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About Strictly

  • Rank
    IB Addict

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  • Location
    Newquay, Cornwall

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1973 911T 2.4
  • Drive of your life
    my old sc, now that was a great car

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  1. loctite 574 has served me very well for engines and gearboxes, i have yet to have a problem with it. very thin smear on both gasket faces. I have changed that particular gasket a few times, and never had a problem....
  2. see below. my 74 is cinnamon, but no pics, everything is below a pile of stuff. Cork is close enough
  3. amazing download, best of you get the gen porsche manual as well and all the TSB's....use them over bentley!
  4. Good work!!! awesome to get a result, and build that confidence too. It is a complex system, and while I have a good working knowledge of it spread over about 6 or 7 x 911s I sorted out, i'm faaaaaaar from an expert. Its the same injection as the mk1 golf, so its just a confidence thing, just because its a "Porsche" dosent mean we cant fit it ourselves....this is what is best about the forum after all (well that and a drive somewhere all together, if I ever get my own cars fixed lol) . ….well done for taking the ONE AT A TIME approach. That is the o-n-l-y way to diagnosis a problem especially the "parts by substitution method". Having worked since 1992 as a mechanic/engineer, its drives me nuts when I see someone throwing parts at something! lol Well done for not giving up, your head was in the right place as you bought the kit.....some final comments on the WUR for anyone else following behind in your footsteps.... 1) an adjustable WUR is nice....but not necessary, and its for cold only anyway 2) thanks for checking the 089, so important to besure a discussion of pressure could be consistant….so important to check multiple books, never rely on just the one...Incidenelty there is a 089 graph in the technical spec book, matt from Type 911 sells them, good to have in the glovebox! 3) Yes you should set HOT control first, but thankfully in your case you did not need to.....for anyone ever thinking about doing it, you basically take the wur apart carefully heat up and move the big cast iron bung up which the fuel lines go to, using a g glamp (spread the load over the 4 bottom screws), leave the pin out, connect the gauges and carefully push that big iron thing back in...check vac, then put the pin back in, and do the same for the "cold" plunger 4) for anyone following, I prefer a G glamp to move and set the wur bits, rather than a hammer, but I have used both 5) okay Sooooooooooooooooo WUR and System Pressures in spec....now for the next bits!!! ....if you flick back a few pages in the Bentley manual, you will see there are some basic CIS settings that should always be checked before pressures are even checked, things like being sure the air flow plate does not bind, the air flow plate is set at the right height, the air flow plate has a gap around it, the throttle stop is set in the right place etc...its all in the books, under basic settings or something like that....Once you have done all of this....the next steps for you are to do a flow test of your injectors, by putting them in little pots (Messy), and with the engine off and fuel pump hot wired to test the flow is the same from all injectors at 1/1, 1/2, 1/4 of the Air flow plate position....if not then its into the FD! ...from here its...vacuum leak testing on the (cigar/smoke testing works well here), and etc!! Luke P.S I used to work on 911's (aircooled only) for a living, aka Air Cooled Classics....just for fun now ;=P
  5. There is one benefit….as before you DONT need the engine running, you can do all of this on a stone cold engine, which is a lot safer and less noxious. Once you sort the WUR you can move on to the injectors and the FD, but for now...its the WUR for breakfast lunch and dinner ==== So to summarise, ill log back in a few days. In the meantime A)take a pic of your WUR part number B) download the FACTORY manual (fuel section), If you scroll back you will find my link, 3) buy a vac gauge (or if you have to have the engine running, but this does not really help your diagnosis...if you have a vac leak....as your WUR you set up will then not actually be right! 4) get a temp gauge or multimeter with a temp probe, and then...lets look at those pressures. If they are out, I will tell you how to adjust them. To have the WUR rebuilt is about £250+VAT so considering your saving cash and getting "free" tools in the process instead of shelling out, all while learning, all is good p.S I started just like you, and now know a lot more. Far from an expert, for sure, but the WUR I do know, I have had 3 or 4 apart and set for warm and cold
  6. As you can see you have to triangulate your pressure based on vaccum and temperature.... Bentley, the lazy f**kers just tell you to have the engine running.....which is great....if you don't have a vacuum leak, and your engine running vacuum at idle corresponds to.....450 to 550mBar.... So basically you need more equipment!! Multimeters often come with a temperature probe, and a vac gauge is cheap enough, you can probally get both of what you need for under 50 on ebay, and you will use both to repair your SC!! I don't often use the vaccum gauge, except for CIS, but the multimeter for sure!!
  7. Just to add while your waiting, for checking the WUR control pressures, you need Pressure Gauge Vacuum Gauge Temperature Gauge You need all 3 to fix your position on the graph....as per one of my early posts on the topic, you can download the factory workshop manual, I use both, not just the Bentley. running with the idea you have a 089 wur fitted just for to explain...show your part number pic as above posts....
  8. Ok , so above first. Don't touch the pin yet, it depends on which one you have, taping it down on most will make it richer, that's lower pressure, that is the opposite of what you want. I will explain how to do cold and hot.... So good news on the system pressure, I think next step is wait for the last three numbers of the wur...to be sure we are talking 100% about the same pressures. I'll check back in a few days.
  9. Ok a few things. CIS/EFI First of all stick with the CIS, sure we would al love EFI, but CIS works just fine,...when its working, and plenty tunable WUR I have thought about building an adjustable WUR, perhaps one day, but for now you can just adjust your WUR then next time build and adjustable one WUR PART NUMBER Take a picture of your part number. Note the one in picture has two part numbers a 145 and a 045, the correct number for this one is the 045. Its just an example take your rubber hose off clean and take a picture, then we can be sure of the graph!!! ==== More comments in a sec
