Chris T
-
Content Count
1,520 -
Joined
-
Last visited
.png.d4f4738b36ac8d1630ddd5b26409440c.png)
-
I used to have a set of Cobra RS seats. I found them comfy (although I never did a long distance in them) but they offered little to stop you sliding sideways, so I swapped them for RSRs. Standard sport seats are still the business though IMHO so perhaps if driver side doesn't need to slide, just dispense with sliders and bolt in place using a sheet of steel or similar (Jason at Stuttgart classica can sell you a pre-drilled still sheet) and immediately you drop 2-3cm and while the seat doesn't slide, it still tilts. Chris.
-
😉
-
Hi SP I’ll take the other if still available. Very handy. PM payment details. Chris
-
22mm fittings will indeed fit but I’m not sure how successful they will be on a bend where the leak is. If a soldier repair fails, perhaps cut a section out and replace with a pre shaped section with a join at either end. Plumbers are good at that stuff....
-
Why not at least try to repair it in situ? Pipes are brass so should solder/braze. Worst case is that it fails and you are back to where you were with a tiny weep....
-
Chris, I’m not in the market but if I was 19 again......
-
Done this job a few times..... new CV boots are rubbish, consider race parts low speed motorsport alternatives. Use a long bar of some sort to hold wheel studs whilst undoing bolts (air tools help here) and drop whole CV driveshaft CV assembly. If not awful you can swap L-R but easy to replace all 4 CVs Fill with new grease and then wipe outer surface with brake cleaner and stick on new gasket before joining it all up. not a fun job, sorry..
-
I THINK so..... If you have boxter callipers up front you are good to go as-is 3.2 rears simply have thicker discs for better heat dissipation, same braking surface/force as a 3.2 plus you already do not have remove the bias valve that an SC doesn't have!
-
SC - 20mm thick discs 3.2 - 24mm thick. Don't bother. Up front maybe, but rear not worth it unless you are really going to push the car on track. My 2p
-
I don't suppose he spent anything on it, whole thing was an advert for Rasant! I would nevertheless like to see the follow-up 'post' video.
-
Would love to watch this, but it just will not play for me..... What am I doing wrong?
-
Probably worth some release fluid on the bolts that hold the side bits to the engine heads (cam carriers, between upper and lower cam covers) they CAN shear off.... Good luck. Chris.
-
Exhaust system for standard 3.2
Chris T replied to Roy M's topic in Exhaust System and Cabin Air/Heating
As Mark says, SSIs may not be ideal on a 3.2, a bigger diameter would be better, however they are still an improvement on standard of a handful of BHPs. (10-20?) They do sound good and being stainless you won't have to do the job again ever. Matt sells a complete kit, spendy but a one-off. You could also get a bit back by selling your old pre and main silencers. -
If you genuinely have no requirement for heat why not? Makes access to under engine oily bits easier too, plus you should be able to sell your SSIs for most/all of what they will cost you (without researching, I'm sure cheaper alternative headers are available). But, if you are building a hard core no-heat car, why stop at 964 cams? They are quite mild and a 3.2 engine can take more cam happily. RB may have pioneered them but 993SS cams have been used by many here and according to Doherty (of racing cams.com fame) still allow a 3.2 to tick over more or less as normal, so if you are prepared to
-
Rear and side bits are easy enough. Two pieces on rear of engine where gearbox mounts are do-able but fiddley. Easier with H/Es off for access I'd say.
