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About ChesterJLampwick

  • Rank
    IB Addict

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oop North
  • Interests
    Railways, bikes, cars

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1985 Carrera 3.2 Sport, Irisblau
  • Daily Driver
    Mercedes CD270cdi
  • Lottery Car
    Gold rocket car
  • Most-played albums in your iPod/CD Changer
    LA Woman - The Doors
  • Day Job?
  • Favourite Food
  • Drink?
    Yes please
  • Drive of your life
    Manx GP 1997 Newcomers race - finished

Recent Profile Visitors

549 profile views
  1. It was fun watching him trying to find the sunroof switch, and the second hand on the clock not working amused me too. The first trip in mine, bringing it up North from Bath, In the rain, it took me till Birmingham before I figured out the intermittent wiper knob.
  2. Seriously, that's something you probably don't want to Google! As someone already said, your car looks museum quality. Reading this thread from the start, and seeing what happens when people without a clue do serious bodywork without the aid of a jig, was a major influence in deciding to send my 3.2 to an OPC bodyshop for new sills and kidney bowls, where it is currently disemboweled, but on a proper jig. I'm sure my gaping will be immaculate. 😉
  3. No, I may have binned the pictures that came with the 2003 Dick Lovett PPI, it was that bad I didn't want them in the history file. There were large dark orange blurgs below the door catches. As to how it was in 2019 (after another 16 years of secret festering), just imagine a magnet 100% refusing to stick to something that, while looking fine, is supposed to be made of steel, this is an example of how these cars can hide their inner rot so well. Noone else could see it, but I knew the rot was there, big time. If I'd ignored it for long enough, one day I could possibly have gone over a bump and had the door come open on its own, leaving a blooming great hole! Also, a petrol headed mate pointed out that rotten sills are all fine and dandy until you get T-boned, and end up wearing the car, not a jolly thought.
  4. Go whale tail - where else are you going to put your brew / beer can?
  5. Round two is a call from Road and Race about the rust they've found in the front scuttle area. The attached photos show rot where the inner wing meets the scuttle panel. If course you can't see this when the wings are on. As its wings off again and glass out to fix anything in this area, it does make more sense to do it now, although I'm sure it could be ignored for a long time it won't fix itself.
  6. Sadly I'm not as brave as some of you guys, so I am paying many monies to get my 3.2 free of the dreaded orange menace. I've never learned to weld, and this probably isn't the right project to practice on until I can do it neatly. When I bought my 3.2 back in 2013, although it looked solid, even then I knew there were parts of the B posts and the sills where a magnet didn't stick. Looking through the history file, I found a PPI done in 2003 clearly showing a manky B post, and worryingly there were receipts for a pair of jacking tubes, but nothing else. Further investigation revealed fabricated boxes seemingly welded over the original kidney bowls, so I knew all wasn't well, and that the bodgers had been in there. In the meantime, rather than play 'Whack a Mole' with bubbles that appeared on the front wings, I took the car to Road and Race Restorations in Walkden, an OPC approved bodyshop. They said they'd never seen such good paint over such crap repairs, and agreeing that the best course of action was to 'do it once and do it properly', I had them replace the front wings. While they were in there, of course, they found the usual rot along the tops of the inner wings, so that got repaired too. Fast forward five years, to pass an MOT I had bubbles that appeared in the B post and sills made to go away, by a local paint guy. Then I notice a wet, rusty bulge in the luggage space, behind the bumper mounts. I had a go at selling the car, to make it someone else's problem, but with no takers I've decided to bite the bullet, make the rot gone and keep and enjoy the car. While I know the local body shop could have a go, with a car like this I think its worth the extra to have it done by experts, after all it's always nice if you can shut the doors afterwards. Unlike my mate Duncan, who did all his own welding at home on his 70's 911, had it painted, then found his doors didn't shut properly any more. So its back to Road and Race, who put it on a jig to keep the overall shape, and started cutting. As expected the car was shot in all the usual places, then some more - the rot had spread into the floor as well, also where the sills should meet the front wing support there was fresh air, see the first photo. They tacked a support around the B post, before they cut it out, to support the wing and keep it the same profile shape as the door, I wouldn't have thunk of that. You can see the new kidney bowls and sills, the old Frankenstein bowls having gone in the scrap bin. There was a wee bubble above the back light box. This of course is now a hole, they'll repair that as a new rear quarter really would bust the budget. You can see on the photo its been painted twice, the last time was when numb nuts here caught the gate post and dinged the arch - they fixed that when they did the front wings. The light boxes fell apart when they removed them, as discussed on another thread Ive gone for the lighter, cheaper plastic ones, particularly once I found out Porsche ones are about £500 each!
