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About spuggy

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  1. My take? If you're having your mech fit and tune that TBitz kit, it'll end up costing you significant labour on top to dial it in, at a guess. Fitting the bits is only the beginning A "slight misfire" could be (or mean) lots of things? When? What circumstances/load/throttle setting, engine/ambient temps? Do you mean an actual misfire (losing cylinders), loss of power or response, a stumble? I'd probably be far more inclined to look at ignition first for that than fueling, the usual suspects like plugs, leads, cap, rotor, timing etc. Many people completely neglect lubricating the distributor for example, and the various service manuals don't mention this at all - so how many decades are they supposed to run bone dry again? Motor probably wouldn't run very well with a sticking advance unit, and the heat cooks all the lube out of them pretty good. Without lube down past the felt pad to the bottom, the bushes will wear and you'll never get stable or accurate timing. And springs are a moving part - they do weaken and wear out eventually. This can only be checked on a distributor machine - and is precisely why the factory put the advance charts in the manuals. With CIS, the suspect list seems to be injectors, WUR replacement/adjustment and hoses first, followed by the correct functioning of the multitude of funky valves etc. added over time, sensor plate and mixture adjustment. Fuel head is way down that list, usually - and seems like an odd diagnosis without more supporting information? There's literally 100's of Pelican threads about CIS, tuning and diagnosis, and a few recent ones asking for/offering fuel heads - including some NOS 2.7 and 3.0 ones. Starting point would be cold/hot control pressure, system pressure, system fuel flow (filter, pumps) ability to maintain pressure (fuel accumulator, pump check valve). If the fuel head regulates the correct system pressure (regulator valve) and flows fuel evenly from all ports, and there's no damage or wear to the piston or leaking (internally or externally), I'd be asking more questions. If your CIS is actually cobbled together with mis-matched parts from multiple year cars, you may find it cheaper to go with carbs or EFI - but otherwise, correctly diagnosing and rectifying what's wrong must be the simplest, easiest and cheapest route, surely? I'd be very leery of dismantling the fuel head, there's a thread on PP from a guy who took his apart and was trying to buy another one about 3 hours later... And you'll have to struggle to find the o rings.. Factory manual specifically says "do not disassemble", and you replace both the head and the piston as a pair if the piston is worn ("close tolerance part"). From a thread on Pelican ("fuel pouring out of exhaust pipe": "Someone suggested that the fuel distributor plunger is getting 'stuck' inside the fuel distributor bore. That is very possibly PART of what's happening. The plunger can be removed, but be very careful. DON'T drop it, here's why: The plunger and the bore are a PERFECT fit. So perfect in fact that fuel, at about 60 psi at the inside end of the plunger, does not leak out. No kidding. There is no o-ring. The fit between the plunger and the bore is so perfect that fuel under 60 psi does not leak out. If you remove it, clean it carefully and the bore and reassemble." Mine was rebuilt by Pacific Injection for $500. Imagine Auto supply US 930 fuel heads modified for more flow for the same money (they may be exchange units) - so they can be done, but it's specialist work. But if you do need a replacement, both tom1394racing (I bought my 930 dizzy from him) and Jim Williams (written some very detailed CIS troubleshooting guides, with helpful "rogue gallery" of photos for those) responded to a "Wanted, 80 SC fuel distributor" saying they had one. Even a few NOS ones about - to say nothing of all the ones taken off to go EFI, of course. And like David says, the phenolic intake stubs are notorious for cracking (especially on 930's) - get a fire extinguisher and spray something flammable (like ether) on top of the motor around the manifold connections and see if it speed up.... But hey, if you're all set to go EFI, why not? Be sure to post lots of pictures, datalogger output and before/after dyno charts...
  2. BW doesn't always say very much when he's working, but you should note every word. If he says it's pinking, I'd be listening very intently indeed. I found this link quite informative on the topic of detonation and pre-ignition generally: http://www.sacskyranch.com/deton.htm (Most light aircraft have manually-adjusted mixtures to cope with the affects of altitude or to compensate between cruise or climb power modes - they also tend to have instruments to monitor CHT and/or EGT, though). Detonation isn't the big bogeyman though - it's not instantly fatal (of course, you already know this! ). Small amounts of it under transient conditions will actually remove carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and don't cause any damage - if not too prolonged...
