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  • Current 911
    SC Targa 1979
  • Daily Driver
    BMW 320cd

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  1. Hi everyone. Firstly thanks for everyone’s help and advise. I think I have fixed the issues by replacing the break warning module in the dash. Luckily I found a good on eBay from a 924 same part number. Fitted took for a test drive today and still no error. The light comes on with ignition but as soon as she starts the light goes off like it should. Another gremlin bites the dust!! 😜👍🙏🏻
  2. Hi Phil I did try the reset method but no joy. I going to borrow a warning light module and see how I get on. Also I forgot I installed LED bulbs as break light. It was a couple of years back and had no issues, but will try normal bulbs as never know.
  3. Thanks for the info. I did take it out and can’t see any burnt out components or dry joints on the PCB. But I have friend who has a spare that I going to try. if not it maybe an issue with balance in the MC. But don’t want replace just in a whim. But after trying a replacement warning light module l don’t know what else to try. 🤨 Also, don’t know if someone can check please. On the two connectors on the break fluid cap, when checking continuity is it shown open or closed as my is closed when the cap is on and fluid full. Cheers
  4. Hi IB family… I have a bit of an odd fault with my 79SC…when driving back from a short journey, my brake light warning light came on and will not turn off!! So to give you a bit of background to what has been tried to date to fix and what I know of the system. It’s the brake light warning light not the handbrake light No issues before and has no problems with disc and pads are only a couple of years old, also my 79 does not have any pad wear sensors Checks brake fluid level and all ok Disconnected the battery over night and light still on (this was to try and reset the x2 brake switches as act as pressure sensors to checks if both front and back master cylinders have same pressure. Ok that’s the background, what I have done to try and fix… Replaced both x3 prong brake switches on master cylinder Tested the level swich on the fluid reservoir Flushed and bleed the brake fluid Disconnected the battery again after light still on to try and reset. So I am now stuck as light is on consent. The only thing I was going to try was to drive it for a bit, and then try and reset by disconnected the battery again, if this doesn’t work I could really do with some help/ideas Thanks all in advance. 😊
  5. Hi mate. when your starter stays on have your tried turning the key off? If it keep spinning then it most probably is the solenoid on the starter that is sticking or your ignition switch contacts are not letting loose. But I would guess the solenoid is sticking. If you are into your own diy repairs, you could remove the starter and test on the bench, if the starter still spins after you removing the switched 12v then it’s the solenoid. Good luck.
  6. Hi Al, As your SC is a 1983 model do you know if you also have a DME relay under your passenger seat as I have read they can course similar type of symptoms. Cheers
  7. Hi Al, so with the ignition on, go to the fuel meter and push it down, can you then hear the fuel pump cut in? If yes then good there. Also have you tried to swap the round fuel relay? If you don’t have a red one juts use a black one to test. If still on start, with the ignition on can you hear the high pitch noise coming from the high voltage unit on the left side of engine bay? If no then maybe a issue there. Also pull one of the plugs and then get someone to crank the car and see if you have a spark when placing the plug against negative bit tinware. Hold the plug with some insulated pliers for safety. If no spark then could link back to CDI, coil, dizzy cap, rota arm if you have a good spark, then you need to start looking at fuel pressures, but you will need CIS gauges to test I wouldn’t start replacing bits until you can properly test as it’s will become expensive taking that route. Hope this helps cheers Paolo
  8. Hi Alex could I take the Boge shock please. I could arrange to collect but not till week after next as away in biz next week. Or could you give me a cost to post? Many thanks Paolo
  9. Hi FF I live in Bedfordshire and would love to take your rusty bits of you if available? Where in beds are you? Cheers Ringo
  10. Ringo911

    Warm starting issues

    Hi Lee, if starts ok when cold and is much worse when hot it could be to do with the CIS injection fule pressures. I would take it to a specialist that has the correct gauges to test. My initial thoughts would be either the fuel accumulator that sits just near the fuel filter in the engin bay that helps hold fuel pressure when hot or a one way fuel pump value, depending on the type of fuel pump you have one is inbuilt the other in line. If it is inline and the pump is ok don't just fork out on a new pump just the value can be purchased and fitted. Hope this helps and good luck Ringo
  11. All sounds ok. If the belt a groove type or flat? I prefer the flat type. For the belt to overheat it must be slipping. I would clean all the pulleys and the belt with something like panel wipe/degreaser and also rough-up the back of the top split pulley with some wet and dry or scotch cloth. My belt size is 10x170 on a 1979 SC hope that helps you? Cheers
  12. Hi busybe, how tight was the belt, when pushing with you thumb you should get about one-half inch with light push. Also what is you shim setup on the shaft? Cheers
  13. Gents. If you look on www.gsfcarparts.com they stock the Beru Braided Set. But many weekend there offer a 35% discount code. I purchase a full set for £90!
  14. I agree with Phil have a look at the valve adjustment first. Also I had tapping type of rattle only from the drivers side and it turned out to be a leaking heat exchanger gasket. I dropped the exchanger replaced the x3 gaskets and bingo no more rattle. That was after hours of checking my valve clearances! If you like send over a sound clip to see if I can relate it back to my issue. Cheers
  15. Hi mine SC did the same since I brought the car until last week when I was working on a vacuum leak and found that the safety cutoff value connection was hanging off disconnected! If you remove the air bellow that is connected with two large hose connectors and I think there is two other oil breather pipes you can then see and gain access to the switch/connector. I just re connected mine and bingo my fuel pump now only runs when the engine is running. Hope this helps? Cheers
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