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rich73

Gruppe IB
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Everything posted by rich73

  1. Just make sure you use PPE and have plenty ventilation it's evil stuff!
  2. Looks great. Amazing he has the CAD skills, to me that's the key thing to getting the most out of it. What CAD package is he using? I'm just starting to learn Fusion 360 and can't believe it's available free to home and small businesses.
  3. Sensible starting price, got some interesting other items for sale as well. Tesla shell with V5, has an LS swap been done on a Tesla yet?
  4. Hope Axel's cars are well hidden 😬 . To be fair he's now uses a hot glue gun and a can of satin black as well as self tappers and corking gun.
  5. Hi there, 820g as pictured. Definitely stiff enough.
  6. No don't think so, the aluminium is though. You could always add strengthening to the back of the Foamex if it wasn't rigid enough.
  7. Heat gun then ran under cold water to set it.
  8. Hi There, I can try bending some Foamex tomorrow and let you know how it goes. I've got some leftover 5mm which seems about as rigid as MDF of equivalent thickness without the moisture issues. I used 2mm thick aluminium sheet to replace my foot boards which is really easy to work with and rigid enough. I would have thought that 5mm Foamex would be fine behind the pedals where all its doing if holing up the carpet but may be not be strong enough on the passenger side especially if the passenger starts braking for you. Rich
  9. Hi There, That's the mask that for spraying 2K which works really well. You do need to remember though that all the mask does is get the air to your face, you need to ensure the compressor feeding it has a clean air supply. The compressed air then needs to go through a 3 stage filter(£300 ish) to get the compressor oil etc out of it before you can breath it safely. The mask does use a lot of air, for spraying a single panel I can get away with a single 3ph compressor but for doing anything bigger I use a pair of 50 litre 3 hp compressors linked together. Getting the water out the air something you also need to do for a decent finish, a dryer was expensive last time I looked but I have a 10 meter run of copper pipe with drain off points that works well. I must admit the setup is a hassle but the finish and durability of 2K is amazing, I tend to use the following paint process for clear over base metallic : Prime with 2K epoxy primer(Lechler). Apply any filler required(UPOL Fantastic). Flat 2K epoxy primer again. 2K Spray filler(Lechler Green Ti) Flat ` 2K epoxy primer again. 1K base Coat 50% Coverage 1K base Coat 100% Coverage 1K base Coat 25% Coverage 2K Clear Coat 50% Coverage 2K Clear Coat 100% Coverage 2K Clear Coat 100% Coverage Rich
  10. I've been really tempted but in the end went for this. https://type911shop.co.uk/epages/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/de867ca1-377e-432e-84fd-bdccf2206766/Products/5783
  11. rich73

    Meet Rolf

    Bit more progress today. Interior lights were another thing that the roll cage got in the way of, cost of that cage fitting wasn't that great but there loads of little issues like this that I wanted sorting. Bought there boxes from maplin (RIP) to mount them in. Bit of Dremel action action.... Double sided tape to the roof and a bit of wiring. and another job crossed of the list. Rich
  12. I was told that if the black primer didn't come off with thinners/gun wash was then it was ecoat and to leave it on as it was better than any primer you could get for home use. That was years ago though and before epoxy primer was available. Rich
  13. rich73

    Meet Rolf

    Thanks Graham, That makes sense, should have realised that's the type of clip to use as when a bought replacement heater ducting it was that type of clip sold with them. Butler Technik were a great supplier for ducting and fittings for the A/C removal/ backdate by the way. Rich
  14. Thanks Chris, All sorted, I'd found that the black wire was a permanent live but was expecting to find a switched ground when the door opened and closed but this wasn't the case. I was opening and closing the drivers door and not seeing a switched ground. I checked the switch and found it wasn't connected. With this connected I now get an ground on the brown wire when I open either door. To Switch the lights on manually ground is supplied locally through the switch in the light. Looks like I'm missing bit of harness that I need to make up. Did find this place that made up wiring harnesses in my google fest , https://www.kroonwireharnesses.com/ Rich
  15. rich73

