jevvy

Mega, look forward to seeing it all brand new!

Failed chain tensioner noise can be heard here: Noise fades as revs and oil pressure rises.

Remember all you are doing here really is popping one of the inner races out of the bearing so not much force is (usually) required. Its an interference fit with not much interference. The outside inner race of the bearing will come off with the hub and will need removing from the hub - I cut a partial slit in it with a dremel cutting disc then pry the slit open with a sturdy screwdriver then the inner bearing race half will slide off the hub. In this pic you can see the bearing with the inner race missing - sadly cant find a pic of the inner race on the hub

I did an image search as I knew what I was looking for - those pics were from pelican. Zip ties round each hole helps keep them sealed more securely. As mentioned right at the start of all this on hand-built modified cars suspension setup is always a bit of a compromise between ideal settings, what settings are possible and aesthetics - sounds like you are v close to the centre of the venn diagram *edit one example of a boot supplier: https://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-category/steering-suspension/spherical-joints-rubber-boots.html

Is standard If you want those spherical bearings to last a bit longer some of these protective boots will keep the dirt and grit out: Ride height height will have very little impact on this - you will have to jack it up by a load (like several CM) to change clearance under compression. Camber is your friend here. Obvs set the other side rear camber to the same. *edit minor beardy point the brake line clips should have their slots aligned horizontally not vertically...also makes them easier to remove / fit

both great tips Ignore either at your peril

Geddin - thats great news! Ha - I thought you has misspelt fellow as in geezas so was yanking your chain, didn't expect the 4 legged version of Fallow

I guess I'd assumed you wanted track rat stats - you are spot on for road and even tyre wear. If you put the car on the scales / block of wood setup you used can you not lie on your back and slide under? Make sure the car is chocked so cannot roll off obviously. Good luck with the plough and your fallow

Once again excellent work! Is -0.5 the most you can get on the front? Have you checked what is limiting this? Sometimes it can be just dirt buildup on the underside or some of the tar sealant the factory uses blocking one of the slots where the locking bolts go through the chassis. You can use a long block of wood or something similar (big spanner with foam etc) placed against the wing to lever against to help add a bit more negative if you so desire. Be careful though as you can apply a lot of force to the wing when levering against it so easy to damage things if you go at it too hard. Also I prfer to adjust the rears from the backside with the wheels on the ground - if you have the adjusters greased and the lock bolts just the right amount to slack you can make very fie adjustments and watch the wheel move (especially if you have slip plates) plus you don't have to do the jack up, wheel off / resettle suspension dance in between each adjustment. A cut down allen key and a spanner is easiest to adjust the eccentric bolts - I've ended up with 2 so i can hold one while adjusting the other. Good luck with bump steer kit and last round of adjustments.

welcome to IB

Absolutely fantastic - bang on 50%! Persistence has paid off.

Fantastic work, well done. You can have a play with this by jacking it up in the middle at the back so you are measuring front only weights in isolation. But I'd maybe have a drive with the cross weights good and try braking on a flat non cambered road then take it from there. Also other factors will affect this like front camber and castor. When testing the braking lockup do 2 types of braking 1. Emergency panic braking like when you have seen a sheep jump in front of you and you have slammed on the anchors full force 2. Proper braking where you load the front up with a soft initial brake application to move the weight forward and compress the suspension then really get into the pedal hard until one or both lock up. Good luck.

Just thinking...... I'd do this sooner rather than later, a bent ARB / mount / bush might have you adjusting corner weights that are actually ARB induced. Also dont forget tyre pressures - get them all the same first too.

Its actually quite simple and can be done without jacking car up. Just remove bolts 8 and 11 which will release the ARB bush holder part 24 - 5 mins at worst. Ride height calculators available online which can help get you in the right direction. By the looks of things you need to take some height (weight) away from the left rear - if you are smart you will be able to get this done in one hit and then fie tune with the front adjusters

Excellent work, heading in the right direction. I've never considered doing one end at a time - I'll have a think about that and get back to you. One other thing to do / try is to detach the antiroll bar front and rear as they can sometimes add a bit of weight to a wheel that is not ride height related. You can get away with just undoing one side but I normally disconnect both sides so I know they are taken fully out of the picture. Then if when you reconnect them they unbalance your balanced car you can look at adjustable drop links or shims to remove any ARB pre-load (something you don't want) As you say some chunky adjustments still to get you close but once you are in the right ballpark it gets easier as you fine tune with the way to adjust front torsion adjusters. One final note - I use a spreadsheeet to track each measurement at each round of changes so I can see the setup evolve - sometimes things go in a direction you don't want them to so its nice to know how to reverse that last step. Good luck and have fun