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Showing results for tags 'repairs'.
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Looking for some electrical help please. My hydraulic lift trailer is not lifting or lowering. I've designed a two relay circuit to power the pump in forward and reverse which works well. My issue is that I simply don't understand why the attached component is there! I believe it to be a bridge rectifier but only three connections are in use and there is no AC anywhere in this area - it's all 12v DC. Could it be there to cover someone pressing both buttons at once? Can anyone help?
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I joined this forum to ask you British guys a few question. I live in Miami and have a 77 911 that I have driven for over thirty years all the time and do a lot of my own repairs. I have been watching “free tv” specifically Car SOS and Wheeler Dealers. Some of the cars they fix would be crushed in the states because of the cost of the rust repair and lack of skills. The “specialist” skills I see on these shows are incredible by state side standard particularly panel beaters. There are a lot of rusty air cooled 911 in Miami to be had cheap. I figure with special crates I could ship four cars over and back in a 40 foot container for $1500 per car. my questions: What is the hourly rate for body work in England? Stateside it’s about 100- 125 pounds/ hour What does a good whole car paint job cost here say with PPG paint? Not sure I posted this in the correct section of this forum so let me know please. Miami Ryce (thanks Robinwild for the new tag) My car
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Hi , I’m trying to find a wiring diagram showing me the wire sizes of the engine harness for a 1982 911 sc , I’ve spent ages trying to find one online but can’t seem to locate ! cheers
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Hi all Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere but.... I need to replace the heat exchangers on my 1987 (G50) 911. Immediate thought was time for SSI’s which seem to be the thing to do...However, I would like to keep my current back box (a Turbo Thomas one which sounds great (IMO) together with a straight through pipe replacing the pre silencer), and is a one in, one out item. A bit of research suggests that the SSI’s need a 2 in back box. I could go all in for the full set up, which seems to provide a bit of a performance gain (although I am a bit of a cynic here, despite the evidence - have always been a doubter...), but it seems a bit of a shame to do away the current back box. One option would be standard items, but I would like stainless. There do seem to be some stainless options offered by certain aftermarket retailers, but I am concerned about quality. Any thoughts and advice would be much appreciated. Pedders.
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I have an '82 coupe with a factory fitted Aircon system that was disconnected when I acquired the car last year. After this sweltering summer I'm looking for an aircon specialist thats either mobile or (North) London based to re-gas and reconnect the system. Any recommendations? Cheers, James
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Evening All New to the forum. Glad to be on board. Days away from taking delivery of my newly restored 1981 SC. Interior and exterior refurbishment by the very excellent Whisper 911 near Maidenhead. More pics to follow once on the road..
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Hello Group>> Since I now have time & with this 70*f day, I finally started back reacquainting myself with the task ahead of me, reassembling the CIS back to my engine. I know the answer for my first question. Does the Intake Tube ID need cleaned for better performance, but how to is the open question? Since the Intake Tubes are off & the injectors are visible, I see rust<<. I have no knowledge if they'd ever been changed. So in my Intake Tube cleaning process, will the injectors be cleaned as well (or) should I just replace them. If I'm to replace them, are the requirements for our C3 different than those of a '1978' SC? I didn't see the injector nozzles called out in my PET program+/- Thank You Gentleman
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Has anyone got any good experience of getting their targa roof recovered? Mine is starting to split on the leading edge, and the temporary fix I applied last year won't last for ever... Recommendations of good trimmers/body shops within a 25 mile radius of Evesham preferred. Also an idea of costs would be helpful
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Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera 1983 build, 1984 registered. Technical question........... Am having a rough idle problem on the 911 (Hunting) Only usually from cold or when idling in traffic on a hot day. Have checked for air leaks & can't find any. Have also removed the Idle Control Valve & cleaned it out. Problem still persists. Any pointers as to what to look for next?
