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Showing results for tags 'fixing'.
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Evening! I am in the process of replacing my seals on the injectors and the seal kit is very different to the bits on the car. Has an extra seal but more importantly the cap and spacer are a different size. In the pic below, the top row is what came with the new kit and the bottom is what came off one of the injectors. The packaging for the seal kit matches the number in the pdf PET diagram, 944 110 901 00 and the injector number 0280 150 158 appears to be correct (after a quick Google). Has anyone else had this issue? Am I missing something? Thanks
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I’ve just been advised that I’ve hit and broken one of my ARB mounts. Has anyone replaced these as I see there are a few options. I don’t track my car, so would the standard ones be ok. I have someone to weld, but was thinking of grinding the old ones away myself? Any advice would much appreciated
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Hi guys I see there's quite a few of you on this forum that have fitted the 993 bischoff heat exchangers on their 3.2's. I've got my motor on a stand at the moment doing a 35 year refresh and fitting these as well as doing a heat backdate. I was doing a valve adjustment when I went to do the exhaust and realized that I couldn't get the lower valve covers off with the Bischoff heat exchangers installed on the motor. I eventually managed to avoid having to pull the heater boxes off by doubling up nuts on a couple of the valve cover studs to remove them with the cover in situ. What a pain! I can't imagine doing this with the engine in the car. Have any of you encountered this problem?
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I've fitted a new side seal to the top and the front corner is a very tight fit. Two questions. There is an "ear" on the windscreen frame to hold the seal in position, should this be moved at all to help the fit, and can anyone post a photo of the old seal type in case that is the problem New seals fitted back and front but the front corner with the new side seal is a very tight fit. I know there are many previous posts on this subject but any help/ advice would be welcome. Lastly, Does anyone know where that excellent video on fitting and generally fettling Targa tops has gone? It is no longer available on Youtube.
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Hi everyone, I have a quick question. I am looking for seat options for a Carrera made in OCT 83. Was tartan ever a period correct option in 83/84. What other options were there for cars of that era? Pictures is the car currently and I want to spruce it up. I am toying between tartan/pinstripe/plain old leather! Thank you all!
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after living with the dreaded click very intermittent but getting worse every time ,was passing matt,s shop bought new starter and gear box earth strap ,well after spending an hour under the car jacked up on axel stands trying to remove the first lower bolt meant to be the the easy one absolutely rusted in gave up ,so car off to autosrasse in essex at least it made me feel a bit better when they even couldn't do it with the engine in they had to drop the engine to do it which was way beyond my spanner skills at home ,it just made me realise for me its better to pay some one to just do it than wind myself up getting frustrated I'm just a turn the key and go porsche driver 🤓
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Repaired pressure accumulator last year as diaphragm had gone resulting in unmetered fuel being sucked into intake through vac pipe. Plugs were black . Just been out for 130 mile run and plugs now look like this. Does this look ok .... not too weak? Idle mixture easy to adjust but beyond that not sure how to or if adjustable
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Hi, expecting a GT3 exhaust system any day now from TT and trying to find a new rear valance that I can cut out for the center outlets. Hard to find any without cutouts in the end or ends. Any suggestions from you guys, prefer metal of course but...
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Does anyone know if there is anywhere to get these door jamb stickers from please. After car re spray I would like to replace them Keith
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I went to see the car today to deliver some parts for the ongoing work. My painter showed me the broken strap and bracket for the charcoal filter. They both need replacing so I got online and looked for prices.....£240!! Now I do get the concept of ‘Porsche tax’ but this is ridiculously expensive. I eventually found a used one that with a clean up will be fine on eBay for £45 which I purchased but why is such a simple non-complex part so expensive?