  3. When I did my 944 CV joints, I wanted to replace the bolts as a matter of principle, in case any didn't want to come out. Oddly - in retrospect - the 944 doesn't use Schnoor washers. Local OPC didn't have bolts in stock, but then I realised that the part had a (in descending order of price) Porsche, Audi and VW part number. Local Vee-Dub dealer had a set in stock, and they were 1/3 the price without the Porsche Tax...
  4. Ouch. Never good to break down... Weird it happened after that much use, normally they should be good if you check/re-torque them after a few 100 miles or so.. Do you have Schnoor washers and/or the moon plates? Did you use new Schnoor washers? Clean the threads and loctite? M8 or M10 bolts, and which torque rating did you use? Lot of good info on the fasteners and other issues in this thread. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=222537
  5. Hey SEE YA, if you've not been reading Pelican closely, thought I'd mention that Ben (mb911) is putting a kit together to use SSI HE's on a 930.
  6. Weird. Are they old-ish reflectors? A set of Bosch buckets from Pelican late last year behave perfectly with (older, probably original mid-80's) UK lenses. Maybe the lenses are a factor too? Lemme know if you get to the bottom of it and find a way to order the reflectors separately though - I'll then have a good surplus set of H4's as well as a set of H5's.
  7. There's some Hella driving lamps which are straight replacements for the front fogs, and they're pretty cheap. Other than the additional "marker" function for the benefit of other road users, I've rarely found front fog lamps to be useful in fog, they usually just create more glare...
  8. How d'you know the jets are clear? I've never had much luck blowing through them. And I certainly couldn't test the check valves like that, I was convinced the new ones were junk, hooked them up to the pump and tested them before fitting... If the motor runs and pushes liquid, it can only be the hose, jets or valves, no? My hose was like translucent yellow steel, so good luck pulling it off to troubleshoot anything - I just replaced everything when I was in there. And then spent twice as long adjusting the jets with a pin as I did on the rest of the job... I'm still not entirely convinced running the washer hoses with all the electrical gear behind the dash was such a great move on the factory's part, though...
  9. It's actually worse than you think. As you say, lenses and reflectors designed for halogen bulbs are completely unsuitable for HID - this isn't a drop-in conversion, and most of the kits offerend are actually completely illegal - they don't comply with either DOT or E-code regulations, and can't be made to do so.. Dan Stern is an automotive lighting engineer. He says that the aftermarket kits not only scatter light appallingly badly (tending to blind oncoming traffic), but that they can fool you into believing you can see better (because they are brighter) when you actually can't see as well as with a well-designed reflector, lens and bulb. Personally, I don't know why all you guys are whining about your lights, heh. I frequently drive unlit country roads with my 6 month-old Bosch H4's, and I never fail to think "these lights absolutely rock". I wouldn't drive any faster with an old-school rally array of 100w Cibies on the hood, because light is really not the limiting factor. Maybe you lot should consider switching out your 30 year old reflectors or summat...
  10. Where'd you get that info from, JG? When I look in PET, I don't see the reflector there at all - looks like you can't buy anything smaller than the complete assembly, unless it's a lens, trim ring etc.. I'd like another pair of H4 reflectors too (long story, involving some used H4's with painted reflectors, and a muppet in Germany who sold me ANOTHER set of silver-painted reflectors). In my ignorance that they're supposed to be different, I fitted the used UK lenses to a brand spanking new set of US H4's. Cutoff is laser-sharp on my garage door and in the country, and car passed an MOT just fine...
  11. Hahaha. I love the current reduction. Unfortunately, I think the biggest drawback with LED's is that you can't dim them. The LEDs might be OK for town (although, frankly, they look far too bright to me), but I turn mine down until they're about as bright as watch dials in the country or unlit motorway.
