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GimmeShelter
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Wow! Gorgeous video.
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Chris T is right about weights, BTW: Fibreglass bonnet: 8.8kg Steel (long) bonnet: 16.4kg My hybrid fibreglass-with-steel-frame: 11.9kg
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Hi, and same answer - EB Motorsport. Working together with Riviera (the paint & bodyshop), we looked at several and decided EB's products were the best fit and finish. But we still decided to use steel wings (Dansk) because of the better fit, etc, but even those had to be modified, 'cos the nearside front wings are manufactured with a slight twist in them. Incidentally, it's not that difficult to move the bonnet latch panel forward, and the result is much more satisfying. Beware that your standards tend to increase as the project goes along!
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I've got fibreglass bonnet, ducktail and bumpers on mine. The bonnet is the only panel that has been problematic, as it was gradually arching upwards in the middle until I got fed up with it and fitted a steel frame to the underside (as covered in my build thread, 'Modern Love' in the SC section).
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IB Bikers: show your toys
GimmeShelter replied to johndglynn's topic in IB Splitters: Your Other Classic Cars
Holy cow, I like that! -
In my experience: ClassicLine - annual mileage limits, agreed value (e.g. using John Glynn's Porsche Valuations), always answer the phone promptly. But their cover doesn't include driving others' cars. LV= - offer increasing discounts the more business you place with them, e.g. house & contents, travel. Their cover does include driving others' cars and can include business use. Admiral - similar to LV=. Several friends use Admiral and a couple of them have had sizeable claims, which were dealt with efficiently.
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I wouldn't be able to leave it alone. Bilstein Sportstrasse (fast road) dampers, Steve Wong chip, wheels, paint, maybe subtle graphics ... Personally, I rather like this Riviera car with its subtle 'double bubble' roof, etc:
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You're probably right, Ivan. Some of my mates think I'm crazy. I wonder myself, sometimes.
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The sump plug magnet and the filter both tell a similar story, one for the ferrous metals and the other for the non-ferrous alloys. If you cut the filter open after removal, at first it's rather surprising what you find, but then you realise it makes sense: I've learnt that the fine metal swarf in the filter mostly happens in the first two miles (after all, "running in" is all about removing metal until parts work smoothly together) so that the first filter change reveals fine particles of silvery metal and, in the case of a rebuilt engine, the assembly paste that the engine builder has used.
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Please don't shoot me down as an internet warrior, but below is a summary of the running-in procedure that I used after my rebuild. I've used this approach for some years now, principally on motorcycles, after reading about MotoMan on http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm. It's been very successful with the bikes, so I thought I'd experiment with the SC and find out over time if it was worth it: Running-in oil (Miller's CRO 10/40) for the first 250 miles, using this procedure: - first oil & filter change after 2 miles - second oil & filter change at 20 miles
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NO WORDS JUST YOUR IMPACT BUMPER PICS! Use the like button 👍🏻
GimmeShelter replied to Ducktail's topic in Impact Driver Chat
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Excellent! Thank you!
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I can see yet more cars parked in French gardens and fields, forever not changing hands, slowly returning to nature ..!
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Thank you. I'd been following the private member's Bill that was going through the House: i.e. drivers "could be given three penalty points if a new private members bill becomes law. The bill, which has been presented to the House of Commons by Conservative MP Andrew Griffith, would see drivers and motorcyclists whose number plates are obscured or missing hit with three points, in addition to the £100 fine they already face." [Quote from Auto Express] ... but wasn't aware of the subtlety around the 40-year age thing, i.e. 1980 currently, only the 1973 date.
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Hi, Peter I used a mixture: selective 'Dynamat' underneath the original rear firewall rubber; then the original rubber insulation over the rear wheel arches; but then a combination of 'Dynamat', 6mm and 8mm closed-cell foam instead of the rubber rear seat base, all topped off with square-knot weave carpet - no rear seats. I also put 6mm closed-cell foam on the floorpan. It's so light, I was happy to afford the extra grams, and it reduces road/tyre roar very nicely. The end result is very nearly as quiet as the original and saves quite a few kilos.
