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Everything posted by reddevil

  1. It's for a customer who gave his heat exchangers away many years ago as he was intending to convert the car to a race car... That was 15 years ago and now it's going back standard! Could be an option if yours are original and in reasonable condition... I'll email you, but design911 trade is considerably cheaper than website prices... 😉 Tight budget on this one as everything needs doing. If it was my car would be going stainless of course.
  2. Anyone got any experience good or bad to share of this Design911 mild steel system on a standard Carrera 3.2? https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod1763/Exhaust-Replacement-Package-for-Porsche-911-32L-1984-89/ Thanks, Chris
  3. Answered my own question… it’s 87b you need to jump for the pump, DME relay is knackered!
  4. 1987 Carrera 3.2... Had trouble getting the car to start, would crank on the key, run momentarily - catch then die. After a few attempts the car would start, run and drive - went out for a 20 mile run no problem when driving. Trying to start again, a couple of attempts and again would run - then as pulling away died and stayed dead. Attached battery booster pack and let everything cool off and started first time. Next day back in the garage, same issue won't start. Checked ignition - OK. No fuel pressure on cranking and pump not running. Checked all the wiring underneath to the fuel pump - OK, earths good. Removed the DME relay and bridged pin 30 and 87 - according the Bentley, the fuel pump should run at this point - nope. Bridged fuse 6 (fuel pump) to ignition supply. Pump runs and car starts right up. Obviously I can run and drive like this but it's not correct - is this a common fault anything else I can try? If pin 30 and 87 bridged with DME removed should make the pump run, I don't think it's the DME relay... Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  5. Clear coat over the bare metal and the patches and off you go! Seriously though one of our neighbours is doing an ISO Grif exactly like this. Solid and eat your dinner off it underneath but simply clearcoated over the significant patina on the top for a zero ****s given daily driven classic.
  6. Thanks, I’ll give you a call in the morning.
  7. Update on the AD08RS I fitted. I think they're actually a bit too sticky in the dry and you can't move the car around as much, or as predictably as on the S-02's. I feel they'd be better on a 911 with nearer 300bhp.
  8. I'm looking for suppliers for a full rebush kit (standard rubber - not Poly) for a 3.2 we're rebuilding. Design911 tell me Porsche will only supply you them as part of new arms/spring plates and only the ARB ones can be supplied... Anyone got a supplier for these of reasonable quality? In this instance a full kit from Elephant is a bit spendy. Thanks!
  9. I couldn't find a set anywhere last week - ended up with AD08s instead.
  10. Yup I think you're right. But swapping vynal for the soft Muirhead leather - I don't think I can't pass that up..... Next winter's project.
  11. Hi Chris, I sourced the fabric from a dress maker in Scotland (of course) and I had our trimmer make them up over the standard Recaro foams. Finished with scotchguard for the inevitable in-car spillages that occur from time to time.. Wool floor mats from cocomats - I think for the time, cost and fit next time I will just get the trimmer to make those. Next step is to get the dashtop, window tops and seat retrimmed in leather, I can't decide whether yellow double stitching on the seats is too much. What do you think?
  12. Some new boots fitted today (Yokohama AD08RS). Not really fair to compare 6-year old S02s to new tyres, but obviously there's more grip but also more "give" in the chassis and brakes overall. Need more miles before I can hussle the car as you could with the Bridgestones, but on first impressions they also ride harsher than the older tyres. In other news, tartan heated seat covers finally installed. And a new badge.
  13. Anyone else see that and think...
  14. I needed some new tyres - been on Bridgestone S02s for the last five years and been very happy with them, but couldn't find stock anywhere at all. PS4 was an option but the only place I could source was from Germany - MyTyres.co.uk which has had terrible reviews since Brexit - obviously struggling to ship to UK customers. In the end I've gone for Yokohama AD08RS - I have the older "good" AD08R on the Alfa. Since they have gone to RS spec the compound is harder so the tyre apparently is not what it once was. Camskill and all the usual places didn't have stock but I found Demon Tweeks had them on the shelf and I had the last two rears (225/50). Even though they are now shot on the inner edge (rears) and at 5 years old I still rate the S-02s, was out for a blast yesterday in 5degC conditions and they are still awesome. If I could have sourced a new set I would have had another. A welcome treat was they were just over £400 shipped - compared to modern cars this is so cheap. I think I paid £1000 for a set of Cup2s last year in a relatively modest 18" size....
