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About SirPinkleton

  • Rank
    IB Apprentice

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  • Current 911
    1974 Basket Case
  • Daily Driver
    93 MX5 - built engine & massive turbo. 370bhp is too much :D
  • Day Job?
    Web Developer
  • Drink?
    Whisky (Scottish Single Malt or Japanese blended)
  • Drive of your life
    My MX5, Cadwell Park. Phwoar.
  1. Hey John, Would you do this for 200 + shipping? - Ignition switch (part # 911 613 011 01) and 2 x black anodised door handles with one matching key - £225 Thanks, James
  2. It may be the alcohol talking... but those gutters. At this point it would be foolish not to shave them would it not? I have also just noticed that suspicious section of the gutter in that last picture... how did I miss that on the shell? Shaving them off is starting to seem like a good idea...
  3. Well, 'tomorrow' certainly didn't work out, but it's time to move on to the last parts of the shell that need attention. As you can probably imagine when looking at the rest of it, the windscreen corners are pretty nasty. This isn't something I am too bothered about though as the windscreen aperture is something I already intended to modify - I plan to increase the size of the windscreen mounting flange to accept the 993 bonded windscreen rather than the earlier chunky rubber mount kind. For some reason I thought it would be clever to take pictures of this rust issue from above, so I am actually standing on the tunnel and popping out of the sunroof - hence the weird perspective. As usual, you can see the passenger side is significantly worse off! While I was thinking about windscreen corners I removed some of the paint from the rear screen's lower corners fully expecting to see some hideous rot. For once though, I was pleasantly surprised! In yet another break from the norm, the drivers side looks (slightly) worse this time around. And that brings us to the last part of the shell... the roof. Now I had planned to delete the sunroof from the very beginning so at first, I paid literally no attention to the roof. This changed when I accidentally dropped a Mazda suspension unit on the corner of the sunroof - specifically the front drivers side corner. One of the top mount studs punched a hole through the outer roof skin alerting me to the presence of some pretty localised, but rather nasty rust. I stripped some of the paint back after that to see the extent of the issue and while not too bad it was still rather disheartening! I imagine that damage was caused by blocked sunroof drains and with that in mind I prodded all 4 corners. Surprisingly only the rear passenger side showed any signs of the dreaded rot. Typically though, it was worse! I will be the first to admit that I have no experience at all shaping metal, so I am not confident I can make repair panels to match the curvature / profile of the roof all that well. I had originally planned to follow Tea Boy's example to delete the sunroof, but I would need a much larger section to encompass both patches of corner rot. I did make a couple of attempts to get a suitable section of 993 to fix it all up, but there was always some extra damage that put me off (especially considering the price of the sections!). All is not lost though, I have settled on cutting most of the roof out and replacing it with a carbon panel! Doing this also provides significant amounts of additional access when it comes time to build the full cage. That about covers all of the (currently known) problems with the shell. The doors have major issues too, but solid doors seem pretty easy to come by at reasonable prices, so I may end up just replacing those.
  4. Well what do you know... I just went and picked at the panel and discovered those little vents you mentioned behind whats left of the patch! That part of the wheel well looks original to the car, so maybe this did originally have that auxiliary heater you speak of? Safe to say though, I will not be reinstating that heater or the vents, but it is an interesting little detail about its former life. Thanks for the insight I will be back tomorrow with the last few pictures of its current state and then we can get on with fixing it.
  5. Hah! That actually makes me feel better. Thanks! Welding is something I have wanted to learn how to weld for ages. This shell has been (and still is) the perfect excuse to get equipped and practiced! Thanks for the encouragement. This is exactly what I am hoping will happen. Looking at it now its difficult to see past the worst problems, but I plan to tackle the bits that I hate looking at most first (Front suspension pan, floor and inner LH wheel well - probably in that order). I'm sure I will feel better after that. You are also correct, it does appear the RH torsion tube has been subject to a previous repair. I am not confident in the quality of that previous repair either so I will be checking it over carefully and re-repairing it if necessary. Believe me, replacing the shell has crossed my mind multiple times - I have had it since Feb 2015 and most of the problems illustrated here were uncovered shortly after that. I have had plenty of time to mull this over and have settled on fixing it. I had never considered giving the thing to a shop to fix it - I am far too stubborn and independent to do a thing like that - but I agree, if I was going to pay someone to fix it I would be far better off finding a healthier shell. Maybe that realisation explains its current sorry state? I agree with using repair panels for a lot of it - where available (and economical) that's the way I intend to go about fixing it. I think there is a panel missing from the rear - the piece that the reflector bar mounts to. That would explain most of the small hoes on the rear crossbeam if someone drilled out the spot welds to 'liberate' this piece. The big holes on the corners though? That's a mystery...
