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About TimNiceBut

  • Rank
    IB Addict

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Profile Information

  • Location
    was Ashford, Kent, UK, now Berkeley Springs, WV USA

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    1989 Carrera 3.2 Cabriolet
  • Daily Driver
    '94 BMW 525i, '90 Mazda MX5
  • Lottery Car
  • Most-played albums in your iPod/CD Changer
    Patricia Vonne - Guitars & Castanets
  • Day Job?
    Computer consultant/programmer
  • Drink?
    A good glass of wine
  • Drive of your life
    California Hwy1 in a Shelby Mustang

Recent Profile Visitors

377 profile views
  1. I'm finally getting around to start working on my garage ornament '89 Cabriolet that I bought in January. First job is to address the various rattles, tuneup issues and other assorted running annoyances. Re the rattles - the car has been converted to a (3.0?) SSIs, 2 in 2 out muffler and most of the emissions equipment has been removed by a shop that seems to thrive on almost good enough work. Yay. It's also an a/c car with somewhat more complicated ducting. Anyway, the up pipe into the top of the engine bay doesn't seem to fit into the rubber boot on the topside (too small - see photo) and rests on the exhaust underneath. I guess that's part of the rattles. The above is with the jubilee clip on the rubber boot completely tight, so it's clearly not the right diameter. The diameter on the upper part of the J pipe is stepped up, but not enough. Is this just a matter of going to an exhaust place and get them to bend me a new piece and widen the top to the correct diameter, or is there a nicer/neater way of making this adapter? The heater ducting already has a T-piece in a different place so this is really just a 90-ish degree bend. And yes, unfortunately it looks like this splendid work is indicative of the quality of work/mods on this car. Not that I had any delusions otherwise.
  2. Thanks - let's hope that's the issue, because that would be a relatively simple fix. It's also been marking its territory a bit more than I'd like it to. Especially as the leak seems to be right next to the left exhaust manifold. I'm hoping it's something simple like a valve cover but I won't have time to crawl underneath the car for a few weeks. Not that it's going anywhere with the amount of salt they're chucking on the roads out here at the moment.
  3. Thanks! Slippery slope indeed. I'm hoping I chose wisely - the car does need some help but I think it's mostly DIYable for me. Especially as I'm not in a rush. I do have a bit of a "well, that escalated quickly" history with 911s, though. Thanks! The cups have one advantage, namely better tyre selection. It's getting harder/more expensive to find tyres in smaller sizes over here, but fortunately the tyres for 16" Fuchs are readily available, especially if I ignore the "Porsche approved/N" part ;). That said, this car is very unlikely to go out in winter. We now live near the southern end of the "salt belt" out here where they chuck a lot of salt on the road. Given that I have yet to find a spec of rust on the body of this cab (it's a California/Nevada car that recently relocated over here) I'll try to keep it that way.
  4. It's been a while since I did more than peek in here, but after selling my last 3.2 in the UK in 2010 and a detour via a 996 Cabriolet that gave its life protecting me (OK, a bit of pathos, I got run off the road by an arctic right into a nice concrete barrier - car ended up written off, but I escaped without a scratch) I thought I was done with 911s. My ownership experience with both my old C3.2 and the 996 had been anything but cheap - the words "money pits" came to mind - and I thought I'd get something sensible like a Honda instead. Well, like a first generation Honda (Acura) NSX. Then we moved across the country to the East Coast, a friend of ours showed us some pictures and told us a bit of a story. A friend of theirs had bought an aircooled 911 over a decade ago as he had always wanted one. He passed away last year and the widow was looking for a good home for the car - they had lots of happy memories in the car, but keeping it was a little much for her. So I went and looked at it, trying to find a polite reason not to buy it. Unfortunately as it became somewhat obvious quickly, I was the first person to look at the car who wasn't after a quick buck, and I knew what I was looking at. Well, at least I managed to make it look like I was. The only objection I could really field was that the asking price I thought I had heard being thrown around wouldn't make it work financially for me. Only that it was the "that's how much I'm asking from a flipper, you get the friends & family discount". So there went that plan and I had run out of reasons to say no. Which means that since yesterday, this thing has been parked in our garage - it's a 1989 Cabriolet with about 113k on the clock. The interior needs a bunch of help (typical California car interior damage), the roof needs a little upholstery work, it has an unexplained battery drain just like my last C3.2, needs a good service, spring plate bushings, a shifter rebuild and most likely intake gaskets. On the positive side, the body looks straight and rust free from what I can tell. And I did spend quite some time poking around the usual problematic areas. It has had a respray that's OK driver quality, but it needs some touching up and thanks some primer showing through on the passenger door, the passenger side probably needs more paint. Oh, and I already have a set of 16" Fuchs on the way.
  5. That should be the door latch, not the door lock.
  6. So things have been moving along slowly, but I finally managed to get my behind down to the car again yesterday to crawl underneath it properly to check for rust issues etc. Of course that had to coincide with major snowstorm around here but hey... The underside of the car is almost clean enough to eat off, if I'm willing to ignore the overspray from an older repaint. Yes, I knew that the car had been repainted. After talking to the owner again it looks like I misunderstood her asking price and it's in the I'd kick myself if I didn't buy it for that sort of money. Let's see how it works out, but I should be able to conclude the deal next week. It does need a few more things - looks like the passenger door lock needs a bit of adjusting, and it needs a really good service, too. The roof needs one of the tensioner? straps looking at and again, some lubrication wouldn't go amiss, but I should be able to get most of that done by the time they stop throwing salt on the roads around here.
