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fat fuchs

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About fat fuchs

  • Rank
    IB Glitterati

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bedfordshire

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    911 SC

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  1. Hi Mark, For the record, i'm no expert lol. I've only assembled one 74 USA car and that was at least 4 years ago now so I wouldn't like to steer you down a wrong path on your questions based upon memory. Can I suggest you reach out to 'eebee' on here because he had a high quality full nut/bolt resto done on his 74 about a year ago and he should be able to answer your queries by referencing his car. https://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/31583-eib62-1974-911-targa-now-fully-restored/ Cheers Andrew
  2. Your technique worked Ivan thanks👍
  3. +1. Just did mine last week and went together as described above (including chasing the circlips around the floor). I wouldn't short cut anything on driveshafts just to be safe and sure.
  4. Fitting those two tanks fights me every time I do them. Getting the pair aligned to fit the bolt through whilst keeping the evaporation tank from falling back off! Hope it was easier for you with everything so clean and crud free. Purely out of interest, why did you leave the washer tank bracket unfinished rather than stone chip/body colour? Loving this thread/build. FF
  5. fat fuchs

    Targa time

    You actually have everything in terms of history that came with the car Matt but I can confirm that I sank a whole lot of time, effort and money into that car. It was painted by ACR in Bedfordshire using the correct Glasurit paint materials at a cost nudging £10k. Pretty much all the running gear/suspension is new and the majority of the new body panels and seals fitted are genuine Porsche items. The owner before me was actually using the car as a daily prior to its restoration. It's also Dinitrol wax protected internally throughout. GLWS Matt.
  6. That's a stunning build you're doing on the 74. Everything going together in line with the PET diagrams and clinically clean. Are you running Boge shocks on the front and Koni on the rear? Cheers FF
  7. Thanks. I do too but I have to say the Sahara Beige on your car is a shade nicer. Cheers FF
  8. This round of work is now complete, which I started back in October... In addition, other 'while you're in there' jobs included; New rear main seal New main shaft seal New Clutch New Flywheel New Guide Tube New Clutch Fork Cosmetic repairs to Tin Ware Crankcase breather gasket Engine Thermostat O ring New CV Joint New Crankcase breather hoses Finally back together although it won't be doing much until spring now... Just some corner balancing and alignment to do. Interior refresh next.
  9. fat fuchs

    Lid Stays

    Neat installation Phill, nice work. Looking very clean and purposeful in that engine bay.
  10. I can see what's coming...www.busybeedetailing.co.uk sideline business. Both wax based I guess Nice work Haith Cheers A
  11. Engine and box back in. Started to hook everything back up. Oil lines back in too
  12. Not sure what you mean Phill. Are you looking at the fluted section on the crossover pipe? It's all standard stuff but some crossover pipes are two piece whereas this is a one piece item. Cheers FF
  13. Engine, gearbox and starter motor back together. Should have them back in the car today.
  14. Next on the job list was changing the clutch release fork and guide tube. On the fork, the contact surfaces were worn and some early signs of stress fractures could be seen. The guide tube had some wear evident and a 'flat' section at one point of its radius. New fork in place with new seals. There are a several different guidelines and opinions on how many of these seals should be fitted and where they should be placed. I referenced PET, Haynes, Pelican and various internet sites. The general recommendation was to install a seal top and bottom of the fork so I've run with that. Then on to the Guide Tube and the main-shaft seal. New main-shaft seal fitted together with outer 'O' ring. The seal had to pressed into place to the exact same depth as the old one which I measured before removal. I used a vice and socket to press the seal in making sure it was level in both axis. Splines taped up to avoid damage to seal during installation New loctite fixing screws. Removing the old screws required an impact driver and the guide tube itself called for a slide hammer before it gave in and came out. Completed
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