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About Strictly

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    Hooked on IB

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  • Location
    Newquay, Cornwall

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  • Current 911
    1973 911T 2.4
  • Drive of your life
    my old sc, now that was a great car

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  1. The vacuum also controls the control fuel pressure between IDLE and WOT and back again, exactly the same as a throttle position control regular did mechanically on the early 73 to 76/77 911 CIS, its all in the books....The main point is the HOT Control Pressure which is governed by the WUR must change with XXXX vacuum applied, between say 3.0 bar and X.X bar (for 76/77) and on, according to specification , if it does the check when running, that you are seeing the same vacuum….if your are not check for vacuum leaks, IF the WUR is not responding to VAC changes, then take it apart, and rebuild it. If it's all tickety boo, move on to the next point, as there are a loads more things to look at!!.
  2. Ah if its the one inside the door, you probally dont need a new one. I have never needed to buy one!! Just clean it, and relubricate, making sure it locks and unlocks before you put the whole lock back in. Of course something could be broken, but more than likely seized. Frame and window out, and then you can get at it!
  3. It could also be any of the 3 above under the air box (thermostat, oil breather, oil pressure switch). As craigt said, brake clean, and determine if engine or gearbox oil. If engine then one of 4 leaks. Which can be a PITA to figure out, due to the injection in the way (i.e one leaking looks like from any of the top 3). If gearbox you can do the trans output shaft seal. I have learned over time not to hammer seal in, it does often damage them. I think last time i did one of those. I put the seal in the fridge, made a special tool, so when i tightened the guide tube, it pushed the new seal in, then a smear of 574 round the outside of the new seal, with oil on the shaft, and basically pushed it in, by tightening the guide. Left it overnight then operated the gearbox to see if leaked. You of course clean everything when you have the seal out etc. I would approach the RMS in a similar way. Again i have a special tool made so i can pull it in it through using the 6 or 9 flywheel bolt holes.
  4. Actually i didnt think your system pressure was low. Lowish yes, but the spec if 4.5 to 5.2 and the 4.5 you had is technically in spec!!! But even so, I would adjust it at the pressure regulator valve on the side of the FD, the o-rings can go and need replacing, but just for an adjustment, you simply change one of the copper washers for another one until its in the middle of 4.5 to 5.2 (i.e 4.85). The extra ones in the kit as you thought are just to get different pressures, only one copper shim. The gauge....yes you need to bleed it, you turn it upside down and squeeze the bleed thing if you have it, it will bleed out. You should do it once or twice. it should bleed to out a bit (a trickle is normal), and then jump straight back to where it was on the gauge. Make sure your CIS tester is connected correctly, valve on the LEFT, so when you turn the valve closed it can only show the system pressure, and when the valve is open it shows you the control pressure. I would rebleed for system or control, then when control is done and cold, plug the WUR in and just watch the gauge rise to what ever the hot control should be. Can you post your graphs for me, do both, the bentley and the porsche factory manual, you can download the factory manual from the link above.... The warm system pressure is a bit of a red herring. While it is weird....the fuel pressures are done with the engine off! so technically the warm for system is never measured, in fact i dont think i have ever measured it. Certainly you could be on to something, but as its not part of a normal diagnosis procedure (it is not in any of the manuals to do it this way), then ignore it and treat it for now as a red herring. The accumulator you can test, I cant remember but the procedure is in the book. I think (from memory) you disconnect the bottom pipe and basically see if any fuel comes out, and more than that I cant remember. Heres what you should do : 1) Forget about the Hot System pressure for now, do your tests with the engine off, and fuel pump hot wired, cold engine. Use the right shim to set your pressure to whatever the book says for your FD (post the picture), probally between 4.5 and 5.2, in that case go 4.85. Once that is set, test the rest pressure over 10, 20 and 30 minutes. Compare to specification. This is the cold system pressure, or just system pressure, and all we care about. Maybe we will end up full circle back to this for this mysterious hot system pressure.....but for now I would move on, as the books certainly dont do it this way. 2) Now Test your cold control and warm, again post the graphs and the results. One of the manuals you have to apply vacuum for it to work as per the graph hence why i said check both graphs, post a picture. Once you have the warm steady, suck on the vac connection for the WUR and watch i it change the warm control pressure. If it does not.....figure out why...Basically the engine vacuum changes in response to the throttle plate, which changes the fuel pressure at the WUR, when finished test the rest pressure over 10,20 and 30 minutes, compare to specification. Start with those tests, and post the results, with the information from the workshop manual, if all looks okay then move on....if not then fix this and try the car before the next steps..... Luke
  5. yes, plenty, isolate if its the door lock inside the door, then wd40 the hell out of the mechanism or remove the frame and pull the lock, and lubricate it. If its the lock, its just something mechanical and its an easy fix. The door will also hang is the b post latch is not correctly adjusted and shimmed. The correct alignment of the b post latch will normally conencide with a nice door closure sound and the top of the wing to door lined up, but that all depends if your door is correctly shimmed and lined up on the A post!
