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ras62

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About ras62

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  1. Im using a local guy in Cheshire who did a fine job on my old Merc SL. He's done work for a few specialists so Im in good hands. Ive stripped the car right down including the wings off. Both wings were it meets the scuttle and the scuttle itself need repairing, passenger side rear wing that sits under the sharkfin also needs a repair. Windows front and back need a little work but not what I expected tbh. Keeping track of fixing and parts ain't easy! All the metal supports etc I've had blasted and coated already, just the window frames to do, replace the felts and a few other parts to order. Hopefully she will be back on the road before Easter. I've belatedly realised Ive timed the cams wrong (follwed the spec sheet but didn't realise I should have subtracted the 0.1 valve gap...doh!) so should have a few more ponies to play with when we next meet:)
  2. Can't make this one Haith the old girl is in lots of bits getting ready for paint!
  3. It will be a lovely road engine with the bonus of serious bite at the top end which is was my aim was when I had my 3.6 rebuilt. Flywheel choice will also change the character, I prefer RS but many people prefer dual mass. Its not often I run past 5k tbh but when it does get stretched its a quick old thing
  4. Its not really headline numbers you would notice imo but put circa 300 lb/ft of torque in a light car and it would throw you up the road at a scarey pace. Fast enough that I doubt you would drive it much over 5k rpm 98% of the time. How quickly the motor revs is also a big part of the experience, a standard flywheel vs an RS flywheel doesn't produce more power but accelerate with the latter and it feels like the engine has another 30-40 bhp in the lower gears as the motor revs so much quicker.
  5. Increase from 3.6 to 3.8 doesn't give much of a hike in power but does lift midrange torque. The DC 20 cam is quite mild so I would be surprised if this engine ran much above 320 tbh. ITB motors do their best at high revs but don't interest me in a road car as the standard gearing means visits over 7k are rare. Plus the extra cost of making the motor safe to rev higher.
  6. Break in oil is also a factor. Using fully synth and driving gently is possibly the worse scenario on a fresh engine which some people find quite a shock.
  7. I have often wondered how some of the rebuild costs mentioned on various forums are justified. Its often stated as fact a full rebuild will cost easy 15-20k when the costs in my experience are normally less than 50% of that range. Certainly at my Indy. Advise on running in was drive it hard from the get go!
  8. I dont drive much in the dark but I have never noticed any complaint from other drivers. The lights are aligned correctly so there really shouldn't be an issue. Driving lights on modern cars can be an issue and also the height of some car headlights can be a pain especially when they are behind you. I would recommend the upgrade.
  9. I've had LEDs in place of the H4 on the 964 a while without any issues. Far more powerfull and zero problem over several MOT's.
  10. Time sert if necessary after drilling the old stud out. Any good machine shop should turn that around pretty fast
  11. Take a look at the Airtop 2000 STC. It weighs 2.5kg and is 31x12x12cm will heat a camper so easy capable of keeping you toastie in the 911:)
  12. Webasto do a range of small petrol heaters that Ive seen used in a couple of early rally cars. They're fitted close to the rear of the petrol tank to pick up the feed. They seem to work well. Same things are often found in recreational vehicles.
  13. I guess this would be a one speed fan😕
  14. So the car went to SCS before Jaz put the kit on and then again afterwards? Your posts didnt mention any results before Jaz installation. The world is definately flat. I can see it out of my window!
  15. So no improvement on Wayne's figures despite all the mods? The before figure can't be as it left Wayne as with those mods it wouldn't work with Motronic.
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