Ciaran

Would a helicoil be a good solution to this or should I just tap it and use an larger sump nut?

Hello All, I serviced the car last night with success, but have put too much pressure on the oil cooler sump nut. The threads are stripped, although not badly. I reopened it and used PTFE to seal it. I am wondering if anyone else has had the same problem. I presume the solution is to tap it and source another sump nut. If anyone has any advice in this regard I would be grateful. Also, would it be unwise to use the car as it is. Its not leaking but I would be afraid in case the PTFE failed under the heat that these cars generate. Thank you in advance. Ciaran

Bert, My car has no servo, but is model year 77. Is this correct? It was early MY77 the seq. no. is 187 in the VIN. Ciaran

I have decals and intend to remove them. Bare Silver is a more classic look I think. Ciaran

Welcome. Ciaran

Went on my first track day in September this year in Mondello Park. Great fun.

I'd say on average I've been getting about 25mpg, including all sorts of driving, which by the way is about the same as my Saab 9-5 which should be getting about 30! Ciaran

Thank you for the info John. I'm going to do it when I get a chance. I reregistered it a while back. Its been going without fault since (touch wood, etc). PCI had a track day in Mondello today which I would like to have attended but work prevailed. On the upside I have used to for a few trips to our Kerry office which have been great. THis was taken in Ballyferriter two weeks ago.

Hello all, I am contemplating removing the carrera script from the side of my car, but am concerned in case the paint underneath looks less faded and show up after being removed. I think that they're on the car about 4-5 years. Does anyone have any experience with this, or any tips on the best way to remove them? Thank you, Ciaran

For what its worth, there was also an article in Classic Cars Magazine about 911s when Phil Bell sold his Carrera 3.0, although it wasn't very specific to Carrera 3.0s. I have it at home if anyone want the date, I think that it was about a year a go.

Hello Kristof, I have the chrome and carrera writing along the side of my own but I'm considering taking off the writing. There are some photos in my gallery. I like the clean lines of your car without the writing. Ciaran

Thank you for the replies. I don't think that it would be worth adapting the heat exchangers, and possibly loosing power. Ciaran

Just a quick question. Does anyone know if the heat exchangers, and/or exhaust box from a 3.2 Carrera fit a Carrera 3.0? Thank you in advance Ciaran

That clock very useful to know. My car reaches about 210 degrees quite easily in traffic in warm weather. The trombone gets hot at this stage. I presume that that temperate is ok. That picture of the clock is very useful. I presume it is applicable to cars here and not cars from the US which may run at higher temps. Maybe this is not a suitable check but I was going to check the reading on my clock by using a thermometer pointed at some specific location on the engine. Has anyone here done this and, if so, has anyone a reference temperature reading at some location ie clock reads 200, sump externally reads 190? This may be a completely inaccurate check, I don't know. Thanks. Ciaran

Jack, You're welcome. I like your website, alot of info there. Ciaran

John It is. I think that I sent that link to Carrera3man, or put it in a reply to an earlier post of his. Carrera3man, I have some pictures in my gallery on this site which you are free to use if you like. I intend to take some better ones, as admittedly these are not great shots. Ciaran

There were some very low mileage C3s for sale lately, maybe they're on the original engines?

me too

I had a similar problem last year. After driving about 50 miles I was edging forward to a small roundabout in a town when I hear a thump from under the car. The car then revved up. I pulled the key from the ignition. I tried it again but the same thing happended. I pushed the car off the roundabout, and discovered a drive shaft hanging down. A friend who lives nearby brough it to his barn on a car transporter. I returned the following day. 5 of the 6 bolts on the inside driveshaft, where it connects to the diff/gbox had worked loose. The last bolt sheared off. The drive shaft had shot up and hit the accelerator linkage and bent the rod, shortening it having the same affect as having your foot on the pedal. I straightened the linkage, bolted up the 5 complete bolts (with thread lock) and drove home and subsequently replace the last one with a standard s/s bolt. No problem so far since but haven't covered that many miles. I will look into the other options since reading this thread. Thanks.

Thanks Bert, By the way I saw an Australian Autotrader type magazine lately with two C3s for sale one said that it was one of 73 imported in to OZ, true or not I'm not sure. Ciaran

Thanks for the translation Bert. John, do you know how many on this forum have Carrera 3.0s?

I notice my car also got a mention (previous owners website). Don't know what it says though! Ciaran

Hi Bert, That seems the best way to go alright. I'm going to order the complete unit from Pelican Parts. I'm going to the states soon so can get it delivered there. Do you know is the part no. 93010701700m260 the correct one for mine? It costs abount 230 Euro from the site which seems pretty good. I'll then try fitting the insides from it to mine without risking the pipe damage, etc. I don't think that any of the garages around here would have the tools for it so I may have to make something. The car is going great all the time, although I've only been using it to keep it running fine but with the summer coming I don't want to risk it getting too hot. Hows JAZI going? Have you been using it through the winter? All the best Ciaran

Thank you for the replies, sorry for not getting back sooner. I was away for a few days. I think that I may be best to buy a complete theremostat and maybe try the inserts then. I haven't had a go at it yet but I am concerned about damaging the pipes. In a previous post I was advised about what to do to try to avoid it. I haven't built myself up enough to tackle it yet. I'll let ye know how I fare out when I get to try. Thank you for the help. Ciaran

SP72 Thank you for the reply. I think that these are to allow damaged theremostat housings to be reused, if they get damaged removing the old pipes. The parts that I am refering to are the moving parts in the thermostat housing itself (opening and closing). If these could be replaced it may mean that the whole unit could be left in place and could save removing the unit from the pipes, and may save the pipes. I haven't seen much in the way of reference to anyone using the replacement insides the stat. It would be the parts within this unit I was wondering about. Two parts of the unit screw off (probably with difficulty). The part number for the side one on pelican parts is 930-107-155-00-M322. It is a piston rather than an insert, sorry. Cheers, Ciaran