reddevil

You can send them to Speedy Cables but you might be waiting months. Their company name is ironic and moronic. Send me a pic I might have one. I've only used the Aldon ignitors. Might be the same thing!

Working one day, not the next. Incorrect curves (although some are programmable). Rough running on my last 1750, swapped it out for a rebuilt Bosch unit Bob did for me, car ran a lot better and looked original. The ignitor route is also cheaper! I just used this calculator - https://www.omnicalculator.com/everyday-life/rpm - on a 70 series 14" tyres it calculates about 3500rpm at 70 even on a 4.55:1 diff. Dropping to about 3200 for the 4.1. The other variable might be the gearbox - a 1300 Jnr box has a shorter 5th gear (0.86 vs 0.79) but it doesn't make that much difference. The speedos are generally not too inaccurate, and easy to check with a GPS app on your phone. But the rev counters can be 1000rpm out by 4500!! A mechanic can check it with a timing gun. Chris

Very nice. LEDs a good idea you won't need relays if you fit them as they're so much lower power than the standard bulbs. Gil at Better Car Lighting is your man his headlight kits especially are excellent have them on all my Alfas and the 911: https://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk/ Starter relay is easy and a very good idea. On the ignition side, may I suggest you skip a 123 and instead fit an Aldon ignitor under the original dizzy? I've had numerous problems with the 123 units and an ignitor is a simple way to get rid of the points and maintain the original dizzy curve. In fact I'd probably send the dizzy off to Bob Dove for a quick rebuild and setup first before fitting the Aldon unit. https://www.aldonauto.co.uk/productlist.aspx?SID=24 https://www.facebook.com/bobdovemotorsport/?locale=en_GB Re. motorway cruising, the 2000 from memory should already have quite a long 4.1 or 4.3:1 rear axle with LSD. This should be fine at 70-90 in 5th. My earlier 1750 model doesn't have an LSD but could really do with one, but it's fine at a cruise roof off up to 90mph. 1300 Juniors and US spec Spiders had shorter 4.55:1, which would run about 4k RPM at 70-80mph depending on tyres. You can tell whether or not the unit is a ZF LSD as the sump of the diff will have its fins arranged in a K shape. If it's not an LSD could have been swapped for a Junior axle or a US-spec one.

I am running a fan in front of the rad. There’s not a lot of room on the super to do so, as the front panel is much closer to the rad than in a spider or coupe. But careful selection you can get one (or two smaller ones) in there. There is room behind the rad to fit a puller one too. The modern slimline revotec or SPAL ones should fit - previously this car ran one, so I have a spare which you’re welcome to if you would like it (otherwise it will just sit on my spares shelf…)

Today I made a bracket for the oil cooler, using the @tea boy method... Didn't have any Frosties so Tesco brand mince pies and had to make do... I could have probably made it a bit lighter, but I ran out of cutting discs for my pendant drill...

No, the action is all on FB... Couple of groups worth joining on there. AlfaBB good for technical info. FYI the really early cars (`63) have column change, six seats (front bench) umbrella handbrake that comes out of the dash, and massive drum brakes all round. My 65 has a dash similar to yours and a floor shift, but still retains the umbrella handbrake. Which is cool because the dog can sit between us on the tunnel up front. Chris

Those are early 15” steelies too. Very rare. Have you seen the bonkers factory carpets on the earlier cars? Unfortunately mine were replaced with awful cheap sandpaper shag pile in SA… Here’s what they should look like.

Don’t let this idea die… it’s 100% what this forum needs… The Glynn Tapes, from sub zero sheds across the land!

Am 100% with you on the weather. Been faffing about fitting an oil cooler for the last week. Designing brackets inside on Fusion 360 is more appealing than actually making a them inside the workshop!

Excellent work!

The rotor arm was a cheap fix, but new front brake lines, refurb calipers and a new duo valve and radiator less so!

Probably time for an update. Didn't manage any racing this year, as first time out at the CSCC test day in Feb we had a major engine issue. So it's been sat in my storage unit or a year whilst the engine was with Bob Dove to sort out. And sort it out he has, he has built us an absolute screamer of a 1600! There's a video of it on the dyno on Instagram somewhere... Now back in, I've tidied the wiring, taken the opportunity to go through everything and now need to fit a new extinguisher system (change of regs) and we'll be out racing next year.

This is going to be mega... Ian Ellis is a good guy. Looking forward to the updates. The secret is, of all the 105 variants, the saloon is the best to drive as a road car. They're also the best built, the doors shut like a german car when set up correctly. And of course they're the cheapest variant... I've got two...😇 I've been doing this one up for s few months ('65 Bollino D'Oro) ready for sale in the Spring, it's a riot!

Bizmerc running issues fixed... Rotor arm had corrosion on the underside, although the tips looked good the continuity through it was patchy and it was breaking down. I think the low compression was bore wash (due to persistent non-start and poor spark) and the head gasket not required, runs perfectly with a new rotor arm. It has a slightly leaky radiator explaining the loss of coolant. It needs some bits for the MOT then I'll smoke around in it and reassess....

Yup, not sure about the repair on that… he was driving it on Tuesday though.