  6. Apologies for the delay folks, but its time for to finish the tour of the shells current state. This is what the shell currently looks like after I went through and ground the surface rust away. I sprayed a very thin coat of zinc primer over everything to protect the bare metal and to give a good surface to circle 'areas for improvement' with the trusty sharpie. It appears to be the passenger side that has fared the worst over the decades of neglect it has suffered, so lets start with that side. Passenger front wheel well: I assume that at some point a previous owner did attempt a restoration judging by the amount of apparent repair sections on this thing. However, I have ground back some of the welds around a couple of these repair sections and discovered that about 20% show evidence of poor penetration. This doesn't mean that much really, as I was already planning to treat all previous repairs as suspect and go over everything again anyway. Passenger rear wheel well / inner fender: Yea, its pretty atrocious. Things don't get a lot better when you move around the back to the rear crossbeam: Surprisingly, looking through the pictures of the shell to find suitable ones to post is more eye-opening to the true state of it than actually looking at the real thing. I fear I am becoming blind to its major foibles. The pictures make me think FatKenny might have been right when with the suggestion of re-shelling being easier. Thankfully, things get a little better when we move round to the drivers side rear wheel well: Fear not, it was I who cut out the seat belt mount. I did it during a moment of madness. I plan to run harnesses so I don't need them. In hindsight though, I just gave myself some more (probably unnecessary) work! When I bought the shell, it had that newspaper stuffed into the rear torsion bar mounts. I have no idea why its there, but I still haven't removed it. I am afraid I will find it has harboured moisture and encouraged rust in the tube. I guess I will have to bite the bullet and inspect the inside at some point soon though... The drivers side front wheel well is also in better nick than the passenger side: Does anyone know what could have caused that 'hole' by the early cars ARB mount point? Also is it supposed to have that overlaid piece of sheet metal in that area (or is it a bodged 'repair' that has also failed in the same way)? Fear not guys, I think I only have one more posts worth of moderately depressing pictures to go before I begin its revival.
  7. Last night I verified that the static positioning of all the front end pick up points is bang on spec according to the workshop manual. I tested this between multiple points on both sides with 2 different measuring tapes and 2 people checking (I wanted to be sure as bolt centre to bolt centre is a bit subjective). This is obviously good news, but doesn't change the fact I still have to fix the rust and poor repair jobs anyway. It made me feel a little better about the whole thing though I will be back with the rest of the pictures of the shell later... its not the worst I have seen, but its far from pretty.
  8. Thanks for the responses guys. I appreciate the advice about the Celette and I have been seriously thinking about it. Unfortunately I have realised I will likely have the shell on a jig for a long time as recently I have only found the time to work on it for a few days a month. I wouldn't want to rush the work because I was hiring a jig - there is an awful lot of sheet metal to replace. I have been studying the body repair manual and the good news is, it contains fairly comprehensive dimensions between all the hard points. I am confident I can design and build something to provide accurate reference points in preparation for cutting out the entire front suspension pan and replacing it. I will then be able to check the front lines up with the new panel and adjust if necessary. To be fair though, the bonnet/front lid looks like it sits squarely over the new front and the catches appear to line up fine, so its possible the welding work was just sloppy despite being aligned properly (not naive enough to hold my breath though). I expect it would be easier to use a different shell, but I am committed to bringing this one back to life. I am sure a shop with a jig would be able to do the work quickly and easily, but I am looking to pick up some new skills through this project and I enjoy a good challenge. I guess I could post this thread to DDK as well, but I am terrible at remembering to come back and manage just this one! As you say though, it would be worth it for the additional raft of knowledge.
