Jump to content
Impact Bumpers

NeilH

Members
  • Content Count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About NeilH

  • Rank
    IB Apprentice

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi all Went through all sorts checks and forums - but recently ordered up second hand cold start injector - not happy about the thin stream pattern Seems to have 95% sorted the issue - just a sticky fast idle issue that's now resulted since and I'm just looking at sorting Thanks all Neil
  2. update a cure. Thanks all. Have since received and fitted a replacement cold start injector - wasn't happy about the spray pattern. Seems to have sorted the issue on two tests i've done since. Just a slightly "sticky" fast idle to sort but basically 95% sorted now
  3. Hi all Almost totally cracked previous cold start issue (10+ cranks needed!) on '81 Euro SC 3.0ltr. New cold start valve\injector seems to have cured (with the last 2-tests at least) as the old one only gave a thin stream spray pattern! However, now the cold fast idle speed is playing up - whereas before doing all this work it was perfect; - Initially fires from cold but holds at 900rpm - If I blip throttle couple of times, jumps to appx 1,600rpm - After 90-120 seconds still 1,600rpm - Couple of blips of throttle again, drops to something like 1,100-1,200 then lowers to 900rpm - Have checked Aux Air Regulator - continuity, voltage and operation on bench all good - though is the attached image correct for it's "cold" open throttle? - With voltage applied, slowly closes over 2-minutes or so. If I then blow trough it I hear a tiny "pop" as it closes to all airflow - I suspect the disk somehow moves with the air flow to finally seal closed? - I'm unable to apply air flow through it during the warm up process on a bench and wonder if it might perform differently - wondering if "blipping" the throttle is having an effect? There is also the Aux Air Valve (hidden on rear of engine) but I don't know how that operates or can be tested. I've not removed the engine for any of this Does the attach "cold" aperture look wide-enough? The disc inside seems to move freely if i put a screwdriver through the aperture and move it wider open - against what appears to be a spring action - that returns it back to the same cold aperture size. The work done = replaced CSV, cleaned WUR filter (all WUR pressures OK) and fit new fuel filter. Thanks for nay help to get this final little issue sorted so all 100% Best regards Neil
  4. Happy New Year all :-) Had time over xmas to finally sort my Cold Start issue! :-) Ordered and received second-hand CSV off a German Ebay breaker - fitted it and BANG! Starts almost immediately - 2nd crank :-) Vastly improved and almost all 100% sorted! I could leave things as they are but deciding to push-on to get it 100%; - First crank: car fires immediately - but on releasing key it stops dead - Second crank: fires and runs immediately, but idle speed hunts about 900 rpm - I rev it a few times to hold a fast idle, which then suddenly cuts in and runs at 1,800rpm on it's own. - After 3-4 minutes idle barely drops from 1,800rpm - it used to drop on it's own before! A couple of prods and revs on the throttle by me and it finally drops to 900rpm - The auxiliary air REGULATOR seems to be ok on the bench - though I'm not surer if the the attached "cold" status picture has the by-pass valve open far enough? - It fully closes after 2-3 mins with 12V applied and when I blow through it can hear an initial "pop" whereby it then fully closes to air - It's getting 12V while in the engine ok - so odd - unless it's sticking while vacum is applied through it while heating up? I can also move the blade freely by levering it with a screwdriver through the open aperture - not bindng Or could it be the other idle valve that's at issue - the Auxilliary Air Valve? I'm not sure how this works, is controlled or how to test it..... Best regards, Neil
