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Ciaran

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Everything posted by Ciaran

  1. Superb, thanks, downloading as I text. Ciaran
  2. Try tapping the petrol gauge clock in the car. Mine ran out of fuel a few months ago reading at about quarter full. I think the light was on but I didn't think much of it. I tapped the gauge and it dropped down. Might just be the gauge? Ciaran
  3. Thats a fantastic look. Really suits the vintage of the car. I intend to do the petals to mine at some stage too. Ciaran
  4. That's useful information. Thank you. I presume the 'knack' is pushing the reversing light switch back? Ciaran
  5. dominicd Its all completely standard. There is no problem now, as far as I know, although I may need to tweak the coupler adjustment a small bit, so I've left the hatch open and have a couple of 13 mm sockets with me. My fear is that something is loose in the gearbox, or that it may be come stuck in reverse again at an awkward time. Have you had gearboxes sticking in reverse as a result of fitting an aftermarket shifter? Did it cause anything to work loose in the gearbox, such as an indent? Ciaran
  6. Thanks for the posts, I have had some feedback from Pelican Parts. The part that it appears can come out of place is called an indent which is like a spring loaded elongated ball bearing which seems to keep the rods, etc in place. I have changed the coupler bushes and the cup under the gear lever in the hope that it won't happen again. I am still a bit concerned that something (an indent) in the gearbox may be actually loose though, and I don't know enough to know whether this can actually happen or not? There was nothing on the drain plug when the gearbox oil was changed. I would be grateful if anybody knows if these pieces can become loose in the gearbox, or if the worn bushes and resultant play could have caused the reverse gear to stick without any other issue in the gearbox. I think that if something like a fork or selector was damaged that I wouldn't be able to select all the gears. Since replacing the bushes, etc the 'box feels tighter but generally the same as before. All gears can be selected without difficulty. Although I don't really know. Again many thanks, Ciaran
  7. Hi, I was hoping someone could assist me. I have looked through a number of on line sources. I have a Carrera 3 MY77 and I was doing an oil change last weekend. Having changed the engine oil, and replaced the distributor, I put the car into reverse to back out of the garage. When I tried to put the car back into neutral the gear was still engaged. The position which felt more or less like neutral was still in reverse. It wouldn’t go into any other gear properly, and appeared to be like it was in two gears when it wasn’t in the neutral position. I checked the linkage and found one of the bushes on the coupling behind the seats was damaged. I temporarily fixed this but it wasn’t the issue. I changed the gear oil in case it would flush something out but no joy. I then checked online and found a reference to the reversing light pin which may be stuck out. I pushed the pin back which sorted the problem. This was a relief. My concern is that it may reoccur, at a time where the car isn’t over a pit. A post online had raised this before and suggested that play in the linkage can cause this issue. Has anyone here come across this issue before. I will be replacing the gearbox linkage bushes and cup before I use it but it would be good not to be living in fear of putting the car in reverse. Any thought would be appreciated. Also, could someone let me know if 75W90 fully synthetic transmission oil appropriate for the 915 ‘box? I hadn’t intended to change the oil so didn’t have any choice at the time. Many thanks, Ciaran
  8. The car looks really good, Bert. It's a credit to you. Ciaran
  9. I wondered that too. I had some correspondence with Phil Bell before he sold it. Phils Car was sold via email to some one in the south east of Ireland (Wicklow or Wexford I think). I think that it was subsequently completely restored and featured in the magazine after. I would have thought that the description would have included more information about Classic cars and the magazine article. I am open to correction though. Could explain the changed too though? Ciaran
  10. Rick, Check out this link http://www.911carrera3.co.uk/values.php for some good information. It is a Carrera 3 registry and website run by Carrera3man (Jack), one of the members of this forum. Ciaran
  11. Hi, Mine worked loose once resulting in the last one shearing off, taking off at a roundabout. I just replaced the one and refitted the others. No problem since. I used a small bit of threadlock. I understand that they sometimes work loose after a track day. Ciaran
  12. I eventually got around to dealing with the wipers issue. It appears to have been a loose bolt on the wiper motor itself, which must have allowed the spindle to go out of line, resulting in slipping at one point. Anyway, I tightened it up and it appears ok for now. The information which I found on the forum was very useful for accessing it. Thank you. Ciaran
  13. Lads, Thank you all for your help, much appreciated. I will give the suggestions a try starting with the easiest. Tea boy, If all else fails I will be in touch, thank you for letting me know. Regards, Ciaran
  14. Dr_Danger, Thank you for the suggestion. I hadn't considered this. I will give it a try. Fingers crossed. Ciaran
  15. The wipers on my Carrera 3 became quite lethargic some months ago, and would sometimes stop midway. I thought that it may be a lazy motor. It blew a fuse a while back which I replaced and I think that it worked after. I though that it may be from lack of use. There was a smell from the luggage compartment and behind the clocks. After some investigation I think that the smell was from the motor. The motor seems to be fine but the wipers get stuck in the vertical position. They will pass this point with assistance and will continue a full loop and get stuck here again. The motor is attempting to pass it and there is a grinding noise. It seems like it may be worn teeth on the gear. Could any one advise me if this seems likely or is there another likely fault? Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  16. Hi, I'm sure others will provide you with a list, but this may include, 993 head studs (dilavar?), 11 blade fan and uprated oil pump, which you may be doing as a matter of course. Ciaran
  17. Ciaran