  9. The front is my main point of concern even though at first glance it looks ok. In front of the fuel tank it looks as if a panel is missing. I will need to check out some exploded diagrams to figure out what panel it is, but again not terrible. A distinct lack of the dreaded rust is always good to see. There are a few small patches of filler visible in front of the suspension towers, but that alone isn't too concerning. Its always been fairly obvious that the car has had a new front at some point - I mean the primer is a dead giveaway. I had hoped the front replacement job had been done by someone competent, but I have been uncovering signs that suggest otherwise. I have deliberately not been showing pictures of the exterior of the shell yet; I'm saving that for last because I got over-zealous and already spent hours and hours stripping the rust and underseal off with a wire wheel before I took any pictures of its original state I do however have this picture (which I really don't like). Its not a good picture because it was only intended to be a view into the garage. You can see (sort of...) that there is a clear divide between the original shell and the replacement front. I had always hoped that beneath that filler would be a near seamless join and they just hadn't got around to rubbing back the initial filler job. Remove the fuel tank though... That picture is out of focus, but I blame that on my disappointment at the inside view of the weld job. Lets get a closer look at the two biggest problems... Now I realise that its just a few gaps that could easily be fixed with a couple of filler plates. That's not really the point though, when I look at that I do not get the impression that the repairer truly cared about his/her work. Why slap filler on before the job is done? The more I thought about that,the more I wondered what other corners were cut or processes overlooked during the transplant? The front most A Arm pickups are part of this new front. Was this work done on a jig? Were accurate measurements taken prior to welding on the front? I don't trust it at all. I'm going to break continuity now, so I can show you more of this welding job. More signs that point to a general lack of care with such a major replacement. This is the drivers side outer seam: and the drivers side from underneath: Now I'm no expert, but those tack welds look horrible to me. In addition to that (and ignoring the huge hole and horrible overlap joint), why was filler applied before it was even welded together? The passenger side is better, but still not fully welded and the welds look to be of questionable quality again: This discovery left me a bit deflated, something that wasn't helped when I grabbed my favourite pointy poking tool and jabbed the drivers side steering rack mount (I think thats what it is anyway) with it: . I didn't even need to poke the passenger side... Its clearly not looking good up front. Repairing all of this is going to be a huge effort and I'm not prepared to go through all of that only to find out the front isn't on straight. In order to this project worthwhile I need to do it properly, and this discovery means that I now need to put this thing on a jig. Problem is, Celette's are very expensive and massive. I have neither the money nor the space to store and use one. That leaves me with only 1 option if I'm going to use this shell. I need to make a jig. But before that there is still more shell to explore!
  10. Continuing on with the tour of the shell, we have the interior. The back seat area looks to be in remarkably good condition (which is a bit of a shame really, as I don't forsee much of that remaining if I choose to go with a 6 speed in the end). It does look like a previous owner was going to have a go cutting what I guess was going to be speaker holes in the back panel. I really don't like the drill holes in a rough circle method, so seeing that abandoned attempt kind of annoys me! I have not hoovered the shell out since I have bought it, so that drill bit and allen key in back seat would have belonged to a previous owner. You can see that the inside passenger wall is covered in surface rust just like the rest of it. I did quickly run a grinder over the passenger seat belt mount as the surface rust was especially bad at that point - clean metal underneath though with no real pitting. I don't have any pictures of the drivers side, but its significantly less rusty - in fact, that's pretty much the experience across the entire shell. For some reason the passenger side has fared significantly worse! A previous owner has also cut the passenger side floor edge out and looks like they were going to do the same with the drivers side, but once again abandoned the job. The floor would bother me less if drivers side edge had been taken too... I'm itching to just cut the whole thing out at this point. Pretty sure it would look better and less daunting with no floor. The footwell areas are the only parts of the floor that are actually rusty. They aren't too bad though. What I assume would be the accelerator pedal mount is in dire need of replacing and there are a few rust holes to deal with. I had a look and a new floor isn't as pricey as I expected, going to mull over whether the cost of it would be would be worth it over stripping this one. There are very few things I hate doing, but grinding off rust and underseal are on that list... On the bright side, the bulkhead is solid! I really like the bulkhead - its like a negative of the finished interior. In the next post we move on to the front...
  11. I woke up this morning and realised I haven't even looked at the car for almost 2 months! To combat my apparent laziness and my tendency to neglect my own project in favour of helping others - I have set a goal to have this car rust free by the end of the year. I know, that's not a particularly exciting goal, but its still a hell of a job. This post (and the next few) aren't really going to contain any progress, we are just going to have a look at what I bought. I was expecting it to be fairly bad and I wasn't wrong. I decided to start at the back, as apart from the crossmember itself, it looked ok. This is my first 911, so I am not 100% sure what things are supposed to look like, but I am pretty sure I'm missing the back panel the reflector mounts to. This is only one of many panels that I believe have been removed from this car sometime in its life. The back is only ok at a glance though, a closer look reveals quite a bit of rust in and around the crevices and seams. As well as some pretty tragic looking bumper mounts and quite a bad parcel shelf (although I'm not too concerned about that one, there likely won't be much original metal left on that panel anyway). The worst panel at the back is the inner passenger side arch though, not just surface rust or pitting on that one, a few actual holes to deal with. My 'favourite' problem back here though... the passenger side heater / flapper box thing (I think anyway, please correct me if I'm wrong) is actually... 'present'. There are more problems back here, but the worst is on the passenger side. It also looks like it has 'benefited' from previous patch repair work at some point - this is a theme that carries on across the entire vehicle. Someone at some point has had a crack at getting it roadworthy. I'm in no position to judge if their work is any good as my welding experience is limited to about 30 minutes of playing around, but I am repeatedly disappointed by the unfinished nature of the welds. None of it has been ground back and in some places the welds are porous or just generally have poor penetration. I was going to continue posting pictures of other parts of the car, but I will do that throughout the rest of the week as I remember coming up against a pictures per post limit last time I posted. Honestly, it has nothing to do with me needing to tidy up the garage in order to get the pictures... nope, nothing at all.
