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Richard Bernau

Gruppe IB
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Everything posted by Richard Bernau

  1. For wat you are talking about, I would take the std factory settings and just add as much front negative camber as you can get - which will only be about half a degree. Then the back will be another half a degree more than you get at the front. Modern tyres like camber. The most important thing will be modern tyres - like Michelin Pilot Sport 4. That will make the biggest difference. The steering is what it is - you can't really change it and it depends on your perspective whether it is already light and responsive. It is obviously unassisted, so will never be light at parking speeds. The top strut mount is rubber creating stiction (can be changed to monoball) and over the years 911s ran more and more castor meaning the steering loads up in corners. And its relatively low geared compared to the stupid fast racks in lots of modern stuff (Quaife do a slightly quicker rack). Its an acquired taste. Last thought, you can run less front toe in. The closer you get to zero toe, the more responsive it will feel. I would still recommend a smidge of toe in as zero toe rapidly becomes a chore on motorways and straight roads.
  2. Tax is much cheaper and premium unleaded is just a little bit cheaper or about the same. There are self serv discount pumps on town outskirts that save a decent amount over town and country prices. I paid NZD2.36/litre yesterday for 95 octane at a self serv. Unfortunately 98 octane is rare - like 20% of stations have it, though all have 95 and 91 octane. Diesel is cheap, but you pay a km base tax so its a little more work to decide if diesel makes sense over petrol even for SUVs. And insurance is cheap - like half-ish UK cost for me. And no real restrictions on who can drive the cars, except CSL is named drivers only due to value. Conclusion: its much cheaper to own a fleet of cars here.
  3. I like what you have done to the Jimny with the white wheel thing. But too small to have any benefit for me - 4 people plus ski gear plus food for a week, or planning to pull a 2000kg boat/trailer.
  4. So nobody is going to seriously try to talk me out of this Disco madness...
  5. In other news, am I absolutely mental to think of one of these as a cheap 4x4 hack? Its a 4.0 v8 ex Japan and is local. Haven't been to see it yet as I might be tempted to put in a cheeky offer and that might just be accepted. I have been reading up on what goes wrong. Has been described as the most reliable Disco, which makes it middle of the pack compared to competitors. These are cheap in NZ compared to Japanese 4x4, utes etc due to the reputation for unreliability and perceived parts cost. I like the red - shame its not the G4 orange, but if it was, the price would double.
  6. Surely these are money now? I like them more than the more obvious Alfa Spyder etc. Lucky 15 year old (but I can't really comment given I have done much the same thing for my daughter).
  7. This https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203494860590?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110010%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.DISCCARDS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818141627%26meid%3D55b816c652914b1abb7c3b2301fd1d66%26pid%3D101110%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D324776406898%26itm%3D203494860590%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDiscOrganicBase&_trksid=p2563228.c101110.m1982 Seems value in the current classic market.
  8. Nobody wants to be a better driver. Everybody thinks they are good enough. I remember what a hard time I had trying to get some of you lot to learn how to heel-n-toe back when we all did track days. An essential skill for that kind of driving. And you lot are the good guys, the enthusiasts, the ones who take some pride in being 'good' drivers. Try telling your husband/wife/partner some aspect of their driving needs improving. Prepare to sleep on the couch. I am actually not as anti speed limits as I used to be as the least worst, actually implementable, admittedly imperfect, bandaid solution. And I hate myself for saying that.
  9. One of my nz Father’s Day gifts - mixed media art by my daughter.
  10. @World Citizen - you going to introduce Felix to Herr Styles and his 914 build? Its even the same colour, no?
  11. Don't look back Phil - onwards and upwards and whatever floats your boat. Life is too short to be sentimental. And there are far too many cars to own and enjoy.
  12. Luxo cars are great for doing all the non sporty stuff in. I also think they make you drive slower. I was struck by the design similarities to w124 era Mercs - two tone + lower body cladding, tail and head light shapes, even the wheel design is a cross between the 8 hole and the fuchs w124 wheels. Might be the colour of yours. I have a mate with a GR in Christchurch. Probably need to have a closer look.
