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About jehatwhitland

  • Rank
    Hooked on IB

Profile Information

  • Location
    North West

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1982 SC Targa LHD US Import
  • Daily Driver
    2015 3 series x-drive
  • Drive of your life
    Corrado G60 through Wales to Brecon, Renault Traffic van through Gorges du Verdon, Honda 400 Four up through the Honister Pass.

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  1. I remember those too!!! 🙂
  2. I had a black 2.3-16 for 9 years - totally unmolested, even had the original Becker radio. Wonderful car, not that fast by today's standards but a lovely power delivery, geat balance and a great noise. Unfortunately, also quite complicated - self-levelling suspension, early ABS, early black box electronics. Lots to go wrong and lots of special parts at special prices. Overall, a brilliant car with relatively small production numbers and some proper motorsport heritage. Unfortunately, an awful lot were owned by complete idiots in the late 90s early 2000s, so very easy to buy a shed.
  3. I used to have a 2.3-16 - kept it for 9 years. Great car, nice handling - lovely sound. But, likewise, I intend to keep my 911 until I drop. Hopefully, not too soon!!
  4. OMG, that's a real labour of love. Good luck with the rest of the build. .
  5. The Lemforder kit is available from Vertex for $149 ( https://www.vertexauto.com/porsche-930-911-turbo-tie-rod-kit-oem-lemfoerder-p-10232.aspx ). However, they are German, so it should be possible to by them in the EU with less shipping and no duty. Might be worth giving ZF a call to find out - +44 333 240 1123
  6. Paul Gardner in Lancashire UK are a good choice for a proper Escort engine. I was originally going to use them to build my 911 engine but ended up going with BS Motorsport because they were a recognised 911 shop and also near the company I used to do the body. Seeing this took me back to doing the Higgins's forest rally school some 25 years when they were still using MK1 Escorts - what a fantastic day and what an incredible blast to drive. We even managed to break the suspension on one and actually rebuilt it there and then as if we were between stages. Great cars.
  7. Sorry, can't help I'm afraid. There didn't seem any rush, so I haven't finished stripping down and cleaning the parts yet. Still sitting partially dismantled in the garage!
  8. There is a good thread on port sizes here - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/519112-early-911-cylinder-head-cross-reference.html I suspect all, or mainly, US contributors but including some experienced engine builders. I've attached the OP's last table from the thread. Also attached a pic of one of my 1982 US spec SC small port heads, part# ending ... 326.3R (you can see the 82 date on the casting). The heads I replaced them with were large port heads with part# ending ... 329.2R that have a 1979 date on the casting. If anyone has a 1982 UK or ROW SC head off the car, we should be able to compare part numbers. PS Looks like everything 76 onwards is based on the same casting, with the same valve sizes. It's just the port sizes that appear to vary.
  9. I know it doesn't say so in the Anderson book, but that's what I thought as well. It also feels logical given the power difference.
  10. As far as I know, the small port heads were only on US-spec SCs from the 1980 MY and, no, they aren't preferred for performance builds as the inlet port is 5 mm smaller. I think they were a way of maintaining the mid-range pick-up (less air to accelerate) whilst capping the top-end performance of the US spec models even as the compression ratios was raised to improve emissions. Don't ask me why - was probably to meet some Californian anti-smog requirement! However, if you want some good condition small port heads I'll happily swap them for your large port ones. 😉 I can't give them away!! Bruce Anderson book is a very good source for working out what you want to do and the SC is a very strong base to start from.
  11. Out of curiousity, I took a look on Companies House ( https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/06023490/filing-history ) and the previous three years accounts all showed the company as essentially insolvent - ie, net debts greater than net assets - and a declining cash position. You can also see what other companies the directors are directors of ( https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/officers/kOXt77MPIZhKS1RJOPRTOK4GhnI/appointments ) and then check what the history is with their other companies - both dissolved or liquidated in this case. Easy to be clever after the fact but worth keeping in mind that the UK has one of the best and most open company registers in the world and there are ways to at least do some checking before entering a deal.
  12. Good advice, especially with any electrical parts. I always think eBay is the best way to sell stuff in general, the price is what someone is prepared to pay, but you've got to be lucky with timing when it comes to classic car parts as the market is very specific.
  13. Hi there, just got back home. The plan is to split the system and sell all the individual parts. Will probably finish stripping it down this weekend, but no idea about a fair price for any of it. It looks as though you've already found the parts you need anyway, but let me know if you need anything else. Ideas on prices still welcome! Thanks a lot, once I've got it all stripped down I'll try to do some part number searches and see what comes up.
  14. Hi All Just starting to strip down the redundant CIS off my '82 US-spec SC. Will obviously do an internet search but if anybody has any ideas on prices for metering heads, throttle, etc, all gratefully received. Very grubby but was working fine when removed to fit PMO carbs. No splits or cracks in the airbox, which has the pop-off valve fitted. Best, John
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