Flat 6

Ok, I'll have a look at that. Also have the sender from my '73 which is original VDO and seems to slide easily. Might fit that and note the difference.

Thanks Ian but I have already replaced my sender unit. My issue is that it doesn't seem to provide the gauge with the correct current so I am wondering if I can do something with the gauge to match it to the sender? Best, Al.

So, ran out of fuel last weekend even though my gauge was showing quarter full. Good job I was at home... I have a new sender unit. Is there any way of matching the gauge to sender unit so that it reads more accurately or do I just have to do the old motor thing and put up with knowing that quarter full on gauge = empty? Cheers, Al.

Well I don't think I have met anyone on here except Clive and Jon via Porsche Club Ireland. So I'd love to join something. Scotland would be the most accessible for me. Alternatively, I will be driving from Liverpool docks to Silverstone on Friday 30th for the Classic. Overnight ferry docks at 06:30 I think so it would be an early run to get us to Silverstone by mid-late morning, depending on breakfast and coffee stops. I'll be in a huge convoy of two with an 8:32 Thema. Anyone going to the Classic? I used to take the PCGB package and park infield but just going to leave the 911 in Woodlands this year and enjoy a beer or three. Anyone who wants to hook up for a beer just say the word! Al.

Yep, this pump. Didn't know there was a cheap danske alternative so good to know. My car is '83 so the headlamp wash is a separate pump. For the windscreen wash system the PET shows a t-piece with a return back to the tank and my car has that return pipe just sitting disconnected in the front compartment. Can't help thinking if I reinstall the t-piece and the return pipe that it will reduce pressure at the jets which are currently excellent. I realise now that the one-way valve I mentioned was part of the earlier SC setup. My last car was a '78. Cheers, Al.

Hey all, My windscreen washer pump appears to be knackered. Fitted a temporary replacement nicked from my series 3 landy but I was looking at the complicated setup in the PET and wondering why it needs the return to the tank? I have the t-pieces and one-way valve in my parts bin but at the moment my setup goes straight from tank through pump and on to jets with no return. Anyone know what the point of the return is? It would be easy to reinstate it if, for example, it kept water in the system and so prolonged the life of the pump? Can’t see how it would keep water in the system though. Presumably the return pipe is to allow water to return to tank if jets are blocked or pressure is too high? So valve would flow towards tank? While I’m here, the motor in my original pump is working so wondering if an impeller has separated or the like. Is it worth pulling apart to check? Is seem to recall original pumps are £60+… cheers, Al

Geez, them's grippy tyres!

Many thanks!

The wire coming out the rear of the middle blue fuse goes round under the catch panel and then stops with nothing on the end... looks to be sleeved in oem tubing. what might than be/have been. All lights, fans etc work as they should. Al

Morning all, I seem to recall a cover that you can now get that fits on to the back of the striker plate on the back of the b pillar inside the rear wheel arch. Matt, do you do these? Al.

Thought I’d have a go at a cleanup and paint of my heat exchangers before shelling out. Surface rust mainly but I’ve done a lot of tidying work under my SC so the heat exchangers were letting it down. The engine was rebuilt not that long ago so thankfully they came off OK, not helped by use of hex nuts on all studs rather than barrel nuts on the less accessible studs. Went at them hard with wire disk on grinder. Then a double cycle of my favourite rust converter Fertan. Then bit of a scuffing, two coats of aluminium zinc paint and two coats of high temp satin lacquer. Back on with the correct fittings and a nervous start of the key, following by biting of nails as temperatures rose. Bit of smoke initially as paint seemed to be degassing but thankfully no bubbling or burning off. I was worried because I’d had a bad experience before trying this on a mild steel back box. Above was a video but don’t see a way of doing that? Do we still have to link to external hosting for video? Anyway, chuffed to bits. I was going to nick the SSIs from my 2.4 which is in bits but no longer necessary! For some added excitement, here’s a random shot of some beautiful Billies just cos I’m also well pleased with these. cheers all, Al

Hey all, Are the silver metal parts in this kit simply to replace the anti-squeal shims? Looks like a completely different solution - anyone used these? Al.

It's been a while but I think there are several options for the front Billy inserts. Do you have the part number for the inserts you fitted? Apologies if this comes across as patronising, but might you have fitted a harder rated option? I put Billy inserts into my boge struts on an SC I had years ago and the ride quality was fine. My current SC is a UK Sport so billies all round and I'd describe the ride as fairly soft, at least by modern standards. Much less hassle if you can find a softer insert for what sound to be billy struts. Cheers, Al.

As I read it, they are already green but the boge strut is black. I'd scuff them well with scotchbrite, get some good quality black satin, paint with two fairly quick coats and fit. They'll always annoy you otherwise hence your question. Autoglym Black Satin is fabulous but dries very quickly so hold the can closer than you may normally. Then drive...of course.

You can now buy head torches with bluetooth apps to control brightness, beam pattern etc...