  13. The road trip didn't happen - because COVID. I did a shorter trip with Felix in 2019 in our Boxsters that was a bit of a dry run for the 2020 trip. In 2020, I did a solo trip on more or less that route in September in my CSL. It was the window post summer before more lockdowns and travel restrictions, but I wasn't comfortable having more people. It was also my last euro road trip for a while, so I kind just wanted to do it my own way. All the trips have been posted on here. I have done a few: Alps, Pyrenees and a little further east, as far south as Madrid. Mainly summer but one in March as well. Now I am in NZ its a whole different ballgame.
  14. Add Titanium valve spring retainers to your shopping list. You are being massively conservative on cam choice. Even in a 1000kg race car an S cam in a 3.2 litre motor is conservative. S cams were aggressive in a 2.0 litre, but not in a 3.2. Peak power with an S cam is sub 7000rpm - and you are building for 7600rpm. In a 500kg race car. For example, I know Ryan is very happy with IIRC DC60 cams in his 2.9 MFI tarmac rally car where tq is pretty important. For the record, the 964 cam is also a conservative choice for stock 3.2 when you can go up to a GT2 Evo cam. I don't actually know of a 3.2 build with that cam, but theory says it works (certainly 993SS has been tested). Anyway - super exciting build.
  15. Always love a bit of Daisy update. If you are wearing the inner edges which is what it looks like - then that is entirely expected. One of the reasons Daisy handles so well is because she has more static -ve camber than 99% of similar vintage 911s. To make old 911s handle you need static -ve camber because of the rear trailing arm design. You have to stiffen and limit travel to minimise camber and toe change under load in the rear. Hence you start with more static -ve. So, accept the wear (or drive harder). Seriously though, I used to get inner wear as well because of the long motorways to get to the fun roads. The *right* alignment for Daisy is to get the max possible front negative camber and then size the rear off those numbers. About a degree more -ve if you want a conservative setting and about 0.5 degree more -ve if you want a faster setting that is more tail led on the limit. Other settings are max front castor, a tiny bit of front toe in (or zero if you like it really pointy) and std rear toe in. It certainly wouldn't hurt to have an alignment done, but if it was me, I wouldn't go back to something like stock settings. That would be a waste of potential. I can't remember, you might have already gone to CoG at some point anyway?
  16. Bookmark this thought for a couple of years. I have so many cars on my "maybe buy one" list - and I can't sell anything here for 2 years (tax) and I can't really buy anything additional either (new business, so must be prudent). But, but, but... If I could find a good 4-matic w124 wagon, that would be high on the list. Right now there are only 2 124s I can see for sale in NZ (a 24 valve coupe and a 24 valve Sportline) and they are 6-8 times what I paid for our car. I was so lucky finding our 320 all of 3.5 kms away from our house. Then, the hot engine swap is IMHO the C36 motor as it is (I think) a genuine drop in being identical to the later 260-320 blocks in terms of dimensions, main ancillaries etc. I don't really fancy a diesel in a 124. You might say why 4-matic given complication, expense, weight? To be a truly usable daily here I want 4wd. That means gravel roads, mountain roads, towing, launching and retrieving a boat at the lake off a gravel ramp, etc. Allroad just about does all that for now. Yes, part of me realises that a 30 yr old car for a daily is insane. Surely, I should be buying a hybrid/electric something?
  17. Cross between the tartan/beige beast and this one would hit the spot https://www.e-arrows.jp/stockcars/benzvathe60t
  18. OMG - don't think I can ever unsee that. Pass the eye bleach please. Back to drool worthy stuff, I know there is good w124 love on here. I am still loving the 320E for smoking around in, with my only gripe being the reluctance of the gearbox to kickdown. We are in full lockdown here so there is no traffic on the roads, but on my walk today, I saw 3 w124s out and about. They look good on the road. I don't know if its come up in the last 43 pages, but there is a Japanese crowd doing lovely restomod w124s - https://www.e-arrows.jp/ . Not exactly how I would do it, but it does give me ideas. I would be super tempted if I found a 300/320TE 4-matic...
