911hillclimber

Nothing too exciting here, but over the last 12 months or so I've seen hot road 911 drivetrains asking prices with big numbers commonplace. Such engines cost a lot of money, gearboxes too, so: The hot engine in my Lola hillclimb engine is a nice spec and a bit unusual, so with the following specs what could it be realistically worth? 1 3.2 1986 base engine. Carrillo rods and ultra bolts, forged hi-compression pistons, Kent G60 cams and high rev springs. Twin plug heads and electronic ECU, very lightweight flywheel All rings, bearings, ramps etc all fresh. All parts used for a safe 8500 rpm engine. Flat fan custom made with stand alone alternator. 50mm PMO carbs and KN filters, as pic below. Custom equal length headers and silencers, no good for a 911! Rolling road tested to just over 300 bhp https://youtu.be/Btr1ATBrrLc?t=23 2 Mag cased 915 trans with 4 gears fitted (deliberately) rebuild with several trick parts for strength by Mike Bainbridge, about 500 miles old. LSD helical final drive. Currently arranged for mid engine installation. WEVO internal shift gate. HELIX competition clutch with 'road spec' friction plate, proven to be bomb-proof. 73T 911 Coupe, r

Thank you! the switch must be the idle position. so, good chance just the position of the rods on the crank may need a tweak. easy to check over Sunday this weekend.

This is a long time ago! the body to bell crank is solid 3.2, the rest is 1973, but I will check under the car/ side of the box. what does the switch do?

Hope this question is in the right place. My 3.2 since I've had it back in 1994 has had this problem, and I want to understand and resolve the problem! I've tolerated it, but getting older I'm less forgiving. The engine is a 1985 3.2 with about 140K miles, never been apart from the factory and runs really well. It sits in my ex-hillclimb 1973T, installed by Bob Watson in 1994. Totally standard, never been messed around with. Runs on E5 always, starts a dream, runs a dream, 34 mpg if I'm trying. The issue is the throttle response from tick over (850 rpm) to 'just' pressing the throttle pedal to pull away, just when the switch on the throttle body/accelerator linkage rod is located just clicks. As you trickle in traffic etc this small part of the throttle movement causes an abrupt throttle of the engine with little smooth just off the tick over position. If you are VERY careful on the throttle pedal you can ease the engine speed from tick-over to the red line perfectly, but this 'step' from tick over to engine pulling is too abrupt. I doubt Porsche designed it like this. This engine has always had this fault, OR, are all 3.2's like this? What is the purpose of this micro switch? Any thoughts welcome.

Thank you for that, something I did not know!

I think you are right, but threading a fresh wire was sure to work! I know the plug you mean, some time ago in this mini adventure I had it apart to self clean the pins etc, worth 1/2 hour next week ti try. thanks for the post.

Oil pressure gauge all working now. The wire from the sender to the gauge is open circuit somewhere. Have treaded a very long length of fresh black wire to subsitute it and all is well. Fiddly job but all done now. Going to actually use the car tomorrow! [url=https://postimg.cc/QV5RHkBP][img]https://i.postimg.cc/44FZ2WXJ/IMG-2328.jpg[/img][/url] Summer is here I think! [url=https://postimg.cc/QV5RHkBP][img]https://i.postimg.cc/44FZ2WXJ/IMG-2328.jpg[/img][/url]

But the oil pressure sender is still playing - up. Shows Max pressure with engine ign ON and when running. Cold start up pressure is usually 40/60 psi. Always shows Max with engine running wit the cable connected of off the sender. Working perfectly before all this happened! Will bell the cable through to the gauge and see if that is continuous. If not a new sender. Coincidence that I change one battery, the engine speed sensor broke and now the oil sender?

Yes, but I remembered it was a tricky job and hoped it was something simpler.. still, all done now.

Just the one, the original on the 1985 engine pictured above. The outer sleeve just crumbled away, and some of the loom going into the sensor itself came free. The other was done some time ago, but can't recall when, but do recall it being a pig of a job for access. Looked at the one that was good and it was pristine, clean and bright so put it back in. I think I bought it off you! Car starts just like it used to and starts every time, 2 to 3 secs cranking then fires on all 6 and when cold runs about 1100 rpm and drops to a very very steady 1000 rpm. No smoke, no clattering sounds etc, good for a thrashed 140K mile engine, never been apart. Been a bit rude! Thank you to everyone who has helped me along the way!

Got it all done now. New sensor in after a tussle under there, as you say, feel your way through. Started first time, and the second and the 3rd...and the 1,000,000th time this morning. All good and runs just like it used to. So, from changing a duff battery (which I am doubting now is actually duff, the old one and the 2 year old one is still in the car and the speed of starting is still bright.. Problem: time to fire went from 3 seconds to 5 seconds to 10 ish secs to never. Changed the DME relay with my 1985 spare. No change, no start. Changed the ignition switch, £100, no start. Looked inside the 1973 original and it was perfect inside. Lesson: be patient! Left new on in the car. Took the motorsport isolator out and cleaned and checked it. Seemed good according to the meter, so bought a nice new one, £23, now in the car, no start. Changed the one engine position sensor on the engine, £70 and all is well. Starts just like it used to. In all this chaos the oil pressure gauge showed max pressure with ignition on or off. Removed the lead and replaced. Now working. My beloved 911 ex hillclimb car now back to normal. Just as well as I expect to be a Grandparent tomorrow, so very soon nothing will seem normal any more! x 1,000,000 This is the 1985 duff sensor: 73T 911 Coupe, road/hillclimber 3.2L

I think you can call that a b1tch of a job, and I'm not finished yet after nearly 2 hours. Rather than moan (too much) the old sensor is out and the new in followed by the one I changed some time ago that almost dropped out of the housing, the bad original 1985 sensor did not pop-out. Just need to button all the damper/heater hose, DME relay and a run of battery isolation wires to, I hope, the new idolater motorsport type that's 'in the post'. The condition of the original part was poor, the outer loom sleeve all broken and much of the wires going into the sensor. The other one, maybe 15 years old looks new. I think the design of the 3.2 engine and all these parts are when engineers in Production Engineering decided to make things easy to assemble in the factory, and to hell with serviceability, a movement still in full flight today. Just might get to see if it will start tomorrow. If not it must be the DME unit itself, heaven help me.

Maybe I've reported this incorrectly. There are 3 sensor plugs/sockets in the bracket close to the fuel filter. Top white one is engine temperature, the middle and bottom ones are the Reference mark sensor at the bottom and the middle one the Speed sensor. I use the terminology of the Haynes manual. Nobody else uses this terminology and I get confused with them all!

Just might have found the issue. With the aid of YouTube and 9-1-1 on here (always my tech advisor!) checked the DME relay. The two I have (original @ 1985 and the one Bob Watson fitted in 1995) both check out perfectly. Soon I will have a nice new one too, so can compare that to the two I have, but I suspect I will soon have 3 DME relays that pass! Moved on to the two engine sensors fundamental to the DME system, the RPM sensor and the TDC Sensor. The resistance of each should be 600 ohms to 1600 ohms. Checked both and the RPM sensor is 860 ohms so good, BUT the TDC sensor is roaming around at 15.000 ohms +/- a house brick. I think this is the culprit. Will order one from Design911 and hope. 7

Thank you Phil. It all helps straighten things out. Design 911 sell a two sensor pack which explains things a bit! DME relay on it's way. Will try that first.