Jump to content
Impact Bumpers


Gruppe IB
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About SilverWT

  • Rank
    IB Glitterati

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1984 3.2 - Lightened & Tweaked + 1983 SC - Stock-ish

Recent Profile Visitors

1,287 profile views
  1. That's OK for an SC, the problem is people get used to modern cars with smart electronics that give low idle speeds. +1 Mark
  2. +1 At that height the both the ride and handling will be compromised and you are likely to get rubbing with 9s depending on how stiff your bump stops are and the camber. This will not be at the edge of the rear wing, but a bit further up in the arch. The heat generated will blister the paint, don't ask how I know...
  3. High speed bottoming out on track only and then only in the dip at the bottom of the downhill section after Paddock hill bend at Brands. Not had a problem at other tracks, or any time on road. That's with 245/45s and 6mm shims. Mark
  4. Mike Bainbridge still gets my vote, http://www.mbporsche-engineering.co.uk/ Still more than happy with the work he did on my 915. Mark
  5. According to Bentley it is 188C, or 370F. Agree it seems hot, but that's what it says. If its a missprint they got both the C and F value wrong. Mark
  6. By getting the car fully up to temp on a hot day and then letting it stand running for some time and if the fan does not come on then, check the switch with a meter. The switch does not turn on the fan until the oil in the cooler gets to 188C. Fans were not fitted to all 3.2s and are only necessary in hot regions on a hot day in standing traffic, e.g. after you unexpectedly hit a traffic jam straight after a motorway blast. On the move the fan has little effect on temp. Where are you located? Are you getting hot oil issues? In hotter States in the US the guys fit a switch from a BMW as a precaution, as it turns on the fan at a lower temperature. You need to do a search on Pelican for more info. Mark
  7. Yes, but. All the new standards concentrate on friction and film retention under rotation, meshing and sliding. There is no longer a need for manufactures to be concerned with impact, which you only get in a flat tappet engine. Synthetic oil and their additives perform very well in all aspects needed for a modern engine design, not so sure they do so well in the case of impact. Older non synthetic oils with more traditional additives have a proven track record regarding impact performance. From the chemistry involved it is also highly likely that, additives aside, a non synthetic base will have better impact performance than a synthetic base. So what we use in our older engines has to be a compromise based on what is available today. Mark
  8. If many of us can drill out broken exhaust studs without damaging the threads, laying on our back under the car with a hand drill, it will be a breeze with heads under a pillar drill. Have a search for various post on on it. Mark
  9. True, but the question was potential adjustment of what was in place. Mark
  10. Looking good Std sports shocks/struts are green Bilsteins, but I think very later cars may have had black Boge sports ones (not be confused with the std non sports black Boge). Koni make adjustable shocks that are usually yellow, but aftermarket sports Bilsteins are also yellow. Shock adjustment won't effect ride height, have a search on here for plenty of inf on ride height adjustment. Matk
  11. SilverWT

    Next Challenge

    Three pumps. As well as the intensive one on the tank by the shock tower and the main windscreen one by the battery there is the headlamp one on the main tank under the nearside wing. You need to get yourself a manual. I see Nice has just replied as I was typing
  12. The fuel pressure regulator should retain pressure in the fuel lines/rails when the engine is turned off, this would prevent fuel vaporisation. You can attach a pressure gauge to the fuel rail test port (left side rail at the end near you when you are looking into the engine bay) and measure pressure drop against time, on turning the engine off it should be 2.5 bar falling to 1.0 bar after 20 min. Mark
  13. Gently twist it anticlockwise. The needle is a tight press fit on the shaft and the shaft has a built in stop to twist against. If you do this in combination with the odometer cog replacement the speedo needle will already have been removed by pulling upwards while twisting against the stops and you can push it back on in the desired place. Mark
  14. The Odometer on my 3.2 packed up a couple of month ago, it was the usual "disintegrating cog" problem, so replaced it without issue (except coming to terms with £38 for a little bit of plastic!). My speedo has always annoyed me by over reading by too much, especially at low speeds (a true 26 mph when reading 30 mph) and so decided to try and fix it by adjusting the needle stop position a bit (down a bit further below the first marking). I guessed at about 6mm lower expecting to have to adjust it a bit when comparing it to a GPS reading, but looks like I was lucky first time. Road test showed it to be spot on at 20, 30 and 40. Then 49 at an indicated 50, 58 at an indicated 60 and I am very confident that it will be 85 at an indicated 90. So, an easy adjustment if you have the glass off your speedo. Mark
  • Create New...