    Body Parts

    Kieran, you can look at mine any time. I assume its the same, and I hope its as it should be. Ciaran
  18. Nice one Bert. Happy Christmas all. Ciaran
  19. Ciaran

    2.7 vs SC

    Jamie, If I understand correctly, some of the 2.7's in the states, like California, used thermal reactors to raise the temperature of the emission, to reduce levels. This, in turn, raised the operating temperature of the engine and this coupled with a five blade fan, and composite materials caused different expansion rates which resulted in head studs being pulled. I've read that engines with mileages like 50k, and less needing rebuilds as a result. I understand however that this problem was quite localised but caused more widespread concern, much of which was unnecessary. Others on this site, please feel free to correct me, this is just what I seem to recall from when I was doing some research some time back. Ciaran Jamie, If I understand correctly, some of the 2.7's in the states, like California, used thermal reactors to raise the temperature of the emission, to reduce levels. This, in turn, raised the operating temperature of the engine and this coupled with a five blade fan, and composite materials caused different expansion rates which resulted in head studs being pulled. I've read that engines with mileages like 50k, and less needing rebuilds as a result. I understand however that this problem was quite localised but caused more widespread concern, much of which was unnecessary. Please feel free to correct me, this is just what I seem to recall from when I was doing some research some time back. Ciaran
  20. I tried to find out my date of manufacture, to no avail. The documentation from Porsche indicated that it was built after it was registered. What I do know is that a car I had some information on has chassis no. 7600564 and was reg'd early jan 1977, my no. is 7600187, which is an earlier seq. no. but was reg'd on July 1st 1977., and was obviously built prior to Jan 77. I estimated Sept 1976 as my month of manufacture. You could ad a column for date of first reg? Ciaran
  21. Andy, It sounds a bit like mine when the coil went (which I understand is not a normal coil). I went to start the car and after much messing, including fuel checks, spark check etc, it started. I drove it for a hundred miles that day and it went fine. It let me down a while after that and I think that it was the same problem, except that it wouldn't start again. I eventually changed the coil (GSF) and not a problem since. Just my two cents. Its worth elimating as a fault, and no harm to have a spare if its not the problem. Ciaran
  22. Thanks for the advice. Much apprciated. I'll let ye know how I get on. Ciaran
  23. Hi David, Thank you for the response. My apologies for the initial post. I apprciate the advice. Unfortunately its the threads on the bottom of the oil tank itself are stripped. The thread on the bolt is fine. Do you know if the helicoil is a better option than to retap, and use an oversize plug? The drain valve sounds like a simple solution. Do you know who would supply these? Thank you again for the advice. Ciaran
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