  12. Thanks for the encouragement guys. I haven't had as much time as I would like to work on it recently, but I have an update or two in the wings to catch you guys up to my current position. Those are some nice links, thanks for that. I always prefer to build something instead of buying it if possible, so I will be giving that some serious consideration. I don't have any suitable stock on hand for building that, but I will be buying in some heavy duty material soon to make a chassis jig - maybe there will be enough left overs. We'll see
  13. I did learn a few things from refurbishing the rack. Not having a press is awkward, the poor vice and socket extensions have never been so abused - I will have to get a press to make similar tasks easier in future I want a blasting cabinet - I will likely build my own one later this year Bearings are bearings, no need to spend the extra on 'Porsche' ones In case any of you guys want to know what bearings I used, they are below: Lower Pinion bearing: Koyo 6202 2RS (stock one is open, I used a sealed one) Upper Pinion bearing: SKF HK1712 Rubber bush bearing: SKF HK1712 I paid just over a tenner for those I think, and while I was at it I got bearings for the upper column housing too. That has been in pieces since the rack was taken apart, but as of today, I have neglected to put it back together. Maybe I should get on that... I also noticed I forgot to post the link to the full Photobucket Album - I uploaded 79 images of the rack build alone! http://s1156.photobucket.com/user/sirpinkleton911/library/Hot%20Rod/911%20Steering%20Rack I promise to try and take less pictures in future!
  14. Putting it all together was a simple affair and didn't take very long. The only real issue I had was M12 washers didn't quite fit over the splines on the pinion shaft, this was easily rectified with some careful grinding of the washer's inner bore. A couple of months had passed between dis-assembly and re-assembly so I almost forgot to put the circlip back onto the end of the pinion after bashing on the new lower bearing! I did a dry run to make sure everything mated up properly before liberally lubricating everything with a moly based grease and sealing it up. I was pretty chuffed with the end result - I can tell you. In fact I still am every time I see it. One alteration I will likely make is to replace the big cable ties I used to secure the tie rod boots with stainless locking wire or something as I get the feeling these cable ties might wear through the rubber quickly when in use. There are 2 elements of the rack I haven't touched on yet that are worth mentioning, that rubber dampener between the lower steering shaft and the rack and the rubber bush + bearing that sits on the same lower steering shaft. I did refurbish / modify those in a way that's probably worth highlighting. I noticed you can buy solid replacements for the dampener, but I am wary of both the point and the price of those aluminium pieces. That said however, with the bolt collars out of it was a very malleable rubber piece that I could see potential for improvement in. As such, I roughed up the interior surfaces of the dampener where the bolt collars go, squeezed in significant amounts of black RTV and forced the collars into their homes. After the RTV had dried and I cleaned up the excess I was left with a much much firmer piece that I hope will deform less than the original unit and still dampen some of the extra noise and vibration I suspect you would see with a solid unit. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of this - not sure how that happened! Lastly, that bushing / bearing thing on the lower shaft was in decent shape, but I had already decided to replace all the bearings. When I found the part number though, I had a bit of sticker shock at the quoted price. Seeing as I was planning to replace it anyway, I thought I would dis-assemble the piece to see what I was getting for the money. It turns out that there is a metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing that has a couple of wiper seals and a standard 1712 needle bearing inside. This was all I needed to know to decide to refurbish my own piece, so I simply re-assembled the whole unit with a fresh bearing, liberally greased it up and called it a day. When all that was done I wrapped the whole rack in clingfilm and that's how its sat for months now. I know it was too early to be worrying about steering, but I was happy. It's still one completely refurbished part. Now that its been a few months though... I am going to end up replacing the shiny new tie rod ends with rose jointed ones for bump steer correction at some point and those Quaife machined quicker ratio rack and pinion sets are mighty tempting... Apologies for the length of time it took to post this update, I had trouble finding the time to review the nearly 130 photos I have that are applicable to this post! There are many many more photos available if you click through to the Photobucket album. Taking too many photos is a bad habit of mine that appears incompatible with this board. I will have to try and post little and often instead I think!
