clarkycat
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The heater, wing and various other bits will be off the car and in your hands once you get cracking, am not saying you should forget them but once the car is stripped for work and stuff like that is in boxes and on the shelf, your attention will be very much elsewhere. If you want it at £5k get in there ASAP (£5k + £20k will give you a £25k car). The risk here is someone who has NOT done their research will wade in and offer £10k. I know as I've been that guy!
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Hi guys, I pointed Lancs here after he posted on the uk911 forum (which has a very quiet 3.2/SC section due to here!). Am glad you are taking care and giving advice. I feared my 'I bought my 993 for less than the money I'd have needed to spend on my 3.2's bodywork' would sound over the top and I am glad I see similar (and higher) costs mentioned here. Of course we all hope any car turns out to be good, and I sincerely hope this one is, as he has fallen for it and does want it to be good. I just wish someone had pointed me here BEFORE I bought my 3.2, as I would have bought a different car and still been here, but naively buying an impact with rot can kill it for you forever. I will continue to point any lost 3.2/SC souls to this forum as it was very good to me in my short 3.2 ownership.
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Ok guys, you know your stuff, price this up please:
clarkycat replied to clarkycat's topic in 3.2 Carrera
Ha! you did not even have new rear wings, and they are well cheap to buy and cheaper still to fit! I want a rot free car. I need one front wing (the other is only ten years old and fine) but i'm getting both swapped. I need NS Kidney (the driver side is fine) but i'm doing both. I need one rear wing (other is fine) but i'm getting both. I believe with cars if you have a broken one of a pair, the other will go out in sympathy. Longterm planned ownership, i want something that will be good for at least ten years, if you break down the cost then it's gotta be cheaper than a bit here, and a bit of paint every two years in that period, right? -
Want an idea, i have a price and need to decide to just enjoy the car or just pull the trigger and go for it. (I'm supplying front and rear bumpers and both front wings.) If i go for a full restoration ( ) i have in mind: Full strip down of car/ interior/ glass/ everything. New front wings, new rear wings, new bowls, sills, new B pillars, lower windscreen section. Full respray. Reassemble of car, underseal and sound deadening. All other parts (wings,bowls etc) need to be included in the price, plus some fabrication of inner wing at the front. What you think? £? Firstly, i'm not doing any of it myself. Secondly the car is not in terrible condition and i could use it for many years with a wing and the one bowl done. I'm just wondering as you guys will have the best collected knowledge on price should i go the whole hog. Oh, and where you'd be taking it.
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This is my thinking on mine, i've been very lucky to source a new front one for £200 and i have a good used rear ready to go on with a very small (compared to mine) area of corrosion. A basic understanding of capillary action in fluid leaves me in no doubt water will have spread inches and maybe feet further inside the laminate than i can see or anybody could prep or paint.
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If there's a loop at the front then i'm happy with that. I come from Lotus cars, The Esprit has no tow points at all, you can't pull it from the front and from the back you have to throw straps around the chassis. The Elise had a screw in eye at the front and nowhere at the back - so for me having one end to tug is totally fine. When you say it won't ever look right, is there something other than the tow eye bung that makes it different to look at? Cheers, Paul
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Hi, My rear bumper is pretty bad and i have a very good SC bumper to go on. Just realised i lose the tow eye. Is this an issue? And Is there one at the front? And Is there a place in the car the screw in loop is hidden? Ta,
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fibreglass front and rear impact bumpers, anyone used them?
clarkycat replied to clarkycat's topic in Impact Driver Chat
As the starter of the thread i've been quiet, but it's as i was chasing some ally originals and wanted to know the outcome before commiting (i've seen it before on car forums, the big list of names for a group buy dropping in numbers as the production day looms, i wanted to be certain). For my part i have now got a brand new front bumper and an excellent used rear, both for £300 so i saved a lot on buying two new ones from Porsche (if available). Cheers for the replies and am glad it spawned help and for others and someone willing to make them. wings, bumpers, seals, other bits, It feels like i'm building another 911... -
OK, these are about a 5th of the cost of the aluminium ones, Is there a good reason why a forum search does not produce threads of you guys jumping up and down with joy over the fact you won't be chasing rot around laminated ally for the rest of your lives, as to me it seems like a good idea and takes the stonechip metal-rot horror away from that area. I'm guessing there is finishing and fetting, but it can't be any worse than the time trying to repair an original, and still expecting it to rot back at some stage? Was looking at the club autosport ones BTW
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Alan's 86 3.2 restoration
clarkycat replied to Alan Brown's topic in Body Restoration - resto threads only
really gives me inspiration mate, i have an '86 D twin of yours: And it's going in for near identical work, both front wings, both bowls and sills, and a rear wing too. I'd be very interested if you could PM me your total cost, just for my own interest. Mine has sports black leather BTW, what have you? -
I'm into spending over £8k on wings, sills, kidneys, a pillars and countless other bits all over the car, all to stop the bubbles... ...then after that amount of work and money... ...i'm getting it painted. You have answered your own question on the prep i think mate. I've been spoilt with 13 years of plastic cars and the cost of my respray is really incidental unless i get all the rot properly out, meaning panels off or cut. I had a £6k all in quote from one place that was quite simply not expensive enough (parts, labour, paint) to cover the work that was needed... Currently, if i could put my front door on Ebay i would, the cost is high and i'm having to find the dough, but i'll get the car i want that was not available for sale.
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'86 oil level sensor wiring at sender end
clarkycat replied to clarkycat's topic in Electrics including starting/charging
In a way. Now i have the guage working i can tell the sender is sh4gged! The needle does not move and the resistance across the sender terminals does not change when the car is cold and tank empty right through to when the car is warm and idling, ergo, it's bu99erd. Am not rushing at changing the sender, i can see the gasket plate and what to do, but on reading up it's not accurate enough to trust without popping the lid and looking so it's just easier to check the oil manually anyway, right?, yep i'm glad it does not work really, that way i stay a winner, right? One of my Esprits had such a dodgy fuel guage (two tanks, tiny balance pipe, a single sensor in the side of one of them with a crap inaccessable earth) i used to fill up and zero the mileometer... ...for 6 years. -
'86 oil level sensor wiring at sender end
clarkycat replied to clarkycat's topic in Electrics including starting/charging
Got it! Pulled the rear light and then i un plugged the wires from the oil sensor and pulled the wires back into the light opening. The ground wire to the sensor was snapped, it seems that without a ground wire connected that the sender wire shoots the needle up. replaced the wire and bingo! needle now at the bottom (engine cold). -
'86 oil level sensor wiring at sender end
clarkycat replied to clarkycat's topic in Electrics including starting/charging
Cheers, thats not clear in the manual. Will dig deeper. BTW do you think the shorted/trapped wire theory is on the right track? I figure if the needle shoots up when the ground is attached despite the sender being disconnected then this has to point to that? Ta, Paul -
Hi there, Here's what i know: 1, The needle is up all the way to the top. 2, the +ve (red/black) is good. 3, The green/white -ve from the sender short to earth at the dial end. Ergo: When i pull the sender wire from the guage it goes down, when i re-attach it goes all the way up. My diagnosis is that (like on my Esprit) the guage uses resistance to earth, dead short being high reading. So the sender wire is getting to my guage fully shorted. Right? OK, i pulled both wires off the tank sensor, i expected the needle to drop but the sender wire is shorted still at the guage. So i'm guessing i'm looking for a point where the sender cable is damaged and shorted to the body? Anyone know where in the engine area the green/white cable from the guage changes to the braided heatproof one that arrives at the sensor? I figure (if all i've said above makes sense) thats a good place to start? Cheers,