  19. IIRC, on my route you are in and out of Italy just once and you are not much more than 24 hours in country. You drop down from Grosglockner to the Dolomites. You overnight then head west via Stelvio to Switzerland. Memory may be failing me of course.
  20. Its a period piece - that's for sure. Never seen one in the flesh. Is the rear window actually flat glass?
  21. Go to Wheel Works in Crawley and ask the owner - he is the guy that handles all customers. They strip the wheels. The guys that re-anodise are one block west of Wheel Works, so you can prob find them on Google Maps but Wheel Works will tell you. You need polishing before anodising. The anodising guy told me the name of the guy who does the polishing - he is/was based near Gatwick on a little industrial estate kind of SW corner of the runway. I could maybe find the estate, but if you start with Wheel Works, the trail should be easy enough to follow. They might even remember me.
  22. Indeed - though woes already forgotten. We in full lockdown right now (not the UK 2020 lockdown lite), so no going anywhere other than the supermarket and petrol station. I have 1 more long weekend skiing booked in Wanaka and have 2 days of Mt Hutt ski passes to use before winter recedes - so those are AllRoad missions before swapping to summer tyres. Then I need to get the CSL over to Wanaka - the Crown Range, Lindis Pass and a couple of other choice side roads I have ID'd. That's the plan. I have 4 trips to Nelson this summer which is a good drive - walking the Able Tasman, 2 weeks family summer hols, a bi-annual family cricket match and the Lorde concert. And I am taking my daughter to Wanaka for New Years. Each of those trips is about 5 hours drive each way. The AllRoad is doing the bulk of that and the Merc will do at least one trip. Plenty of driving on the horizon. In between sex work to pay for all of it.
  23. Well, it seems pretty easy in concept and the shipping is cheap. Use Shipit in the UK who put 4 cars in a 40 foot container. The problem is NZ has had a ton of used imports from Japan over the last 35 years and some have been rubbish resulting in a load of unsafe cars on the roads. Over the years, the rules have got tighter and tighter. Now, you need a car that meets emissions, frontal impact and has traction control, plus a bunch of other stuff. Unless you are a returning resident or fit into an exemption (low-ish volume sports cars are one example). So all that is fine and sensible and you can see this info on Govt websites, the AA etc. The real issues are more practical. NZ also has a thing about modified cars and a thing about any rust in cars. Modded cars include even a wheel spacer and that puts you into a low volume certification regime requiring a specialist certifier to inspect, report to the Ministry and then tag your car. Any visible rust needs to be eradicated, meaning blasting, treating and painting and if its deemed structural, then you could have the whole car unable to be registered. Any repairs have to be completed to NZ standards as well. As you all will know, any UK car has some surface corrosion underneath it... You also pay a compliance agent who is supposed to handle all this, but basically tells you all the stuff you have to get fixed and leaves it up to you. Meaning every time the car has to get somewhere you have to find a tow truck. This is my process (more or less). Strap in and hold tight: 1. Clean car in the UK. With hindsight, now is the time to get it blasted and waxoled to within an inch of its life. Fingers crossed its never had any repairs 2. Get it collected and shipped. Cross fingers Suez isn't blocked and COVID doesn't SNAFU worldwide shipping 3. Car arrives (eventually) and NZ import agent provides you with various bills for customs to inspect and MPI to make sure you have no plant matter, bugs etc. Cross fingers for no extra charges - you pay by the hour if they have to clean, fumigate etc. Expect these monkeys to damage your car. 4. Car released and get a tow truck to collect and bring to your compliance guy. All going well, he will get it through the NZ MOT equivalent (a WOF). You pay him and go pay car taxes and get number plates and you get your car. NB, they will pull your car to bits taking off trim and underbody panels to inspect it. This is way more than an MOT. 5. All not going well, you get a call saying your car has some rust, so find someone to fix it, an engineer to sign off the work and pay to have it put in quarantine so you have time to do this. Also replace the brake pads, because the manufacturers stamp is illegible. Also remove wheel spacers as they are illegal. Also your AP Racing brakes and KWs need low volume certification. Start offering the tow truck guy sexual favours as you are going to need about 10 tow truck trips to get it backwards and forwards. 