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Strictly

IB Supporter
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About Strictly

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newquay, Cornwall

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1979 911SC
  • Day Job?
    Engineer
  • Drive of your life
    my old sc, now that was a great car

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  1. Hi just to say for me can you shuffle me to the narrow body, its a standard 1979 SC....i presume that is Narrow Body, and a Widebody is for a turbo/930/935/super sport 3.2 or anything with wide back wheels? If im in the right place for a standard 79sc, then no worries! Thanks for organising it all Luke
  2. as above indeed, and it says porsche on the side of the belt which is nice (but they really do fit better), good tip on the torque wrench, i always use one on everything (engine/suspension) but never on the belt, i'll keep that in mind and try next time i do all belts such that if you can just twist it 90 degrees then it is tight enough, that said I always also start the engine, and rev it looking at the belt, if you see it "flap" then its not tight enough, and your alt bearings while whine if its over tight
  3. I had a few engines which were 35@5000 and 38@6000, thereafter I just timed at 5000 (35), as also a little chicken, there was defo still advance above 4000. I cant remember how much might have just been 1-3 degrees. I also experimented with 32 to 38 @ 6000, I cant remember what I preferred most, as that particular car is gone, but i dont think i always ran it at 38, probably choosing 35 for a bit of safety With vw engines (T1,T2,T4), i didn't used to bother with a RPM check, as they clearly maxed out around 3000-3500, and i would just rev it till the timing stayed still, then moved the di
  4. funny enough i have seen 5 or 6 shims mentioned in genuine porsche literature, which I have never gotten to the bottom of. I have always used 6, but i read 5 in an owners manual not that long ago and it was not the first time ive seen that.... I'll see if I still have it (I have a couple of manuals, plus loads of tech books). A good trick, is a tiny smear of grease on the shims on the outside so they stick to each other then you can put them in "as one", then when you tighten dont use the special pulley holder (yet), simply tighten the nut, turning the engine (which turns the pulley), ch
  5. dont forget to time at max advance (6000rpm), yeah its a little scary but from memory a vw golf gti was the same with no idle timing actually provided in the manual... In any case do it at max, or at 5000 if your chicken (and retard a few degrees). The purpose of it is to allow from some slack/wear in the dizzy (and of course to be sure its not over advanced!). The idle timing is really just a basic "initial" setting to be sure it will run, then max advance for the final timing, leaving it where ever it then rests at idle (i.e the slack/wear bit) P.s it sounds like you sorted your li
  6. green, then drive it, or drive it then paint them green "another time"
  7. if its not leaking, or burning oil, then stick with what's in it, especially as the engine was just rebuilt. I would (have used) anything from a 5/40, 10/40, 15/40, to 20/50 depending on the particular engine (all a/c 911's) and its general condition at the time.
  8. Enjoy, I still remember my first 911 (79 targa still owned by an IB member), addiction indeed, i've had 14 since. I love the SC personally, and yours is great colour! On the flat lid idea, first drive yours over 100 MPH, then remove just the rear whale tail (not the whole lid) and the front chin spoiler under the front valance and drive the exact test route again. Choose the handling of which you prefer from your test. For me in that particular test, I felt my SC defiantly felt more "squat" (pushed down on to the road) at high speeds, which I much preferred over the looks. Migh
  9. Hi Peter, Thanks for the tip. I do also use a mask with those clear shields! got a 79 too =P, good idea I will try and use a helment for grinding which has cheap interchangble clear lenses. with a bit of research it is looking like 3M offer a battery powered belt air blower systems in 3 versions (Adflo, Versaflo, and Jupiter). The jupiter/versaflo have quite a range of filters, and at least for the Jupiter can interface with their weld, "grind" or spray helmets, so it looks like the system I am after does exist! Ive not yet figured out the right system (adflo VS versaflo VS j
  10. I'm planning on getting an air fed (PAPR) mask, for mig-welding/grinding/general prep and paint (epoxy + 1K cellulose). I dont think there is one mask for all....but if so please share, or any recommendations for a good "system" where by I can use the same lithium ion belt pack with air feed/filters and then just change helmets....? If not they I will buy a system for welding/grinding and another for prep/paint. I wear glasses, so any anti-fog masks/helmets are a big plus. The 3m stuff looks great. I have worked on cars for 25 years, but my lungs are not what they used to be, and time to
  11. Nice work! I'm 100% down for a narrow body set, sounds like i also need to buy you more than a couple of beers if I ever get the chance in person.
  12. if you want to confirm its the master cylinder before fitting a new one, as before refit your old flexis, bleed through the callipers then clamp all the flexis off, if the pedal still sinks, bleed the master, then rebleed the calipers and re-clamp the flexis, and the pedel still sinks after that replace the master. If you have thrown your old flexis away, then either block off the lines, where the flexis attach and then bleed and check, or just fit a new master cylinder. I myself hate "just throwing parts" at something on a hunch, and will always diagnose a fault with a part before replac
  13. Ah for braided no i dont clamp What pressure did you use? 1 bar (15 psi) or less and you will be fine. Sounds like quite a bit of work; Check all lines of course (connections). One trick i have tried in the past, which worked a few times, was all bleed nipples closed, pump the brake pedal say 5 -10 times, then go and quickly open and close one bleed nipple, you may get a gush of air. Its worked for me where the i basically managed to push all the air to the nipple, but of course it could not get past it, until i quickly opened and closed it. If the servo is the only original bit, th
  14. before dremelling a nut (because you may trash the male thread underneath...), i would cut off the pipe at the nut, and put a socket on, lots of heat (will need a vice) and slowly work it back and forth and they should come off. You will need a new pipe if you do that, but you might be planning that anyway. If the nut is stubburn, i have carefully cut them each side but not through to the thread, it weakens them and then you may find then when you undo the the nut, that the nut itself breaks (a good thing), basically breaking away from the male thread which will be totally intact. Its worked f
  15. 10 pumps before bite, you must have air in them still, no idea about what happended to the front, unless extreme pumping has somehow manged to push out a sticky piston which is now siezed. I would clamp off 3 corners on the flexi pipe with an appropriate brake line clamp, then try your pedal, if its one pump and rock hard, then clamp that flexi on and try another corner, and keep going until you find the problem corners then rebleed. Ps you dont need to even touch the rear calipers to do the handbrake...you just adjust through the hole in the disk...then on the cables themselves.
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