Chris T

Thanks Jevvy, I haven't (yet) gone beyond checking there are volts at the ICV, feel it buzzing with ignition on and thoroughly cleaning it twice. Currently I can't leave the driver's seat without it stalling....!

Hi Richard, thanks for your reply. Pre modifications on a standard ECU It always did surge a bit during warm-up but never enough to stall, say 500-1200 revs. When warm it stabilised as you say. Now it surges and dies at traffic lights, roundabouts etc etc when fully warm, making it very tricky to drive! Indeed during warm-up it surges but rarely dies, it gets worse when hot. I have tried raising the 'target idle speed' in the closed loop idle ie. when warm from 850 to 900 or 1000 but with no apparent difference, it still surges between 1300 and stalling.... Chris.

Wingnonut, thanks for your thoughts, however with the laptop connected to the ECU I can see when the idle and WOT switches are activated. I know the throttle plate is set correctly, so when the idle switch is active I know the throttle has fully returned and the idle is under the ECU's control. Hi Matt, thanks for your reply. I suggested a RR as it was leaking so much air it would continue to run while my hand was covering the air inlet to the AFM! Last RR session set the fuel/air ratio with this air leak, meaning it will now be too rich at least in the lower rev ranges, not just at idle, although just setting it at idle will at least make the car drivable. I do indeed have a lambda bung in my SSIs but I know it has 'welded' itself in and will take some removal! I'm glad I'm not the only person finding it tricky to set the idle with a Canems ECU. I'd love to see your settings for fuel and ignition, perhaps it could give me an idea how to 'tweak' mine a bit for a steady idle at least. Chris.

Hi Paul, no. But as I say the whole system is no longer controlled by the Bosch ECU but by an aftermarket Canems ECU which relies upon the ICV to control idle. But, I take your point and I'll do it again tomorrow and disable the closed loop idle control, set the bypass valve to try to stabilise the idle and re-enable the closed loop..... I suspect another rolling road session will be the answer in the long run sadly. Chris.

Hi Guys, perhaps tough to answer as my car is so far from standard (964 inlet, bored throttle, cams etc etc.) but is there a known culprit for making the idle on a 3.2 surge up/down? Mine revs up but frequently dies as the revs drop, wether hot or cold, making it very hard to drive. I have a Canems ECU and I have tried altering EVERY possible idle control parameter (and there are lots!), still does it, so is there an underlying reason that can cause this? I'm thinking too lean/rich? Air leak? I've cleaned out the idle valve a couple of times, so I'm convinced it's not that. Thanks, Chris.

All speakers no matter how tiny require being in a sealed box or else the sound coming off the back largely cancels the sound from the front as it's out of phase. This is most heard in the bass frequencies where the sound is more omnidirectional. ie. tinny little speakers will sound even more so when not in a sealed box. Chris.

Alex, I have a pair of 'Ultimate ears' Wonderboom bluetooth speakers. Deeply impressive for their size, so perhaps the larger 'Megaboom 3' model mounted against the bulkhead forward of the gearstick? They are USB chargeable so you could arrange a switched supply to charge it although it's only audio input is bluetooth, so you would have to pair it with the head unit and your phone. For even more discrete location, try same place but higher up behind the ashtray. Chris.

Stone or similar trapped between brake disc and the metal shield/plate behind it?

a leather gearstick gaiter is never right, except on my grandpa's Allegro Vanden Plas...... 😉

I thought leather gearstick gaiters were banned from this site no?

Not on a 3.2 he wasn't......

Richard, I thank you for all your hard work thus far, but I'm going to have to ask you to remove my name from the list please. Cost is an issue, but so is time, I already have a 'big holiday' planned post Tokyo 2020, and although I'd love to take my 911 to the Alps, my favoured region would be the one I know very well in the French ski areas of the 3 valleys/Val D'Isere etc. I already know some of the roads well, I already know some friends down there and I'm keen to drive the D911! I'm sure you will all have a fantastic trip! Chris.

This sounds a lot like my SC's starting issues. It either starts on the first cylinder or cranks and cranks without firing. I have (I think) traced it to the starter solenoid. Yellow wire from ignition switch when on 'start' fires the solenoid to turn the engine but another output of the solenoid sends volts Via the thermoswitch to the plenum injector to start the engine, after that airflow lifts the CIS plate and the car runs. In my car, no voltage ever reaches the thermoswitch so I assume the solenoid is faulty or the wire is broken, no time so far to check it out....!! I think that is my issue, maybe yours? Chris.

Done the same as Phil with my SC except the bumper rubbers were knack’d and expensive so they got replaced with wide black tape! A local metal shop stripped and welded up the holes in my bumper. Surprisingly expensive as I recall but I’d never go back..... Chris

Also interested depending upon dates.....