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Strictly

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About Strictly

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newquay, Cornwall

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1979 911SC
  • Day Job?
    Engineer
  • Drive of your life
    my old sc, now that was a great car

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Silverstone Classic FULL WEEKEND + CAMPING (Silverstone Classic) : 2 Adults + 1 Kid I have a spare pair of tickets (plus 1 kid if you need it) as follows for Silverstone Classics Full weekend (Fri/Sat/Sun) + Camping (non-electric) : Silverstone Golf Club, Both for 2 adults Price £232.50 1 x Kid Full Weekend (under 11; Free), and camping for under 6 (also free). Basically if your kid is under 6 then its free entry and free camping, if over 6 then entrance only (also free) up to age 11/ If your interested TEXT me (tonight only), tomorrow you can call. Please dont send a PM, as I probally wont check it in time!! P.S I will email tickets after payment - I can also meet you there if you really want, im heading up early friday....but you will need to pay first. Luke 07725860116
  2. I'm having a clear out to make way for buying some more parts for my 911. As above, but reduction in price as follows below Pics in dropbox link, not as per my above description not all parts are present (just read above). Option A) £650 see option A description Option B) £1250 see option B description. Option C) no longer an option Note that unless it goes as A, no other parts available, i.e to get the suspension you have to by B in its entirety.
  3. Hi just to say for me can you shuffle me to the narrow body, its a standard 1979 SC....i presume that is Narrow Body, and a Widebody is for a turbo/930/935/super sport 3.2 or anything with wide back wheels? If im in the right place for a standard 79sc, then no worries! Thanks for organising it all Luke
  4. as above indeed, and it says porsche on the side of the belt which is nice (but they really do fit better), good tip on the torque wrench, i always use one on everything (engine/suspension) but never on the belt, i'll keep that in mind and try next time i do all belts such that if you can just twist it 90 degrees then it is tight enough, that said I always also start the engine, and rev it looking at the belt, if you see it "flap" then its not tight enough, and your alt bearings while whine if its over tight
  5. I had a few engines which were 35@5000 and 38@6000, thereafter I just timed at 5000 (35), as also a little chicken, there was defo still advance above 4000. I cant remember how much might have just been 1-3 degrees. I also experimented with 32 to 38 @ 6000, I cant remember what I preferred most, as that particular car is gone, but i dont think i always ran it at 38, probably choosing 35 for a bit of safety With vw engines (T1,T2,T4), i didn't used to bother with a RPM check, as they clearly maxed out around 3000-3500, and i would just rev it till the timing stayed still, then moved the dizzy so it was 30-32 depending on how I was feeling at the time. . I'll try the 4000 next time, but for anyone new to this, whether you use idle or etc, take it to 6000 as a final check as per the factory manuals/specs, checking 4000 and 5000 as you go, you'll then be able to decide for your own motor/dizzy combo what you can use next time for quick checks.... P.S Not necessary for timing/CIS, but for anyone spending a while tuning zenith/weber/pmo carbs etc, buy a 3m length of silicone ply hot air hose the same as the red hot air hose between the end of the heat exchanger and the car heater boxes, and put it over your exhaust tail pipe to direct all the fumes away from you. You can pick up 3m length etc on ebay. Measure your exhaust tip first. Ive spent too many hours on those zeniths getting 'em all flowing the same.
  6. funny enough i have seen 5 or 6 shims mentioned in genuine porsche literature, which I have never gotten to the bottom of. I have always used 6, but i read 5 in an owners manual not that long ago and it was not the first time ive seen that.... I'll see if I still have it (I have a couple of manuals, plus loads of tech books). A good trick, is a tiny smear of grease on the shims on the outside so they stick to each other then you can put them in "as one", then when you tighten dont use the special pulley holder (yet), simply tighten the nut, turning the engine (which turns the pulley), checking the shims have not fallen to one side (where you then accidently squash them), then when you get to the point that all you are doing is turning the engine with your spanner, then put the special pulley holder on and finish tightening the belt. Finally of course check belt tension (just twist 90 deg mid way at longest point) Complete by looking at the belt while reving the engine while at the engine and see if it still seems "loose"
  7. dont forget to time at max advance (6000rpm), yeah its a little scary but from memory a vw golf gti was the same with no idle timing actually provided in the manual... In any case do it at max, or at 5000 if your chicken (and retard a few degrees). The purpose of it is to allow from some slack/wear in the dizzy (and of course to be sure its not over advanced!). The idle timing is really just a basic "initial" setting to be sure it will run, then max advance for the final timing, leaving it where ever it then rests at idle (i.e the slack/wear bit) P.s it sounds like you sorted your light, but with some, i have found quite simply there were a bit dim, and needed a not so bright workspace to see them.
