SilverWT

Correct, not on an SC its only a 3.2 thing. Mark

Yes, worthwhile giving a much better pedal fell on road and track. With the std MC I just found the extra pedal travel too long. Much easier to accurately get just the braking effect you are after with the bigger MC. Mark

+1 on all the above advice. All the heat cycling the exhaust studs get over time can make them very hard (as well as brittle) and so a bit of a task for any drill bit. If you really have issues, or break a drill bit in the stud, a Carbide end mill can get you out of trouble details here ... Mark

Might be relevant on a heavy FWD car, but not on the light front of an IB. I run 225/45 16 fronts on track, 205/50 16 fronts on the road and 245/45 16 rears on both track and road.

Yes. AFAIK, 503 is a communication between servers error, so likely it is more dependant on how your IPs server routes through other intermediate servers to the server that IB is hosted on

We'll have to get you on a track day now Mark

If you put a larger MC in the std system the pedal travel will decrease (larger piston moving more fluid per unit of travel) and the foot pressure needed will increase as you have less leverage due to the shorter travel. A shorter travel and stiffer pedal will make it harder to modulate braking in the most effective/safest way. Putting larger pistons in the calipers (e.g. fitting Boxster front brakes) increases the pedal travel and reduces the foot pressure needed, this also makes effective brake modulation more difficult. Adding the larger Turbo MC restores the balance to get nearer to the optimum hydraulic force ration for best brake modulation. Mark

The two rubber bump stops are there to get the front side edges of the bonnet level with the front edges of the wings. If you do get the front edge of the bonnet to sit tight on the bumper it will not line up with the wings. It is designed to have space for the smile and so unless you alter the bonnet leading edge, or upper surface of the bumper it will never fit perfectly. Your real choice is to live with it, or fit a 964 smile However, you may be able to move the locking mechanism down a touch if you loosen the two bolts holding it to the front scuttle, which will bring the front edge down a bit. The bonnet hinges are adjusted using shims, but that is only to get the hinge end aligned properly and wont lower the front edge. I did not add, or need, any additional earth wires to my front indicators. Mark Mark

+1 Works well when using Boxster front calipers, not with std setup. Mark

Not with those offsets and 10" rears will foul either the inner or outer wing with any offset (unless you ran some crazy stretched thin tyres!). Better described as "shims" than spacers really, e.g. 6mm on the rear with 9" Fuchs. Mark

+1. Also, the 22mm is not exclusive to the Turbo, it was also put on the 3.2 in '86. I went from a std 20mm bar on on my '84 3.2 to a 22mm one and what ever the difference in stiffness it was noticeable, but I would not have said by half as much again. Mark

Yes, but it would cost that much to get it to the US, heavy and contaminated goods! As above, no cat needed. Mark

Would an old retired guy like me do such a thing, anyway, in the wrong IB for that! +1, and thanks all for your company, with a special thanks to Ravi for suggesting and leading us, turned out a great day. I think it is the way forward, meet up points for everyone with groups of 4 - 5 cars taking varying scenic routes between the meeting points. The only part that was not as good as other years was the drive along Eastbourne sea front. The visual/aural impact of a line of 10+ nose to tail IBs is hard to beat. Mark

Most cost effective temp option is to take the cat off and knock a suitable hole through the centre with a steel bar. Mark