  5. Happy new year all :-) Had some time to look at this again over xmas and now realize I'd been "a bit" daft! Almost everything seems correct on my yellow cranking circuit now (almost) and since then I've been confident in re-connecting the battery and fitting and trying the new Cold Start Valve\injector to FINALLY sort my cold starting issue! :-) - I'd been trying to confirm I had no high-resistance in any connectors (ignition barrel as well) along the yellow crank wire between battery + and fuel pump relay contact 87! - The "odd" resistances (possible loads?) I'd measured on mine came about as stupidly I'd left the yellow wire connected to the starter solenoid! - By leaving the solenoid "in circuit" it was providing a path (backwards?) in to all sorts of other circuitsvia their earths! Hence the bizzare measurements! I know - now realise how stupid! - After "pulling" the solenoid - all looked good and clean, expect an odd 500Mega Ohms. - Have proved this is coming from the heater circuit and appearing between heater relay contact no. 85 and the T1a connector in the rear regulator box. The only thing in this run of the yellow cranking circuit is the Auto Heat switch! I'm not sure if it's an actual physical switch contact in the auto heat or a "transistor" - as I remember from a year ago (when I found the yellow connector unplugged) it's a small PCB. So maybe 500MOhm maybe OK - as long as not enough current is drawn to operate the heater relay in the OFF position. - I've pulled the fuse no.22 to remove this for the moment anyway - but it proves the heater circuit does "piggy back" off the cranking circuit and uses the solenoid earth! - Also removed my immobilizer from the same circuit as a test. - Fitted second-hand Cold Start Injector - and BANG! All now working fine! My old injector had a thin stream jet pattern and not an atomized mist. Many dismissed this as being the "cold start" issue. Will reconnect immobiliser and auto heat at some point - hopefully without the issue returning! Thanks all, Neil
  6. Just occurred to me - had the car 2 years only. Found heater wasn't working and yellow wire was disconnected off the switch (very same one mentioned) in the auto heat controller. Connected to simply get it working. Cold start worsening and bad last few months. I've also just noticed through all this, the original fuel pump relay has been prised open and reglued - to clean contacts? Wondering if pulling yellow wire was intentional or all just a coincidence. ....
  7. Peter Thanks for reply I think you're right that the solenoid is used to earth the heater circuit - I can't see any other way it can work. My very odd readings at fuel pump relay pin 87 (with relay removed) seem to disappear when unplugging P14 off the regulator - well, at least the suggestion of a capacitor does with ignition key in 0 position - will need to double check pos1 2 and 3 of the key. But I realise P14 suddenly chops loads of circuits - so can assume issue towards engine starter - but pulling fuse 22 is a good call to see if that proves if it's the CDI that I'm seeing. Will update Thanks Neil
  8. SilverWT. Thanks for reply. Unless I'm reading cct diagram wrong - I can't see this "odd" bit of the heater cct operating as a cut-off - am sure its a "supply" instead. Heater relay has to be energised for hot air blower to run. The single contact of the relay looks like the only way to control the motor in turn. The 12v to the heater relay (via fuse 22) seems to tee off the CDI 12v supply which will have to be on throughout cranking - therefore the heater relay will get 12v supply while cranking? The heater ventilation switch that ultimately controls the heater relay - I'm sure - is cam operated off the red lever in my little Auto Heat control box by the handbrake and totally controls that lever. Bizzarely looks like the cct is for heater relay supply - can only see it working via solenoid earth. If heater relay drops out on cranking can only assume it's due to insufficient current to keep it energised at the time. Weird! I wonder if their are mistakes in the Haynes manual diagrams I'm using - but think they're sourced from porsche anyway. I have just found errors with some numbering of the Continuation labels taking you from one page to the next as well as the location of a couple of connectors. Done a good bit of amateur car electrics in the past, but seen nothing as weird as porsche wiring! Thanks Neil
