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  1. Utterly brilliant! Never knew they did them and the price of wossner. The £2000 price was from Design911. Job done, and thank you again. I'll go for the 10.5 ratio. Put a smile on my face!
  2. I know the person selling those! Question: Anyone know if the Wossner pistons can take the lift of the GE60 cam?
  3. Things have moved on £££ wise! However... Kent cams have come up trumps. They have a cam the same as the DC60, GE 60 which I think is the Garretson Enterprises cam. A pair is £912 inc vat. They do a spring set too for about £510 so I will order those. Have asked (emailed) Wossner UK to confirm their pistons have pockets to take the GE60 lift. JE pistons are 2 x the cost of Wossner. The difference pays for the cams! Pauter rods are on 8 weeks lead time, so ordering those tomorrow. Starting to come together, wife very supportive!
  4. I've emailed Steve recently about the rods asking if the 3.2 stock rods/arp bolts could tolerate 7500 and his response was no comment, just fit Carrillos! From that response I assume the answer is no.... Thus, I've settled on Pauter rods, have to make some decisions on this lot, and have had a doubt put in my mind about the Wossner pistons having pockets deep enough for the DC60 cams, so another email to try to resolve. I can buy the pistons from Design911 so saving Brexit etc shipping hassles (Wossner are German). Biggest sticking point are the cams. Seems Kent cams are not enthusiastic, Dougherty certainly are, just in the USA, but they have been clear what is right in some detail. Hope to send orders very soon so kicking this little project off. Many people do not understand a UK hillclimb and the way the cars are hammered, usually on wide open throttle and to the red line repeatedly but bouncing off the rev limiter for quite short periods, around 5 seconds. I think your summary of the position of the aircooled engine is spot-on.
  5. But I don't have those bits. Doubt decent SC engines are readily available either. Hello Peter, didn't know you popped over here too! Had a short reply from Kent cams this afternoon. They could not help unless they get the cam spec from the likes of Tuttils etc. Doubt that will be forthcoming. I'll have one more try with them and if that fails will pay the price and go to California and Dougherty Cams.. Conversely, Pauter have been in touch of their own accord to help I get the right parts from one of the UK dealers. There are several rod specs for 3.2 engines. Customer service. As an aside; 3L/3.2p&B page 151 Anderson's book, such engines give around 250 bhp. My current 3.2 does 262 recently on the rollers.
  6. Perfectly reasonable view on this engine. I do take the Anderson book with care, it is an old book now, things and experiences change. I might have a contact to a builder who would review my intents, and he is a hillclimber too, so understands things better for the application. Getting hard facts is hard! Nobody will quantify how many rpm the stock 3.2 rod/arp will take, so I'm forced to but rods, that 'force' is £1500. At this stage I could be very easily persuaded to leave well alone and simply put arp bolts in, 964 cams and clean the engine, about £2000, add the WEVO mod to the 'box for £1600 or so and we are ready with a bit more pep for 2022 race season starting in April. However, I like to do this garage stuff and have never built a well modified Porsche engine, just built 3 911 aircooled engines. I will bite the bullet this weekend I think.
  7. The cam choice is a tricky one. you know a good flexible engine is right for the hills, so don't want anything clammy to distract me! Not sure DC know what a UK hillclimb is.
  8. Summary without ignition mods: Just done my 'Spread Sheet' Thought some would find the following prices interesting, all £ and inc vat Wossner pistons: 1200 Pauter rods: 1500 DC60 or maybe softer Cams/spring kit/rockers: 2100 Crank bearings: 214 Gasket kits: 252 Flywheel bolts: 30 Rocker cover gaskets: 39 7100 rpm rotor arm: 34 intermediate brgs: 26 Loctite 574: 26 Crank oil seal: 34 Twin plug head machining, my estimate, 350 WEVO gearbox mod: 1700 Misc bottles/potions/cleaning fluids: 300 Total: around £6k ($ v £ @ 1.38) Ignition?
  9. Not sure drilling out the rods will give the reliability tbh. Also, yes, have asked the same questions ages ago, and also hoping to find 'today's' solutions from people. Over time things change, companies improve the products sold, and suppliers stop trading, so updates are good. That is what I am trying to find out. There are also choices to make; for example, Carrillo or Pauter for rods. Which ones may be better, may be cost advantageous, even both. In the case of Pauter seems many like them (ie not had or read of failures) and they are cheaper, but not by much by the time they arrive here from California for example. I do not want to go to this work and considerable cost and make a mistake on parts choices, so I am asking advice and opinions hopefully from people who have done this before me if they read this thread. Several have helped in recent weeks on this forum and another. Could stock rods and ARP bolts hold repeated red line levels of 7000, or 7500 or higher? Nobody has an answer except 'fit Carrillo rods' which is an answer in itself. from a company that I feel know what they are talking about. That was this morning by email from them, taken 3 weeks to get such info from a reliable source, thought I would share it on here. This engine change could be an £8000 ticket in parts and some services, so I tread carefully.
  10. The con rod bolts in the 3 litre and smaller engines have 10mm diameter bolts, the 3.2 had 9mm which makes things marginal.
  11. No explanation given! With lead times being given as 4 weeks from the USA i will need to start ordering parts soon esp the rods and pistons. I was not aware the crank needed extra treatments.
  12. I cannot get anyone to 'guess' at the rpm limit for stock rods with ARP bolts, but all big guesses are sub 7000 rpm, so resigned to a set of forged steel rods. Opinions in the USA are Pauter are less discussed, so presumably less failures. UK quote is £1576 inc vat/4 weeks. Also has advice from Rennsport that the crank will need cross drilling for oil to Clevite bearings. and Carrillo rods. The more you delve, the darker the journey!
  13. Had my '73T/3.2/915 for 30 years on the road. Box fully rebuilt by MB Eng about 6 years ago. My experiences; 1 Tried the Porsche conversion, removed it after a month to stock, awful thing. 2 Fitted a Seiene mod, not bad for the ££ but not very positive. 3 Fitted a Rennshift along the time most of the above people did, about 5 years ago. Very nice, very modern and works. Well engineered imho. There is no substitute for getting the box and all the linkage bushes new throughout, essential. Adjustment needs to be done with care. I have extended the gear lever to make the 'short shift throw' much longer about 80% of the stock movement to reduce the effort a short shift induces. This suits me so happy with what i now have. WEVO and Rennshift set out to deliver the same effect, shorter throw and a lever system biased by springs to the 3rd/4th plane of the H pattern. The Rennshift is a stand alone item so when fitted you have the factory gear change tower in one piece to keep with the car.
  14. That's interesting. I'm about to fit one of those into my race car's 915. There are several paragraphs on the internal unit to read on their site, have a look. It says you must be careful to align the lever tot the box when fitted or the 2 gates will mis-align. In my experience the plastic cheap bushes under the gear lever unit are the first port of call. Replace them with new. They are cheap and easy to fit. After those, the bushes in the special 'UJ' to the box on the end of the shift rod, those can wear but the stock bushes by design have slots in them, it is not wear! If the box has a WEVO in it chances are the UJ is a WEVO special too and should be free of any looseness. I put the box in 2nd or 3rd, and slacken/move/adjust the UJ until the lever engaging in the gear shift tower has clearance all round it when slotted into the 3rd leg of the H gate. It is important that the box is fully engaged and the internal ball detent is fully home before you adjust. Check all other gear lever positions are the same clearance all round the base of the lever shaft in each gate leg. Hope this is clear!
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