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I’m embarking on restoring my 86’ Carrera coupe and could do with some advice. I’ve loads to do but thankfully bodyshop doing the important stuff. The car’s been in storage for many years and I have the mother of all shopping lists, starting with interior would anyone know a good firm to retrim the dashboard and rear parcel shelf which are badly out of shape where they meet the glass, a common problem I’m told. Also sunroof is leaking and inoperable so I was given advice that it was best to have it sealed up and disconnected, I’m not particularly bothered about using it but is this done by some owners and how would I go about it? In terms of lights. Can I upgrade the front lights to LED or just something significantly brighter than standard? I was also hoping of doing away with the rear fog lamp (under bumper) and hoped I could replace one of the reverse lamp bulbs with a red led and have the wiring changed, is this something which others do and will it prove an issue when I MOT the car? lastly, I’m keen to fit rear seatbelts. How straight forward and costly would this be? I imagine the rear parcel shelf will then need to be a later version to take recoiled belts? I appreciate any of your valuable advice 👍🏻
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I just came back from a week's holiday in my 3.2, starting with the trip down to the Goodwood Revival, we then headed to Dorset, then Dartmouth and Dartmoor. On the way back to the North we took in the Severn Valley Railway Autumn Gala, coming back up the A49 last night I even got to show a modern 911 kettle cabriolet a clean pair of heels, great fun! The weather was ridiculously good for September, and there lies my problem... I have checked out a bunch of threads where these cars have issues hot starting, unfortunately with a variety of causes, and a lot where no definite culprit ever seems to be found. I'm sure mine is definitely a mixture thing, all week the car has run perfectly, started from cold easily, and last night when the temperature dropped as we came back to the frozen north, she started fine once safely in the garage (several times) in the cooler air, despite being hot from idling outside after the journey, while we unloaded. When the sun is out and the air is hot, however, she spins and spins with not a cough, until finally bursting into life after what seems like an age. Luckily I have a new battery, more than anything its embarrassing as people suck air through their teeth like a builder doing an estimate and give a look that says 'nice car, mate, shame it doesn't go!' It did this the other week when I went to a car show at Capesthorne hall, when it was similarly a mad hot day. I suspect that the fuel is vaporisng in the lines or rails, or the mixture isn't right when the air is hot, however they can't 'all do that' as it tends to be hotter in Germany in the summer, if there were non starting 911s everywhere Porsche would have soon fixed the issue. I posted in someone else's starting problem thread while away, but got no feedback. There obviously is an issue, however whatever I do now or replace the problem is it might not be hot enough to act up again until next spring! Any suggestions as to what I should check in the meantime would be gratefully received. Plugs and tappets etc have been done recently, by the way.
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Just rebuilt parking brake , rear Calipers discs etc. Looking at the rear suspension how easy is it to strip and rebuild as I would like to clean everything up and repaint recon where necessary. Will read the manual but always good to hear from those who have done this and any care points before I embark on this. Thanks
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The aircon on my 1985 911 Carrera 2 hasn't worked properly for ages. When I asked a local specialist to recharge it he told me that it was originally filled with R12 gas. It is apparently illegal to use this now and the fittings for recharging it are different. I have been told if I get adaptors on e-bay they can charge it with the later gas 134 Although this has now been superseded you can still use it The Porsche manual says if you have lost gas you should replace the drier unit. The questions are Will the system work OK with 134 gas ? Where are the charging points ? Do I need to change the drier HELP !!!
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Hello all I will do an introduction mid week when I pick up my new 82. Being a US spec would there be any benefit to fitting a decat pipe?? would this also require a check of mixture or will the lambda take care of this ?? will there be a noticeable change to exhaust note?? thanks for any input
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Just purchased '87 911 3.2. Will likely only use if during the warmer months (not often) for touring European Apls etc. Not sure what to do with the original AC, I was thinking to remove it and do without so I can gain more power but at the same time I don't want to be too hot. Any advice? Tx Chris
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I have a very nice 3.2 Jubilee Coupe which has had no bodywork. It was in it's day a concourse car so had a full re-spray and has a consistent 350 microns paint thickness. The bodywork is very solid and it's just flown through it's mot ... but ! Around the door shuts I'm just starting to see tiny blebs of corrosion which are still beneath the paint (I've known the car for five years !) and this is stopping form wanting to drive the car if there is any chance of rain. I love the car. But how can I preserve it without taking the chance on having to slice out the originality of the car ? I could just ignore it until structural work is demanded but ? What options ? Thanks, Chris
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Hi, I have an '84 3.2 Would not start yesterday and assumed it was the relay. Checked the relay in situ and there is power to Pin86 and when ignition is on there is power to Pin 87 but there is no power to the fuse. Jumped the fuse and I can hear the pump Any ideas welcome. Thank you.
