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sladey

Gruppe IB
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    1,595
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About sladey

  • Rank
    IB Glitterati

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Nottingham

Previous Fields

  • Daily Driver
    My 911
  • Lottery Car
    904 GTS rep that I would build myself
  • Day Job?
    Solicitor/Web designer
  • Favourite Food
    Scrambled eggs & Smoked Salmon

Recent Profile Visitors

909 profile views
  1. It's been great - I had some initial problems because I bought a second hand unit and it was having difficulty reading the throttle signal (from memory it was struggling with noise in the signal caused by dodgy earth) - Dave at Canems swapped it out for a new version which was wired differently and everything was smooth from then on. I had envisaged tweaking the maps and playing with the settings but once it was set up I just drove it. Performed faultlessly in a fast jaunt around the alps last september
  2. IIRC mine is around 265 bhp on Wayne’s rollers (done in November2017) - I was pissed off at the time because on the 9m ones it had been 272 and climbing so I didnt take a picture of the readout and don’t know where it is now In view of this thread I’m pleased with the 265 Mines a 3.2 with 993 H/e’s, Turbo Thomas single out back box, canems ECU, canems dizzy replacement thingy, and Canems MAF On a trip to the alps last September it didn't lack speed or power
  3. That floor will be cool. Just to chip in - I’ve been running Canems setup for a few years now and it’s been great A few years before that, CHTS buggered my car up for a good 6 months of problems - was hard to diagnose- we thought we had done the tests but we hadn’t let the engine get up to temperature to thought it was OK.
  4. From memory 30 or 32mm with a deep socket worked for me
  5. I’m also just trying to be helpful and I’m not saying I’ve got the answer either. You might be best PM’ing Barry over on DDK as he knows so much about these cars
  6. I’ve got an older single in single out from TT - but it was custom made as I’ve got 993 H/E’s I’ve generally found that twin outs on a 3.2 give too much drone - just around the 3000 rpm mark (where you tend to do a lot of your driving) - switching to single out eliminated that
  7. Just caught up with this thread again - some great work here and impressive to see how your skills have improved. It’s interesting when you first look at a rusty mess it seems impossible but when you break it down to it’s component parts it starts to make sense. Re: putting it back on the wheels etc my feeling would be NO. The doors are your best datum for the door gaps and you’ve set it up for those gaps etc. I would weld it up in the position you locked it into. If you drop it onto the wheels at this stage and it sags you are then going to have to try and straighten a jelly mold by jacking it up in the middle before welding it “straight” - I think you would then be in a world of pain. Logically you already have it in position now - don’t lose that position. Jon Miller of Classic Carreras advised me similarly on my build - start from the doors and work outwards. My only other suggestion would be to try and focus on getting one area completely finished before moving on to the next bit - e.g. get the sills all done and buttoned up before starting the rear wing issues or windscreen issues. Psychologically parts of the car will look like a car again instead of everything looking like a project. Just my 2 penny’s worth and I appreciate we are all different. One last point - on your rear spring plate mounts you can also buy strengthening pieces from elephant racing - these are additional plates that go around the 4 mounting holes. I’m revisiting the rear of my car at the moment and I’m going to pop them on - as a belt and braces sort of thing. You may feel it’s not needed on yourself as you’ll have so much new metal in that area anyway. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming
  8. Really sorry to hear this Fraser - glad you're unharmed. Fingers crossed your insurers play ball
  9. Awesome result Shirish - bet you can't wait to get out in it
  10. I'm also up for it subject to price
  11. I’ve had similar symptoms for a while - if I start up the headlights, heater motors and leccy windows don’t work. It was intermittent but now it’s every time. It is my ignition switch. Just turn the switch back a gnats once it’s started and everything works. Replacing the ignition switch is on my todo list
  12. Good call on the gift - just ordered a Makita one for myself for Christmas
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