fat fuchs
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Hi Tim, the Dansk sills are a poor fit compared to Porsche items. Firstly, make sure the mating surfaces (where spot welds have been removed) are completely free of weld remnants. Also ensure they are completely straight along the length of the sill. Clamp the outer sill at the top and be absolutely sure it’s as tight as possible and secure with self tapping screws. Remove the clamps and check the fit against the door. If everything is clean/straight then it should align reasonably well. Then secure the lower sill flange with screws. You may need to ‘compress’ the sill vertically to get the flange to sit against the inner sill correctly. There’s no simple answer other than test fit after test fit with grinding surfaces clean in between fits. Happy to chat on the phone if I can help. cheers A
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bs0-G2vIWiU
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One type only on an SC. Make sure you're buying the correct SC version and not a 924 one (which look the same) being sold as an SC version. It is possible to switch the hubs to make them fit but why bother. Cheers FF
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Should be very satisfying removing all that crud. Good work👍. Hope the new seal goes in without too much trouble,
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If you’re using old panels from the car to make repair sections, make sure you remove the galvanising before welding. Apologies if you’re already aware of the potential issues👍
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Hi Tim, Yes 25mm sq section should be fine as bracing. Re the welding question, I would suggest trying different guages of steel first, to get a feel for setting up your welder to suit each thickness. You don't mention the spec/type of welder you are planning to use? Modern MIG machines can work out gas/wire speed settings for you by entering the metal guage. You also need to decide on either 0.6 or 0.8 wire thickness (I use 0.8) and also what gas you intend to use. Practice, practice before you touch the car.
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As Matt says above or, you can also bend the whole tabs back with pin nose pliers/screwdriver to loosen the grip on the plastic lugs and avoid all risk of damage to the reflector. You can straighten the clips again later before installation. Whichever way works best for you Tim.
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Nice find, congrats. Look forward to further updates.
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From memory you'll need to remove the rear vertical door guide to get the glass in btw Cheers FF
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Wd40 should be sufficient. Glue shouldn’t be required.
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You can fit the runner first and slide it in complete and attach to the regulator. Frame goes in after that. If your frame is already in, you will have to attach the runner to the glass within the door shell.
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Thanks for organising this Ian. Enjoyable morning and great to meet everyone.
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nZysvgm2_Aw&pp=ygUOaGFycnkncyBnYXJhZ2U%3D Sensible and balanced view.
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Good decision 👍
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I went down that road but with a 996 Turbo. Was back in an SC in less than 3 months. The turbo was a fast and more comfortable car but missed the SC too much. Hope it works out for you and good luck with the auction 👍