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Okay I'm new to the chit chatting but I've been reading the sc form for a long time so I come out off the dark corner. I've got a 1967 912 and had a 1981 sc for 6 months now but just last week got space to put it in garage ... And now I'll set about sorting all the little bits. So all lights work now apart from the one in the engine bay I imagine that switches on when you roll the cover back bulb is good so will strip that back soon. i will up load a few pictures. It's 1981 sc with sports pack, 62k on the clock. And I've only driven it one foot.... Now two car in front off it. Safety reasons and space. I did want to talk about, what's the best things to dissconect so it won't start... Also I was showing it to my machnic buddy I said did he want to hear it runner, which he suggested to dissconect the points so it wouldn't fire up so not to leave water to rot the pipes and sorry dyslexic so can't get spell check to do eggzorst. So can anyone help me with this locking nut on the wheels as I have not bolt to take it off and my mate who bought the car off. Hadn't noticed it as he never used the car or took the wheels off. Need to get to the breaks you see. I think my first big job would be to remove the sun roof, as it don't seem to be working as good as one would expect, seem like it's slipping and struggling and I have to push it in place ... And worried it might leak water in I hear they do let water in and it runs off to the back window. is there any good manuals which talk you through this process or utube videos as I've search as far and wide as I can... The foot I did drive it seems the clutch bits in fast. Gear box was serviced at 59k which is good news. Well hi to everyone and look forward to chatting and getting this sc back fully working... The body work can wait as its a tight narrow gap i have to get it through. And I can't see myself driving it over winter apart from m.o.t ing...
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Hi all, I have taken delivery of a new front bumper license plate holder for a European 1989 Carrera as the original one is missing . I purchased the entire assembly kit from Type 911, all good, however I now have a bunch of bags with various screws / washers etc., would anyone have a diagram or can advise on the sequence of assembly / fixing to the front bumper. Tks C
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I'm hoping that another 1974 2.7 MFI Carrera RHD (Targa) owner can help me identify what type (metal or plastic) and colour (silver or black) engine lid grille would have originally been supplied with my car, which has a rear wiper that was fitted at the time of manufacture. My chassis number is 9114610363 and the car was produced in May 1974 with a UK registration date of 18th June 1974 When I bought the car back in 1986, the previous owner had fitted a later whale-tail spoiler (first hand information) and so the original grille did not come with the car. Since returning to the original plain engine lid with rear wiper, I fitted a genuine Porsche black plastic grille which I had to modify by cutting a notch in the plastic grille so that the rear wiper drive would not interfere. This suggests that my car did not originally have the black plastic grille. If I rule out the plastic option, then I'm left with the metal grille finished in either black or silver. My car has a black trim so the black metal grille seems the most likely which which looks slightly smaller in photos and doesn't foul the rear wiper hole in the metal lid. The company that has been restoring my car tell me that a number of 1974 2.7 MFI Carreras that they have had through their workshop, all had the black plastic grille BUT they also said that all the cars were Coupes, and none had rear wipers. With the high price of the Porsche supplied metal, black engine lid grille, I need to be pretty sure that this is what my car would originally have been built with before I buy one ; so I would like to ask other 1974 2.7 MFI G-Series RHD Carrera (Targa) owners with rear wipers if they would be kind enough to let me know what grille type and colour they have fitted to their cars. Ive attached 2 phots of my car (white lid) and also a photo from a 1974 Carrera coupe without rear wiper which shows the metal grille not covering the hole above that the rear wiper driveshaft protrudes from. Thanks for your help, Richard
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Evening all... Just a quick note to see if anyone has had this issue - I've spent a couple of hours today looking at it (between doing the wheel bearings that went well) but drawn a blank. Going to look deeper tomorrow but wonder if anyone can help... I've checked / cleaned all the usual things like fuses and the ground points at the battery, behind the fuse box and on the engine. There is no power going to the wiper stalk and the push in fitting that comes off the stalk loom is firmly pushed into the socket behind the dash. I was thinking the next thing to check could be the ignition switch as all these things should come on with ignition? It can't be relay with the 3 things out can it? Thanks :-) Adam I'll update this thread with my findings... -
Hi I wonder if anyone can help me I've not long owned Porsche 911 carrera 3.2 1983 I went for a drive in it today stopped off at a friends house Came back to the car started it up drove off stopped at the junction and it stopped running Started it up again And it just seem to run the rough and misfire all over the place any ideas Micky
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I had touched the positive clamp leg of my battery charger cable to the body while connecting. Quick spark. Now I only get a click from my starter when trying to start. Replaced my battery with a fully charged battery to check, got same response. Looked at fuse panel, none blown. Is there an in-line fuse under the dash, or elsewhere, couldn't find one! One response from my post in P-P was to attempt to spin starter by direct battery wiring to the starter lug & housing, in car I'd think this attempt would be dangerous. Help please. -
Good morning On my way to a local car meet this morning, sat at 4000 rpm and suddenly the red charge light comes on. Oh ballcocks. I stopped, checked the fan belt and wriggled all the connections, the red light still stays on. Car starts easily (earth strap must be sound) so I turned round and came back home. I've now checked all the fuses and voltage regulator connections, wriggled even more wires and the red light is still on when the engine starts. Tomorrow I will scrounge a multimeter to check the output at the (six month old) battery. I'm thinking either a dead alternator or voltage regulator. I seem to have two parts to the regulator, is this correct? Or could there be a wire somewhere that is prone to falling off? So, my Porsche friends, any advice? Thanks Paul 1979 911 SC 3.0L
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Hello, Well im new here so, Hello to everybody. My plan is to buy 911 model 911SC from 1978-1983 or 930 Turbo 1982 - 1985 it depends on what kind of car i will find (condition and how much it will cost). I have no experience in restoration but have some mecanics in town who are capable and have necesary experience i hope for this kind of job. I will buy car that is in good condition, rust free as much as it is possible (my market is Germany, Swiss and Austria) (if it is going to be 911SC i will spent around 30.000eur or if it is 930 Turbo max 55.000eur), i will search and maybe find something cheaper but i doubt i will find it. Now what i would like to do with this cars is to restore them so that every part is shiny and like new, everything must be in perfect shape and maybe do some customization like Recaro new seats, maybe dashboard little bit different etc. I wannt to be able to drive this car everyday next 30 years. So my question is how much it can cost me this kind of job, where to look for parts (new and used), some tips and if any of you guys know someone near Austria who can do this kind of job. Well i want to something like on this photos i have attached. Sorry if i am writing under wrong category. Thanks.
