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  • Location
    near Lanark

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  • Current 911
    3.2 Carrera Coupe,1988
  • Lottery Car
    series 1 Land Rover
  • Favourite Food
  • Drink?
    too much
  • Drive of your life
    the Miglia some day

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  1. Hi guys, anyone know the part number for the small screws, which hold the 1/4 rear lower panel to the rear wing? I had a look on Pet but can`t see listed. The screws go into speed nuts, which sandwiches a runner trim piece between the rear wing to 1/4 panel. thanks Angus
  2. Hi guys caught this on youtube, lot of product placement but still of interest, though don`t like his idea of drill kidney.
  3. To me the fact that its Hunting , would suggest that a cylinder is not firing properly; start with the HT leads, then visually check the wiring to Speed/Top dead sensor running by NSR wheel.
  4. I have one similar , awaiting becoming a coffee table. To my knowledge the only way to remove wobble is to lathe the inside of the wheel,t rue ups but weakens........
  5. Update ,sourced a new set of bearings from Matt, pleased they genuine quality SKF, although little surprised stamped made in Italy. Always though purely German concern. To remove the stub axle proved a problem, I initially tried drifting the end out with a large socket, it would not budge, so made a puller. After drilling and bolting one flat bar to the back of a old brake disc, ,the disc was fitted back to front. passing a length of M12 rod through the bar, and through a bar behind trailing, which was clamped to trailing arm. Turning a lagre nut under the bar of the disc outwards pulled the stub axle off easily. Not surprising the race was stuck on the Stub axle, a quick job heating with a torch to remove. On paper the brake mounting plate should have been easy to remove, it was so gummed up with crud and electrolytic corrasion no amount of gentle taps would separate from arm. I should have known better, by the time it did lift , it was pancake shaped. For the other side will make a clamp and attach to sides, so can bang on clamp not the plate. To pull the bearing used a piece of tubing 80 mm ID , with a thick washer approx OD 70mm at rear, As ashamedly have seen some off roading, am going to make jig for trailing arms, using the rour bolts attaching brake mounting plate as a datum. regards Angus
  6. There was not any slop in the bearing,I once clipped a pavement at speed on the same side, hence my suspicion about race. Will post some pics when get new bearings.
  7. Doing my rear wheel bearings at moment, one side clicks like a clock when spun.Not yet pulled stub axle,but suspect that the race is deformed, as the bearings rotate.
  8. If you mean will a Fan Belt Spanner fit the front shock absorber - not a chance. If your fan spanner is missing then would suggest try Matt (type 911) first. From memory , there are two special tools required for front shocks, fabricate a old socket with a piece of metal facing inwards,the width equal to the slot of the gap in the shock stud rod,this will prevent the the stud from turning whist the lock nut is slackened.The washer is just that ,despite shape, it is not designed to counter hold the the stud when undoing. The C hook spanner is used to remove the shock from the front strut, you can either make one from a piece of flat bar, or search flea bay for suitable size generic.
  9. angusb

    Tinware removal

    Full drop Roy, my engine is out for clutch anyway, so had access. As Leicester said get some heat on the bolts, also Matt has Normfest release oil which is business.
  10. angusb

    Tinware removal

    * edit without engine drop
  11. angusb

    Tinware removal

    On a 3.2 , the two front sections cannot be removed with a engine drop. The rear section can only be removed after the back box and the "air pipe" cannot remember proper name , the exhaust piece which connects to air fan pipe is removed. The drivers side front piece uses the same M6 nuts which connect to the Oil cooler, and the white fibreglass piece of ducting. Be gentle here. For reasons unknown this piece of tin ware seems to be the one which rusts. Mine are currently being powder coated
  12. No these won`t make any difference to suspension dive, these are only a placebo on cars where the track rod end is excessively low. To my knowledge SC/RS cars had raised spindles to properly cure bump steer.
  13. Thanks for all your comments, it is very much appreciated food for though.Map your car looks lovely.Am luck to have a couple of months window to search, will let you what end up with. regards Angus
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