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sladey

Gruppe IB
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    1,591
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About sladey

  • Rank
    IB Glitterati

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Nottingham

Previous Fields

  • Daily Driver
    My 911
  • Lottery Car
    904 GTS rep that I would build myself
  • Day Job?
    Solicitor/Web designer
  • Favourite Food
    Scrambled eggs & Smoked Salmon

Recent Profile Visitors

858 profile views
  1. I’m also just trying to be helpful and I’m not saying I’ve got the answer either. You might be best PM’ing Barry over on DDK as he knows so much about these cars
  2. I’ve got an older single in single out from TT - but it was custom made as I’ve got 993 H/E’s I’ve generally found that twin outs on a 3.2 give too much drone - just around the 3000 rpm mark (where you tend to do a lot of your driving) - switching to single out eliminated that
  3. Just caught up with this thread again - some great work here and impressive to see how your skills have improved. It’s interesting when you first look at a rusty mess it seems impossible but when you break it down to it’s component parts it starts to make sense. Re: putting it back on the wheels etc my feeling would be NO. The doors are your best datum for the door gaps and you’ve set it up for those gaps etc. I would weld it up in the position you locked it into. If you drop it onto the wheels at this stage and it sags you are then going to have to try and straighten a jelly mold by jacking it up in the middle before welding it “straight” - I think you would then be in a world of pain. Logically you already have it in position now - don’t lose that position. Jon Miller of Classic Carreras advised me similarly on my build - start from the doors and work outwards. My only other suggestion would be to try and focus on getting one area completely finished before moving on to the next bit - e.g. get the sills all done and buttoned up before starting the rear wing issues or windscreen issues. Psychologically parts of the car will look like a car again instead of everything looking like a project. Just my 2 penny’s worth and I appreciate we are all different. One last point - on your rear spring plate mounts you can also buy strengthening pieces from elephant racing - these are additional plates that go around the 4 mounting holes. I’m revisiting the rear of my car at the moment and I’m going to pop them on - as a belt and braces sort of thing. You may feel it’s not needed on yourself as you’ll have so much new metal in that area anyway. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming
  4. Really sorry to hear this Fraser - glad you're unharmed. Fingers crossed your insurers play ball
  5. Awesome result Shirish - bet you can't wait to get out in it
  6. I'm also up for it subject to price
  7. I’ve had similar symptoms for a while - if I start up the headlights, heater motors and leccy windows don’t work. It was intermittent but now it’s every time. It is my ignition switch. Just turn the switch back a gnats once it’s started and everything works. Replacing the ignition switch is on my todo list
  8. Good call on the gift - just ordered a Makita one for myself for Christmas
  9. Thanks Nige but I think I'd be hard pressed to spot differences anyway. On prices I've got so far we're talking a £600 difference so I think I'll be going with Dansk
  10. ONly just spotted your reply Jon. I’m getting someone else to fit this one. I’ll bear that in mind when comparing price
  11. Thanks for that Nige - on the other side it was an original Porsche panel and that needed a fair bit of tweaking
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