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About hotfrog

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  • Current 911
    SC 1981
  • Daily Driver
    LR Discovery Sport and Boxster S
  1. Many thanks Ian. I f I could get into a position of having a list of what is needed that would be a good starting point. The PET diagrams, unusually, seem a bit weak. The items are spilt into two for engine bay and I cannot find the line from the filter to the fuel distributor at all (the one with the hockey stick steel bend). Thanks again Ian and to all who have helped me with this.
  2. I am coming to this late. Sorry. I have read this thread from end to end. I have seen that Design 911 are selling: "Fuel pressure and return hose kit. " https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod137747/Fuel-pressure-and-return-hose-kit-Porsche-911-SC-1980-83/ at a total cost of about £525 inc VAT. It comprises 3 hoses being 91135608700, ...08900 and ...06610. Rosepassion in France https://www.rosepassion.com/en/pressure-line-P15590 is selling the same three hoses of unstated pedigree for £360 incl VAT and Fedex to UK. Question is, do these kits do the job and what other hoses do
  3. Thank you Ian. That is a mighty kind offer that may take you up on. I will try to find a likely supplier and get back to you. Thanks again. I have seen that in the parts list that early 911 seem to have flexible tubes as original for the tunnel pipes. Are there any views on this as by having flexible all the way will probably eliminates some couplings?
  4. Thank you Ian. That would be nice. I have Googled this subject numerous times and found some leads that I need to follow up.
  5. I wonder whether you may be able to help me to find AA Hydraulics in Leicester. I have Googled but only found a company of the same name in N Ireland. Many thanks for any help.
  6. You can add me to the list of blocked WUR. KMI overhauled mine in 2015. I have not yet changed any hoses / lines but getting round to it. I did however have a major contamination issue due to a defective fuel filter a while before the WUR overhaul.
  7. Great result. Very interesting commentary. Well done.
  8. If the line to the distributor is under vacuum, when you remove it the ignition will retard. This probably causes a change of engine speed and hence air and fuel demand. I may be grasping at straws but this could cause a cyclic change creating the conditions that you have described; a feed back loop. Whether my suggestion is valid is dependent on how much vacuum exists in the line to the distributor. The hunting at idle is another issue.
  9. Just a thought. My car is very sensitive to ignition timing when idling. Slight adjustment of timing has an impact on idle speed. So if car is hunting and vacuum may be affected it could feed back and cause a cyclic effect. Getting the idle mixture some where near right would seem to be important. You could verify this effect by pulling the vacuum advance pipe from the distributor.
  10. I made the rig as shown. The tubing is 4mm bore fuel hose from Amazon. The tee piece is brass from Amazon, you have to buy five. The unions are from an old pipe connecting the distributor to the WUR, removed some time ago. The gauge was in an old box. There is no shut off valve, you just clamp the tube to the WUR with a tube clamp (as used for brake hoses etc.) to see the system pressure. I used crimped clips to secure the plastic tubing, but small jubilees will do OK. This set up gave reliable and repeatable results. You need to take a view about the residual pressure test as t
  11. As previously. I have dealt with KMI several times and they have been good with a high quality service. Time flies. Checked emails: KMI overhauled my WUR in 2015 and it was £186.00 + Carriage + VAT. The turnaround time was 14 days.
  12. I find all of this intriguing. Driven by curiosity I rigged up a gauge yesterday and took some readings. Unlike your issues our car is running well and starts well in all situations. The only anomaly I found during my tests was that the cold control pressure was low which would make the car over rich on a cold start. With car not having run for several days, I rigged the gauge and unplugged the WUR heater and the control pressure was 1.2 bar (low). Engine block temperature was 21C. I then plugged the WUR heater in and after just a few minutes like this the control pressure rose to
  13. Well done. Hope that things will now be better.. It is amazing that this stuff has got throgh the fuel filter and the fuel distributor. Mine was worse than yours but I had the WUR overhauled at the same time.
  14. The gauze filter is part of the WUR inlet union (control pressure) connection. You can remove it without opening up the WUR or even taking it off car. You need a deep socket for preference. When I cleaned mine it had stuff caked onto it that was difficult to remove. An ultrasonic cleaner would be best.
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