  15. Nice car! We are doing a South African Super in the workshop at the moment for a customer, lots of Alfaholics kit being thrown at it. I've also convinced a friend to buy an ex-HSCC race car which we're converting to a fast road car for him. And we have a step front coming in next month for some fast road treatment... Meanwhile I have been spending the cold, hard winter re-wiring my GT Junior "evo". Rewiring doesn't quite do it justice, it's been converted to an AIM PDM system with GPS, CANBUS, camera system and full data logger. Extended scope creep means I've re-engineered the whole dash, heater box and interior.... Not one for the purists, AIM is at least an Italian company....
  16. Been a while since I updated this thread. Covid obviously completely shuttered our motorsport business first part of this year and we've literally done no customer races (all were cancelled) but we've been out twice in the MX-5 in Britcar, Croft earlier this year and weekend before last at Silverstone which resulted in a gearbox failure and double DNF! Video - yes I know my race craft is very rusty, but prior to this less than an hour racing in the car this year! I've found and fitted a new gearbox and upgraded the diff from the standard LSD to a Quaife LSD I had left over from another race car deal.... In time for the Birkett 6hr relay this weekend, we're teaming up with Rouge Motorsport (who ran the Top Gear guys a few years ago in the Birkett - they raced a Bentley TurboR if I recall!) It's going to be a wet one but I have some Dunlop cut slicks.... Our team is an MR2, GT86 our MX-5 and a buddy in an ex-VW Vento cup car from the early 00's. End of season knees up!
  17. Booked. Two in a row woo hoo!
  18. Not racing at Pembrey now, just cancelled! Tell me more about Anglesey.
  19. re. Claire Williams, she's done a pretty good job as chief exec netting north of $100M for the family coffers after debts have been settled... I'd say that was good business given the alternatives.
  20. Racing at Pembrey that weekend, which is a shame as I have credit with Javelin for a day....
  21. Late to this! I have the Schroth ASM 4-point belts in my car they are brilliant. 3in shoulder straps but smaller width hip straps made from seatbelt-like material for comfort. They're perfect for a dual purpose road/track car. The antisubmarine technology is actually a designed-in weak point in the shoulder strap closest to the centre of the car. In a heavy impact, the stitching splits and unlocks a couple more inches of slack in that belt, letting your torso tilt as it would with a three point belt. This tilt is why a conventional seatbelt protects against submarining. It's the yellow bit in this pic. For this reason the belts are "handed" so make sure you buy a LH and RH set and pay attention on install. They are much better quality than the Willians they replaced, much more convenient and much more comfortable - I never use the conventional three point belt in the car anymore. I've used a lot of belts over the years, Willians, Sabelt, the more expensive TRS enduro style - these are the dogs and worth the extra few pounds.
  22. My bp just did some racing tuition with Driver61. Full circuit completely to themselves, 1-2-1 using their car. Similar prices. I think it will make him 2-3s faster round Donny for example so cheaper than car upgrades.
  23. Visit to WHM Sport (engine builder) on Friday for a checkup. After a timing check we did some full load runs with the wide band lambda, and Warren gave me the thumbs up - running in done - ready to race. We had a couple of runs through the gears up to the red line and all I can say is the engine is a complete jekyll and hyde - it's quiet and unassuming at idle, sweet below 3000rpm but as you pile on the revs it turns into an angry little b******! It has to be heard to be believed, I'll get some video! It's also a bit of a torque monster - could probably take some wilder cams - but very drivable so in the real world although sacrificing some top end BHP I think it will be a great compromise. We're going to do the final tune "live" on a local airfield, and after that we'll go to the dyno and see what we have. Meanwhile I suspect the throttle linkage needed going through again as I am not getting the last 10% of butterfly articulation so had the TBs off yesterday to take a look - the quadrant pivot on the inlet side had some play (fixed mostly with a washer) and the bush on the end of the pedal assembly had turned to mush so new one ordered.
  24. Thanks Baz, got a couple hundred miles on the engine now and an oil change, still limited to 5000rpm and light loads but it feels full of energy... Got a prop vibration issue to attend to, new centre bearing ordered and hopefully will fit tomorrow, but aside from that slowly falling back in love with the car. Thinking about ceramic coating the exhaust manifold because the under bonnet temps are quite high... Will be making quite a difference without a cold air feed and an air box.
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