Jonny Hart

I put mine on the rear quarter window. Almost invisible there.

I bought these. Instant, super bright and very light weight. A doddle to put up, two clips and you're done. Light is yellow/white, not the nasty blue tint. https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-twin-5ft-led-batten-white-60w-5600lm/7223v

Meeting with a few folks regarding a new race car AC system we’ve developed and also CDI for 935 and CSL.

I would have gone but I’m off to the Daytona 24h in a few days!

On my Christmas list this one. https://www.blaupunkt.com/en/nc/products/car-multimedia/car-radio/products/single/19059/

There are probably 100 companies doing similar.

It arrived on two pallets. The control unit and hose/fittings gubbins on one. Two ramps on the other which is the heavy one (reckon 500kg). Ground is currently road planings so we had to plywood down but still took three blokes to move the pallet trolley 1 metre!

@MarkJ is spot on with the floor slab (as expected). If you are sinking a lift like I did, you need another mini slab under the lift which also has mesh. The subsoil obviously needs to be dug deeper in this area. I poured this first, then left it a day and built the shuttering for the lifts and poured around. I used square ventilation duct to make tunnels to run the hoses.

6m is big enough for most stuff except perhaps a Lincoln Continental at 5.8m. I’m a bit tight at 5.5m but I had other constraints. The longest car in my fantasy garage is a Citroen DS. At 4.9m it’s longer than a Volvo 740 Estate so I’ll just fit it in!

Probably gonna use a line of sight detector.

It’s 6m wide and 5.5m deep. If I had the space I would have gone for 6m deep.

Will still buzz if the park light is used from the indicator stalk. That could be ok for a lot of people.

It’s not that simple. You’d have to run this to the park/side light as the main/dip are switched off when ignition is off but... you might want to use the park feature (activated by indicator stalk) and then you don’t want the buzzer.

Hi all, For a couple of years I’ve had an annoying rattle/squeak from the left side of the car when it the car is warm. Today, with my new scissor lift I am pretty sure I know why. I have SSIs on the car and if I pull down on the h/e part of the LH manifold, it moves and I can hear metal on metal. The exhaust itself is not loose but I can see the h/e outer moving where it is formed around exhaust port on the top. It doesn’t appear to have any fixings, just shaped around the exhaust ports. The RHS does not do this, it is firm. When I tap it with a rubber mallet, it rings, whereas the LHS rattles and squeaks. Any suggestions how to fix? I am thinking to tack weld the h/e flange to the exhaust tube.

I finally took the plunge and bought a scissor lift. Prior to that I needed an extra building to put it in. Sunk it into the floor too. I chose the two piece lift from Automotech Services. Allows access down the middle of the car. The only hiccup was that I had nowhere to put the lift prior to laying the concrete. Despite double checking with the supplier about the dimensions and explaining that I was sinking the lift in and going to the floor plan, it turns out that the plans online were out of date. The lift was now 3cm wider and my troughs were too small. So out came the grinder so cover my lovely new building with dust. Wasn’t a happy bunny but all done now. The lift parts total 700kg, each ramp weighing 300kg and I didn’t have any means of lifting them. Had to get all Egyptian with wooden rollers, levers and slides. Took a couple of hours to move them into position. Ramps are then bolted to the floor and after bleeding the hydraulic system time for the first lift! It’s a 1.9m lift although I can’t raise it fully without the car hitting the roof. I can get it high enough to stand under though. Next job is to figure out how to adjust the stop switch for the high position. I’ve dreamed of having a lift for years and it will make all the difference I’m sure. I’ve already found the source of an annoying squeak which I could never find on the ground.