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  • Current 911
    1983 SC Sport Coupe

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  1. Hi everyone, I wondered if someone had some knowledge on the setting up of the ignition timing. After engine rebuild, I installed the distributor as Wayne Dempsey's book, with the rotor arm pointing in the correct position with the piston at TDC on no.1 cylinder. When I check the timing with a strobe light I can't get the Z 5 mark to line up with the fan housing as the slot in the distributor body is at it's limit with the lock bolt, it's about 7 or 8 BTDC. If I originally installed the distributor one tooth wrong on it's drive gear, and I remove it and rotate it one tooth will
  2. Welcome. SCs are great. You will probably get addicted. Enjoy.
  3. Thanks, yes oil pressure was maintained.
  4. Hi all, I started the SC engine today for the first time after it's rebuild. I built up the oil pressure and circulated the oil with the fuel pump relay and the connector to the CD box removed. After re connecting it started ok and ran well although I think the ignition timing could be a bit out. I ran it for 20 mins at 1800/2000 rpm, unfortunately I wasn't expecting the oil thermostat to open and I ended up with an oil leak at the front cooler unions which I didn't notice straight away. My concern is that as the oil cooler and pipes filled up there wasn't enough oil circulating
  5. I've not seen mine at it's proper ride height for years as the engine has been out for a rebuild along with everything else. Hopefully will drop it onto it's wheels with everything re fitted later this week. They do look ridiculous sitting way too high at the back.
  6. Thanks, the cams are the originals, but if it starts I will only run it for 10 minutes or so just to prove it. Should I let it tick over for 10 mins or should I increase the revs a bit after it's warm? I can't drive it to bed in the rings as the car is not MOT'd yet, and I'm concerned about glazing of the rings /bores if I keep running it without driving it.
  7. Hi all, hoping to try to start the engine after it's rebuild tomorrow. Quick question, I intend to remove the coil lead and turn the engine over on the starter to try to build up oil pressure and to get the oil round. Should I also remove the fuse for the fuel pump until I'm ready to reconnect the coil lead and go for a proper start? Also, as it's been an obscene number of years since I started a 911, would you expect to see oil pressure on the gauge before or after it fires? Thanks
  8. Yep, I'm another with a black headlining. I fitted a new Classic Line one when the car was repainted. It's looks great in black. I used vinyl dye to do the visors from cream to black.
  9. I'm late to comment on this one but I removed the engine on it's own and it was difficult. I removed the gearbox at a later date and when I re installed into the car I mated the engine and gearbox together first and it was relatively easy.
  10. Just spotted a rather nice Martini SC which features heavily in Dempsey and Makepeace tonight on Forces TV.
  11. When my car was last in one piece some years ago, I remember the same problem, but when the gearbox got hot it was a peach. But it took a long time to get hot enough to be a nice smooth change.
  12. Hi Phil, many thanks for the offer, very much appreciated however I will pass for now. I've managed to set them with a standard feeler and I'm going to look into the Kirk tool that has been mentioned as the next time the engine will be in the car. Thanks, this sounds good, I will look into it.
  13. Thanks Phil. I was concentrating on the tool supplier websites and completely forgot about Type 911. I'll add one to my next order of parts.
  14. Does anyone know where I can buy a 90 degree feeler gauge in the UK (0.004") used for setting valve clearances? I saw one used on a 911 rebuild video recently, went looking for one, couldn't find them anywhere. Other thicknesses are available but no 0.004" at all. Using a normal feeler gauge just doesn't work if you want to go back and double check as you just can't feed a flat one back in the gap.
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