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  • Location
    Scottish Highlands

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  • Current 911
    84 Carrera Sport Cabriolet
  • Daily Driver
    Audi A6avant
  • Lottery Car
  • Drive of your life
    Nurburgring in GT3RS

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  1. Wow, Just did a Google search and looked at the photos of the city ........ looks beautiful and interesting, to say the least! Am I right in thinking it's only about 120 km south of Leipzig? I reckon that could easily be a destination for 2019 ........... Very, very best of luck with the new venture. I presume you won't be leaving the IB forum. john c
  2. Are they "at the wheels" figures, or "corrected" figures for the flywheel? I guess the former. Good result all the same. Well done. john c
  3. The i3 is interesting. A good friend and multiple Porsche owner who stays in the same village has recently acquired one for his daily commute into Aberdeen, a round trip of 90 - 100 miles. He reckons it costs him less than £2 per day to charge at home each night and is free if he charges it in Aberdeen. He has only twice started the "range extender" engine, not to get charge, but to keep it from lying idle for too long. I've driven it a couple of times and it is absolutely amazing. As "Reddevil" said the acceleration is mega, it's extremely comfortable to drive and for town driving looks to be THE answer. The "looks" are a bit quirky and have grown on me. My only concern is the longer term economics of ownership. My friend is leasing his, so depreciation and servicing are not an issue, but the purchase price is high (>£35k I believe) and I shudder to think what a new set of batteries might cost if it were outside the warranty period. And, I suspect tyres will be expensive because they are such an unusual size (20 x 155 or thereabouts!). If you can afford it I suspect leasing a new one is the way to go at this stage in their development. Alternatively sell it before the warranty expires. Be interesting to hear what you decide and how the good Lady gets on with it, if you go ahead. Do please keep us posted. best regards john c
  4. Max Here's the link to the coloured wiring diagrams I mentioned. Great thing is they are year specific and for US market cars (not so good for Euro cars!) www.colorwiringdiagrams.com john c PS have sent you a PM as well.
  5. Easy answers first: Those side marker lights are US spec markers and come on as you say with the side lights ....... I've rewired mine to be indicator repeaters. Easy enough job but it does cause the indicators to flask slightly more quickly. If you used a very low powered LED bulb in the repeater that would probably be better. My understanding is that the change in not necessary for MOT and tester will just take note of an amber light showing continuously to the side of the vehicle which is not illegal. The wee bulb at the rear is again the US spec rear marker light and is on when the side lights are on. IF you have US spec lenses the indicator section is red and when you indicate at night the wee bulb stays alight (and shows red) and the indicator is also red. This is I believe not legal in the UK and indicators are supposed to be amber. Simplest solution is to remove the wee bulb and the plastic diffuser between the two bulbs and change to Euro lenses. Rear Euro lenses are expensive (near £300 for the pair from Mittelmotor in Germany) However, another solution some UK owners with US spec 914s have discovered is to change the indicator bulb to a green one (and remove the wee bulb and the plastic lens/diffuser between it and the indicator bulb). Apparently, a green bulb shows amber through a red lens. (I've no personal experience, so can't confirm) No, there is adjustment in the calliper as well and they have to be properly set up and adjusted. I strongly recommend you get a copy of either the works Workshop Manual or the Haynes Manual which details the procedure. There is also adjustment on the cables beside the seat. Yes, I have it as well ...... it's annoying, but it does remind you the ignition is on! Again I suggest you get a manual with a US spec wiring diagram and you can trace it back and disconnect if you wish. I obtained a coloured wiring diagram from a garage in the states which is much easier to read than those in the workshop manuals. I'll post up a link when I can find it. Hope this helps ..... the adventure has just started.!!!!! BTW Have you made contact with Kevin Clark (PCGB 914 register secretary) - He is an absolute walking encyclopaedia on everything 914. Suggest you do. Also have a look at the 914 UK facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/457980697677634/ and the BEST worldwide on line information is "914 World" There is a huge list of topics on there, mostly US but also very international as well Good Luck john c
  6. Hi Max I've also got a 1973 1.7 which is pretty close to bog standard except for the seats. I think it's my 10th 914 and only a year younger than my first which was back in 1974. Have acquired a reasonably thorough knowledge over the years so if there is anything I can help you with please drop me a note. I'd be delighted to help in any way I can. The 914 is a great exercise in the "conservation of momentum" ........ getting it moving and don't slow down for anything - the road holding is so good that you don't need to :-) Pics were taken late last year just before the winter got underway. Very best of luck. john c
  7. That does look like a good one. Well done and welcome to this incredible forum. Hope you have a long and happy life together, driving it! john c
  8. But surely that will have been built for a customer. I'm sure if you can afford one you can have it finished (interior trim and exterior colour) in anything you want. But, that carbon tub and inboard suspension is mega. Dream on for me ........ john c
  9. Leave those oil lines exposed, please. Looks absolutely fabulous.
  10. Hood is also later post 85, 3.2 type, original had the much larger rear window (shaped like a targa). Kick plates are different (side to side) so some work in the cill area may have already been undertaken and if botched makes the kidney repairs more extensive/difficult. Pity there's no picture of front boot / battery area. If the wings are rusted that's usually a sign of crud being allowed accumulate, and it's highly likely there will be crud in and around the impact bumper shocker brackets / battery box as well. A knowledgable inspection would be money well spent, me thinks, but who knows (from the pics) - it could be a good buy, but buyer be very aware. Good luck if you go ahead. john c
  11. Sewing machines perhaps? Or have I got my threads crossed?
  12. You may or may not have seen this, but as it covers some of our cars it's of interest. Looks as if there might still be a few grey areas but it's reasonably straighforward. The key seems to be to have a sensible MOT tester. best to all john c see: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/670431/vehicles-of-historical-interest-substantial-change-guidance.pdf
  13. Many thanks SP72, (Sorry don't know your real name). john c
  14. Mark, They look terrific. Where is Chris at Excel Wheels? Would I be right in thinking he's down your way somewhere? Mine need a refresh so am interested to make contact with him. Many thanks john c
  15. Ducktail - Please pass on my thanks to Mr Sam Sung - "Long may his pencil remain sharp and, full of lead" 歌われるサムそんなにありがとう。 私はあなたに非常に感謝して、 私の車のあなたのreimagingを秘蔵する。 私は非常に幸せなクリスマスおよび 健康で、幸せな繁栄している新年を過すことを望む。 私達がスコットランドで長くかもしれないあなたの 鉛筆鋭く」残る「再度感謝する言うので And thank you to you too for instigating and facilitating this wonderful thread. Have a great Christmas and a healthy happy and, even prosperous, New Year. Thanks again john c
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