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jaz

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Everything posted by jaz

  1. Thank you all for your input here, I'm edging towards Guy's response ,being a " neither a 911S or Carrera but bhp 911".
  2. Hi Guys, It's one for the enigma code crackers, would you say the following 911 chassis number belongs to a 2.7s or a Carrera? "911 410 1496" Regards, Jaz
  3. Hey Guys, This car has now been sold ( deposit taken) collection in three weeks, quite a few calls, will take advert down to keep the phone at bay. A bit sad knowing that its going to go for certain now, though good to have seven glorious years of ownership for such a nice & reliable rarity.. Cheers, Jaz
  4. Hi Guys, Seven glorious years of ownership, now a new job now prompts its sale: http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/porsche/911-pre-89/wide-body-930-black-porsche-carrera/2660848?isexperiment=true Jaz
  5. Hi Guys, giving it another try. Would you be able to pop the hood/bonnet of your 930 /SCs and provide me the measurement between the catch/release screw (into which the hood release cable is attached) and the front bumper panel please. Cheers, Jaz
  6. Hi guys , The bumper is now off, 8mm hold drilled into the panel behind the bumper panel as per bentley manual. A Steel rod is in fishing for bonnet catch for a couple of hours now with no luck of a grabbing the catch screw..any pointers? not sure if I should be fishing for the catch a 45 degree angle or in parrallel with the the front bumper panel..though the latter is a tad difficult to with the lower valance still in place It appears that the wheel jack mounted behind the panel may be impeding my fishing. Any pointers would be much appreciated.
  7. Hi Guys, My Bonnet cable has snapped, on the very day I was set to replace an ailing battery & list the car for sale. What is the best way to open the bonnet when the cable has snapped/dis-engaged.. how frustrating as I wanted to list it for sale today. Any help would be very much appreciated. Cheers, Jaz
  8. Thanks Again Ben, Excellent ! link, just what I've been looking for . Regards, Jaz
  9. Hi Gents, Whats your view on the following geometry setups, are they good , bad , expected or odd? FRONT Caster-Left 4.68, Caster-Right 4.89, SAI-left 11.16, SAI-right 11.03, Curve-toe-in-left 0.41, Curve-toe-in-right 0.75, Camber-angle-left -0.76, Camber-angle-right -1.02, Partial-toe-left 0.00, Partial-toe-right 0.00, Total -toe 0.00, Set-back 0.04, REAR Camber-angle-left -1.70, Camber-angle-right -1.85, Partial-toe-left 3.70, Partial-toe-right 3.50, Total-toe 7,20, Thrust-0.01, Set-back 0.39.
  10. WOW ! Thank you all for your quick response & detailed thoughts. I will stick with Euro/UK setup.
  11. Hi Gent, Can I seek your views for whether I should keep my front bumper lenses covers as the inherent forward facing -UK/Euro look or convert to the US (wrap) two lens setup for my black 930. Furthermore I shall be changing both (all four) to clear lenses. Indicative ( not pun intended) images below:. A- Euro lights: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b8/Porsche_930_Turbo_vl_black_EMS.jpg B- us lights: http://www.daveolimpiautomobiles.com/sold/porsche/87Porsche911TurboBlack/87Porsche911TurboBlack_4.htm A or B? Cheers, Jaz
  12. jaz

    no dipped beam

    So far, but still to no availability of the low beam from H4s, but still have full beams. From position 1 of headlight switch, I don't get a relay-click (even swapped in a new relay), but side lights still do switch on.. From position 2 of the headlight switch, I do get a relay-click & full beam (supported by blue indicator in dash) but still no low beam from the H4s. Replaced the relays with a new set, no voltage across low beam fuse. The indicator stalk is less than two years old, I'm edging towards to a new headlight switch now. Cheers, Jaz
  13. jaz

    no dipped beam

    Thanks Guys, A two- relay kit had been fitted two years ago. Fuses have been checked visually, but will check again with multi-meter for good measure , I will also check the bulbs. if the above checks out good then the pop without drama does seems more likely (I did recall a vague pop was not sure if I had over adventurous in pulling the switch into position 2 at the time of failure), how much should I expect to pay for the switch (s/h) and is it a simple swap out? Cheers, Jaz
  14. jaz

    no dipped beam

    Hi Guys, Probs with headlights lights. My dipped beams don't work anymore. When pulling the light switch to position 1 , the side lights comes, when pulling to position 2 the headlights don't. I can hear the relays click for each position 1 & 2 . The main/fog beam for the headlight (with blue light in dial) works fine. Could it be the light switch has failed , and would need replacing? Regards, Jaz
  15. Hi David, Paul Sage of Jota Engineering in Burstow. A first key start its simply fanstastic..put a smile on my face every time.
  16. Fixed: I'd polished up all the terminal/feeds to get the illumination working for both bulbs.
  17. Hi Guys, The bulb/illumination for the dash dials -( the far left one) for the combo fuel tank and oil pressure , has stopped working, despite the levels/metering still working. I've pulled the dial out to inspect both bulbs ..and both are working, it appears the power to both bulbs is at fault. This is my second inspection and though not a show stopper I'm still scratching my head,Any pointers would be much appreciated. Regards, Jaz
  18. FIX UPDATE: All fixed now, a new fuel pump (& CSV,) now gets the car starting off the first key start now. :mad jg:
  19. Hi Fred & IB Pals, I'm in the exact same boat from, except my voltage hits 16v+ with an active tach ( jumps from o to 7k rpm or just stays at 0rpm) at cold start for ten mins at the start of my morning journeys. I had a complete Alternator rebuild to include a new VR(internal) & bushes/bearings two weeks ago with a view to remedy the problem through my Independent servicer.. As a precaution for rot & explosion stemming battery vapour during overcharge I'd plugged a vacuum vapour tube from the battery to exterior on the weekend. I've cleaned the immediate battery to body earth strap,, battery terminals , both clamp connectors, and the alternator connections had been cleaned up by the Independent servicer.. Having search the forums My focus now goes to the starter earth straps, and esp. one from gearbox nose to body... The latter I tried cleaning tonite for only the visible exposed part to the body as I cannot access the strap &bolt to the nose of gearbox (because its behind the front gearbox mount) .. still no fix to further remedy for which I'm now seeking advise to whether I can simply connect another earth strap from one sump nut from the gearbox and to the body as bypass test without problems? Again any other advice is welcomed. FYI. on more positive note , my Independent has fixed my cold start problem through an installation of a new fuel pump, immobiliser correction & new CSV ..starts first time very time now hot or cold .. :mad jg: . Cheers, Jaz
  20. Have you ruled out flaky immobiliser connections , try putting a multimeter to the fuel pump circuit, do you get current measurements each time the immobiliser is turned off. you may need to take the immboliser out of the start/fuel pump circuit (for reconnection later) and see whether you can trace the problem.
  21. Thanks for your input here, it appears that the majority consensus is "its going to be noisy". As a I have stainless steel exhaust & heat exchangers in mine and the noise is already way above a level that I can't engage in mobile calls ( car stationary of course) I may need to look for a padded swapout (pref for a aluminium/mirror -esque finish) rather than a strip out . Cheers, Jaz
  22. Hi Guys, Have any of you's completed removed your engine /firewall sound-heat proofing? If so what are your verdicts? is there an alternative material that can be used to cosmetically & functionally to improve ? cheers, jaz
  23. Sure its not damp on the distributor & spark leads ... wd40is a quick fix, then check the resistance on each spark leads.
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