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Chris T

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About Chris T

  • Rank
    IB Glitterati

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cookham, Berks.
  • Interests
    Bike (pedal) racing, triathlon, windsurfing....

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    '82 SC targa + '84 3.2 wide body project
  • Daily Driver
    Audi A4 3.0TDI Quattro + CBR1000RR
  • Lottery Car
    Rude 930
  • Day Job?
    TV sound engineer
  • Favourite Food
    Cuzza
  • Drink?
    Yes!
  • Drive of your life
    I got a real buzz from a bike (motor) track day...

Recent Profile Visitors

1,478 profile views
  1. I've got two 'participant' (ie. taking a Porsche) tickets and hope to go. If for any reason I cannot I will of course post here.....
  2. Have fun fitting the oil return tubes! I properly gave myself spanner rash trying this a while ago. Trick if you didn't already know is to get two LARGE open ended spanners of suitable size, place a block of wood in-between them and squeeze your ends together, forcing the oil tube ends apart, expanding the tube into place. Make sure the wood doesn't slip out, mine did, OUCH!!
  3. Hi Matt, I'll take the idle valve please, PM me for payment details etc. Chris.
  4. Hi Chris. I've also got a no-start problem, but I have two sets of (old but cleaned) standard 3.2 injectors. I'm tempted to bite the bullet and buy these, which part number are they? (they have several 3.2l 1984 options) and while I've seen their price $62 did you get stung for import duty and a huge shipping bill? PM if you prefer. Thanks, Chris.
  5. I'd take the car to a couple of reputable bodyshops and let them look at it. Bare metal on any area where they are rust-prone makes obvious sense, as does glass out, but perhaps the man who is potentially doing the job can make a better call on necessity of a total bare metal job. In my experience they have an uncanny ability to spot flaws and see trouble even under the paint! Golden rule; NEVER tell them you are in no rush or to take their time!! Good luck.
  6. Ivan, you win! Nobody would have got that! Next quiz?
  7. I wouldn’t locktite the studs in, I’d put copper grease on them. When undoing them years from now you will have double the chance of not snapping the stud with two threads to potentially come loose.
  8. Yours must have been bad to be 'shot' the shaft normally just rusts up and makes the throttle linkage drag. Split pin and a washer are all that keep it on IIRC. Wipe down with wet and dry and a bit of grease, good to go.
  9. I did mine a while ago and 6 months later one of the brand new CV boots had split.... new ones really are rubbish! I re-booted them with motorsport versions from Raceparts in Wallingford. Not used in anger yet but obviously way higher quality than GKN replacements.
  10. Nice looking car, parked in Cookham moor car park with muddy wheels. Anybody here?
  11. I'm nowhere near the new Porsche market (and currently may never be) but Mark, I agree with you. right size/weight is important, and may I add BHP......
  12. No wonder it's not sold, your PM box is full!
  13. Chris T

    Cam Timing

    I agree with Peter, unless you were really ham-fisted you should be OK. Cams have a dot on the end, assuming you have standard or near standard cams and you re-aligned the dots to approximately where they were you should be a long way from piston/valve clash. When rebuilding my own engine I went through a similar thought process, turned out to be the starter ring gear TDC bolt (on a 3.2) touching the engine stand..... Check the simple stuff first! Good luck, Chris.
  14. Hi Phill, still up for one please, in black if possible 👍 Chris
  15. Hi David, I'll take the dist cap and leads etc and the valve tool. I don't need either but the HT lead's ends are good for re-making a new set, and the tool? May be useful, I'll figure it out and perhaps add it to the list of loanable items. Let me know a total incl. postage, I'll PM you now. Chris.

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