Leicestershire

Early RS were on aluminium frames, later were on steel. Some have been recreated by peeling the lid from a standard engine cover and binding a duck to the frame. The late Chris Flavel made mine using a regular G Series steel frame and a '73 RS copy duck. The recreated items don't tend to rust as they are on e+coated frames. It could be an '74 Carrera option duck, a genuine RS or just a botched recreation.

I have had the same thoughts about selling for about 5 years. If you can hang on, now is not the best time to sell a classic 911. Prices are a bit soft and stuff seems to move slowly. Be prepared for a random assortment of wheel kickers and general time wasters. The only other advice I can offer: Once you get out of a classic 911, it's very difficult to get back in. There are many past owners that sold cars 12 or so years back and now wish to get back into 911's but can't stomach the price rise.

This sounds very similar to an early 'Striker' front end.

As above then look at drive shafts/CV joints, differential bearings and then start working back deeper in the gearbox.

If your oil system is in good health without sludge blocking everything unscrew the drain plug let the oil drain into a container. When it almost stops dripping, replace the container with another empty tray and leave the drain plug removed for a couple of days. Eventually, the oil cooler and lines will drain back into the tank/ crankcase. Just be careful when you start to drive the car after the oil change. Once it gets up to full temperature and the thermostat opens, the level in the tank will drop by around 1.5 litres.

The bolts at the ends of the engine bar typically seize resulting in the ends of the bar bending. Don't forget if you try to change the mounts with the wheels on the floor, the suspension will raise as you try to unscrew the bolts. With the correct sockets it a very easy job.

Do it this way if you want..... This guy makes it look like hard work. Plastic rivet - don't use a tool as shown in the video, you will probably break the rivet. Put your arm up the inside of the B Post and feel for the rivet. Use rear edge of a drill bit to push the inner pin of the rivet in and catch it your hand. Then push the body of the rivet out from the inside of the B Post. Don't remove the metal trim from the assembly. From the inside of the car gently roll the screen seal back a lubricate with silicone spray (pure silicone not a silicone and lubricant) Start from the rear edge of the car gently push from the rear edge of the glass. As you push help the rubber over the edge of the aperture. If you have a spare person, they can help using a suction cup on the outside and pulling as you push. If you know what you are doing it's sub 15 mins to get a stubborn one out. It's a very easy way into the car if the keys get locked inside.

I beg to differ over the factory not using sealant between the glass and rubber. Vaseline will degrade the seal. Use silicone spray. Fitting the aluminium trim into the seal before fitting the assembly to the car will avoid the need for mallets and carpet.

Sorry, I don't know what was used back in the factory. You can buy glazing putty in gun tube and I have often thought about giving it a try but over the years, I have done countless 911 screens and never had anything leak between the glass and the rubber. I guess the modern alternative would be to run a fine bead of silicone in the bottom of the seal before fitting the glass. Silicone would also be much easier to clean without leaving any marks on the rubber.

Trim is held in with self tapping screws. All G cars including 3.2's have plastic washers under the trim. If they aren't there then either missed at factory (unlikely) or lost during previous work. Porsche used a type of glazing putty to seal the glass inside the rubber seal.

Failure to proceed has been a bit of a JLR failing for a number of years. The more recent electronics issue have been in connection with vehicle security resulting in countless vehicles being stolen and certain models being uninsurable. Over the years I have employed and worked with several LR employees. The stories of bodgery are difficult to comprehend on 'premium' vehicles.

Rusty bolts - buff the top flush spray in wax oil a return in a week otherwise use oxy-gas torch and do the job properly.

Open cell foam. I replace these with air filter foam. If you have a sunroof car you can possibly replace the foam with removing the rear screen.

Around 2016 the road tax brackets changed making most hybrids eligible for full road tax. My wife has a lexus hybrid - Toyota in fancy dress. I look at it as all the benefits of a diesel without any of the disadvantages. It's almost silent, around 60 mpg, low cost servicing and the reliability of an anvil. It will only travel around 5 miles and max speed of 40 mph on electric power. That's enough for most trips through town. It continually uses electric assistance during normal driving to maximise efficiency. Paying a bit of road tax is a small price for easy motoring. However if driving is your thing you are going to need something else for weekends to put the fun back into driving.

If using a new seal fit it to the glass and place on a flat surface somewhere warm overnight then fit the trim.