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  • Location
    Newquay, Cornwall

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1973 911T 2.4
  • Drive of your life
    my old sc, now that was a great car

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  1. "If I lift the airflow sensor plate for 5 seconds to prime - then crank - all is good. - Cold start valve has voltage and continuity, but on a bench with a crude 2.4 bar test if gives a stream of fuel and not atomised. But others suggest ignore it - check control and sys pressures first. " The wur is important, and absolutely as part of your system you should check the cold/warm control pressure and system pressure, plus a rest pressure for each (i.e pressure after 10,20,30 minutes).....but I would have a look at your Cold start circuit more especially for 7-8 cranks....and the "stream of fuel" I would do this as a test for the CSV A) Attach you CSV to the fuel line at back, disconnect the wiring for the CSV from the TTS located on the top left cam cover (note which way it goes). B) rig up a manual switch, if you want to use the CSV electrical plug, which has the yellow and reddish wire from the TTS in the top left valve cover, then disconnect the yellow wire on the starter..... C) now get the FP on, and prime the system, operate the CSV using the switch and check you have a nice SPRAY of fuel..... D) IF so then fit the CSV with new o ring for base, and o ring for the holder plus a new copper washer. E) when connected, you are ready to start, flip the CSV on and go and start the car, then run back and switch the CSV off...now let the car run normally and warm up F) shut the car down, and next day repeat and see if starts up straight away (1-2 seconds). If so, then you need to still find the fault....which I will explain. If not, then its not your CSV (or unlikely), so you move on to the control fuel pressure.... G) if the CSV operated manually works, then its time to look at the wiring either to the TTS, of between the TTS and the CSV or the TTS itself. Check for continuity between the starter motor and the yellow connection on the TTS. A quick check is pull the yellow wire of the TTS and put 12v to it, and the car should crank over....912's have something similar, a great way to spin the car over from the engine bay!!! If the yellow from the TTS to starter is good, then check the yellow also has continuity to the CSV electrical switch, and finally check the CSV electrical switch to the CSV for the other red wire. It a very simple circuit, when you operate the starter (solenoid) power goes along the yellow wire from the starter through the engine harness, into the TTS, then along to the CSV, the earth to turn the circuit on and off, is the red wire, and the TTS itself. It basically breaks the circuit after a certain temperature, so the CSV cant get an earth signal to complete the circuit and make it work. It is explained well in both the bentley and the factory workshop manual....once you have ruled out your CSV move on to your control/system pressure.... ....to answer your question...some WUR's have the vac on top, and some have it on the side...you will have to just figure it out....your WUR number will give you a clue....use the bentley or workshop manual, the link is in this forum!! The bosch manual wont give enough exact information, the specific manuals explain all the tests specific to a 911, which save time Good luck, once you have checked the CSV/TTS circuit, post your cold/warm control pressure and system pressures that you record on your gauge along with your vac tests rest pressures (i.e warm control, no vac applied, after 10, 20 and 30 minutes with the FP off), same for system a picture of your WUR graph and of course a picture of the WUR showing the correct 3 numbers (so you know you have the correct graph)
  2. Answers are above...but to add Q1, engine OFF its much safer! Engine on is only so the engine adds vacuum itself to the WUR at idle and you get slightly different spec depending on which book you are reading, for example bently says engine idling for the correct vac reading...that's a wonderful idea as long as you don't have any vacs leaks! Personally its the factory workshop manual every time as a first port of call (available in this forum FOC!!)...and then triangulate all 3 (fuel pressure, temperature, vacuum) to position the WUR plunger. Q2. Yes you should check after! If you have no vac leaks, then it should be the same answer. That said the Bentley manual does have plenty of errors, flip to the SC and 3.2 page on the clutch throw out bearing washer, and im 99% (im working from memory here), the Bentley manual has it upside down for example!!!! that was nice of them. For that reason I always consult both the factory and Bentley manual, and check the information is the same, rather than totally rely on one of the other. Q3 as above answer....no need to cap the injectors they will not inject unless you lift the AFS plate or your mixture is way off ==== just to add....before you even think about the WUR there is aload of other things to check first....its all in the workshop manual or Bentley manual, things like air flow sensor plate rest height, throttle stop clearance, etc. Its all in the books at the very beginning of the chapter on fuel injection, and of course the procedure for chasing ANY engine running/starting issue is always 1) Block (compression, valve timing) 2) Ignition 3) Fuel system Of course if you have a hunch (or know your car well, and have already checked 1/2) you can just jump in at any point....BUT before spending any considerable time, its 1 then 2 then 3. Its taken me 25 years of working on cars (on/off professionally too), to settle down to that, and chasing problems on the FS which were actually either 1 or 2 as the key issues. Luke
  3. Strictly

