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About ChesterJLampwick

  • Rank
    IB Addict

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oop North
  • Interests
    Railways, bikes, cars

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1985 Carrera 3.2 Sport, Irisblau
  • Daily Driver
    Mercedes CD270cdi
  • Lottery Car
    Gold rocket car
  • Most-played albums in your iPod/CD Changer
    LA Woman - The Doors
  • Day Job?
  • Favourite Food
  • Drink?
    Yes please
  • Drive of your life
    Manx GP 1997 Newcomers race - finished

Recent Profile Visitors

469 profile views
  1. My 3.2 had a problem with the HiTorque starter I'd fitted, we were at LeMans, packed up and ready to dash for the ferry when it decided not to play any more. Like you I had lights, full battery but no turning over at all. The journey home involved a lot of parking on hills, waiting for the ferry I had people in the queue ready to jump out and push start me, though that was a time when it did work. When I got back I pulled the starter, you can see here where it was arcing. The solution was to go back to the original Bosch starter, a big heavy boat anchor of a thing , that had often had a fit of clicking before starting up, so I bought a new solenoid for £20 or so, cleaned everything up. and its still there today, no more problems. I had to read the OP carefully as I wasn't clear if the engine was turning over - mine does not like starting when it is very hot, particularly when it has been standing and getting heat soaked, I think the fuel vapourises in the rails. I went to a show at Capesthorne the other week, and it was so hot my alloy gear change knob got too hot to touch, and it did not want to fire up, despite the fact it had been running perfectly when I switched off - I thought it was going to need to be towed out of the show arena, that would have been embarrassing... Still it's only a problem for one week of the year, the same week as I wish I had aircon.
  2. Hi Chris, thanks for the offer, unfortunately before I saw your post I had already ordered a pair from an eBay Germany link I discovered here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ampire-Speaker-5-1-8in-Coax-for-Porsche-911-G-Model-73-89-Front-Rear/372666451971#shpCntId photos below, As you can see the outer of the cone is falling apart. There's no reason to assume that the one on the other side is any better, so I will replace both at once.
  3. The problem seems to be with the speaker, rather than the wiring - my multimeter tells me that both wires have continuity from the dash to the speaker, and neither short to earth. The resistance between the two tags on the speaker seems to be zero, I know they are electrically connected but I’m sure the meter shouldn’t go full scale dead short. The next problem is finding one, if I google Blaupunkt CL1340 I get the specifications but none for sale. I found genuine OEM Porsche speakers for sale, at an eye watering £498 + VAT for a pair 😳 Any suggestions for an alternative that would fit straight in, or maybe one of you lightness freaks may have one, or a matching pair - it does weigh a ton, but seems very high quality with a built in woofer.
  4. Update: I’ve narrowed down the problem to the front left speaker, basically if you disconnect it, the system works fine on the other three. Possibly there’s a dead short, I think something was disturbed when the front wings were changed, I think something may have got pinched. The passenger side window switch has never worked since, though bizarrely you can work it from the extra switch on the drivers side. I’ll whip the speaker out to see if there’s anything obvious, failing that I can run on three speakers for now with the fader set well towards the rears, the doors will probably be coming off when my sills and kidney bowls get sorted later in the year, I’ll tell the body shop to see if they check the connections, when I investigated the window switch I found out that there’s a connector for the door wiring hidden somewhere behind the wing where you can’t get to it, does anybody know where / how? @mig, I checked the earth, it seems the stero also earths via the dash as it works when disconnected, Chris T, you posted while I was typing, yes you’re bang on the money!
  5. Well that was a waste of time. i went back to where I bought the stereo and swapped it.for another, fair enough no hassle, no questions asked and guess what? It’s exactly the same!! At least I’ve ruled out a DOA stereo. There must be an iffy connection somewhere, but I’m at a loss to what it could be, as all the lights stay lit, so not obvious that it’s the feed / earth, and how can one bad speaker connection kill all four speakers? Does the amplifier in the radio use switched power? Do the lights/ functions? When the audio briefly worked, it cut out suddenly when we hit a bump, today I had the radio switched on and turned up, there was a definite crackle when I went over a bump / catseye (are all IBs this rigid? I should start a suspension thread!). All four of my speakers are wired straight to the head unit, someone bypassed the centre console fader years ago, by the way. I’m off to wiggle the connections again, to see what happens.
  6. On the car side, the power leads, and the switched supply to the ariel amp, go through a skanky black connector block, which fits nothing I’ve got. The wires out of it are what I’m connected up to. I’m tempted to do away with it, as the red connectors into it don’t look OEM to me. That said the connections haven’t been an issue before, but it is something to check out.
  7. Pretty much so Nige, it’s had many stereos before. The wiring with the stereo had one block branching into two, power and speakers. I had nothing to plug into them so I cut the blocks off and connected straight into the wires I had with bullet connectors. Everything was still labelled from when I fitted the Blaupunkt. i do need to check for 12v in both switched and unswitched wires, I may have one but not the other. I’ve no external amp, Roy.
