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  1. RobDob

    Front wheel hubs

    Hi Alex, I’ll take them if Arlo doesn’t have them. I’m based near Reading. thanks rob
  2. Hi Bellaboots / All, Installed the chip this evening, took a bit of faffing to get the ECU out but was fine. Started straight up, decided to go for a quick 30 min drive for a trial... What can I say but WOW! Completely changed the car. Cheers, Rob
  3. Cheers! I had been umming and arring for a while, this was just too good to miss. Will let you know how I get on with it. Thanks, Rob
  4. Hey bellaboots, just bought it for my 88 coupe. Thanks for the heads up! Cheers, Rob
  5. Thanks for the comments guys. Thought as much. What I didn't want todo is to have a rebuild but to add negligible amount of value to the car. My logic was that it is quite a high miler so thought that May limit any value increase. Greg, understand your points on the rust on the front wings. I did have it checked out by the guy who did my sills and kidneys (Robin Dalwood, ex Autofarm) and he said it basically needs a couple of new wings really. This is something on my todo list. You mentioned getting. It stripped back to bare metal, have you done this with the whole car? Thanks, Rob
  6. Hey, I have a 1988 Guards Red coupe sport with turbo linen leather interior and red carpets. No modifications. Milage is currently 182k, engine is a little tired but doesn't smoke or use much oil. Car has FSH by Camtune and Northway. I had both kidneys, sills and door shuts replaced last year. The only other bit of rust that it has is a small bit by the bellows on the front wings, so at some point these will need to be changed but ok for now... Rest of the car is in good shape. Reason I'm asking is that I'm booked in to get the engine rebuilt by Tony at Wrightune in the next few weeks and I wondered how much value the rebuild would add to the car. Have agreed insurance value of £18k at the moment. I know it's difficult to assess but just thought you guys might have some thoughts on this. Thanks, Rob
  7. Hi Steve, Ok, deal. I'll send you my address once you PM me. Thanks, Rob
  8. Hi Steve, Would you accept £50 plus the postage? Thanks, Rob
  9. RobDob

    Gearknob re-trim

    Hi, I spent quite a while before Christmas looking for somebody who would re-trim my g50 gear knob. I wasn't really keen on a newer after market one and wanted to maintain the original look of my linen leather one. Anyway, I found a guy in Steventon called Paul (South of Abingdon) who does allot of work for Williams F1, Classic car re-trimming etc... He managed to find a piece of leather which matches my interior out of some he already had in stock. I'm really impressed with his work so thought I would post it here. Few pictures of before and after: Before: After: The good thing about Paul's service is that he has a leather thinning machine which gives a much nicer finish to tight fitting things such as the gear knob... Most general purpose re-trimmers don't have this. Paul's number is: 01235 528893 (Very decent bloke) Cheers, Rob
  10. Hi Guys, Figured out what my problem was. I was reading the cylinder order the wrong way round! So what i thought was cylinder 1 was in fact cylindet 6... What a donkey. Anyway, i adjusted them this morning and it sounds great now. Thanks for your input. Rob
  11. Hi Guys, Thanks for the replys. Jevvy, I think they were a little too tight to statr with to be honest. I checked a couple of real offenders (noticably cylinders 5 and 2, exausht) and they were quite tight when i first checked them. Its very tappety now, was no where near as bad before i did the adjustment. r.e. "as soon as you move it(even a smidge) then the gap size is irrelevant", i thought that with the timing set to TDC then this is the point where the rocker would have the most play hence why you set it here. The rest of the duration of the cam would then put the rocker under load and hence no gap at all.. Nige, it is the first time for me, the engine was completely cold, left it overnight to be sure. Nathan, thanks for the info on the backside method, seems like a better approach to me. Will give that a go... Will keep you posted. Thanks, Rob
  12. Hi Nathan, Thanks for your reply. Yes i made sure that the rotor arm in the dist was pointing to cylinder no 1 and z1 mark on the crank was aligned. There are two marks on my pulley, one says z1 and one slightly before this which is BTDC, i used z1. I'm stumpted at the moment. Thanks, Rob
  13. Hi, I have a 88 with 178k on the engine which as far as i know hasnt had a top end rebuild. Engine doesnt smoke or use any excessive oil and pulled well. I decided last weekend that i would check the valve clearances just as a matter of course. Before this the engine didnt really sound very tappety and sounded pretty good. After strictly adhereing to the prescribed procedure (as found on Pelican / Haynes manual etc.. using TDC method and Z1 Timing on crank) i find that the engine is very tappety / noisy. So, took the valve covers off again to check and all seems fine when checking againt know procedure, however i have noticed that even when setting the valve clearance to the right amount say on no 1 cylinder, if you then rotate the crank a bit further from the adjust Number 1 valve TDC to move to the next valve, then the previous valve clearance i.e. Number 1 cylnder then becomes bigger i.e. more slack and out of tolerance (quite significantly). I used number 1 Cylinder as an example here i think they all do it but mainly Cylinder 2 and 5 are the worse... Is this usual? Im confused by it. When i first checked the clearances i did think that some of the valves were tight... Thanks, Rob

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