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I have a US sourced 1982 sc with 33,000 miles. I have spent the last few months trying to sort out a high idle problem. I have replaced the Warm Up Regulator, and the Aux Air Valve, and followed the vacuum hoses with propane but I have an issue where the car will idle at 900 rpm when cold, but will rise to 1,200 after about 5 minutes! Could the WUR be working in reverse?? Or the AAV?? I have had the mixture checked and it is running fine in terms of CO2 and MO2
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Hi, I have an 84 3.2 and just recently the windows will not work when the doors are closed but will work with the door open. I removed the wiring loom in the door and checked it for any breaks or shorts and it was fine. I traced it back to the pin switch on the door jamb. I could hear the relay clicking of the relay when operating the switch. I removed the dials and located the relay which is a standard all purpose round relay 911-615-109-01. I replaced it and still have the same problem. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank you.
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I joined this forum to ask you British guys a few question. I live in Miami and have a 77 911 that I have driven for over thirty years all the time and do a lot of my own repairs. I have been watching “free tv” specifically Car SOS and Wheeler Dealers. Some of the cars they fix would be crushed in the states because of the cost of the rust repair and lack of skills. The “specialist” skills I see on these shows are incredible by state side standard particularly panel beaters. There are a lot of rusty air cooled 911 in Miami to be had cheap. I figure with special crates I could ship four cars over and back in a 40 foot container for $1500 per car. my questions: What is the hourly rate for body work in England? Stateside it’s about 100- 125 pounds/ hour What does a good whole car paint job cost here say with PPG paint? Not sure I posted this in the correct section of this forum so let me know please. Miami Ryce (thanks Robinwild for the new tag) My car
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Door Pocket Lids - PN#: 911555039/040. My lids have up to a 3/4"(19 mm) depression from end at mounting to center to other end at mounting. My pocket upper line is straight & not deformed. I searched this complete forum, not finding anyone asking how to straighten these lids. I could blame this on American drivers, BUT they usually hang their arm out the window, not rest it in the lid< Mine are in very good shape so my interest is to repair them. **See pic**. Thanks group & Merry Christmas to all !!
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Can anyone help please ! At the end of the Summer the speedo in my 3.2 '84 cab suffered the common 100k miles problem with the oddometer ceasing to function - so I carefully removed the speedo, labelled all connections and sent it off to for repair. The speedo was returned within a few days. I finally got around to re-installing it today, carefully following my labelling, but now when I start the car the speedo needle swings round c 60 degrees before settling back at zero and the internal gauge lights turn on and off when switching between dip and main beam - so something is wrong with the connections. My labelling and notes show, in this order going down the connector block ; Black and red (single cable) to + ve, White and red (single cable) to A, Two Brown and red cables, to 31B via a piggy back common connector and at the bottom terminal two brown and one brown and red to the -ve terminal via a piggy back common connector. I've not disconnected any of the piggy backs so they've not got mixed up. Can anyone confirm that I've connected these correctly. Thanks Richard
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Hi , Been changing the three hoses in the high pressure fuel injection circuit and have removed the RH manifold in order to make this feasible without bending pipes to get them off . The manifold came off easily with the top gasket stuck to the manifold with the insulator and bottom gasket remaining in place on the head. Question is regarding wisdom of just replacing the top gasket between insulator and manifold rather than disturbing it all . I have bought all the parts to do it but don't want to do more than is necessary. Removing the lower gasket with all the engine shrouds in place does not look easy as it is recessed below the engine shrouds. Thanks David
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Could anyone remind me if the underside of the rear bumper is threaded which take the screws to mount the rear valance in place..... or are they self tappers ? Cheers, Nick.