  8. We’ve had a great run around the Lake District today, and next weekend we’re off to the South West via Goodwood, making up for not using the 3.2 for months (I was trying to sell it, but realised that now is not the time, and anyway it’s way too much fun). Yesterday I decided that while the Blaupunkt radio cassette looks so original, spending a week with barely audible radio and a very small selection of usable cassettes did not appeal, although listening to the flat six symphony is no great burden. I rushed down to Halfords and got a Sony MEX 4300BT for £80, all black, with CD and blue teeth, I decided to join the future. After a long time under the dash, making decent connections for everything using good quality connectors and a crimping tool (I used to spend 5 minutes using twisted wires and insulting tape) all was ready. The unit lit up, paired with my iPhone and started to play my music, it also auto found a few radio stations. All too easy, of course, we were missing one small detail, audio. However much I faffed about with the settings and connections, not a ruddy peep. Today while sat at Forton services messing around with the settings it suddenly burst into life, a bit of a shock as it was turned up to 50, and lasted half an hour before I stupidly said how good it was not having the same 4 cassettes. Since then not a peep, whatever I try. The way I see it, the power connections must be OK, as the functions and lights are perfectly stable. As for the speakers, even if one or two had a duff connection, you’d always have something, not dead silence. i need to get this sorted before I go away, first thought is to take the unit back to Halfords and ask for another, maybe it’s a duffer with a bad connection inside. If it’s the same then maybe it’s my wiring, or something I’m missing in the instructions. It was great when it did work, even the radio sounded strong, Ive always thought my ariel amp may be duff but it’s buried behind the clock, and that bit of fuse wire in the screen is useless, but very light and aerodynamic, typical Porsche. Any advice or suggestions (other than don’t bother and listen to the engine)?
  9. Update: I bought a solenoid for the original starter, which I refitted tonight. The top Allen nut was a pain to get started, after getting the lower one on and semi tight, I stuck the other onto my extended Allen key with grease, and by feel got it started on its stud. At least I didn’t have to semi drop the engine like owners with ‘more desirable’ G50 gearboxes do, apparently. I reconnected the cables and she started right away. I repeated ten times without a problem so fingers crossed all is well again. I'm going to do some touching up with sealant and lube the heater valve before the wheel goes back on, but otherwise job done.
  10. My initial 'quick, buy a new one' strategy was mainly to get to the Silverstone Classic this weekend. I've now decided not to do anything hasty, I can go in my old diesel Merc. If I take the 911 it just means I get to park in a sea of Porsches where mine is just one more. Plus after the long hot thrash back from Classic Le Mans I'd like the time to check her over, even a wash would be nice. Actually, after accidentally registering in the Porsche Classic scheme after a clubnight at the local OPC, maybe they can wash it for me! After 1200 miles worth of summer bugs it looks like its done Le Mans never mind been there. Following Dr Rock's suggestion, I dug out the original starter from the darkest corner of the garage, cleaned it up and had a good look at it. I needed an impact driver to loosen the screws holding the motor together, but the bit was too large to loosen the screws to get the bearing endcap off. I ended up being able to peer in without properly dismantling it, the internal wires limiting what I could do. However I could see with a torch that the commutator was clean, and the brushes had plenty of meat on them. I presume the Bosch solenoid isn't meant to come apart, at least I couldn't find any way in, however I have found the numbers on it and the motor, and ordered a replacement solenoid. No sign of the real thing on the interweb, but a pattern one has to be worth a shot, £30, as stated in an earlier post. I think I need to solder an eye back on to the starter wire, the lightweight one used a clip and tag. Symptoms when I bought the car were similar to now, clicking without starting, but it always did after a bit of drama, the number of tries being related to the number of people watching. I always found that motorcycles with kickstarts use the same principle. I will check the connections that Nathan suggests too.
  11. Thinking this through, the solenoid was clicking and drawing current when it wouldn't start, and no obvious fault makes me think it's the motor I can't trust. In 5 years and 15k miles, I've only had two failures on the car, a cheap and nasty fuel pump, the sort you can buy on eBay for £20, which a garage charged a previous owner good money to fit (I have the receipt in the history) and now my non OEM lightwieght starter. I replaced the pump with an Bosche one, many times the price but I trust it. My local OPC quoted £505 exchange for a new motor, and its in Germany. 😯 I can get a Lucas reconditioned Bosche starter for about £220 after exchange, I think that may be the way to go for peace of mind, given that there is nothing obvious to fix on my existing motor, and if I buy a new lightweight one then a lifespan of four years doesn't seem so great. I still have the original boat anchor of a starter to exchange, which was playing up when I bought the car.
  12. Cambridge's webpage mention WOSP, who have this list of spare solendoids on their website: http://www.wosperformance.co.uk/products/starter-motors/starter-spares/ Not a clue which is mine, and the info Cambridge gave me on their website and invoice is minimal. As Cambridge is the UK stockist as far as I can see, I think I need to call them tomorrow.
  13. Easier said than done when I don't know who made it. This is the current version, from the same vendor. http://www.cambridgemotorsport.com/node/8956 The motor is branded Edge, but not sure its not a proprietory japanese motor / solenoid.
  14. I have a Hi Torque starter, about three years old, it has only failed me once, but sods law being what it is, that was as we were about to leave the campsite at Classic Le Mans. The solenoid clicked but no turning over at all. Good earth strap last time I checked (renewed with starter), a jump from a passing Turbo and rocking in gear made no difference, she started straight away with a tow start. After much parking on hills and keeping her running, we got to Calias (via Dieppe, ferry cancelled) and made our problem known to the people behind us in the queue, so I could switch off. To the relief of everyone, she had fixed herself, and started fine all the way back up North. I got the motor off yesterday, all connections clean and tight. here are the solenoid contacts, a bit iffy about the uneven contact on the top terminal, looks like it wants to arc in one spot, maybe that had carboned up? What does the team think, clean up with emery cloth and replace, or buy a new one just in case the solenoid or a winding are on the way out? Push starting makes new friends, but next time it refuses it will inevitably be another 'worst time or place possible' scenario.
  15. I think mine's a Toronto, while it looks just right, combined with the fuse wire in the glass aerial (typical Porsche weight / drag over function) the radio reception is absolute pants unless you are near the transmitter. I had a play with the Porsche Classic single DIN satnav the other day, that's the business but for the money I'll stick to my Tom Tom when required and listen to the flat six symphony.
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