    Valve adjustment

    as above, use a mirror to find the Z1 notch, that is TDC. If you have no dizzy, and want to be extra sure you could check the cams, which will be dots up or keyways up (more or less), that said looking at the rockers on 1 and 4 will give you an idea. Yes to leave plugs in, saves carbon falling off an interferring with the measurement. a great tip to feeling 0.004"......use a digital caliper/vernier gauge with a tiny bit of oil to learn the feel. Check all your rockers are tight at the same time, along with a peek at the headstuds. Lastly use the valve adjustment tool!! and get a spare blade, you will eat one on a tight valve.
  4. loctite 574 has served me very well for engines and gearboxes, i have yet to have a problem with it. very thin smear on both gasket faces. I have changed that particular gasket a few times, and never had a problem....
  5. see below. my 74 is cinnamon, but no pics, everything is below a pile of stuff. Cork is close enough
  6. amazing download, best of you get the gen porsche manual as well and all the TSB's....use them over bentley!
  7. Good work!!! awesome to get a result, and build that confidence too. It is a complex system, and while I have a good working knowledge of it spread over about 6 or 7 x 911s I sorted out, i'm faaaaaaar from an expert. Its the same injection as the mk1 golf, so its just a confidence thing, just because its a "Porsche" dosent mean we cant fit it ourselves....this is what is best about the forum after all (well that and a drive somewhere all together, if I ever get my own cars fixed lol) . ….well done for taking the ONE AT A TIME approach. That is the o-n-l-y way to diagnosis a problem especially the "parts by substitution method". Having worked since 1992 as a mechanic/engineer, its drives me nuts when I see someone throwing parts at something! lol Well done for not giving up, your head was in the right place as you bought the kit.....some final comments on the WUR for anyone else following behind in your footsteps.... 1) an adjustable WUR is nice....but not necessary, and its for cold only anyway 2) thanks for checking the 089, so important to besure a discussion of pressure could be consistant….so important to check multiple books, never rely on just the one...Incidenelty there is a 089 graph in the technical spec book, matt from Type 911 sells them, good to have in the glovebox! 3) Yes you should set HOT control first, but thankfully in your case you did not need to.....for anyone ever thinking about doing it, you basically take the wur apart carefully heat up and move the big cast iron bung up which the fuel lines go to, using a g glamp (spread the load over the 4 bottom screws), leave the pin out, connect the gauges and carefully push that big iron thing back in...check vac, then put the pin back in, and do the same for the "cold" plunger 4) for anyone following, I prefer a G glamp to move and set the wur bits, rather than a hammer, but I have used both 5) okay Sooooooooooooooooo WUR and System Pressures in spec....now for the next bits!!! ....if you flick back a few pages in the Bentley manual, you will see there are some basic CIS settings that should always be checked before pressures are even checked, things like being sure the air flow plate does not bind, the air flow plate is set at the right height, the air flow plate has a gap around it, the throttle stop is set in the right place etc...its all in the books, under basic settings or something like that....Once you have done all of this....the next steps for you are to do a flow test of your injectors, by putting them in little pots (Messy), and with the engine off and fuel pump hot wired to test the flow is the same from all injectors at 1/1, 1/2, 1/4 of the Air flow plate position....if not then its into the FD! ...from here its...vacuum leak testing on the (cigar/smoke testing works well here), and etc!! Luke P.S I used to work on 911's (aircooled only) for a living, aka Air Cooled Classics....just for fun now ;=P
  8. There is one benefit….as before you DONT need the engine running, you can do all of this on a stone cold engine, which is a lot safer and less noxious. Once you sort the WUR you can move on to the injectors and the FD, but for now...its the WUR for breakfast lunch and dinner ==== So to summarise, ill log back in a few days. In the meantime A)take a pic of your WUR part number B) download the FACTORY manual (fuel section), If you scroll back you will find my link, 3) buy a vac gauge (or if you have to have the engine running, but this does not really help your diagnosis...if you have a vac leak....as your WUR you set up will then not actually be right! 4) get a temp gauge or multimeter with a temp probe, and then...lets look at those pressures. If they are out, I will tell you how to adjust them. To have the WUR rebuilt is about £250+VAT so considering your saving cash and getting "free" tools in the process instead of shelling out, all while learning, all is good p.S I started just like you, and now know a lot more. Far from an expert, for sure, but the WUR I do know, I have had 3 or 4 apart and set for warm and cold