  6. A new washer and a smear of 574 on both sides of the washer if you have to, belts and braces. You could probally just jack the car up high on its side (be carefull now), and measure just the 1-2 litres you would lose, then top up the oil tank rather than a full change. most will be in the tank rather than the crankcase, unless its been sitting a while, and worked through the oil pump. I personally always use a torque wrench, i have all sizes and keep them calibrated. You can of course just feel you way, but i have to say for years I undertorqued the little 10mm sump nuts on my vw's only when I started using a torque wrench did i realise 10nm is a bit more!! Since then I always used a torque wrench. And of course everything has to be CLEAN, and FLAT
  7. it does come out, just pull and wiggle it, undo the breather pipe which is still connected, use some silicone spray or grease to slid the old rubber breather tube, the big one on and off. Thats it, the filler neck will come out thatway, you will have to twist a little, but it will come out. Be careful not to scratch your wing
  8. See two posts above first.... You do ALL of you fuel pressure tests with the engine OFF. You hotwire the fuel pump, first disconnect the heater for the WUR, so it stays "cold", then hot wire your fuel pump with the ignition on, but pulling the really and wiring 30 to 87a, NOW do the fuel pressure rest/residual test, compare the results to the book after 10, 20 and 30 minutes Now check your system pressure. NOW adjust your system pressure to be middle of the range. Now check your cold WUR pressure, now expeiment by sucking on the WUR vaccuum, you should see the fuel pressure change, if you look closely at the graphs in the manuals you will notice that some of these have a specific vacuum applied. Post your exact graphs and specs. If your cold spec is out, just note the problem and move on. Plug the wur heater in with the ignition on, and watch your pressure climb to 3 bar ish. Again test vaccum (pressure should change). Now test your "hot" WUR pressure for rest/residual loss, as before, after 10, 20 and 30 minutes. You can rebuild/reset the WUR for HOT and COLD I can explain how. Do the above and see how things are, after this move on to vaccum leaks, test your system with a cigar/smoke. I would then get your CO checked and your hydrocarbons checked. High hydrocarbons and low CO is typically bad ignition leads for example, which is why the overall procedure is compression then ignition then fuel system ===== But to answer your questions. System pressure should NOT change hot or cold. The pump can put out up to 12-15 bar. Pumps dont create pressure they create flow AGAINST a pressure. Pressure is created by the system itself, which the pump will provide a flow against. If you put a valve in the line, and you start to close the valve, you will see the pressure of the pump get up to 12-15 before you blow it. I have experimented with this!! I also used to be a porsche mechanic, but now do pumps for a living!! lol, seriously. So your 5 bar, is the system, if the system restriction was higher, then your would see a higher pressure from the pump. I have done all kinds of tests on the CIS and pressures. To answer your qustion on whether your cold pressure is high or low, this is only possible from the books. As the above post, post your workshop values/graphs, then you have something you need to set against. Luke
  9. Ok so following on from my previous post, a little more helpfull this time! Sorry was in a rush, and clearly got out of the wrong side of the bed too, in any case the "parts by subsitution method of diagnosis/problem solving" should always be changing one part at a time from a intermitant suspension problem to a permenant engine problem, or nothing is ever learned for future diagnosis! download the manuals with the specs, find exactly the one you need (WUR and FD part numbers and post) and then post these next to your fuel pressures above ....then we have some real information to compare against..... Great resource from Nige https://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/22341-pdf-manuals-download-all-ib-years/ from : Here is the current link : https://www.dropbox.com/s/33gi4678e0psmp3/Porsche%20Manuals.zip?dl=0 I'll answer some of your exact questions in a minute
