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jevvy

Gruppe IB
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About jevvy

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  • Location
    Reading

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    '89 911 3.2+some
  • Lottery Car
    993 turbo
  • Day Job?
    Mouse pusher
  • Favourite Food
    Curry
  • Drink?
    Stella of course
  • Drive of your life
    Virgin trackday at Snetterton 2006 (late starter)

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  1. Finally some good news! I think you will appreciate the factory HE's next time you do a valve adjust and can do it without removing the HE's first That said its even easier with no HE's in the way so maybe....
  2. All meshes aren't created equal in terms of airflow - if no cooler is present you can prioritise style over function
  3. In the absence of any other replies can you do a bit of an educated guess? The actual hole will probably vary in size a bit supplier to supplier and the mesh is probably sold in oversized sheets anyway. Are you going to fit an oil cooler?
  4. Nice work mate, every little helps as my grandma used to say! Enjoy the ongoing fettles and summer drives getting to know the car a bit better.
  5. The stop plates primary job is to prevent the mount totally failing if the rubber bush fails - think of them as a audible rattle alarm to indicate a failed engine mount bush. Over extended service life the stop plate can spread the weight of the engine over a larger surface of the rubber mount as the rubber begins to sag if used in the 'new' orientation as detailed above - also looks cooler
  6. Ha, I was going to make a poor taste joke to Chris about using spacers but thought he'd already had enough amusement for one day! What kinda spacers do you have? Were they fitted to resolve the same issue? First buyer since then?
  7. Pirtek crimps look more like this: Which dont correctly seal the porsche type end fittings: As they squash the pipe against the outer bubble instead of applying pressure to the hose on the fitting side of the bubble, correct shaped crimp part also shown in the pic above. HTH.
  8. Are you sure longer rubber hose length is going to help? (fnar fnar) Additional hose length will force the medal pipe to pivot / rotate down which increases the angle where the hose has to attach. Also the hose Pirtek uses (in my experience) is thicker than the stuff normally used on those oil lines so may actually kink more as its less able to deal with the curve required. Finally the Pirtek crimps and crimp machine create longer crimps which dont correctly seal against the second bubble on the end fittings (Look at the short crimp marks on the current pipe) and add extra un-bendable sections to the end of each pipe. Basically what I'm saying is that you are unlikely to get result first time with a Pirtek solution. Do you have a hefty bench vice or something you can get a good firm grip on the pipe with? A well judged twist / bend of the existing fitting to rotate the left hand fitting to be more in line and closer to the right hand fitting has got to be worth a shot. I'm not talking about putting a new actual pipe bend into it but you will find it will have a range of 'adjustment' without actually needing any bending equipment. The same type of adjustment is needed to fit an SSI question mark oil line onto a 3.6 conversion.
  9. Can you 'adjust' the metal bend slightly to alleviate the stress causing the kink? If you get it as close as you can then actually discconect it so its not sat slightly kinked until fill with oil and first start time, hopefully then the first few heat and oil pressure cycles will reduce the kink further.
  10. Ha, good work How long till you leave? I'd suggest leaving orig pump in place and take the new one as a spare.
  11. Assuming all parts are working as they should all bucking behaviour can be adjusted out. Fresh fuel pump sounds like a reasonable start since you already have it on the shelf - after that follow one of the well documented tuning guides to get it running bob-on. Once you get it close then its only really small adjustments to get it just right so dont be too hasty turning adjusters too far either direction as an overshoot in either direction can sometimes create similar symptoms and make you feel its not doing anything. Good luck buddy.
  12. Any lift is better than no lift but you have to think about what jobs you want it to help you with in order to pick what suits your needs best. Indeed a 2 poster gives better access to the underside of your car, you can park a car under a lifted car etc etc but I find the posts just seem to get it the way a lot and they absolutely stop you from doing any interior work through the door opening. I have also found the 2 poster lifts I have used a bit less steady than a the lift I have at home, In an ideal world you would probably have one of each (scissor & 2 post) but for me the scissor is the more universal tool if you have to pick one.
  13. Just checked mate - it will fit if your up and over door is anything like the one I have. Garage door prudes 130cm into the garage when open and is very close to the ceiling. 190 cm from front bumper to top of windscreen. 130 cm from back bumper to top of rear window. So it looks to me that even with you car front or rear bumper parked right against the garage door before you open it there is room for the garage door to open fully with the lift at full height. *My lift isnt in the garage with up and over door so cant check for sure or take pics so this is all hypothetical. **Measurements taken from a 964
  14. Ah crap, can you not just lower the car a bit each time you need to open the garage door? The only high point on the 911 is the roof area - most of the rest of the car has good clearance to the ceiling, have you checked? Nose of the car facing the door would give you most clearance.
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