  8. green, then drive it, or drive it then paint them green "another time"
  9. if its not leaking, or burning oil, then stick with what's in it, especially as the engine was just rebuilt. I would (have used) anything from a 5/40, 10/40, 15/40, to 20/50 depending on the particular engine (all a/c 911's) and its general condition at the time.
  10. Enjoy, I still remember my first 911 (79 targa still owned by an IB member), addiction indeed, i've had 14 since. I love the SC personally, and yours is great colour! On the flat lid idea, first drive yours over 100 MPH, then remove just the rear whale tail (not the whole lid) and the front chin spoiler under the front valance and drive the exact test route again. Choose the handling of which you prefer from your test. For me in that particular test, I felt my SC defiantly felt more "squat" (pushed down on to the road) at high speeds, which I much preferred over the looks. Might have just been me, but for that reason I put them back on. For sure looks better without. That said, the IMO 3.2 whale tail looks better than your version, which could be a decent compromise....
  11. Hi Peter, Thanks for the tip. I do also use a mask with those clear shields! got a 79 too =P, good idea I will try and use a helment for grinding which has cheap interchangble clear lenses. with a bit of research it is looking like 3M offer a battery powered belt air blower systems in 3 versions (Adflo, Versaflo, and Jupiter). The jupiter/versaflo have quite a range of filters, and at least for the Jupiter can interface with their weld, "grind" or spray helmets, so it looks like the system I am after does exist! Ive not yet figured out the right system (adflo VS versaflo VS jupiter), cost of consumables, etc, that is the next step....! I'm not too fused on the price of the kit, as I save an absolute fortune doing all of the restoration work on my 911 myself, so that saving can "pay" for it =P
  12. I'm planning on getting an air fed (PAPR) mask, for mig-welding/grinding/general prep and paint (epoxy + 1K cellulose). I dont think there is one mask for all....but if so please share, or any recommendations for a good "system" where by I can use the same lithium ion belt pack with air feed/filters and then just change helmets....? If not they I will buy a system for welding/grinding and another for prep/paint. I wear glasses, so any anti-fog masks/helmets are a big plus. The 3m stuff looks great. I have worked on cars for 25 years, but my lungs are not what they used to be, and time to throw some cash at equipment, even if it is just 95% a hobby these days. I also plan to ventilate my work area not just PPE Im all ears....
  13. Nice work! I'm 100% down for a narrow body set, sounds like i also need to buy you more than a couple of beers if I ever get the chance in person.
  14. if you want to confirm its the master cylinder before fitting a new one, as before refit your old flexis, bleed through the callipers then clamp all the flexis off, if the pedal still sinks, bleed the master, then rebleed the calipers and re-clamp the flexis, and the pedel still sinks after that replace the master. If you have thrown your old flexis away, then either block off the lines, where the flexis attach and then bleed and check, or just fit a new master cylinder. I myself hate "just throwing parts" at something on a hunch, and will always diagnose a fault with a part before replacing it. I've never wrecked a master cylinder through bleeding, and that in 25 years or so, and something like 200 cars or more. I'm sure it can happen, i've just never had a problem, bleeding either 2 man or 1 man. The only problems I have had where related to the wrong parts being fitted, so the pedel never felt right.
  15. Ah for braided no i dont clamp What pressure did you use? 1 bar (15 psi) or less and you will be fine. Sounds like quite a bit of work; Check all lines of course (connections). One trick i have tried in the past, which worked a few times, was all bleed nipples closed, pump the brake pedal say 5 -10 times, then go and quickly open and close one bleed nipple, you may get a gush of air. Its worked for me where the i basically managed to push all the air to the nipple, but of course it could not get past it, until i quickly opened and closed it. If the servo is the only original bit, then does that mean the master cylinder was also changed? if so bleed the master cylinder. It may not be air, it may be something else, but i suppose you have to rule that out. If you are really stumped in a couple of days then I would do this..... Disconnect the rear brakes at the flexis, put your old flexis back on and clamp them (or buy 2 x female stop for the line), so that only your front brakes are actually connected to the car, and then see how they feel, if still not right, do the same thing on the rear, add the old flexis and clamp (or disconnect and block the lines), and keep chasing it on to a simpler and simpler system......until you have a nice hard pedal, that pumps up right and stays hard, then work back wards one pair or corner at a time. Ive worked on cars for 25 years (hobby and professional) and I still hate hydraulics when it came to problem solving!
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