  10. Indeed the secret, to any diagnosis, is one piece at a time, going back to your baseline was the right approach rather than just throwing parts at it. Especially all at once! Always always always always always always change 1 variable (I.e test or part substitution) ONLY at a time, and compare before and after then move on. I write that statement for anyone else reading that wants to learn the correct methodology for solving problems Download the workshop manuuals for the section of THIS forum, it has all the specs you need to be chasing. The WURS are completely rebuildiable yourself, I have done quite a few for both HOT and COLD if you diaphragm is good, if not you need a kit. I will re-read your fuel pressure specs/big post above tonight when I have more time, and comment some more
  11. I'm looking for a torque converter from a sportomatic, i know there are a few differences, I havent fully looked into it, but just let me know what you have (year, part number, condition and price) and I will look up the part numbers and see what fits. I can if necessary repair mine (weld ring gear back on), but if there is something around I will consider that first. Will need UK postage. My exact car is a 1974 911 2.7 I may buy other sportomatic parts as a job lot if the price is good Luke
  12. try turning your air bypass up, could also be your auxiliary air regulator, that would have some idle problems. So many things to check, but that is how it is. As Ivan says, the correct fault finding for any engine is Step 1) Verify Compression Step 2) Check and set up ignition Step 3) Check and set up fuel (carbs/injection) I once spent far too long on the injection of an SC engine with a hot start issue, only to finally conclude, that it was blowing at 3 cylinder heads! After that I have always stuck to the steps above, its okay to have a hunch and a few quick checks, but to properly fault find, its step 1,2,3. It sounds like an air leak, or running to lean/rich, or the WUR or the AAR, the only way to find out will be as above, then check fuel pressures, mixture and smoke test (cigar) the injection for air leaks. I would say on the injection alone has about about 10 to 15 things to check, so trying to solve it without a proper procedure will be a bit of a needle in a haystack
  13. ah gotcha, its been converted to carbs, that makes a lot more sense. Ok in that case as pre 73 (or 73 for RHD T); as mentioned above the plastic piece breaks.....it is also adjustable, you can set where it it on the throttle rod with a screwdriver to how you want it. Nice bit of cruise control lol. if its still on injection...in case i interpreted it wrong....then take some photos of the throttle body/micro switch if there is one
  14. The hand lever, was mostly on the early 911s on carbs, and stay fitted with the 73 to 76 CIS injection.....,I had a 78 SC (UK) that certainly did not have it, so unusual that yours does have it....what year/engine are we talking for your sc? I had both a 74 and a 75 with the microswitch, and know the early CIS quite well. Take a picture of your hand throttle and of your throttle body (see below)... First clarification for me, is to have a look in your engine bay, under the throttle body, see if there is a microswitch with two yellow wires going in and out of it. If so this microswich is directly connected to the cold start valve through the Thermo time switch.. IF SO this microswitch must be set, (this (both adjustments and setting as in the factory manual) followed by adjustment of the hand throttle lever. You can download the full manual, from another part of the IB forum. With the microswitch set correctly and the TTS working the CSV will only work with the engine cold and the handle up I would start there, then move on to the warm up regulator, if you dont have the microswitch. P.S with regard fennlanes comments to just live with it, that only applies if you dont have the skills, cash, knowledge or patience, otherwise get it fixed!
  15. interesting reading; I have used the 928 insert before and it worked well, but next time I will try 911 347 771 02 and do as above but not install the full bearing, unless it really needs it.
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