    Meet Rolf

    Hi there, Hadn't noticed it looks the same as the heater hose but I think its this stuff from Demon Tweeks; It is on my list of things to look at though as I don't think its sealing properly, the wire reinforcement stops you getting a proper seal with the jubilee clip. Rich
  16. Hi there , Just in the process of reinstalling the interior lights above the doors on my 87 3.2. Before I start tracing the wiring in depth does anyone know if this has anything to do with it? This is looks to be the only bit of wiring I have left up there. Connectors are wrong for the lights so could there be another loom that attaches to this? Car did have sunroof so these could be for that or possibly for the heated rear window. Any help welcome. Thanks Rich
  17. rich73

    Meet Rolf

    Strut brace and monoballs fitted too.
  18. rich73

    Meet Rolf

    Been a bit distracted by a house renovation over the past couple of years which is now hopefully hearing completion, but found this in the garage a couple of weeks ago. Did a do to list last week and got a couple of jobs our of the way. First was removing the A/C compressor bracket, this had been bugging me for quite some time. Another 1.1 Kg of mass reduction and things looking much better, will be selling the bracket if anyone's interested £30. I've like the looked of the combined jacking points, tow hooks for a while but wasn't convinced the ones I'd seen would fit the 3.2 due to the oil crossover pipe. Bit of hacking and came up with this; and for the front; Suspension is also together now, will try get some images of that later. Rich
  19. Must admit that I'd never neard of Classic Carrera Cars even though they're less than a mile down the road from me until this morning. Strangely a delivery driver saw my car on the drive and recommended them, then came in and saw this thread. Will pop in next week and see if they can do a geo setup. Rich
  20. Great progress, always found its good motivation having a box of shiny bits ready to go. Where abouts are you? Maybe worth a shout to see if anyone's close by and could give you a hand. Managed to drop engine/box this morning drama free with the help of a trolly jack and a few pallets, so happy to help if close by. Rich
  21. Hi Axel, Amazing buy, up there at the top of my list. My suggestion would be to watch Frank Kelly on YouTube a few times and just take it out is before turning it into a project. Have Fun
  22. Hi there, I strongly suspect its a scam based on the fact that engine is currently in my garage...... Yes just checked still there! Richard
  23. Thats great input thanks everyone. Was thinking that the zenith would be a simple jet replacement and job done so thanks for letting me know its far from simple. They do look great though. I'm thinking that selling the zenith with the engine is the way to go, it's not a particularly desirable engine and having the carbs with it will hopefully help it sell. Great to hear that 20s is possible with carbs and the pictures of the cars with carbs or itb really do look the part. I'm thinking the way to go is to sell the CIS and go for a new set of pmo 40s. Should be able get a set carried back from the US to help with the cost. Just saw a CIS system on ebay reach just over £250 on ebay and didn't sell so will try to get the engine going to sell the CIS as a known working to hopefully get more. Thanks again everyone Rich
  24. Hi there, I'm planning to make a start on a new project later this year and looking for some advice. I've picked up 1970 T that I'm planning to turn into something that looks like an ST but will be usable for long distance euro trips. Current engine in the car is mag case 1969 2.0T engine fitted with zenith carbs. Plan is to fit a 930/10 3.0 SC engine that I've already got that currently has CIS fitted. Initial plan was to sell the 2.0 engine complete with carbs, sell the CIS system and buy a new set of PMO 40s for the 3.0. Rationale being that the carbs would look period correct, sound good and be fixable on a trip if there was a problem. Starting to have reservations about this plan as the cost per 1000 miles/pain having to re-fuel frequently could be an issue if MPG is nearer 10 than 20 MPG, would be great if anyone had any real world experience of what to expect? Assuming the car was driven steadily. I'd also welcome opinions on the other options I have. First being to keep the 3.0 on CIS, presumably 20mpg, less noise on long trips, minimal cost, maintainable? Wouldn't look period correct but but how often would anyone actually see it. I've also thought about running the 3.0 on the zenith carbs. Would be grateful of any advice from anyone who's given this a go including cost. I'd probably try sell the 2.0 with the carbs first but if there wasn't much interest then consider using the zeniths. Throttle bodies and ECU? Like the idea of getting into this but may save it for another car as I'd like to keep this simple. Thanks Rich
  25. There seems to more of into on the US sites about A/C and how it can be improved . I did some research but removed mine in the end. I put it on ebay and got £15.49 for the whole system which is probibly good indicaton of its value. Plan is the next car will have electric A/C.
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