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Gruppe IB
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Crookham Village, Fleet, GU51
  • Interests
    Restoring cars & sailing

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1979 911SC (still a project, but welding, painting, suspension and wiring mostly done, now onto engine rebuild & other reassembling)
  • Daily Driver
    BMW X1 (VFR Vtec motorbike & Range Rover now departed)
  • Lottery Car
    911 3.2 G50 wide body
  • Day Job?
    Retired / Skipper/ instructor (sailing yachts) & pt Ops Mgr
  • Favourite Food
  • Drink?
    Yes please, make mine a Desperados
  • Drive of your life
    Ari Vatenan's Rothmans' rally Escort (after he'd crashed it and Dave Richards and I had to get it out of the forest)

Recent Profile Visitors

866 profile views
  1. What age / model car ? Not looked to closely at my P circuits, but just thinking out loud..... With a dual circuit master cylinder, you could have got the second piston stuck in its bore, blocking off its vent to the reservoir. Having mechanically released pressure to the second circuit, you are now relying on the first piston to pressure both circuits (& it would struggle to pressurise the second circuit). That would need a master cylinder rebuild or replacement.
  2. Assuming that you can get the nuts off the oil tank and engine, drop the complete lines / thermostat and oil cooler as Lesworth suggested. As the pipes are rusty, just dremel the nuts off. If you can't get the nuts off the oil tank and/or engine, dremel them off first, then proceed as above. Heat and swinging on the spanners is the only way. The adapter into the engine is tightened to silly torque, so that should remain in pace, but even if it comes out, it is simple to replace (with a new sealing washer). Do not damage the thermostat if at all possible. If the thre
  3. For Phill et al Another idea for 3D printing to fill your lockdown tedium, gathered when browsing RosePassion for something else. Design a tray to catch spillage when changing oil filter
  4. That brings back memories, but it's been a few years since I've done Box Hill on me motorsickle 😢
  5. The current FD (only been in role a couple of months) is on here and/or DDK. If the coup d’etate is successful, then people like him may be adversely affected, despite not being a part of whatever happened with the Regional Director previously. Interesting times - I’ve no idea what really happened back ‘then’.
  6. If the laptop is in the driver's seat, are you sitting in the passenger seat 🤣 I'm enjoying your journey - thanks for the steady updates
  7. Wait for hydrogen cells powering the electric motors. That will be lighter.
  8. Was ensure about the robustness of the remaining threads, hence the idea of glueing on (as opposed to the option of welding).
  9. For those that aren't following my '79 targa resto in t'other place ... and as per my earlier shout out, I needed a nut and /or thermostat saver / fixers. Paul (combo) kindly sent me a nut and a saver, but I decided that I really needed two so what to do ....... Looking at Paul's saver, it really was for welding on. It seems quite a simple thing, so I ordered some aluminium tube. Not confident that my welding will be up to the job (probably a good shout as I've never actually welded aluminium and only used the TIG a couple of times), I thought about a screw/glue of version. Ro
  10. The shafts can stick - when you tighten the bolts it squeezes the outside of the shaft against the bore. Just tap harder (within reason)
  11. Intercooler in & out ??- yellow & grey (probably, but could be the other way around)
  12. What’s the most heat resistant material your printer can handle Phil ?
  13. I replaced with off-the-shelf connectors, but you can buy the connectors (and terminals ?) from Kroon. Be sitting down when you see the prices though.
  14. The standard rotor has the ignition rev limiter built into it, which could give a mis-fire when old. If you use Jonny's CDI+ box, an option is to use the later 3.2 (non-rev limiting) rotor arm and rely on the soft and hard rev limit options in the CDI+ software.
  15. The lights going dim points towards low voltage. Does the voltage across the battery terminals drop significantly when you spin the starter ?. If the battery voltage drops dramatically, then that points to a duff battery or a starter gone bad and drawing excess current. However, it could also be caused by a dirty connection on the battery terminals or any of the earth and power connections. In this case I would not expect a dramatic drop in battery voltage, measured directly on the terminal posts. Earths - battery to body, gearbox to body, engine to body, earth points under the d
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