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MaxDiesel

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About MaxDiesel

  • Rank
    IB Glitterati

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Sussex

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1987 Carrera 3.4 in Diamond Blue Metallic, 1973 Porsche 914 1.7
  • Favourite Food
    Italian
  • Drink?
    Good red wine

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. As the others have said those studs look like they'll clean up OK. I wouldn't risk trying to change them unless you have the cylinder heads sat on a workbench - even then its still not easy as the original thread lock doesn't seem to release unless its very very hot...
  2. MaxDiesel

    Cayennes

    Thanks Richard - that's really helpful. It sounds like I'm looking for an Allroad with similar options as yours - Sport + technology pack, Audi cockpit etc. I'm glad I'm not the only one that doesn't like the plain 5 spoke alloys - I prefer the multi-spoke ones fitted on some - I'm trying to avoid any with 20" alloys. It sounds like the DSG is much better matched and calibrated in your car than it is in my Q5 - I also have to manoeuvre on an sloping driveway and the pull away is completely different from one day to another. The worst bit with the Q5 is when you roll up to a roundabout and then want to pull out quickly into a gap - the hesitation is so long it often means the gap's gone or you end up lurching out leaving other drivers wondering why you waited so long to pull out! They must have just rushed the calibration... Based on what you've said I think I'll widen my search from just the BiTDI cars and go and have a test drive in one with the DSG box. This should make finding on with the right spec a lot easier as there's only ever a handful of BiTDI ones for sale at any time... 320hp and 650Nm is quite appealing though! (Apologies for hijacking this thread!)
  3. MaxDiesel