  12. spuggy

    Porsche 930 0-60 times

    Recorded 0-60 times vary wildly from source to source according to the degree of mechanical sympathy (or lack thereof), driver skill/technique, conditions, amount of cosmic radiation and other factors. The fact that the cars are pretty much identical mechanically 1980-1989 and develop the same power (but gained weight slowly throughout that period) should illustrate that pretty well. 50-150 is the only yardstick I really care about - except possibly 0-100-0.
  13. Hey SEE YA! What's up with yours, are they leaking exhaust into the cabin? Or just no heat (have you checked the hoses haven't slipped)? The factory stuff is stainless, right? (mine couldn't possibly have lasted 30 years otherwise, surely?) I have a complete '78 RoW (I believe RoW are identical '78 through '89) set of factory heat exchangers, cross-over pipe et al (to say nothing of turbo, wastegate, sump tank), good usable condition (85,000 miles) if you wanted to stay stock. I would, however, heartily recommend GHL, the design is clearly an improvement over factory, the quality is astonishingly good (221 stainless throughout, NOT the lesser 201 stainless), the welding is a work of art, they're polished and shiny and look tremendous. Added to which, Brian Gerber is very helpful and they build boost much faster and predictably than the stock system because they're far less restrictive - especially with a modern K27 variant. Absolutely transforms the car and the way it drives. They do boom a little more around 3000-4000 than stock, even with a factory muffler (I think it's through the walls of the headers themselves), but I like the sound - and it's a pretty clear indication that this isn't a Covin in your rear view... They're not cheap, but they are very nice indeed. My only niggle is that they don't postively blast heat out of the cabin vents like the factory ones did (no blower in the engine bay for a '78). I can deal with that, if that's the price for .5 bar @ 2,500 RPM... With the exchange rate, they'll cost a fraction of what a factory system would (they wanted 1800!!! POUNDS! POUNDS! Are you serious!! for the stubby little wastegate muffler when I asked OPC Guildford last year!). Few (or none) of the other high-end brands available for 930's are apparently made in the US anymore, and there's been a lot of discussion on Pelican how customer service, delivery, fit and everything else has suffered. Not to mention people complaining that they have to replace them after a year or two, because they crack, sometimes inside the H/E box. Someone even said that the design is what causes them to crack there. Nice... Or you could buy the very cheap headers from Going Super Fast or OBX/Schnelle, which, at the price, a lot of people find very tempting for what certainly appears to be a disposable item if you're buying low-end. They all seem to be the same part, but GSF has them available with heat for a few $100 US more. Read a few threads on PP and see what you think, it's worthwhile because it's pretty a substantial step, I think. The main obstacle for DIY is the fact that the exhaust studs get very, very, very hot (duh! because the EGT is 1650 degrees, perchance?) and can be a total pig to remove. They neck down and the threads disappear completely (like the ones on my wastegate did, which don't even look like fasteners anymore). If not done correctly (penetrating liquid over a period of time, heated cherry-red and faaaaast (with oxy) and shocked with an impact wrench seems to be the concensus), they're very prone to break off flush with the head - i.e. if you just soak with oil a couple of days and then use a breaker bar and give it some elbow. And then you would need to suck up to David on this board, because I think he broke one or two when he did his and bought the pukka jig to drill out the old stud properly. If they've been disturbed/replaced recently, it may not be that big of a deal. If they're original, I wouldn't touch it unless you're very gung ho and have all the tools and the inclination to spend up to a day or two under the car. Oh, and you'll certainly be dremeling the wastegate and the turbo fasteneres off the old system, if they're been on there very long. Fun, fun, fun!
  14. Whee, if Mike criticised my car, that'd have me worried. Unless I'd just been giving him gyp for talking funny, of course...
  15. Check the reply I just posted to your question on Pelican - those numbers don't seem to match anything. I also posted a link to the Sachs/Boge/ZF web catalog http://www.zf-trading.com - the "Boge" part number you posted matches a Sache part number format quite closely, but doesn't appear to be the number for a 86-89 strut... Their Porsche part numbers on the ZF site also seem a little funky i.e. don't match PET...

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