  7. So I only need the 'Carrera CS' door sticker to treble the value of my 3.2 Sport - who knew! You'd really expect that anyone who knew enough about the Club Sport to actually try and buy one wouldn't be fooled for a moment. I don't think the VAD would fit through my garage door, so that's a no from me also. Once Google had worked its magic I did enjoy reading the seller's rave reviews from all those happy punters, as well as their last full accounts on Companies House. For some strange reason the auditors seemed unhappy with how they accounted for cash sales....
  8. No he describes it as 'chrome paint' although its not like any paint I've ever seen.
  9. I got bored with my colour coded Fuchs wheels, which also weren't quite the same shade as the car, to my OCD eyes, and decided that firstly the dullest finish of all (to me) is the technically correct, for my 3.2 Sport, anodised rims with satin black centres and petals. After reading threads on here about Exel's refurb service, and some anguish about which finish, I have gone with the early polished petal look, which was the look when I first started to yearn for a 911 in my late teens, however I can't afford one that old! I saw an ad on eBay for a 3.2 the same Iris Blue as mine with wheels that finish and decided on the spot, also deciding to delete my 'sharks fins' for the cleaner look. This one, photo below, now sold, was a left hooker with no whale tail, but as soon as I saw it I knew it was the look I wanted. Chris came up and collected the wheels from Road and Race Restorations, where 35 years of well hidden rust is being sorted out (another thread for another day) - they didn't need the use of his loan set as the car is on a jig. He sent me the attached pics this week, to say I'm happy is an understatement. I had Type 911 send him a new set of centre caps, as mine weren't suitable for polishing, they are still to do. He says they will come back balanced, with the weights hidden inboard. As part of the service he will deliver them back to where the car is. No bill yet, I'll let you know how much when I do, but his baseline costings discussed on the phone seemed very reasonable for the service.
  10. I ended up having to make two trips to Halfords for mine, the first time I bought a really deep 1/2" drive 27mm socket, only to find it fouled the flat bar that goes across the top of the hole in the stock wheel. I think it locates the horn push. Luckily, I realised before I'd broken the plastic hanger gubbins off the new socket, and took it back swapped it for a much shorter one. Used with an extension, that was a pefect fit.
  11. Thanks for all your contortions, now I know where to grope and what I’m groping for!
  12. The panel with the sliding heater controls in my dash is only lit with one bulb, the other(s) have passed away over time. It isn’t obvious how to get the panel out to get to the bulbs, so I thought I’d ask on here before I do some damage.
  13. While the refurbs are very fine, because mine is in the body shop, there’s no way their hourly rate is going to be viable for patching mine up. The mountings have rotted which is the main problem. As Alex Is happy with his then that’s the route I’ll take, i just worried about whether they were durable. Plus, yes I have a lighter car! Given Porsche’s reputation for charging more for selling you less car I’m surprised they didn’t think of it.
  14. I decided to bite the bullet with my 3.2 and get the underpinnings redone properly, rather than keep playing whack a mole with rust bubbles around the sills and B pillars. At the same time the kidney bowls are being done, having been repaired with some home made fabricated bodge ups in the past. As well as being an investment in the car for it’s future, someone suggested that with rust and filler where there should be steel, I could end up wearing the car in an accident. The car is currently on a jig at Road and Race Restorations, the parts are all there apart from the inner sills, which of course they need first. i swapped emails with them yesterday, about getting Excel wheels to come and take mine away for a refurb, and learned that the rear light clusters, which I knew were a bit rotten had practically fallen out of the car, and need replacing. The choice I have to make is between OEM alloy ones, at over £400 each, and plastic copies at £140ish. Has anyone experience with this? The alloy ones should last better, but it’s putting the thick end of a grand onto an already eye wateringly expensive project. Do the plastic ones fall apart, which is what I’m afraid of?
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