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R2D2

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Everything posted by R2D2

  1. From me bruv who has been through this..... "Firstly they’re two different engines. Gen 1 is the M96 (same as the gen 2 996) and M97 (the 3.8S) and on the Gen 2 997 they moved to the 9A1 (as also used in the gen 1 991’s). Two elements - scoring and ovaling. The cooling runs from the top down on the 1.2.3 (left bank when you stand at back of car) to bottom up on 4.5.6 (right bank). The causes the right bank to run hotter and makes it more prone to scoring and ovaling. The reason that the 3.8S is slightly more prone, but not immune, is the cylinder walls are thinner than the 3.6. Combined with the above locasil can wear and break away from the surface making the scoring get progressively worse. The piston start to ‘tip’ which causes the edge to ‘tap’ the heads which is why you listen for the tapping noise.... as well as look for the left sooty exhaust. It’s the left exhaust tip that goes sooty because the exhaust crosses over - I.e the left tip is on the end of the right bank manifold. If you ignore IMS bearing fear mongering the later 2000/2001 gen 1 996 3.4’s and the 986 3.2S have the most resilient M96 engines. Incidentally there has been talk of the piston coating being an issue on 9A1 but I’ve not bothered to read in to it. Basically, you either buy one and accept you may get a 11k bill or buy one that’s already had a rebuild. its still cheaper than buying a new car with high depreciation. Just ducking drive it and enjoy it FFS."
  2. My brother did have a 3.2 Boxster and now has a 997 gen 1. The 3.2 did have a leaky IMS which was replaced with some ceramic do-dah - I don't know the full details. The 997 gen 1 had bore score which actually revealed itself by one exhaust sooting up as the bore scoring usually effects the same specific bore/bores IIRC - I can find out if anyone needs to know. The 997 ended up having the Hartech work-over with Nikasil sleeves etc which, all in, cost nigh on £18k in the end. You really need to tread carefully to make sure you get a good one following a proper inspection - same as any Porsche really!
  3. Hi Will Hope you are well? Do you mean one like this but with the wiring going straight into the back of the plug? If so heat up rubber with a hair dryer and push out whichever way is then easiest to push back in. Cheers Nathan
  4. Looking forward to see how you benders get on. Sorry, couldn't resist! David - mdf is fine if things kept nice and dry, but even MR MDF puffs up like a mo-f when damp. Looks like you sealed it up though which will help.
  5. Its just a simple rotary switch. I don't think they even "click" when activated. When you are testing for continuity test all three pins as one is not used. It just pulls off IIRC, its possibly repairable.
  6. pretty nifty that Mr Jev
  7. Cool - I'm gonna try this next time. I always find holding the screw absolutely still (with an inevitably oil covered screwdriver) whilst tightening the nut the trickiest part....
  8. timing chain tensioner oil pipe? oil pressure sender unit leak?
  9. R2D2

    Dash gauges.

    Cool cheers David I'll let you know when I have sorted dosh. Thanks Nathan
  10. R2D2

    Dash gauges.

    David, cheeky offer of £50 for the oil/ fuel gauge with the damaged bezel? Nathan
  11. I use 10w50 Rock oil also, mainly because I like the cut of their jib but also because I'm big fan of Rock n Roll
  12. You lot are so lovely, group hug please
  13. tres cool - someone should smudge the words "clean me" white van style!
  14. I had a blue Boxer which I always thought was the little man's Grifter. Mine was "grifter" blue with the union jack motif. Now if you were really posh you had a Vektar....
  15. I have two of the aluminium frame 1" steerer tube types - no cracks but yes I've since read of the issues with some. I owned and raced one in the very early 90's and never managed to break it....but I was a lot skinnier then!
  16. I'm fixing up a pair of 1990 snap-n-fail MTB's - beautiful workmanship - bought one with Deore DX for £25!
  17. No sunroof in a CS Mr Beaks
  18. Kev - probably your flasher stalk - if the contacts within this bend/ wear slightly out of shape you loose your beams! To test this theory you'll have to remove your stalk and fiddle! Do a search on "Dead lights" as Monkey Chap did a good diagram showing how this chaos unfolds!
  19. Hi David 28121912 I have said yes (i.e. yes, I would like to buy them) but I only need the LH one so, if ok with Mr Gander, happy to split. Regards Nathan
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