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  1. The 1977 SC Targa chassis numbers begin with 9118310001, but I don't know how LHD and RHD versions are serialised. I think there were 1728 in total built (excluding the US version which is ...82... chassis numbered). Hope this helps.
  2. If you did the patio in resin-bound aggregate then I think it will look nice, my drive does. Occasionally I get stain marks on the drive, but a quick squirt with Cillit Bang black mould remover shifts the stains like magic (I've no links with the company, just experience, but the usual warning....please test on a patch of the patio that isn't too visible first....)
  3. Did you respray your 1/18 scale model to match? It looks good. Can't say too much as I'm from Rochdale. Oh, and my other car is a Reliant, 4 wheels, cheapest GT available today - get a GTC if you can find a good one.
  4. You can always whip the end cover off the solenoid (need to pick out the black silicone sealant to expose the two screw heads) and see the state of the contacts - clean them up and save yourself £26. You'll need a decent soldering iron to gently ease each of the two solder joints which stop the cap coming off easily. I've put some pictures on the "dreaded clicking".. thread.
  5. I had this problem, clicking only, once every few months. It was the solenoid. Here's two pictures of the contacts after 37 years and 180k miles. I can post the steps 1 to 5 leading up to these if anyone is interested in fixing the problem themselves. BUT I have to say, I can't be sure this has fixed it, as it only happens once every blue moon, but the evidence of the corroded contacts makes it a reasonable bet.
  6. Ages ago I had an Ford Escort-type car, used the heated rear window as the aerial, so I bought a spare module but it is still sitting in the box. Must get round to using it. I have a Halfords aerial that sticks inside the windscreen but it is fairly useless. Can't hear the radio anyway since I re-covered the Targa roof and left the front lip sticking up too much.
  7. You haven't fitted the rubber seals that sit over the button and locate on the aluminium dished washer. Because there's no seal the button doesn't always reach the door properly when you shut the door. This means the alarm can go off occasionally (and the interior light will come on and might flatten the battery if left for a few weeks). Get the rubber covers over the switch buttons and you shouldn't need to make the buttons adjustable. Hope this helps.
  8. Just had my drive resurfaced in resin bonded aggregate, including a drain cover which had a recess in the top and was filled with aggregate. Looks nice. The cover is galvanised steel (I think). Dural creates a micron-thick oxide layer which under dry conditions won't corrode, but in our acid-laced atmosphere I think it will suffer. IMO Stainless will outlive the guarantee on the resin stuff.
  9. If you are interested, it is possible to get the original registration back on the car, if the DVLA haven't issued it to anyone else since then. I did this on my other (non-porsche) car, it had been in the 1965 Monte Carlo Rallye and I wanted to get it back to its original historic look. The DVLA were actually quite helpful, re-registration went smoothly, only drawback is they won't allow the historic reg. to be transferred to another car (no problem to me.) BTW, looks nice in the screen shots, hope it is still as good.
  10. Don't know if this might help, might not be relevant as it was on a non-porsche; I managed to break the glass trying to re-fit, and then realised what I was doing wrong. It's a bit difficult to explain so bear with me. I had the body lip and the glass aligned up, in what you might call the final position, and the opposite edge of the glass wouldn't go in (seemed too big) so I "banged it" and it broke. With the seal fitted on the body lip ,I then got the replacement glass seated in the seal groove and then pushed the whole pane out of alignment so it could "drop" a bit in relation to the body lip. This meant the top edge would then go in the groove, and I pushed the pane back into alignment and everything was OK. Good luck, hope you get it sorted.
  11. Ages ago I created new pages on the computer, printed them out on heavy paper (yellow coloured), cut to size and I used a belt punch to make all the little holes; these were then "wound" into the Service Book, and have been updated with every service since then.
  12. I'd suspect the immobiliser being faulty and drawing current all the time, causing the flat battery. With everything turned off, measure the current being taken from the battery - should be very low, in the milliamp range (but if something is faulty it might be much higher, so start with your ammeter on a high current range). Is it possible to bridge the circuit interrupted by the immobiliser so the car runs? (On mine, an after-market type, it is both the ignition circuit and the starter circuit that are switched open by the immobiliser).
  13. After you've disconnected the battery and taken all the plugs out what about putting one wheel on an axle stand, chock the other and turn the wheel it by hand, in first gear? (rear wheels of course, and handbrake off). A lot easier than using a spanner I think. I don't know if it is likely the rings have seized, but putting some lubricant down the plug holes before doing anything might help avoid further damage. I'd second the statement about the pop-off valve, had to be trailered home after my airbox blew up. Also, check the airflow plate with your finger to see if the fuel pump runs when you lift it, to ensure it isn't stuck, Looking forward to an update on this, very interesting.
  14. HI all, Now it makes sense - instead of dropping the link rod/shift shaft (as per the "cheap and cheerful" kit I used), the spacer lifts the tower, the overall effect will be similar but the link rod will still be horizontal - much better solution IMO. I've heard of the WEVO kit - I thought it was a complete tower replacement, therefore v. expensive. Anyone have mechanical details, or better yet, experience with one fitted?
  15. Yes, the kit I used looked similar to the top picture, but didn't include epoxy resin, or what appears to be a gasket. The improvement when I removed it could have been for one (or a combination) of three reasons: Removing the short-shift kit; Renewing the cup (but I didn't renew the nylon bush on the shaft as I couldn't detect any wear on it); Getting the coupling between gearbox and shaft (under the little plate behind the seats) correctly aligned. I can't remember what it felt like 25 years ago, but now it feels like new! So, on the Weltmeister kit, where does the large flat spacer go? BTW The alignment of the gear lever seems to me to be "universal" (i.e. straight down the middle of the car).
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