6. Break it all down and start with the engineer. He is signing it off, so good thing if he trusts your repairer. The first repairer wants $800 just to look at the car. Cross him off the list. The engineer then recommends another and says "he has a messy workshop but does great work and he had Audi A8s and Ferraris in the shop". So you go have a look and seems a great young bloke. Looks like any other repair shop and the mess is because the media blasting creates dust even though its in a sealed room. So you ask for an estimate before work starts and off you go. BTW, you pay the engineer up front in full as that is how it works. 7. And then you wait. And wait. No estimate and no work started. And the engineer takes 5 reminders to get the car in quarantine. 8. After weeks, desperate to get your car back, you have a chat with the repairer and he says he has started and its not that bad. Rear suspension and subframe out, all undertrays off, heat shields off, arch liners off, blast, treat and paint. But wait, there is more. Right rear qtr panel had at some point been replaced and the spot welds are the wrong size, so they all have to be drilled and replaced and then new paint. So you think ok that will tidy things up nicely and be like a midlife refresh and Christchurch is dry so that it will be good for 20 years. Right then, crack on. Oh, and can I have that estimate please? 9. Car done and you get a call to say its back at the compliance guy. They borrowed a dealer plate and drove it back, so that saves bending over for the tow truck guy. Still no estimate, but that's cool as I have the car and didn't have to pay. Result. 10. Then you argue about brake pads and give in and buy a set of DS2500s being the cheapest that fit AP Racing brakes on all four corners. Hey, the RS29s were half worn so whatever. 11. Then you say okay remove the wheel spacers. Which is fine as it is on wheel studs and open ended nuts and the BBS 19s fit over the front 350mm APs because luckily they are the skinny APs. Then you think actually I like it on spacers so lets do this properly. Turns out 2 spacers are fine as they only have 5 holes in them, but 2 are junk as they have 10 holes in them. Despite the 10 hole ones being the expensive Eibach TUV approved ones. NZ rules init. 12. So I book into the wheel guy and he has to make 2 new spacers from billet and he has to drill, tap and bolt them to the hubs (like a disc with a big set screw). I argue the merits saying this is no safer than having 5 wheel nuts hold it together, but it seems I have missed the point. You bolt on the spacers so that the tyre changing guys don't misplace them and send a car out with the wheels hitting the brakes. Like nobody would spot that one. But, rules. 13. Then I book the low volume compliance guy. There are 2 of them. Both busy for 6 weeks. So you wait. And ponder the world. And buy a Mercedes. Maybe that last part was earlier, I forget the timing. 14. Finally, home stretch. The wheel guy is only a block from the cert guy, so you ask him to quietly drive the car round, thereby saving a tow truck fee. Result. Then the cert guy calls and says sorry, can't pass your car as it needs lock washers on the caliper retaining bolts. Incredulous, I ask if he can throw some washers on and call it done? No, he doesn't actually work on cars. 15. So you get the car towed home as the compliance guy is now full. And you pull a couple of bolts and measure for washers, then find the specialist washer guy and buy a dozen incredibly expensive serrated, double locking type washers and come home and fit the washers only to find the rear bolts already had serrated locking nuts. Call the cert guy. Send photos of everything and he says "Cool, and bring it back to me, but not till I have been on holiday..." 