Northy

Sorry yes you are right. PV is a 3.2 thing not SC.

So you do still have the proportioning valve in? You can just take the middle out and it’s straight through, or just take it off. Next time you do the fluid, just take it off.

That’s is interesting. I’d have assumed you ideally want more front bias. Under heavy breaking you don’t want the rears locking up first. Are you running the sC proportioning valve?

I should be in for this. Don’t mind the time. 6pm more of a stretch to make it in time, but can make it work

I really hope Lewis is fired up for this season (how could he not be?). It could be a cracker! I mean come on, what a guy 😎 You can’t turn up like that and not be fired up.

What do you think?

What's happened to you. You've changed 🙂

So, I have an idea. Call me lazy, but presumably I could whip the intake valve cover off, double check the clearances on the intakes once more, and use the backside method to check the clearance on the exhaust valves. If they are out of whack, I can then drop the oil and investigate further and adjust the exhaust valves. Another question I have. Perhaps for @proporsche the specs are set for an engine cold, at 20 degrees. Do you think they should be the same at 5 degree ambient? Or should I warm the engine a bit first and then set them? Would it make any difference?

Thanks Ivan, I’ll give it a go 👍

Ah I’ve sorted that now Ivan 👍 Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I don’t think it’s an exhaust leak, but I’ll double check, just to rule it out. Given it’s more prominent once warm it has to be something to do with thermal expansion.

I would love to do that one day. I read an article years ago about two guys in an early car, travelling light with a small bag and a credit card, ferry down from northern Italy - I think it was on DDK. It sounded magic!

Hey all. Happy New Year! Please lend me your ears and help me diagnose an issue with my car! I have a ticking noise coming from the 4-5-6 bank on my SC. I’m pretty sure it’s cylinder 6 (I’ve had a stethoscope on it). When you first start the car it sounds perfect, but as it comes up to temp it gets louder, and the 4-5-6 bank louder than 123. I’ve checked and reset the intake valve clearances on 4-5-6 a few times and they are all fine (0.1mm gap). I’ve attached a link of it running. The video filters out a lot of the background noise, so it sounds louder in the video, but it shows the difference. https://vimeo.com/1042907029 I saw this on Pelican http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1162012-82sc-tapping-sound.html I presume Pro Porsche on Pelican is our same @proporsche (I’ve PM’d you the same questions, Ivan) On that thread he suggests if it’s a broken spring it’s noisy cold and hot? I’ve had a poke around and can’t see any broken springs on the intake side. When I put the stethoscope on the valve cover stud nearest cylinder 6, it certainly sounds “tinny” like valve noise, if that makes sense? Maybe it’s an exhaust valve that’s too loose? Will the noise travel that far? The gap of 0.1mm is at 20deg C. Do we think there is any merit in closing the gap a tad at 5 degrees C? My next plan is to check the exhaust valve clearances, elephants feet, and for any broken springs. If that all checks out and it’s still noisy, my next thoughts are a failing valve stem seals, bent valve, intake elephants feet on the adjusters, dodgy rockers (in no particular order), but it’s probably time to take the engine out at that point. Anyone got any other suggestions or experience? How can I test the valve seals and elephants feet? Here’s a shot of intake valve 6 just for fun. I should add, pretty sure it’s not timing chain. The stethoscope sounds like cylinder 6 is loudest (on the nearest valve cover stud).

Feck me. It’s like 2008 again. All the old faces. Love it 👌