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Everything posted by hagarep
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I have just bought a bottle of this stuff from eBay. Based on recommendation and demonstration by Ratarossa on YouTube, for his 512 BBi trim. Haven't tried it yet.
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You should apply contact adhesive to the channel with a brush and allow to go tacky be fitting the new seals.
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K - Jetronic thermo time switch and cold start valve
hagarep replied to hagarep's topic in Fuel System and Engine Intake Air
I have done my pressure checks and adjustments. I have a slight issue with the effect of vacuum on the lower port, but my residual pressure after shutdown is fine. Plus it starts without issue when hot. -
There are two different size openings for the secondary grille. The smaller of the two is for turbo's AFAIK and feeds a duct to the engine fan. The larger grille is for cars with A/C and a condenser mounted on the underside of the spoiler.
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Rear bumper and valance back from paint today. Everything will get a two stage polish and two coats of ceramic once i get the thing running again!
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Thanks. I did the same repair for a couple of studs that retain the heater flapper boxes.
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Decided whilst waiting for ally sheet to arrive, to fix the broken studs on my C3 rear spoiler rubber lip! 3 of 4 M5 studs are broken so I have got some M8 stud, cut to 25mm, then drilled and tapped to M5 internally. These are then sleeved over the old studs and the holes on the fibreglass part opened out to match. I also added rivnuts in place of the self tapping screw holes for the side fixings.
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Part number can be found on metal centre support just above latch pin. Also on rubber tail, which can be seen imprinted in the paint. You can also see how mine has cracked since being painted!
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Managed to get a new pipe from Porsche for £154 with club discount. Fuel leak now sorted. Tried cranking but not even a cough, so maybe timing is 180 deg. out? Wound it round to 5 deg BTDC and realise the starter pinion is just catching the ring gear. Remember it has a light flywheel, Power clutch and lightweight starter, although I suspect the flywheel. Going to make a couple of shims from 1.5mm ally sheet to space the starter back a bit. Fingers crossed.
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Steel framed! and there's a part number too. I'll get a pic of the location in the morning, but looking at the weave on the back of the fibre glass, I'd almost guarantee that is a genuine'76 tail that had a LH rear wiper. They all crack between the frame and fibreglass. The rubber is harder to find than the tail in my opinion and the studs snap when you try to remove it. Ironically I will be repairing mine tomorrow if the first start goes OK.
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Who can spot the mistake on my fuel pipe to the cold start valve? Better investigate repairing it because they are very pricey compared to some of the other fuel lines.
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Very nice place to work Matt and great decoration! I am extremely jealous.
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First snag. Rear bumper tubes are only available with one part number to cover 1974 to 1989 and come with an M12 stud to mount to the body. Unfortunately 1974 to 1977 cars actually used an M8 stud, so out with the hacksaw and TIG.
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I can't believe it's been nearly a year since I last posted anything about the car. Took most of last year to gather several missing bits for the engine. I changed all seals and hoses, fitted new sensors. Replaced the rear tinware then had it blasted and powder coated. Tidied the engine bay, did some paint and undersealing as well as fitting a new foam pad to the bulkhead and new seals surrounding the engine bay to tinware. Repaired the studs for the heater flapper boxes (more on this later) and fitted the engine just before Christmas. Then exhaust, drive shafts, clutch linkage, throttle linkage, starter and gearbox wiring. That just leaves me: heater cables, engine wiring and rear bumper/valance. Both of which are currently away for paint. Hopefully will crank for oil pressure this weekend and then check fuel pressures again. I still think the WUR needs a rebuild. Just received new number plates from Retro Plates with the original Dick Lovett details on them. Very happy!
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Guys 8:31 is the final drive on all 915 boxes from '75 onwards. prior to that a 7:31 is fitted. Whilst this ratio combined with the revised 5th gear ratio should give 78.77mph @ 36000rpm, it only gives 74.39mph @ 3400rpm Check https://californiamotorsports.net/pages/porsche-915-transmission-specification for the ratios Speed can be calculated using any online ratio calculator, e.g. https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php
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Looks great Les! Looking forward to seeing the re-assembly.
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My calculations do not align exactly with the measurements you gave, but using the ratios in a standard 1978 SC box, you should get 83.2mph @3600 rpm. I think it's safe to assume your gearbox and final drive are standard with a ratio of 8:31 teeth or 3.875:1 ratio (see below) If you wanted to go lower then look for an 8:35 final drive, so your road driving is not too compromised, but these are quite rare and costly.
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More info is required to work this out. Year and model of car to get an idea of gear ratio. Confirmation if readings taken in 4th or 5th Full tyre size to calculate circumference. Most IB's have an 8:31 ratio with the 8:35 being the favourite road upgrade and 3.0 RS spec.
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I admit I have been quite busy on and off with mine, but have not taken photos or posted anything for a long time. I will try to do better as my engine is now in and first crank is scheduled for this weekend. However, updates will be in the early Carrera section. Photo from before Christmas
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Your 3.0 engine should have the 6 bolt crankshaft and be common with Carrera 3.0, 3.0 turbo and more importantly 3.0RS/RSR which means the case is quite sort after for racing. FIA allows your case to be used in 2.7 RS and 2.8 RSR as well. Jason
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HI Justin Very nice car and lovely colours. Always good to see another C3 in the group. Jason
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