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Impact Bumpers


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About carrpet

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    IB Apprentice

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  1. Are they mounted vertically across the 2 M6 bellows protruding studs on the spoiler side ie. towards the rear of the car
  2. I am in the process of rebuilding the spoiler / bumper / valance /bellows on the front of my 930, and am replacing all of the brackets / metalwork etc which are used for attaching the spoiler and bellows. There is a part on the PET catalogue referred to as a "desk pad". There is a left handed version and a right handed version part numbers 930 503 330 00 and 930 503 329 00. These parts were not installed in my car when I removed the bellows & spoiler but I would like to install them correctly as part of this project. I have seen these parts referred to by a USA supplier as a "bellows base" If anyone has any ideas as to what these do and how they should be installed, I would be pleased to hear your views ! Photos would be great !
  3. I discovered that removing the horn assembly gave me all the access I needed to the rear of the bellows. The nuts being protected by the oil cooler in the wheel arch were really easy to remove !. I really didn't fancy moving the oil cooler with the oil pipes still attached it felt solid as rock ! Sometimes good to answer your own questions with a bit of trial and error !
  4. Hi Kevin, What did you do to access the threads hidden behind the oil cooler. I am in exactly the same position. I have undone the oil cooler top mounting bolt and the two lower bolts. I need some confirmation that I can push the oil cooler assembly upwards to release it from the lower mounts so that I can get behind it without disconnecting the oil lines, the fan and the electrics to the fan. Any help you can provide would be most welcome ! Peter
  5. I have inadvertently removed an aluminium vacuum pipe stub from the inlet manifold. I was prizing off the vacuum hose and the aluminium stub came off with it. You can see in the photos the pipe inserted and removed. The pipe is a good push fit and there is some evidence that it has been removed by accident before - there is what appears to be a light green transparent "glue" material in the hole where the pipe locates. It is also clear that if it had popped out before, no effort was made to key the surface of the aluminium. I would like to know if anyone has experienced this and what method of adhesion I should use for a good seal and permanent adhesive fix. All thoughts are most welcome Peter
  6. Thanks. One option is to replace all of the hydraulic moving parts (the two cylinders) as a start point and bleed the system before starting the engine drop. !
  7. Thanks Chris, good input, based on the parts drawing this looks the same.
  8. No knowledge of when clutch was last bled.
  9. Thanks Chris. How easy is it to get at and drop the slave cylinder out of the gearbox ?
  10. Hi there, I could do with some help in diagnosing a clutch problem which I have been living with for years. It is possible that there is / are a combination of factors. The clutch is G50 hydraulic on a 1989 930 convertible which has done 39k miles with less than 1000 miles per year in recent years. I have owned the car since 1998 and 22k miles. The clutch pedal sticks down (about 50% of travel) occasionally and can normally be retrieved by hooking my toe under the clutch pedal. This situation has normally occurred in the past when the engine is hot, on hot days. The clutch also tends to slip under hard acceleration in 3rd gear when the engine is warmed up. Ease off the throttle and the revs immediately drop back to normal. This morning after having the car standing over the winter in my garage the pedal stuck half way down with a cold engine and the clutch was slipping badly in 1st gear. This is the first time I have experienced this. I was able to pull the clutch pedal back to normal position by hand then the clutch operated normally in 1st gear while manoeuvring the car into and out of the garage. Whilst there was a clear connection between the pedal sticking down and the clutch slipping this morning I have never been able to absolutely verify this while driving before. This may be a red herring as the slippage was far more extreme than anything I have experienced before ? I removed the wooden pedal assembly cover this morning and looked for issues - binding, roller pin breakage, spring breakage, leakage of hydraulic fluid etc. Nothing visible. I planned to replace the clutch and pressure plate this summer but this mornings experience makes me want to get to the bottom of the pedal sticking issue before the engine drop. The clutch master cylinder and slave are relatively cheap to replace so replacing the hydraulic moving parts is an option. Before I continued I thought I would float this and see if anyone has experienced anything similar to help me with my diagnostic ? Any thoughts are welcome Peter
  11. Hi Roy, If the contacts have gone in the relay, it will make no difference whether they are normally open or normally closed, they will still fail, and the car won't start, even if they default to "run". I have to say though from a security point of view, if what Jim says is correct it would seem that all you need to do is cut the power supply to the immobiliser and the car will start, which doesn't seem very secure to me ! Peter
  12. Hi Roy, I have had a similar conversation with Guru Jim at H&P and he gave me the same sort of message. I can see your fix working for me too and a low cost solution ! It will also prove the point of failure and complete the diagnostic ! I wonder how reliable the other immobilised circuits are ? Thanks Peter
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