  9. Hi all. I posted separately about cold start issue with CIS on a 1981 Euro SC - providing Cold Control pressures etc that all look spot on. Still needs 5+ cranks to fire from cold when left idle after 2-days or more! All other running is spot on. I have a second-hand cold start injector on it's way to me to test - and the thermo-time switch tests ok and 12V at the CSV. However, via the pressure gauge, I can now see cold control pressure starts from 0psi and only climbs about 2-to-5 psi each crank - until finally @ 22psi "bang" it fires"! Therefore pulled fuel pump relay and measured voltage at socket 87 on cranking - only 9.56volt. Is this too low? Battery is 12.5volt engine off. I also have no starter motor cranking issues. This set me off just checking through the yellow wire circuit in case of any high resistance back towards the ignition barrel. Initially disconnected the battery earth and did via a resistance check between battery + terminal and fuel pump relay socket 87. I got what I thought were the below odd results!? TESTING RESISTANCE BETWEEN PIN 87 AND BATTERY + TERMINAL (LOOKING FOR POSSIBLE POTENTIAL DROPS INITIALLY VIA RESISTANCE); - Ignition key in OFF position = 1.6Kohms climbing to 3.6K ohms as I connect the meter - think this normally indicates a capacitor charging?! Could I be accidentally seeing\charging the CDi? But would it need the autoheat switch to be closed in the attached circuit diagram for this to happen? - Ignition key in Pos 1 = 63.6 ohms (don't understand this load being on the circuit) - Ignition key in pos 2 = 8.5 ohms (again don't understand this load being on the circuit) - Ignition key pos CRANK = 0.2 ohms (only this reading makes sense to me!? Can see I will need to see what voltage drop this gives me when I feel confident to connect the battery again!) I discovered an immobilizer circuit inserted between the two sides of the connector T1e (in the diagram). This had mislead me into thinking I was initially getting 8.5ohms on cranking. On removing, now get 0.2 and makes sense. But I still don't get all the other readings and would have expected the below; - Pos off = Open circuit - Pos 1 = Open circuit - Pos 2 = Open circuit - Crank = 0ohms I've confirmed I do get these "sensible" readings if I break apart T1e behind the ignition barrel. Not sure if anyone else can check and confirm meter readings they get on their 1980' 3.0ltr SC or similar? Or if someone can explain if this is correct that I'm seeing? I'm really not understanding this part of the circuit if these are correct. Also, is the hot air blower circuit (seemingly "tacked" onto the back of this yellow crank circuit) using the earth through the starter solenoid? Really can't see how it gets one otherwise. I also noted if I pull the big 14-way engine bay\regulator panel plug, the 1.6Kohms climbing to 3.6K with the ignition off disappears! I ran out of time to investigate any further, but it should only be a single straight yellow wire to the starter solenoid? I'm a bit confused? Thanks for any help Best regards, Neil
  10. Hi Ivan. My supply fuel line across the rear of the engine is a steel fuel line. At the cold start injector there's a bango off this line - all prior to the fuel distributor and system pressure valve. I've seen loads of images of this example - it's factory standard. This is why I can't simply pull the CSV and test in a jar - steel line and not flexi. Once I get the other 2nd-hand one - i'll leave mine in place and take the flexi line connector off the Warm Up Regulator and adapt to the CSV valve - this can deliver 77psi system pressure if blocked off. Can then extend the CSV wiring forward and test that way.
  11. Just to add, I had no starter motor, or other electrical, issues before this. A bit wary of re-connecting battery and testing until I understand what's going on in the circuit....