16. Think smarter, not harder. Enough sucking off tow truck drivers for favours. I am going to beg, borrow or steal dealer plates. So you call the compliance guy and ask him for some plates and offer him sexual favours. But its NZ, so naturally he wants beer instead. Find a supermarket with Heineken on special, buy beer, collect plates and finally drive car to the cert guy. He says wait at the cafe round the corner. Its winter and freezing and the cafe has only outdoor seating and my phone dies in the cold. But after a very boring hour or so he turns up and says, its all good, but he will have to send the paperwork to Wellington and if they agree, then its all passed and they will remote activate the tag in 10 working days. So, yeah, I am tagged. 17. More waiting for Wellington to activate the tag. Borrow dealer plates again, more beer and drive the car to the compliance guy for the WOF, final inspection, get paperwork, pay tax, get plates and done. One hiccup: "Sir, your screen washer doesn't work". Answer: "Have you tried putting water in it?". "Oh yeah". 18. Remember the repair guy? Still no estimate. Wind back to 9 above. Once I have my car back at the compliance guy I realise it has paint runs and is covered in overspray from the underneath. Plus a couple of little scratches and they have painted things like the stainless KW shocks and parts that are aluminium and can't rust. And the entire car paint feels rough to the touch. Hmmm. So after ringing all my new Christchurch friends - compliance guy, engineering guy - they say let the repair guy try to fix it. Courage plucked up and I call him and have a moan. He say "no worries", bring it down and we will take a look. Pleasantly surprised, no argument, just a commitment to make it right. Of course, he wants to be paid and he let the car go back to me, so he kind of has to be nice at this point or he is ruined... 19. Take car to repair guy. He agrees to all remedial work. Well, we agree on all the paint stuff and that he will try to clean up the shock bodies and I ignore the rest of the underside. Pick your battles. Date set to bring the car back for remedial work. 20. Then it snows like a b@stard and he is stuck on the West Coast. New date set. In the meantime I try to get the overspray off. Panel Wipe works with a lot of effort, so I know its possible. My machine polisher and clay bars have no effect. Hmm. At this point I say, I am not bringing the car till I have the bill. Bill arrives 1 hour later. Sharp intake of breath, but its acceptable. Kind of cheap in UK terms. OK, London terms. 21. Take car to repair guy. We look over everything and walk round the car with "the dude". The dude, is the guy who will be actually doing the work and he seems pretty cool and actually paying attention. And he loves my Mercedes. They work Friday afternoon and the weekend and call me Monday to say all done. 22. Go have a look at the car. Notice some stuff not done, so they say come back in 3 hours. I come back, I take keys and take car away. Then I get the text: "Can you please pay me, I forgot to get payment before giving your car back?". I say, I think I might wait a few weeks, maybe take a holiday, get caught in a snow storm, pay part a bit later. Jokes, I just paid up. Karma. So, is it all good? More or less. They wet sanded the whole car, then machine polished it. One paint run is still noticeable to the touch - but I will fix that myself. The KWs are largely clean. There is black overspray on the red AP calipers. Some monkeys have scratched the irreplaceable CSL seat backs a treat and the rear bumper got scuffed on a corner by someone and a newly refurbed wheel has a scratch. But it actually looks as good as it ever has and it isn't ever going to rust, so I can live with that. And its a fire truckin animal as always that loves to do drifty stuff bouncing off the rev limiter in 1st pulling out onto 4 lanes of Bealey Ave. Actually, I have only done the drifty thing once after picking my son up from school. Scared the bejeesus out of me. And the value has gone up 50% since I bought it. What's not to love?
  24. When I need catharsis, I will dive into the detail. Good news this week is that I will shortly be dropping it off for all the remedial work. The guy agreed that everything I pointed out needed to be fixed. Is it worth it? We have just seen a good low/mid mile car go for £86k in the private market meaning dealer market is now close to £100k and even high mile cars are likely £60k+. Market madness? Probably. There will be a point where I take the money and run. But a good couple of years of motoring to enjoy before that.
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