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richard s

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Harpenden Herts
  • Interests
    Biking (mountain and road), surfing, windsurf, fettling old cars

Previous Fields

  • Current 911
    '84 3.2 Cabriolet
  • Daily Driver
    Merc E cabrio, Mini R55 Clubman, Swift Rio MoHo
  • Lottery Car
    Singer 911
  • Day Job?
  • Drive of your life
    Evo triangle N Wales - and bits of the A5 ditto!

Recent Profile Visitors

431 profile views
  1. Great to see that you've stuck with Webby, I'm still a relative newby after only 10yrs with my '84 cab (maybe why I haven't named it yet?), looking forward to you posting some progress photos. I'm sure that it benefitted from the JZM top end overhaul, a great long term investment, however on my 'cab the omission of the small one way valve/restrictor in the crankcase/oil tank breather pipe also caused the engine to stall when the filler cap was removed to check oil level, although fair to say my compression ratios are down a bit on spec on several cylinders.
  2. Roy - a beer in the sun sounds good! I'd seen the eBay add too - it's a different model and looking at wiring diagram photo not a lot of use. I had thought to mail the seller and ask for a scan of the full diagram - a bit cheeky? I think Chris has the right idea - just remove it.
  3. Roy, thanks - so I just need to locate the black wires - sounds easy! Richard
  4. Guys - thanks as always for your help. Another afternoon on this - the good news is the problem seems to have resolved itself - albeit after more connectors cleaning/resetting, battery terminal clean and tighten, etc - so I'm not sure what (if anything) actually fixed it. I suppose the bad news is that I'm not really convinced that's it and will always have in the back of my mind that it may just cut out again! So, I've traced the wiring - the unit is under the driver side dash, hidden behind the heater blower unit. Sadly it isn't the official Porsche or Hamilton Palmer model like Roy's or Graham's - its an "AutoJack 10E Ref LBSTY" (completely sealed tubular unit 5 or 6 wires in/out)) which is quaintly described on the internet as "classic vintage immobiliser" and apparently are no longer in existence (one internet thread suggests bought by Toad). My conundrum now is do I just trust to luck and hope it remains OK, or strip it out and replace. The latter may be more difficult than it sounds as the wiring has been quite professionally integrated into the loom and largely lost amongst the tangle of other owner retrofit radio, speakers, phone etc cabling. I'll see if I can find a reliable AutoJack wiring diagram before I do anything further. Thanks again, Richard
  5. Guys, Thanks for the advice - I'll go through the fuses, but strange it fires and runs fine for a short time, then dead, then re-inserting the immobiliser key re-energises everything. I'll time the start to stop period - they are all pretty consistent. I've spent some of today going over all remaining earth points in desperation! I'll see if I can locate the immobiliser by tracing wiring - I'm not sure what I'm looking for, but the only items under the passenger seat are the ECU, altitude module and the DME so it's not there! I'll let you know how I get on. Richard
  6. Guys - your help please! Now that we in the UK are allowed to venture little further afield, I'm dusting off my '84 3.2 Carerra Cab - MoT planned next week etc. After an immediate startup and completely normal running for c10 mins, I'd left the car idling whilst I checked oil levels etc - when it just cut out, with all systems completely dead. I went through the start up sequence again - insert immobiliser jack, little red light flashes quickly, remove jack, ignition on, gauges spring into life, energise starter motor, engine springs into life and runs for 30-40 seconds (during which the immobiliser light continues to flash) - then cut out, gauges shut down, ignition dead, immobiliser red light off. Repeat the above - exactly the same, 30-40 seconds normal tick over then dead. I've whizzed round all main earths and cleaned, reset. Tried swapping the DME relay - but thought that wouldn't shut down ignition etc anyway? My manual doesn't show an immobiliser so I'm not sure if it's original or aftermarket by a previous owner. The immobiliser has a 5mm dia jack key, key point immediately above the ignition key position. I'm not even sure whether that's the issue and if so even where it is!! I hope that someone can shed some light on this. Thanks Richard
  7. ECUs direct advertise refurb'd units on eBay UK (search Bosch air flow meter) - they look like they have decent feedback so may be worth giving them a call?
  8. Putting the bearing in the freezer overnight can make the bearing install into the carrier easier whilst warming the hub in the oven can make the hub install easier too.
  9. All, I've cleaned battery earth point, ditto inlet manifold and behind the fuel filter earths, cleaned and reset all connectors to the MAF and ICV ( gave the ICV a carb cleaner flush thru only last week) - all were fairly good with just minor corrosion. Also checked the rotor arm and dist cap - both were good and no signs of burn/tracking. Have had a quick spin (started raining so cut short after only 5 mins) - however some or all of the above do seem to have made a big difference !! Hopefully a longer test tomorrow. In the meantime, brilliant and many thanks Richard
  10. Red I'd seen your post and thread last night and spotted the similarities too, however mine doesn't appear to be weather or running duration linked, but I will check the rotor, DC and HT leads as per suggestions. I'm not sure what the CHT sensor is, but I'll try to locate that too and put a meter on it. Good luck with sorting your issues. Richard
  11. All - thanks for advice so far. The issue occurs at low revs/ light throttle around 2000rpm, irrespective of gear. Battery ground is freshly cleaned, but I don't recall doing some of the others so I'll work thru those and the AFM connector tomorrow - see if that helps. The car also pops quite a lot on overrun - so not sure if that is related ? I'm always so tempted to drive it like I stole it - and usually pleasantly surprised I'm still alive when I get home! Richard
  12. Hi Guys - your help/advice requested please! My '84 3.2 cab pulls really strongly when pressed, however at low/mid range revs at constant speed or under gentle/throttle acceleration it is lumpy/fluttering, whilst a touch more throttle clears the issue. Idle is steady, with not even slightest misfire. Electrics are all in good order, new'ish plugs, etc. Any advice most appreciated Thanks Richard
  13. Nige, Thanks for your advice on this, the valve was pretty grubby inside, some debris flushed out and the idle speed has settled down nicely. Great thanks. Richard
  14. Nige, Thanks for this - I'm back from a weekend away, so will give this a go this evening and let you know how I get on. Thanks Richard
  15. Hi - some help please ! My 1984 3.2 Cab runs really well and pulls strongly thru the rev range, however when the engine is hot the idle speed sits at around 1200rpm, if I blip the throttle it then settles to a nice 900rpm. I've renewed the throttle return spring (Porsche part), checked and greased all under body pivots etc, which are all free and the pedal is returning fine - the throttle is returning hard against the stop on the throttle housing. Any advice would be appreciated Thanks Richard
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