  12. Hi. Sorry, didn't spot additional replies - thanks all. Now ordered second-hand Cold Start Valve via Ebay. Hopefully decent breaker in Germany - arrive after xmas. Bosch 0 280 170 409 - also used by Citroen, Peugeot, Renault, Merc and Rolls - all replied, "not stocked, out of production years ago by Bosch!" Tried to get mine tested\cleaned to eliminate poor thin stream spray pattern (via my crude bench test) as the cause! Bosch specialists\independents (KMI included) all said given up test gear\ultrasonic baths in order to do it. 3-4 said "CSVs hardly ever a problem as they don't get used in the UK climate! "Put it back, look at cold and system pressures instead"! (since found these spot on) Thought this odd. My Thermo Switch's stamped "35degC / 8s" I assume means run for 8-seconds max below 35 deg/C? Plus Porsche\Bosch Injection manual has 35degC as the switch over point for cold\warm continuity measurements? Therefore used quite a bit in UK Therefore went off just to confirm electrics - in case of low voltage\current to fuel pump under cranking. Now see a separate crank circuit for fuel pump and may make sense if mine's at fault - as normal running \ acceleration etc is perfect. Measured only 9.56 volt to pump on cranking - to low?! Did below test\results and getting myself now confused - bizarrely on 81 Euro SC with AutoHeat (electric rotary controller down by the handbrake) seems to have it's switch and relay "tacked" on the back of the same circuit - is it looking for an earth to operate - via starter solenoid?! Not sure if anyone else can check and confirm meter readings (below) on their 1980' 3.0ltr SC - compared to mine below? PUMP\RELAY\CRANKING PIN 87 MEASUREMENTS Pulled fuel pump relay. At socket 87 only getting 9.56volt on cranking circuit for the pump - too low? Therefore disconnected battery and did further checks via RESISTANCE (safer for when "pulling" things - including "pulling" immobilizer I found on this part of the circuit that caused confusion initially) TESTING RESISTANCE BETWEEN PIN 87 AND BATTERY + TERMINAL (LOOKING FOR POSSIBLE POTENTIAL DROPS INITIALLY VIA RESISTANCE); - Ignition key in OFF position = 1.6Kohms climbing to 3.6K ohms - think this normally indicates a capacitor charging?! Could I be accidentally seeing\charging the CDi (but would need autoheat switch to be closed?) - Ignition key in Pos 1 = 63.6 ohms (don't understand this load being on the circuit) - Ignition key in pos 2 = 8.5 ohms (don't understand this load being on the circuit) - Ignition key pos CRANK = 0.2 ohms (only this reading makes sense to me!?) I'd of expected the below results?; - Pos off = Open circuit - Pos 1 = Open circuit - Pos 2 = Open circuit - Crank = 0ohms If I pull the big 14-way engine bay\regulator panel plug, the 1.6Kohms climbing to 3.6K disappears! Ran out of time to investigate any further, but should only be yellow wire straight to starter solenoid Am I confused or what? Thanks for any help Best regards, Neil
  13. Cheers Chris, ditto. That does it, I'm going back to the CSV. I get 12 volt across the CSV electrical connector on cranking plus continuity across the CSV winding. It operates on the bench as well. So in theory all plugged together it should be working (I know, jam jar is the ultimate test but I've got to get around the steel fuel line some how). Therefore it's the poor spray pattern that leaves me with doubt Cheers Neil
  14. Thanks lesworth That helps quite a bit 🙂 People's theory on the CSV is so varied. Though the majority seem to believe it has little effect. I wonder if that depends on each state of engine tune? There was only one other that suggested it actually runs the engine initially as it's the first device after the fuel filter and gets enough flow - plus being electrically operated - gets the engine running before the main injectors and air flow sensor have to raised enough. On my older 911sc the CSV is right around the back of the engine and fed by a steel fuel line and bango - impossible to put in a jam jar. Will have to find way of adapting it to flexible hose - or feed it straight off fuel filter? Everything about it tests OK individually - just a rubbish thin jet that I wonder if it just hits far side of air box and sits as a puddle rather than drawn into the cylinders. Can't find anyone to ultrasonic clean or test it. Might have to try some 2nd hand ones. Thanks Neil
  15. Only just stumbled across this thread.... so sorry to hear Frazer! 😞 Hopefully all has progressed since? I only recently started to hear about ethanol issues with fuel lines. Got me thinking and at the moment I'm pulling a small number of bits apart to sort a cold start issue - WUR pressures tests etc! I'm new to air-cooled 911s but noticed most of my fuel lines are steel - distributor, cold start valve etc. The only flexi hoses (two I think) are the original looking ones between chassis and engine - so fuel filter delivering to the engine and the corresponding return. Are these usually affected? Mine look as tough as old boots on inspection and pretty strong walls when trying to pinch them. Best regards, Neil
×
×
  • Create New...