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Gruppe IB
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About jehatwhitland

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  • Location
    North West

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1982 SC Targa LHD US Import
  • Daily Driver
    2015 3 series x-drive
  • Drive of your life
    Corrado G60 through Wales to Brecon, Renault Traffic van through Gorges du Verdon, Honda 400 Four up through the Honister Pass.

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  1. I know the thread is a little old but it feels like one people might refer to in future. 3mm foamex is perfect and enough for two door cards shouldn't cost more than about £20-£25 if you shop around. Foamex is waterproof, self-extinguishing and takes a staple well - I didn't have probs with them pulling out. I used my old (warped and frayed) door car as a template, then cut the foamex with a Stanley knife, except for the round holes, where I used a hole cutter - a sort of compass with a Stanley knife blade on the end. Covered the door cards with 3mm scrim (£6/metre x 140cm) using contact adhesive, then pulled the vinyl (bought from Segal Motor Trimming Ltd - £40 for flame retardant) taut and stapled it in place. I used black soft tie down straps (£10 for a pack of 12 in various colours. of Amazon) for the door close pull that were threaded through some stainless steel webbing eye straps that cost £1.20 each from a boat chandler - they just bolted into the same holes as the door handle. The RS style door pulls and the plastic trim they pass through cost £20 off ebay. I also used VAG door clips which cost buttons on ebay. Results aren't perfect - I still put membranes on for some reason and didn't trim them quite right - but they are perfectly acceptable and didn't take that much time or cost that much money to do.
  2. Mine started as a red '82 SC as well. The door cards are a sort of home-made amalgam made with 3mm foamex, scrim and vinyl - easy to cut, waterproof, self-extinguishing and waterproof.
  3. +1 flat or duck. I have the duck on atm but the painted, matching flat lid wrapped up in the garage. Personally, I think the bumpers are integral to the IB look, so have kept them (albeit changed from the original large US ones my car came with for the Euro ones.) They do weigh a ton though. I just used bungs for the holes.
  4. I had a Fabspeed cat bypass and Super Cup 'silencer' on my 911 SC when I bought it - and it was awful. I like a nice engine note as much as the next person but it was embarrassingly loud. Having a turbo might quieten things down somewhat but I would really try to find someone with a similar system so you can hear it in practice before you buy.
  5. I always think the cars themselves are technically relatively simple - a Beetle on steroids - but practically working on the engine and gearbox can be difficult due to the size of the engine and gearbox and the need to access things from below. The cost of parts can be eye watering - especially if you want to keep things as original as possible. It's a cliché but I suspect everyone here would agree, you should buy the best car you can possibly afford and definitely get a ppi. Whatever extra you spend on the initial purchase is likely to be far less than doing the work subsequently.
  6. The above is right = and the normal twin plug layout for our cars, I've attached a picture of one of my heads showing the new spark plug hole next to the hole for the head stud. All the cylinder heads are the same. Picture on the dyno isn't the best to see the layout, but you can see where the plug leads go through the rocker cover. The shot in the engine bay shows a single 12 plug distributor but I think 964s, etc used a sort of twin distributor set up. As described elsewhere in the thread, it was a way of reducing detonation with higher compression ratios. Particularly an issue in the pre-3.2/ECU era (and in the US) with variable quality fuel, hot conditions and less sophisticated ignition systems.
  7. Always were cool, just nobody realised it! 😉
  8. +1 - 101 things to for your 911 also tells you where to modify the bumper to allow more air through. I did that and had someone just fabricate a little under the bumper scoop (not very scientific or aerodynamic) combined with the fan. I assume the fan does most of the work. Seems to keep things cool effectively.
  9. Factoring in the parts prices and labour, just building the engine and gearbox alone these days would probably cost c. 3/4 of the selling price.
  10. I know you asked about UK suppliers but Sway-Away solid torsion bars are $375 plus shipping for a pair 23mm or 25mm torsion bars to a fit a 915 fitted 3.2 from Elephant Racing in the US. I bought my hollow torsion bars (can't remember the brand) from Elephant Racing in 2019 and had no problems with shipping, fitting or, subsequently, with reliability in use. Obviously, there is a chance of getting stung for duty and VAT,but at £266 at today's exchange rate you have some space to play with price wise.
  11. It does look v.tasty in the Luck strike paint. Mind you, I probably couldn't get on it - the seat height is a full 7.5cm taller than my Pantah! Problem of being an aged short arrrr5e!! This 900 looks better value though - same dimensions I think - https://www.motorcyclenews.com/bikes-for-sale/cagiva/elefant-900/7736964/
  12. Just saw this on ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224471443187?hash=item34438a66f3:g:1H0AAOSwIJVgqj8x
  13. My era, so I'm probably a bit biased - but I agree with you! 🙂 In old money, just under 400 pounds dry. So not a big bike. A 650 version of the Pantah engine was the one in the Cagiva Elefant referenced in your article.
  14. '81 Ducati Pantah 600SL. Recently imported from Germany and currently on a Nova while I get everything working again ready for its MOT and UK registration. Then off to paint to take it back to its original colour scheme although I don't plan to do restoration as such.
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