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ajd

Gruppe IB
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About ajd

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nr Bath

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1985 911 3.2 Carrera Sport - GP White
  • Daily Driver
    is the 911. Also 1991 T4 Westfalia for camping.

Recent Profile Visitors

691 profile views
  1. This is the mount I came up. I’ve got a USB that runs off 12v now so can get around using the usb on the headunit. First version was for phone in portrait, but there is not really room to mount a phone here that way and I kept catching my knuckles when selecting 3rd and it was a bit wobbly, so I’m going to make it landscape. Landscape OK for maps but a bit of a pain for portrait only apps but hey ho. Needs more work but with this concept I should be able to make it really rigid as I hate floppy phone mounts. I was going to put it around a dial originally but space seems too tight for an iphone XR and I think it would still be too floppy, as I want to include a wireless charging mount. (picture is upside down - I plan to simplify the design - it clamps on in four places, not to the actual ashtray but to the ashtray frame; part of the dash which is very rigid).
  2. That could be an issue, not sure I'd trust a pedal even made of pretty thick printed PLA. You wouldn't want a big lump of plastic breaking and maybe getting under the middle pedal.... I'm about to print a 3D clamp for a e-bike battery for a conversion kit I got for my old mountain bike. I have similar fears over strength for this (the battery is very heavy) though of course the consequences of a breakage - whilst annoying - will be less severe on a bike.
  3. I made something 3D printed like this a few weeks back - after trying to fit inside the ashtray that didn't work so I worked out one that actually clips onto the rails that go front to back along the sides the ashtray and allows a phone mount to come up from under the ashtray. I'll have to take some photos, I made it to install one of those cheap £11 wireless charging mounts that charge via USB and have motorised clamping action. This plugged into my headunit but frustratingly I need to find a different USB supply as the headunit gets confused thinking the USB is music (when it is only power). I normally use bluetooth but the headunit ignores bluetooth as there is something in the USB......arrgghh! - this annoyed me so much I gave up on it, but this has reminded me the 3D mount bit was actually OK......
  4. That is partly my thinking - if it is choice of a) not using/having practical use of a 911 at all and just having a modern e vehicle, or b) having an e911 (and an e vehicle) my feeling is a why not have an e911 too?
  5. Just noticed my oil pressure gauge stays at 5 when running (doesn’t fluctuate with revs at all like they usually do) - is this a loose connection to sender/duff sender symptom? Gauge is on zero with ignition off, then fixed at max (5) with ignition on but does not move at all. Quick google suggests the senders can be tricky (and risky?) to remove. Any advice welcome! Cheers 1985. 3.2
  6. I could see me doing it perhaps before 2030, who knows. The sound is important but reckon they’ll be a solution for that too. You can already buy good noises for teslas. Could be totally wrong by 2030 the tech could cost under £10k, 0-60 easily under 5 and 300 miles on a wireless under car charger in your garage, quickly too. Petrol & tax could be astronomical, forcing a change. The conversions on youtube that keep the 5 speed box and mount to it don’t even look that difficult/complex. I won’t be an earlier adopter though, it’ll have to be a well trodden path with reasonable costs before I consider it.
  7. Yes thanks - rec'd paypal, it's printed & wrapped - just need to get to the PO next week,
  8. Nice. I now want an SSE cab with flat lid. More pics would be welcome but might make my "want" worse!
  9. Hi Mark Deleted a few messages but email me your address etc. on sparestuff71@hotmail.com I've just finally got around to printing one for me - but you can have it & glad you want black as I'm now bored of painting them! All main requests seem now fulfilled, but drop me a line on the email above if anyone else wants one. The novelty of making them has worn off but happy to print the odd one occasionally! Cheers James
  10. ajd

    Famous IBers

    34 years ago for me too. Still have an 1990 Electric Rock hanging in the garage. Had not done it for years, but tried it again once last year and trying to start again now. Old boards are making a bit of a retro come back - I sourced a 1992 Mega Cat last year which is 13kg of super light carbon sandwich construction and I also sourced some awesome old Neil Pryde RS Racing kit. All a bit old but this stuff is now very cheap! I know new kit has come on lots but it is so expensive. There is an old school windsurfing group on facebook which is well worth joining - lots of fluo colours from the 80s and videos from the Dunkerbeck era. I did find a link and I think Robbie's "turbo" is actually a 75/76 N/A car with flachbau / wide arch conversion.
  11. Yes please. This one is 100mm - I’m guessing a real one is about 90mm. I guess there was only ever 2.7 on an IB from 74 to when the SC came in from which point there were no more grill badges in anything? There was never a 3.0 badge even on the wide RS from that era?
  12. Fits OK, does it look a bit big and possibly in the wrong place? (didn’t spend any time sanding it so is a bit rough finish). In hindsight I think I prefer it without but might try and see if a smaller one looks better. Did any IB cars ever have these badges? I realise the 3.2 never had them.
  13. On mine you can play with the thickness a bit - 0.12mm seems the smallest I can go to but takes ages, default / standard is about 0.2mm and 0.28mm is fastest. I do find it a bit risky to print small items - anything under 3mm (like a small pin item) in size can deform but maybe my settings are not right. I've tried the supports for some things and it is quite clever the way it pulls away from the part but can still leave some sign - do you find it leaves any marks? I do find PLA does not lend itself to sanding - it's possible but it doesn't exactly like it! I did buy some some ABS by mistake and my that is hard to print - have given up on it really - needs to be hotter 240C and with controlled cooling - fascinating how if it is not hot enough it just delaminates or doesn't stick and you end up with a fibrous mess. Just shows how forgiving & easy to use PLA is even for big parts. Shame as I expect if you can get it right ABS is a much better material.
  14. The The first smaller one I printed in one go, but : a) easier to print in two parts to paint the numbers silver and the backing black (I know that is not quite right but saves on any faff masking etc.). - then just superglue together, b) it is best to ensure the starting surface is flat and whilst you can print overhangs they either have to be small or at an angle. You might have noticed on the funnel that the upper funnel part is about the shallowest overhang you'd want and you can see how the this starts to look "on the limit" for printing (the funnel started from the oil filler neck being end being printed on the base). For the badge, it would not be possible to start printing the 3.2 and the go into the base as an overhang - you could try but the surface finish would be poor and would likely fail I suspect. It's really not a faff to superglue the parts and it can make the process easier - I actually went this way for the painting reason but then twigged it made the bolt bit easier too. It is fun to do as you learn better ways to make things as you go and it turns usual ideas about simplifying production on it's head. Printer is Ender 3 Pro. CAD software is just tinkercad (free) which is for kids really but is powerful enough and has got some new shapes recently. This makes the 3D stl files. The slicer software takes the stl files and is called "ultamaker cura" (free) - this makes the gcode files that you stick on a memory card and put in the printer. The gcode sets up the way the printer builds up the model, including filament thickness, layering height, infill structure, temp of print head and bed etc. The software has defaults for the enders printer that I haven't needed to play with. It is very easy and lots of youtube vids - only tricky bit I found is levelling the bed - it's manual on a Ender 3 Pro. You need to get this right or you can end up with a big mess! Not a problem once you get the hang - once the first layers stick to the bed you're away really.

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