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angusb

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Profile Information

  • Location
    near Lanark

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    3.2 Carrera Coupe,1988
  • Lottery Car
    series 1 Land Rover
  • Favourite Food
    pasta
  • Drink?
    too much
  • Drive of your life
    the Miglia some day

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856 profile views
  1. Update ,sourced a new set of bearings from Matt, pleased they genuine quality SKF, although little surprised stamped made in Italy. Always though purely German concern. To remove the stub axle proved a problem, I initially tried drifting the end out with a large socket, it would not budge, so made a puller. After drilling and bolting one flat bar to the back of a old brake disc, ,the disc was fitted back to front. passing a length of M12 rod through the bar, and through a bar behind trailing, which was clamped to trailing arm. Turning a lagre nut under the bar of the disc outwards pulle
  2. There was not any slop in the bearing,I once clipped a pavement at speed on the same side, hence my suspicion about race. Will post some pics when get new bearings.
  3. Doing my rear wheel bearings at moment, one side clicks like a clock when spun.Not yet pulled stub axle,but suspect that the race is deformed, as the bearings rotate.
  4. If you mean will a Fan Belt Spanner fit the front shock absorber - not a chance. If your fan spanner is missing then would suggest try Matt (type 911) first. From memory , there are two special tools required for front shocks, fabricate a old socket with a piece of metal facing inwards,the width equal to the slot of the gap in the shock stud rod,this will prevent the the stud from turning whist the lock nut is slackened.The washer is just that ,despite shape, it is not designed to counter hold the the stud when undoing. The C hook spanner is used to remove the shock from the front
  5. angusb

    Tinware removal

    Full drop Roy, my engine is out for clutch anyway, so had access. As Leicester said get some heat on the bolts, also Matt has Normfest release oil which is business.
  6. angusb

    Tinware removal

    * edit without engine drop
  7. angusb

    Tinware removal

    On a 3.2 , the two front sections cannot be removed with a engine drop. The rear section can only be removed after the back box and the "air pipe" cannot remember proper name , the exhaust piece which connects to air fan pipe is removed. The drivers side front piece uses the same M6 nuts which connect to the Oil cooler, and the white fibreglass piece of ducting. Be gentle here. For reasons unknown this piece of tin ware seems to be the one which rusts. Mine are currently being powder coated
  8. No these won`t make any difference to suspension dive, these are only a placebo on cars where the track rod end is excessively low. To my knowledge SC/RS cars had raised spindles to properly cure bump steer.
  9. Thanks for all your comments, it is very much appreciated food for though.Map your car looks lovely.Am luck to have a couple of months window to search, will let you what end up with. regards Angus
  10. Hello, my daily hack has been given notice to go that not so great scrap yard in sky , as Vorsburg in its wisdom has fitted too many useless electronics. So Boxster, know that they are great, in my price range (ie very very cheap bottom of market) are they reliable as a drive to work vehicle? My commute is over a moorland road, in winter is brutal with ice,would Boxster be up to it? Also had a quick look at Mini Coopers , any thoughts? regards Angus
  11. Hello all, During engine gearbox separation,the stud on the gearbox casing which holds the "support" bracket to the heat exchanger backed out.was quite surprised that oil started to leak through stud hole. Has anyone encountered this before, or is there any knowledgeable fixes? regards Angus .
  12. "Is there any special tools I may need, maybe a sliding hammer? Also, if I do replace the clutch, it looks the the ring gear is on the clutch as opposed to the flywheel, is that correct? If so, can someone recommend a small heating torch of some kind? Would also be handy for anything seized anyway." What you are likely to need is Slide Hammer -on my car its a M6 attachment, thought believe others may use M8 10mm allen key -starter motor removal Clutch alignment tool-make or from type 911 Engine Cradle/ dollie for you trolley jack , second small jack to support gearbo
  13. 1. Don`t know 3.2 are different 2, No its not a bed in, Bentley does not inform correctly. Ivan (pro porsche)posted a reply how to do this properly, can`t recall exact thread. 3. The piston in the new caliper is too far in , preventing proper bleeding 4 Cause ditto 3. 5 Possible interference Accelerator rod with drive shaft
  14. In my case it was a missing shim, caused by me being so stupid as to let morons* work on my car. Would suggest if you have not already done so, check the length of the clutch slave cylinder , its under the pedal board and quite easily adjusted if need be.As the others have mentioned, there is a common issue with the original design of the fork,and release lever bearings.If you do need to drop the engine,would also check MaxDiesel design for engine cradle.This is under engine rebuilds
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