Chris T
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About Chris T
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I bought plain hardboard panels from southbound (refreshingly inexpensive) and sourced the foam, vinyl, handles etc elsewhere. Very easy DIY job.
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From Nige's photo, you may be able to spec a slightly over-width number plate to cover the holes, rules only state min font size/style I think. Or, perhaps a number plate mount/surround may just be wide enough..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/371769116712?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=371769116712&targetid=1002021776113&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=&campaignid=10195651178&mkgroupid=107296207892&rlsatarget=pla-1002021776113&abcId=1145987&merchantid=115146986&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwf39BRCCARIsALX
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You can always have the holes filled and bumper painted. Better still perhaps get rid completely in favour of smaller number plate lights perhaps like this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUMBER-PLATE-LIGHT-LAMP-FITS-IVOR-WILLIAMS-TRAILER/233422340687?epid=2099558940&hash=item36590e424f:g:g3sAAOSwGzhaIC0N Smaller LED ones are also available. Non original I know, but personally I've never cared about that too much...... Plenty of people on here have done similar.
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Is it not that the profile is correct but that the rubber strips either side are too short? Buy the Euro overriders and with the money you save buy a used Euro bumper and respray it. Yours like 90% of them will have corroded by now anyway...?
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Can't really tell from those photos. Post some better ones with the duck and we'll comment....
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I believe it's torque that kills a gearbox rather than HP. But as Beaky says, race cars had them. I think it's all about expectations of longevity. In a road car we expect 100,000 miles between rebuilds. In a race car it's hours. A well built 915 (with upgraded components) will probably last the kind of miles a classic gets to see these days, most folk do just a few 1000 miles annually.
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"Well these will be safe" Yeah? Same car 6 months later!
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Distributor tab broken!
Chris T replied to SurlySurdi's topic in Ignition System (not starter) and ECUs
Mark where rotor arm is, either as per manual turn engine until it's at the existing mark or with a marker pen just make a new mark wherever it is. Remove distributor and rotor arm will turn a bit due to it's angled teeth worm drive. Reassemble with this in mind so the rotor arm rotates back to the mark, may take a few goes but easy enough. Chris. -
Distributor tab broken!
Chris T replied to SurlySurdi's topic in Ignition System (not starter) and ECUs
Indeed, but not as simple as not removing it in the first place! -
Distributor tab broken!
Chris T replied to SurlySurdi's topic in Ignition System (not starter) and ECUs
Indeed, there is no option to rotate the distributor, the fixing hole is just a hole, not a slotted hole like an SC. But as I say, you do need to refit the distributor such that the rotor arm comes back to exactly where you left it (without rotating the engine). If there are 10 teeth (a guess) on it's drive gear, there are 9 wrong positions..... -
Distributor tab broken!
Chris T replied to SurlySurdi's topic in Ignition System (not starter) and ECUs
Surly, perhaps I can help. I have an old 3.2 distributor I'm not using. I do want to keep it, but I'll post you one of the tabs as a loan so you can make one. I stress I do want it back though! If that helps, PM me your address and I'll post it to you. Chris. -
Distributor tab broken!
Chris T replied to SurlySurdi's topic in Ignition System (not starter) and ECUs
Yes indeed, but unless you re-insert the distributor so the rotor arm ends up exactly where it was before or you loose timing, motronic can only compensate so much. Just easier to leave it in. Surly, can't believe you are contemplating a whole new (used) distributor, it should take somebody competent with the right tools about 10 minutes to knock a tab up. just my 2p, it's your money..... -
Distributor tab broken!
Chris T replied to SurlySurdi's topic in Ignition System (not starter) and ECUs
Don't remove the distributor unless you HAVE to, all too easy to loose ignition timing..... Should be accessible without, although I have backdated heating, original heating may make it harder. -
I watched first minute. What a wanker.
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I'll PM you. Cheers.