topcarrera

Thanks Lewis - I'll just go for it ...........

The clutch Omega spring on my car went ping yesterday. Have managed to disassemble clutch lever assembly and remove old spring from pin in main arm. Have ordered new spring which should be with me this week. Before I attempt to fit back together can anyone who has done this job advise whether it is feasible to fit spring into position without special tools or techniques. The various manuals etc. simply say to force end of spring over locating peg using large screwdriver or pry-bar. Bearing in mind I'll be doing this working under car on jack stands not fully in the air will I need superhuman strength or ? Any help/advice much appreciated .......

Thanks Chris - that was my initial thought and have just looked at pics online to confirm - not quite sure how clutch still seems to be operative. Failure seems very odd ........

Gently moving car forward under power in garage and as I came to rest, engine still ticking over I heard a loud "ping" from rear of car. Looked underneath and found this on garage floor under centre line of car near transmission end. Car now runs fine, engages gear, clutch works, handbrake OK etc .. Whatever it is has obviously failed, see fracture face at non hooked end. Before I investigate further can anyone help me identify what this is??????

Can't help with pricing I'm afraid, everything seems to have moved upwards significantly in last couple of years so will let others offer advice ......... Great to see you back on here again, do you still have your IB?

Thanks Jevvy - so what if ? Is a bit of play (how much) OK or should I be thinking about repairing the spindle? I will pull hub off and have a measure. What is process of correction, presumably hard weld rebuild and grind back?

Thanks Jevvy & Vincent The play albeit only at 12/6 rather than 9/3 definitely goes if I tighten beyond the point of washer movement so this would suggest something related to the bearing? Was wondering whether taper shaft has worn so that it is out of round (hope not) ? Will try the brake pedal test

So, for the last couple of years I have always had an MOT advisory regarding slight play in front RHS wheel bearing. Have checked play a few days ago (front of car raised) and noticed quite a bit of movement in 6 / 12 o'clock axis but nothing in 9/3 o'clock axis. If I adjust/tighten to the point where washer/shim can still be moved with screwdriver then play still the same. If I tighten as much as I can with fingers then washer wont move freely with screwdriver although play reduces but still quite evident - would guess at total of 1-2mm total movement at rim? If I then just very gently coax adjuster with literally just a smidge more load than finger tightness then all discernable play disappears and wheel continues to rotate quite smoothly. Q - How tight can adjuster be screwed down before any "real" risk of bearing damage/overheating - is the "washer must move with a screwdriver rule" really critical or ....??? Has anybody any advice or experience relating to the above?

Haven't really needed to purchase anything for my IB other than routine service items which with a bit of searching are still relatively sensibly priced. Pretty much anything else though seems to have experienced hyperinflation on an epic scale over last 3-4 years. First shock was when trying to find a new indidcator/dipped beam column stalk switch at the end of last year - eventually found a new item from EU based ebay seller at £100 but not before seeing second hand items at similar money. The usual outlets seemed to be selling at North of £150 for new. However I think I have found contender for 1st prize in IB craziest new spare part price ......... In process of tidying and spring pampering my car and decided to remove black aluminium sill end caps. After a quick attempt to titivate thought that I would just be lazy and treat the car to 4 new items, was thinking cost would be something suitably daft like £35 for a set of 4. Was horrified to discover that going rate is c£120 for a set of 4!!!!!!😲 Any more contenders for top of the list of crazy part prices???

Will be 21 years later this year for me. 60K miles and only "stoppage" events were alternator failure and DME relay failure. Fortunately both close to home. Currently on axle stands having changed all fluids, filters and plugs adjusted one slightly sloppy front wheel bearing, checked/adjusted valve clearances and gone over underside in full with torch and then liberal spray and wipe with WD40 (annual process) then good for another 12 months. In first 10 years had top end rebuilt, suspension fully refreshed and 915 box attended to but very fortunate to have purchased a totally original rot free dry climate car so body still crisp and no signs of anything suspicious whatsoever. Remarkable cars and after 20+ years still stirs the soul - fingers crossed the green movement doesn't try to stop the fun!

Sold to Chris - Thanks! Chris I'll PM you ..............

Pics to go with above ........

Pair of brand squeeky new totally unused 235/35/ZR19 Hankooks - manufacture date week 44 2018 (i.e. fresh!). £95 + delivery (should be about £10 next day) or collect West Yorkshire. Bargain = no offers please.

Would keep everything off the web at this stage. See what CC company advise first to avoid doing anything that might be in conflict with this. Remain polite, avoid making any specific threats of action and ask for dates and times during next few days when you would be able to discuss face to face with someone in position to offer resolution. Face to face first if situation warrants this approach; £2.5K would be enough for me .....

Putting aside cosmetic beauty then evidence of significant levels of pinholing on the weld isn't reassuring = poor workmanship and surely some perfectly reasonable grounds to question the longevity of the product? Return and seek full refund. Sale of goods act, merchantable quality, "as is reasonable to expect having regard to price ......."