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  • Current 911
    '77 911S
  • Daily Driver
    Ford KA
  • Lottery Car
    959, 911 GT3 RS, Carrera GT,...

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  1. hello all, I came across this picture and was especially interested by the replacement of the ugly (to me) bumber bellow but who makes these parts? thanks
  2. My horns stopped working too, so I bought horns and bracket of a 996/986 from a local breaker for 30€ Had to modify the bracket a little bit (cut in length, straighten, drill a hole, sand and paint it) to fit the original mounting hole Made some adapters to fit the original connectors this is what it looks like, looking up from the floor
  3. SC brouchure (40pages) and data sheet (4pages) 1980 for US market. Im am asking 50 pound including shipping from Austria to UK
  4. 6. Further Projects - smuggler box lid To reinstall my smuggler box lid I have to make a cut out - steering tunnel cover I also have make a new steering tunnel cover as mine did fell into pieces when I tried to make a cut out for the second (left hand side) drain hose. - thermal insolation of hoses I am thinking about adding some thermal insulation to the hoses running inside my luggage compartment so I can use my carpet again and do not have to worry about condensation. I learned that I have to use rubber insolation because of t
  5. 4. Ductwork Almost done, only the T-pieces and the ductwork. That’s was what I thought but it was really hard work especially at the left hand side of the car because of the almost non existing space for anything (duct, hand, srewdriver,…) Done! 4. Filling Picture taken at the shop while filling. Notebook for system testing prior to filling First attempt didn’t work because some of the fittings where not screwed together properly (I didn’t notice it during installation). After tightening and replacing the seals the second a
  6. 3. Electric Routing all the wires through existing holes in the bodywork took some time but adds to the smooth optic of the whole Installation. View inside the smuggler box. Red arrow points to the stud I used as ground point for the compressor unit. The blue arrows point to the exiting openings from the original AC which I closed. Grey connector: Blue/Red – wiper pin 53i (green wire) Blue/white – switch for rear/front windshield heating - pin 3 Looking through the clock opening in the dashboard to the wiper motor. Red arrow indicates
  7. 2. Routing hoses I did choose the existing holes from the wind screen washer bottle to pass the hoses from the condenser to the luggage compartment. I had to slightly enlarge the holes to get enough space for the rubber grommet. This is how I modified a standard rubber grommet This is the tool I used to crimp the hose connectors. It is usually used to connect steel for reinforced concrete by twisting around some thin wire.
  8. 1. Condenser and fan assembly The left hand head light has to come off to get access to the screw holding the top of the horse shoe bracket Test fitting the fan assembly, it is tight! This is the position I had to move the mounting screw It is a very tight fit, red arrow points to edge of fan/bottom of front spoiler, green arrow points toward front of car. red arrow point to bracket that holds the impact bumper damper, green arrow points toward front of car. Everything lined up and connected This is a
  9. After preparation for classic retrofit electrocooler Installation ist compleated its time for my report of the installation to my car. It is a Porsche 911S ’77, left hand drive car with a brake booster, originally a US delivered car which came to me with an original AC (probably dealer fitted as there was no front condenser but all parts used where factory) which I ripped out completely during the restauration as most of the parts (especially all the hoses) where shot. Unlike most other left hand drive cars owner I did choose to route the hoses from and to the fan/compressor inside t
  10. I did buy these type of cable shoes and used the standard crimping tool I had at home which is only rated for 6mm² cables but I gave it a try and it and it did work quite well. So no special tool needed cable, clables sleeves and so so on add up to about 30 Euros. I want to point out there are at least three different styles of alternators out there -81 external voltage regulator, hexogan nut M16x1 82- internal voltage regulator, hexogan nut M17x1,5 90A from ?? , hexogan nut M17x1,5 as mentioned above I changed my alternator before fr
  11. I played around a bit more and came up with an easy solution for this problem: I glued together two 3mm leds (red and green) and wired them up: Made a clear light cover - which was the hardes part and still is more a prototyp (would like a color more like ivory or something white) it looks like this at the moment: from top to bottom: off- stage 1 - stage 2
  12. 3. Wiring 3.1 Ground wire alternator – engine On top: New 16mm²/100A wire covered in silicon heat protection sleeve, ends covered in shrinking tube, old one on bottom, hard and brittle from heat I guess 3.2 Alternator – starter Recommended size: 110A or 16mm2 - See difference to existing one (on the right): Here is an overview where the wire goes after it disappears trough the engine shroud Underneath the car you can see the wire easily after removing the starter As I found it impossible to remove the whole wi
  13. So I searched the net and found the German company CarPoint. They are selling brand new fan housings for 415 Euros delivered Unfortunately it turned out my fan has only a diameter of 225mm and not the required 245mm of the later model years. So I had to buy a new fan too – which is only available from Porsche – another 420 Euros spent One thing I did notice when I tried to put it all together – the cover on the back of the alternator is also different/larger. You need part number 911 106 055 01 for the 90A alternator, which is still available from Porsche for ar
  14. 2. Alternator: Standard on this engine is a 70A alternator with external charging regulator I contacted Faro GmbH in German who 13 years ago exchanged my back then broken alternator with a new one, they are still in business and did exchange my 70A alternator with a 90A one for 327 Euros delivered. A cheaper option would have been to buy a new one from sources like Lager11 314 Euro + postage and sell the old one. But since my old alternator had worn out bearings this was an easier option for me. Unfortunately the new alternator is slightly longer than the old one, 11mm to be ex
  15. I had to fabricate a mounting bracket for it, made out of a piece of aluminium I had at home. Which I just glued to the bodywork
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