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Ady1971

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    134
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About Ady1971

  • Rank
    Hooked on IB

Profile Information

  • Location
    Essex

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1987 Carrera coupe sport: after a full body restoration & repaint, slowly getting there: one fix at a time.
  • Daily Driver
    BMW 530e
  • Lottery Car
    Ferrari 458
  • Day Job?
    Marketing stuff

Recent Profile Visitors

490 profile views
  1. Ivan, Great.... so next steps: 1. slacken off the cable on the 17mm nuts (again) 2. Rotate the star wheel the correct way up 3. expand the star wheel to the point where the drum rubs / back off 3 - 4 turns 4. tighten up the cable I did try this before, but I couldn't rotate the disc at all when I adjusted the star wheel a tiny amount; and when fully backed off, only had marginal movement. I will repeat the steps above to see if there is any change.
  2. Ivan, I did loosen the handbrake cable using the 17mm nuts. As soon as I put the disc on, and tighten the retaining screws up, the disc is almost impossible to rotate. Adjusting the star wheel just makes it even tighter. I am no expert, but it feels like the expander is being pushed in by the end of the cable, pushing the shoes apart. Could this be the return spring, or the spring between the expanders?
  3. Phil - tried both ways around: no change. Ivan - please could you explain a little more. Do I have the shoe in the wrong way around?
  4. They've always done that - is it wrong? Yep tried that... no change?
  5. Evening, I replaced the handbrake shoes today: one side is fine and spins freely; the other - which is installed the same way - is rubbing when I tighten the disc up (I can barely rotate the disc). I've attached a couple of photos - is there anything obviously wrong? It looks to me that the expander is preventing the shoes from resting on the assembly? Could it be the return spring is installed wrong, or lost tension? I have tried slackening the handbrake cable off, to no avail. Any suggestions are most welcome...
  6. Can I be second reserve: really need to replace mine....
  7. if you're offering 🤩
  8. Richard, Swing by anytime - its the least I can do given all the help you've given me 😉
  9. ...so I finally got the auto heat working. I traced the fault to the cabin sensor having too much resistance: the servo fully opening as a result (the same effect came be obtained by disconnecting the cabin sensor). The resistance at the connector for the cabin sensor was over 3k ohm - target is 1.9k ohm (at 20 degrees) I removed the old resistors, and found a 2.2k Thermistor combined with a 6.8k ohm resistor in parallel gave 1.86k ohms. Removing the old resistors, and soldering in the new, was quite straight forward. Refitted to the car today and appears to be working - it was harding getting to 20 degrees today, but using a hair dryer to warm up the cabin, the servo would adjust back and forth depending on the setting.
  10. Angus, Thanks. Yes - I have, and it is. I have also checked the value of the potentiometer when set at position 5: that's almost spot on too. I am convinced its the interior cabin sensor being too far out of range: hence my recent question regarding replacing the resistors in this unit.
  11. Mark, I am referring to the cabin temperature sensor (said fan - should be 'inside temp sensor blower' according to Bentley wiring diagram). This appears to be connected to the auto heat via connector B and should have a resistance of 1.9K Ohms. Mine is reading between 2.5 and 2.6k ohms. From looking at the part (911.624.065.00), there is a resistor and thermistor (?) at the end (which I assume changes resistance as the cabin temperature changes) which is connected to the auto heat via blue / blue / white wires at point B. My question is therefore, can you just resolver new resistors in place and if so, anyone know the values (a thread on PelicanParts suggests 2.2k Ohm thermistor with an 11k ohm resistor in parallel)?
  12. Jonny, Thanks for this. I found the reason for the open circuit - the wires in the multi-plug were in the wrong positions! However, having rectified this, the resistance values are still too high. The values are wires from auto heat module to fan assembly = just 0.3 ohms and with the fan connected its 2.57 / 2.62k ohms (Bentley manual says 1.9k ohms). Presumably the sensor in the fan is shot? Can this be replaced, or is it a new assembly needed?
  13. Mark, Thanks for taking the time to reply. I have searched through the forum, hence tracing the fault to the cabin sensor being an open circuit. I am not very knowledgeable on car electrics so perhaps I should have asked different questions: What is an open circuit? Can you have an open circuit in the wiring to the sensor, or is it likely to be the sensor unit itself causing the problem? Can I check the sensor unit to see if its within tolerances etc?
  14. Hi, I am trying to get the auto heat working on my '87 Coupe. The issue is that the servo extends to max heat position on selecting position 1. According to the Bentley Manual it's an open circuit on the cabin heat sensor, or the setting of the potentiometer. On checking the wiring, sure enough I have an open circuit on the cabin sensor. However, when I check for continuity along either wire with the connector plug at the sensor - it has continuity. So, my question is whether the fault is with the wiring to the sensor, or a fault within the sensor itself (I measured resistance across the 2 terminals and it was very high at 2.28k ohms)? Any help welcome...
  15. My auto heat cabin sensor fan runs constantly - wasn't sure if it is supposed to or not (is a winter job)? The motor is just behind the ashtray.
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