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  • Current 911
    997 Turbo
  • Daily Driver
    2.2 1971 and 1989 3.2
  • Lottery Car
    Dino 246 GT
  • Day Job?
    Buy and sell companies
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  • Drive of your life
    Highway 1 California

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  1. Plan is to get the car to the garage and have a qualified electrician check it out. Clearly there is something wrong with the wiring that's allowing the ignition circuit to become live when operating the doors. I'm not expecting a big deal. The good news is that the problem looks permanent, and not intermittent. Electrics are such a pain!
  2. I think you may be right. When I had the non starting issues, an electrician removed a cobra alarm/immobiliser - thinking that might have been the cause. I'm therefore planning on getting the electrician back out to have a look. It must be something to do with poor wiring... G
  3. Well, an update. Now I have the this happening... I open either door and the ignition comes on! Close the door, ignition goes off. How the hell can the ignition circuit be linked to the door light? Apart from this, the key works fine. So I guess my original problem was not the ignition switch, but an ability of the car to have the ignition circuit becoming live and not over ridden by the key. Any ideas now? Cheers. Gary
  4. Not really. I did give them a little twist as I cleaned the black connector.
  5. Had a good look at that. All good. I then reassembled the whole thing again. Put on battery. Still both red lights on the dial. So decided to start the car and see what happens. Car started, and then switched off as normal. It switched off! All fixed. Perhaps the process of starting it some how got it to reset? It works fine now. Tried it 10 times. All fine. But I'm not 100% I've got to root cause. Perhaps it's a faulty switch... And it needed a reset... But still have nagging worry. Only thing to do is continue trying the car. Cheers. Gary
  6. It's the two red lights. The engine continues to run - even after trying to switch off the engine. I can even remove the key and the engine still runs. I've even pulled off the connector from the switch and both red lights are on the dash
  7. No. I've I've taken the switch right off the connector, lights stay on. The switch and barrel all correctly work. The lights stay on idependent of the switch. Very odd.
  8. I've replaced the ignition switch, having drilled out the barrel. Didn't solve the problem. The lock barrel is fine too. It correctly turns the switch. But the ignition light is on - with key removed. I've even pulled out the switch, and ignition stays on... So what's causing this very frustrating issue? ECU? DME relay? What else ? I'm stuck!
  9. After great hopes and expectations, but changing the switch didn't fix it! Put it all back together, exactly the same issue. Ignition light even with key in off position. Very frustrating. Any ideas? Am I into a new lock barrel? That's going to be expensive. Anything else that might cause this? Cheers. G
  10. I really tried to get that little bugger of a top screw out, no joy. So reverted to drilling out the steering lock. Surprisingly straight forward. Came out fine. Changed over the switch. Just need to reassemble now and fingers crossed. I'll post up in a couple of hours if this fixed it.
  11. I hope so. Everything seems to operate normally, that is the lock engages etc with the key removed. It's just that I can't switch off the ignition. Wondered if I can remove the switch mechanism without drilling out the lock barrel?
  12. Very odd one today. Started car, no problems. Then, when turning off the ignition, I was able to turn it off and remove the key, only to find the engine still running fine! Only way to stop it was to pull off the main HT lead. Am I right in thinking the switch has broken inside? Luckily I have a spare new switch. Is it just a case of drilling out the two fasteners and swapping out the switch? Or is there another likely cause? Could do with sorting as I need the car. Many thanks. Gary
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