    Cayennes

    Interesting... I've been on the look out for a 2-3 year old A6 Allroad for the last month. I've had a Q5 for the last 3years and decided I want to go back to estate with better ride and handling - the Allroad seems like the ideal compromise if I want to keep 4wd. I had an A6 Avant S-line before my Q5 - it was great apart from the slightly harsh ride. I'm encouraged to hear you're enjoying Allroad - how do you find the DSG gearbox ? The DSG ('s-tronic') has been my biggest gripe with my Q5 - its inconsistent and hesitant at low speeds. Based on my Q5 experience I'd made my mind up to go for a torque converter auto next time - in the Allroad you only get this in 315hp BiTDI version which has the ZF 8 speed ('tiptronic'). Finding a BiTDI Allroad with the spec I'm looking for isn't proving easy. Sounds like you find the DSG works fine in yours - have you got the 215 or 268hp version ?
  4. I spent Sunday working on the 914 with my newly acquired BH Repairs lift - as Jevvy says I'm wishing I'd bought one years ago now. Being able to have the car at a comfortable height for whatever task you doing makes things a lot more efficient and less strenuous. I'm welding up the hell hole in the engine bay at the moment - up till this weekend it meant crawling on all fours under the car to then sit on a low st00l in the engine bay... only to realise I needed another tool and to crawl back out again... I'm getting too old for this! With the lift at mid height I'm just ducking in and out and standing in the engine bay to weld. For my needs I think this type of scissor lift works well - its not in the way at all for engine drops, and leaves the sills clear too for welding etc. My only concern with the flat ramp type scissor lifts was the width versus my car and garage - it looked like I'd be loosing some of the working space/clearance. I also want to be able to move the lift between two garages - this seems feasible using the power-pack as a dolly. Some better pictures taken in daylight: This is full height - just over 1.2m to the top frame, then the adapter height. I can't see that I'll every be working on it at this height to be honest - I think 1m max lift would probably be fine. Access from underneath is good - its going to make engine drops much much easier: The mechanical lock mechanism seems pretty robust: This is the lowest mechanically locked height - which is pretty good for general stuff:
  5. I've just picked up one of the BH Repairs scissor lifts (http://bhrepairs.co.uk/) secondhand this week. I'd had an eBay search for a year for one within 15miles and it finally came good. Its a much bigger, heavier bit of kit (450kg!) than the pictures would lead you to think. Getting it out the work's van and down my garden took six of us and methods similar to those they used to build the pyramids! I've got under my 914 and given it a go - it's got plenty of lift height - I'm not planning on going under it when its this high - but glad I built the shed with a high ceiling! Photos below from late Wednesday night after hauling it down the garden: I think it'll be more this height whilst I'm working on it - its rock solid on the lift alone, but the axles stand give some extra reassurance! I'm going to have a better look at it this weekend - but initial impressions are it's a great bit of kit and will make engine drops, suspension work etc. a hell of a lot easier.
  6. Thanks for all the recommendations. In the end I've ordered two cans of Dintrol RC900 Rust Converter with an extension hose to get along the sill. All the reviews of the Dinitrol stuff seem to be very positive - I'm still struggling with the idea of paying ~£60 for 2x 400ml spray cans though!! I'll let you know how it goes.
  7. Looks great - you must be very pleased with how its turned out (I think you need to paint your fan though so it's as shiny as everything else!).
  8. I've been attacking the 'hell hole' under the battery tray on my 914. In the process of cutting back to solid metal I've created an opening in the top of the main longitudinal where I can look up and down the sill. The good news its its solid - but there is surface rust on the inner surfaces. Before I weld up the longitudinal I'd like to treat the rust while I have access (Once all the welding's done I'll also be using Wurth cavity wax). What products have people used ? I'm ideally looking for something I can spray down inside the sill. I found this product on eBay that seems to fit the bill: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-CARLOFON-Pro-Rust-Converter-Rust-Protector-and-Primer-Spray-400-ml-111/263560570981?epid=9016844312&hash=item3d5d6f2865:g:DYIAAOSw~T9aVeA6 Anyone used this ? Thanks Matt
  9. Just measured the Type 4 CHT sensor thread - its M10x1. I thought I had an old 3.2 CHT to compare but I must have binned it - so not sure how this compares.
  10. I've got Type 4 / Porsche 914 CHT sensor sat on my workbench a home - I can measure the thread tonight. It's single wire as far as I recall.
  11. Cheers Jevvy - I was a little sceptical myself but the guy at CBX seems to know his stuff and was happy talk me through exactly how he'd do the cleaning - definitely vapour only which explains why is not cheap...
  12. Tempting... but my aim is to keep the engine bay looking original - so I'm sticking with the 1.7 D-jet injection - which I'm sure would seriously limit the benefit from going any bigger. I dropped the crankcases off at this place for vapour blasting (http://cbxvapourblasting.co.uk/) - its going to be interesting to see how they turn out. The guy had a impressive mix of classic bike and car bits in for cleaning - the finished stuff looked great. Into the measuring and checking phase now. Started by cc'ing the heads Then worked out the piston dome volume by setting the piston a fixed height down the bore and subtracting this volume to get the dome cc This all confirmed the CR was just over the 8.2:1 in the spec book. The 1911 kit has flat top pistons and I think the same compression height - with the new bore size plugged into my spreadsheet I get ~9.3:1 so I'm still going need to tweak the head volumes to get to my target 9.5:1 - this can be done when they're machined for the large bores. Also finished stripping the crank - got the gears pulled off and rods off - all looks to be in good condition: Journals look like new - just need to borrow a micrometer and double check diameters Time to start ordering some new bits 🙂
  13. Bit more progress on the engine this weekend - had a closer look at the bores and the rust marks & pitting from when it stood for many years is worse than I originally thought: I think this is the excuse I was looking for to go for the 1911cc kit 🙂 Spent a tedious couple of hours degreasing and pressure washing all the tinware - can't get over just how much there is on a type 4 engine. This lot is off for blasting and powder coating next: Due to the rust marks on the bores and likely increase in bore size I thought I better pay it safe and check the bottom end too..... All seems fine apart from loads of black sludge in sump. More degreasing and pressure washing... Crank journals look fine There's a place nearby that does vapour blasting - I'm going to see how much they want to the the heads and case halves
  14. I'd spotted the 123 ignition kit - they do one specifically for the Type 4 engines with the injection pulse trigger built in. A colleague of mine has one fitted o his highly tuned Midget and says it works very well with all the other mods he's got. I've seen some guys in the US have managed to get D-jet injection to work with bigger capacities - they've done this by adjusting the fuel pressure regulator and manifold pressure sensor - which I guess makes sense. It'll mean either fitting a Lambda kit or spending some time on a rolling road. Fortunately the rust seems localised to the hell hole and a bit on the jack points - the floors are completely solid unlike others I'd looked at. I'll be taking a deep breadth and cutting back until I get to something solid - going to need to practice my welding as its been a few years! I was aware the 2.0l head had bigger valves - I hadn't realised they changed to 3 stud inlet flange - I guess this means 2.0 heads must have 2.0 inlet manifolds which I'd want to avoid. I used to have a '68 912 many years ago and it was pretty sedate. I ended up rebuilding this as a fully balanced high compression 1720 with mild cam and Weber 44IDFs - this reliably gave ~115hp which was enough to make it fun as it didn't weight as much as a 911. They other thing the makes the 1911cc kit tempting is the price - less than a tenth of the cost of the Mahle 3.4 P&C on my 911! Think I might get stuck into the hell hole rust next and depending on how that goes make the call on bigger P&C.
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