  9. As you can see you have to triangulate your pressure based on vaccum and temperature.... Bentley, the lazy f**kers just tell you to have the engine running.....which is great....if you don't have a vacuum leak, and your engine running vacuum at idle corresponds to.....450 to 550mBar.... So basically you need more equipment!! Multimeters often come with a temperature probe, and a vac gauge is cheap enough, you can probally get both of what you need for under 50 on ebay, and you will use both to repair your SC!! I don't often use the vaccum gauge, except for CIS, but the multimeter for sure!!
  10. Just to add while your waiting, for checking the WUR control pressures, you need Pressure Gauge Vacuum Gauge Temperature Gauge You need all 3 to fix your position on the graph....as per one of my early posts on the topic, you can download the factory workshop manual, I use both, not just the Bentley. running with the idea you have a 089 wur fitted just for to explain...show your part number pic as above posts....
  11. Ok , so above first. Don't touch the pin yet, it depends on which one you have, taping it down on most will make it richer, that's lower pressure, that is the opposite of what you want. I will explain how to do cold and hot.... So good news on the system pressure, I think next step is wait for the last three numbers of the wur...to be sure we are talking 100% about the same pressures. I'll check back in a few days.
  12. Ok a few things. CIS/EFI First of all stick with the CIS, sure we would al love EFI, but CIS works just fine,...when its working, and plenty tunable WUR I have thought about building an adjustable WUR, perhaps one day, but for now you can just adjust your WUR then next time build and adjustable one WUR PART NUMBER Take a picture of your part number. Note the one in picture has two part numbers a 145 and a 045, the correct number for this one is the 045. Its just an example take your rubber hose off clean and take a picture, then we can be sure of the graph!!! ==== More comments in a sec
  13. The vacuum also controls the control fuel pressure between IDLE and WOT and back again, exactly the same as a throttle position control regular did mechanically on the early 73 to 76/77 911 CIS, its all in the books....The main point is the HOT Control Pressure which is governed by the WUR must change with XXXX vacuum applied, between say 3.0 bar and X.X bar (for 76/77) and on, according to specification , if it does the check when running, that you are seeing the same vacuum….if your are not check for vacuum leaks, IF the WUR is not responding to VAC changes, then take it apart, and rebuild it. If it's all tickety boo, move on to the next point, as there are a loads more things to look at!!.
  14. Ah if its the one inside the door, you probally dont need a new one. I have never needed to buy one!! Just clean it, and relubricate, making sure it locks and unlocks before you put the whole lock back in. Of course something could be broken, but more than likely seized. Frame and window out, and then you can get at it!
  15. It could also be any of the 3 above under the air box (thermostat, oil breather, oil pressure switch). As craigt said, brake clean, and determine if engine or gearbox oil. If engine then one of 4 leaks. Which can be a PITA to figure out, due to the injection in the way (i.e one leaking looks like from any of the top 3). If gearbox you can do the trans output shaft seal. I have learned over time not to hammer seal in, it does often damage them. I think last time i did one of those. I put the seal in the fridge, made a special tool, so when i tightened the guide tube, it pushed the new seal in, then a smear of 574 round the outside of the new seal, with oil on the shaft, and basically pushed it in, by tightening the guide. Left it overnight then operated the gearbox to see if leaked. You of course clean everything when you have the seal out etc. I would approach the RMS in a similar way. Again i have a special tool made so i can pull it in it through using the 6 or 9 flywheel bolt holes.

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