engineering drawings too

Thank you, they are a bit rusty after 16 years but I’ve got the figure from a previous reply. Appreciate your response

it is usually written on the disc-on the edge..

Hi Lukas, The P7's have worked out fantastic and they look great on the car. As a matter of fact, I won "Peoples Choice" for best car at the Oslo Motor Show with the car last October- with over 55k visitors it was a really cool acknowledgement, especially since it was the first time I've shown the car.