Gezzer

Looks like a bargain!!

Oh......I love these too!! The last one had a mk3 2lt 8v running on the original digifant injection with a 4+E gearbox, just wonderful!! Corrado front brakes gives you 290mm front disks if my memory serves me correctly, cheap as chips conversion. It was a flying machine!!

Cam timing again........searching the net......soooooo much rubbish about So i did a rough set ( one dot ) and got within one hole of the right place!! ( i think ) I'm getting roughly 0.2mm-0.28mm difference of lift between the two positions. I used a DTI in the spark plug hole directly on the piston and i created a degree wheel to put on the crank pull form here https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel I marked the first and second attempts with a paint marker on the sprocket so as not to get lost and confused! Then measured and got this..... So now i'm set at 1.52 to 1.58......think i'm going to send an email to DRC who ground the cam and ask what they normally recommend setting to! This week i got a spot in a body shop for the chassis......entry in 6 months then 6 months to a year to finish.......i have time !!

So, not to happy with worn rear sprockets and sloppy locking pins its new parts time! again..... Beautiful! Reassemble and check end float and alignment again. Right bank was bang on but i had to take a shim out of the left bank and try again! Now back to cam timing....

Ok now this is starting to hurt my brain 🧠 #1 Intake Starts to open 27° before TDC Closed at 253 after TDC Max displacement 11.43mm #4 Intake Starts to open 36° before TDC Closed at 258° after TDC Max displacement 11.53mm This is with both banks set around 1.4mm @ TDC. Why is there such a difference?? Is this normal and not particularly critical?? Beginning to think there's a quality issue with these cams.....but they're a fresh regrind and gave never been run. The supplier has a good reputation so I'm scratching my head. Also I'm surprised the vernier adjustments are not very sensitive, one hole difference on the cam sprocket is 0.1mm on the left bank and closer to 0.2mm on the right bank. Thinking maybe I have to replace the inner sprocket and pin as well........grrrrrr

Thanks Peter Out of interest, have you any idea which way will the power characteristics change between 0.9 and 1.7

Right now...........Camshaft timing 🤯 So i have dougherty 964 cams, has anyone here had much experience setting them? What will be the difference between the settings? I see three options really 0.9-1.1---or---1.26---or---1.4-1.7 I will be running the 3.1 CIS fuel system with SSI's Any experience here will be happily received Porsche Manual Pre 1980 8.5 : 1 compression Porsche Manual Post 1980 9.3 : 1 compression Porsche 3.1 document, origin unknown 9.8 : 1 compression The same in German Dougherty Website info

So when i went to change the idler sprockets i found the shafts worn as well as the sprockets. And the arms were dirty.........omg So, super easy, remove circlip, and gently tap out the shaft to remove sprocket. Then off they go for cleaning. Sweet Then , new shafts, circlips and sprockets, important to maintain the orientation of the shaft so the oil catch points up when installed. Install..

84 quid including postage from a very efficient gentleman in Cornwall! Sometimes an ebay gamble pays off....certainly better than the 600-700 for a new one. It arrived in a couple of days and freshly cleaned too! Happy with that! Spot the difference..... one vandalised one nice and pretty Then onwards...... Going around in circles here!! Mask up, clean with MEK and seal the back of the chain box with our old friend JB. Remove seriously obstinate dowel pin Grrr, drop a few f bombs, then succeed and smash it back together. next step, pick up the new idler axles from Porsche and fit the new idler sprockets and on to cam timing!

So what exactly has been alleged? i chose my words.......

Quick visit to Porsche main dealer today in Toulouse, presently surprised by super cool spares department! Genuine cam chain idler arm axle for less than the net!! 84 euro all in for two axles, i guess there's a lesson to be learnt there!! ( not dissing our friendly parts providers on here ! )

So i had some bits arrived.... New camshaft retainer plate and thrust washers, now the end float is lovely! 20240203_114723.mp4 Happy with that..... but.........it never lasts long.... Went to change the idler sprockets but the axles are worn.......on order thankfully not too expensive.... Check out this chain box....I never noticed before...the lower chain tensioner stud has previously been replaced with what looks like a 10mm threaded bar/stud and the old tensioner had been drilled out to accommodate .......butchers, who on earth does such a thing............what we call in the aviation industry " Gash " .........trying not to cry 🤣 New pressure-fed tensioner.........this is deffintly not going to fit...and i'm not drilling out a 300 euro tensioner to make it fit.....back to the drawing board So I've found a replacement on eBay for around 90 bucks, ill keep my fingers crossed as a new one is mega-bucks..got to be worth a punt! You really need a strong constitution to rebuild these things......

Thanks for the recommendations guys, whilst I've still got free transport to the UK I'll be using Headshop in Warrington and Fiennes in the Cotswolds as they are excellent and super professional. They answer the phone, they answer email, they give you a quote when you ask for it and they do what they say they'll do when they say they'll do it.

Or maybe i should leave it be....

So i've got the heads all torqued down and the cams in. I bought these 964 grind Dougherty cams of another IB gentleman unused some years back. Cleaned up the retainer with some fine wet-n-dry and bolted in with new seal and spring washer. Then on with sprockets etc and set up to check the end float.......0.25mm....im thinking that this is bit excessive. I need to replace the sprockets anyway but how to reduce the end float? I guess by replacing the retainers and the thrust spacer? 20231209_170807.mp4