  7. Thanks - my first thoughts when driving the car was "gearbox feels like a 915" as I remembered my G50 being somewhat slicker. I did check the shift pattern though to make sure it's not a 915 . It somehow just felt like the syncros were very slow when the box was cold. Once warmed up, the box felt smooth when shifting deliberately, just a bit vague and with very long throws. And yes, I know better than trying to rip through the gears on these boxes. I think the shifter needs a rebuild, which isn't a big deal, but I'm not convinced that the box doesn't need additional help.
  8. It's been a good eight years since I've driven, let alone owned an IB so my memory of what a G50-equipped 911 should drive like it a little fuzzy to put it mildly. Anyway, the car in question is a slightly modded Cabriolet (Cup 1 wheels - oh well, AutoAuthority MAF conversion with cone filter - hrmph, Dansk or Dansk copy dual exit muffler, 930 valve covers) that appears to be mostly rust free but suffering from the usual California car issues like dead seat leather (driver's seat needs to be redone, passenger seat not far behind). Needs spring plate bushings, some electrical issues addressed and the electric mirrors fixed. 129k on the clock, allegedly had the engine rebuilt before the current owner bought the car about 11 years ago but no paperwork found detailing the engine rebuild, the owner is deceased and neither the widow nor the friend helping to sell the car has found any paperwork to show details about the rebuild. I drove it and it drove OK, although I noticed a certain reluctance to rev cleanly between 2000-2300rpm (occasional backfires). I also noticed that the G50 shifted a bit "scratchy" until it warmed up. Shift quality improved massively once the drive train had warmed up. I can't remember if that's normal for a G50 or not? It certainly felt like a transmission service would be helpful, and I also noticed that the shift lever doesn't appear to self centre (but the again, I can't remember if the G50 does that or not). I think the widow of the owner is asking a realistic price, but the last thing I need is another needy 911 right now, so I'm in two minds if I should pursue this further or not. On one hand, it needs work, on the other hand it's already modded slightly so I can treat it like a blank canvas.
  9. If you're going via Lake Tahoe, make the detour and have a look at the National Automobile Museum in Reno, provided that they're open again after the arson attack last night or the night before. They're saying they should be open again next week, so hopefully you're good. The museum started out as Bill Harrah's personal collection and has grown (a lot) since. Well worth the few hours you'll spend there. I'm assuming you're taking 395 from Lake Tahoe to Yosemite (via Tioga Pass), if so, I find Bodie worth a stop if you're not in too much of a hurry, and also Mono Lake. Heck, you're driving right past that one anyway. No idea where to hire an old convertible, there are/were a couple of specialist car hire places in San Francisco but they were very expensive with restricted mileage. And TBH, in August out here you'll be mostly driving with the aircon on and the roof up anyway. It looks like we're going to have a really hot summer this year. For driving up from SF to Lake Tahoe, avoid I-80 - it's faster, but both US 50 and CA 88/89 are much more scenic. My personal preference if I'm not just rushing home from Ikea in Sacramento is to take 88 as there tends to be less traffic, but it'll take something like 1/2h-1h longer than US50. 50 is nice, just don't drive it on Friday or Saturday if you can avoid it.
  10. Yes, it looks like the 3.4 conversion kit from the parts list, at least for the latest car I've seen: http://www.velocityporsches.com/porsche_coupe_1986.html
  11. All good points. From my perspective I eventually sold the Targa a couple of years after leaving the UK (now residing with TiredOldHack, who appears to be doing a fine job looking after it). With that car I know what I had, but it wasn't such a good idea to take a RHD car to the US and I had trouble insuring it in the UK. For my sins I now get to look at a processing of overpriced and overdescribed heaps that "just need a little TLC" so I can start the IB ownership from scratch again. Rust isn't generally that much of a problem out here but I've still seen some cars in "interesting" condition.
  12. Store it - you know what you've done to the car and it's not going to be easy to find another one in that condition.
  13. I've come across a couple of cars (usually C3.2s) over here in the US that were advertised as "Ruf"s with a 3.4L N/A engine and usually some additional tweaks like exhaust, "Ruf chip" and a Ruf rev counter. They don't appear to have any noticeable body modifications or even Ruf wheels most of the time. My Google-fu appears to be deserting me as all I seem to be able to find is information about the BTRs and CTRs of that period. Does anybody know what the deal is with these?
  14. Another vote for "buy the best condition car for the money that you can find". You can always punch out the 3.0 to a bit more displacement or drop a 3.2 or 3.6 into it provided there is enough metal left to bolt it to. Hence, buy the best shell you can get and worry about the running gear later.
  15. I used Oakbridge International for my bikes, but they transport cars as well. I think we may have a slight misunderstanding here - I personally prefer to look at a car first and then decide if I want to shell out for a PPI or not. No point in paying for a PPI an then find that you don't like the car that much anyway. No, the (customs) broker only deals with getting your container and its contents into the country and makes sure it's done legally.
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