  15. While the shell was in storage, I had good intentions of sorting through the boxes of parts that came along with it. However, that didn't really happen, every time I looked at it I couldn't muster the determination to get on with it... there was just so much to go through. When I moved the shell to its current home in my garage, I took the chance to throw away parts that I deemed too far gone to repair or sell. This was a good decision, as it cut down on the amount of junk I had to transport and store by at least 20%! Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of these casualties and as this is my first 911, I couldn't really tell what some of that stuff was at the time so no doubt I will have tossed something out I shouldn't have!. Examples of the stuff I have taken to the recycling center / skip / dump include badly corroded brake discs, every single loose fastener, heat exchangers (rust poured out of the primaries when tilted!), original muffler and spring plate covers that were barely recognizable among many many other things. The plastic bottles were also really brittle - I dropped the brake fluid reservoir and it shattered - so every plastic tank / bottle was thrown out. This caused a bit of a stir when the 'resident dump guy' (you know the one, that one guy who is always there and way too friendly) recognised some of the parts as being from a Porsche and ran over shouting at me to stop throwing it all away! Turned out he loves classic 911s and hoped to own one someday and as I was leaving I could see him 'liberating' some of the things I had thrown out. I only recently threw away some of the textiles like the carpets (looked like the shell housed a multitude of rodents at some point) and the super crusty headliners that you could tear as if it was paper. Unfortunately, even though I have thinned down the piles of junk I still haven't actually gone through all the boxes to catalog what I have. Maybe one day... Remember in the first post I said this... Well, while it was in storage I decided I really wanted to get on with the project in at least a small way, so I went and retrieved the steering rack to rebuild. In my mind, this was important, but rest assured that both my friends and family have already pointed out I had more pressing tasks than this! I wasn't deterred though, even though this was actually the first time I had ever seen a steering rack up close so I didn't really know what to look for. It did turn fairly freely by hand though so I was pretty happy with it. Not knowing how something works or goes together as never stopped me before, and this was no exception. Taking it apart was relatively easy and before too long I had it stripped down to most of the component parts. I was fairly pleased with myself after this success until I noticed a buch of loose needle roller bearings resting in the folds of the sheet I had done the disassembly on. At the time I had no idea where they were from, so I gathered up all I could see, bagged them and took a picture for identifying later. It turns out the outer race of the upper pinion bearing was still present in the rack and upon knocking the pinion shaft out, the rollers had fallen out and gone everywhere unbeknownst to me. I later knocked the race out with a 1/4" extension and a BFH. It took bloody ages to clean up the rack as there was quite a lot of grease on the inside (a good thing I guess) and a lot of corrosion / blooming on the rack body that I wanted to remove. I had no idea how to clean any of this stuff and I was reluctant to go out and buy anything, so after exhausting all the household cleaners I had on hand (Cilit Bang grease remover being the only real success) I set about removing corrosion with dremel mounted wire wheels. I did fairly well with that method and eventually had it as clean as I was likely to get it. Cleaning up all the other parts was far simpler. I threw every single fastener away in favour of using new ones, cleaned the grease off all the parts, disassembled the pinion shaft and even micropolished the teeth on both the rack and pinion with rising grades of paper (ended on 3000 grit). When the cleaning was finished, I inspected the condition of all the important parts and as far as I could tell it was all in good order. Looking at the wear on the gears and the condition of all the grease I removed, I would be surprised if this rack had seen that much action. I ordered all the miscellaneous parts I needed to rebuild the rack from Rose Passion (except the bearings, I bought those from a bearing supplier using the standardised part numbers. The trick there is to buy a quality brand like Koyo or SKF and then you can't really go wrong) and a set of Lemforder turbo tie rods and ends. I gave the rack body, caps and steering shafts (lower and intermediate) a lick of paint in an attempt to keep everything looking fresh and prevent me ever having to clean them up like this again. Plus, I like how the finished product ended up and that's enough of a reason for me! Yes, that is a broom padded with masking tape holding the rack for painting - worked perfectly allowing me to rotate it while spraying and preventing any over-spray on the inside. I have since used this method to paint all kinds of cylindrical things!

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