  10. The vacuum also controls the control fuel pressure between IDLE and WOT and back again, exactly the same as a throttle position control regular did mechanically on the early 73 to 76/77 911 CIS, its all in the books....The main point is the HOT Control Pressure which is governed by the WUR must change with XXXX vacuum applied, between say 3.0 bar and X.X bar (for 76/77) and on, according to specification , if it does the check when running, that you are seeing the same vacuum….if your are not check for vacuum leaks, IF the WUR is not responding to VAC changes, then take it apart, and rebuild it. If it's all tickety boo, move on to the next point, as there are a loads more things to look at!!.
  11. Ah if its the one inside the door, you probally dont need a new one. I have never needed to buy one!! Just clean it, and relubricate, making sure it locks and unlocks before you put the whole lock back in. Of course something could be broken, but more than likely seized. Frame and window out, and then you can get at it!
  12. It could also be any of the 3 above under the air box (thermostat, oil breather, oil pressure switch). As craigt said, brake clean, and determine if engine or gearbox oil. If engine then one of 4 leaks. Which can be a PITA to figure out, due to the injection in the way (i.e one leaking looks like from any of the top 3). If gearbox you can do the trans output shaft seal. I have learned over time not to hammer seal in, it does often damage them. I think last time i did one of those. I put the seal in the fridge, made a special tool, so when i tightened the guide tube, it pushed the new seal in, then a smear of 574 round the outside of the new seal, with oil on the shaft, and basically pushed it in, by tightening the guide. Left it overnight then operated the gearbox to see if leaked. You of course clean everything when you have the seal out etc. I would approach the RMS in a similar way. Again i have a special tool made so i can pull it in it through using the 6 or 9 flywheel bolt holes.
  13. Actually i didnt think your system pressure was low. Lowish yes, but the spec if 4.5 to 5.2 and the 4.5 you had is technically in spec!!! But even so, I would adjust it at the pressure regulator valve on the side of the FD, the o-rings can go and need replacing, but just for an adjustment, you simply change one of the copper washers for another one until its in the middle of 4.5 to 5.2 (i.e 4.85). The extra ones in the kit as you thought are just to get different pressures, only one copper shim. The gauge....yes you need to bleed it, you turn it upside down and squeeze the bleed thing if you have it, it will bleed out. You should do it once or twice. it should bleed to out a bit (a trickle is normal), and then jump straight back to where it was on the gauge. Make sure your CIS tester is connected correctly, valve on the LEFT, so when you turn the valve closed it can only show the system pressure, and when the valve is open it shows you the control pressure. I would rebleed for system or control, then when control is done and cold, plug the WUR in and just watch the gauge rise to what ever the hot control should be. Can you post your graphs for me, do both, the bentley and the porsche factory manual, you can download the factory manual from the link above.... The warm system pressure is a bit of a red herring. While it is weird....the fuel pressures are done with the engine off! so technically the warm for system is never measured, in fact i dont think i have ever measured it. Certainly you could be on to something, but as its not part of a normal diagnosis procedure (it is not in any of the manuals to do it this way), then ignore it and treat it for now as a red herring. The accumulator you can test, I cant remember but the procedure is in the book. I think (from memory) you disconnect the bottom pipe and basically see if any fuel comes out, and more than that I cant remember. Heres what you should do : 1) Forget about the Hot System pressure for now, do your tests with the engine off, and fuel pump hot wired, cold engine. Use the right shim to set your pressure to whatever the book says for your FD (post the picture), probally between 4.5 and 5.2, in that case go 4.85. Once that is set, test the rest pressure over 10, 20 and 30 minutes. Compare to specification. This is the cold system pressure, or just system pressure, and all we care about. Maybe we will end up full circle back to this for this mysterious hot system pressure.....but for now I would move on, as the books certainly dont do it this way. 2) Now Test your cold control and warm, again post the graphs and the results. One of the manuals you have to apply vacuum for it to work as per the graph hence why i said check both graphs, post a picture. Once you have the warm steady, suck on the vac connection for the WUR and watch i it change the warm control pressure. If it does not.....figure out why...Basically the engine vacuum changes in response to the throttle plate, which changes the fuel pressure at the WUR, when finished test the rest pressure over 10,20 and 30 minutes, compare to specification. Start with those tests, and post the results, with the information from the workshop manual, if all looks okay then move on....if not then fix this and try the car before the next steps..... Luke
  14. yes, plenty, isolate if its the door lock inside the door, then wd40 the hell out of the mechanism or remove the frame and pull the lock, and lubricate it. If its the lock, its just something mechanical and its an easy fix. The door will also hang is the b post latch is not correctly adjusted and shimmed. The correct alignment of the b post latch will normally conencide with a nice door closure sound and the top of the wing to door lined up, but that all depends if your door is correctly shimmed and lined up on the A post!
  15. A new washer and a smear of 574 on both sides of the washer if you have to, belts and braces. You could probally just jack the car up high on its side (be carefull now), and measure just the 1-2 litres you would lose, then top up the oil tank rather than a full change. most will be in the tank rather than the crankcase, unless its been sitting a while, and worked through the oil pump. I personally always use a torque wrench, i have all sizes and keep them calibrated. You can of course just feel you way, but i have to say for years I undertorqued the little 10mm sump nuts on my vw's only when I started using a torque wrench did i realise 10nm is a bit more!! Since then I always used a torque wrench. And of course everything has to be CLEAN, and FLAT
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