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Hi, I have a 1975 911S which has a couple of cracks in the dashboard and on one of the door cappings. Does anyone know where I can get these repaired. I know I can get a re-manufactured dashboard topping for £1499(ouch)!! I seem to recall a few years ago that there were specialists that could carry out these repairs, any help/advice will be appreciated. Photos are below Many thanks Tom
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Hello All, I wish my first post on this site was for something simpler, but...I have owned my 1976 2.7 narrow body for coming up a year now, but unfortunately on a trip back from the coast the last week, it developed a nasty rattle /banging noise from the engine. The engine in theory had only done 70K since its last rebuild, although that was in 1983! I took it to a specialist who has diagnosed the sound as a big end bearing letting go. Ouch! I have a bit of 'spannering' experience so have decided to attempt as much of the work myself as possible. So I am looking to drop the engine/box in the next week & begin stripping the engine. I have a couple of questions I am hoping you guys can answer... 1. Is there anywhere/anyone from whom I can hire/borrow some of specialist tools needed to get the engine apart, e.g the tools for releasing the cams/sprockets? Or I am going to have to buy them all?! 2. If (more than likely), the block, heads & crank need some machining work, is there someone reasonably local to me that anyone can recommend? (I live in NE Surrey, near Woking). 3. Is there some secret to removing the hard oil line from the engine? I think I am going to have to saw the hard line off & buy a new one because it isn't freeing up! 4. I was thinking of removing the engine & gearbox in one piece. I have read Wayne Dempsey's site/book where he removes the engine on its own, but I am worried about damaging the gearbox trying this method, never mind trying to re-mate the engine to the box when re-fitting! Any opinions / advice would be welcome. Many thanks in advance! Paul.
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Posted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:21 pm Post subject: 1979 911SC Sportomatic Hi Everyone, I'm new to the site and 911's, although my first car was a beetle 30 years ago, if that counts... The aforementioned Sportomatic is my first classic car and Porsche. It has some idiosyncrasies, the main one being that when changing gear from L1 to D and D2, the clutch seems to be slipping; Simple questions:- Is the Torque converter fed oil from Engine or transmission ? And if transmission could the level be low; ? I've checked the engine oil level and this is optimum. Is the 'slipping' likely to be TC or clutch issue ? The heater is on full blast. Is this just the cable on the lever next to the drivers seat (RHD) ?? that could be broken ? It has the thermostatic control between the seats which doesn't seem to do anything, could this be at fault ? When set to off, as in the diagram inside the glove box describing the heater controls on the dashboard, there is movement from screen to feet, but I still cannot reduce the temperature. Is the Sportomatic register still going ?, I have some good history with the car and will try and make contact, but maybe someone knows ? I'm looking forward to a little bit of tinkering so please anyone with any ideas, post back, Thanks. CG.
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IBs come and go, and most owners come and go with them. Some don't, as they like to stay here! Former IB owners have been bugging me for a forum to detail their other Porsche and non-Porsche classics. Go for it!
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Hi all, Over the next few days (and weeks) I'll be adding parts that I have which are surplus to requirements. There are a few bits off my car that are incorrect and that are being replaced with the correct items. There are also parts from a 3.0 SC engine I bought as a basis for my hotrod motor which is (a long way )over the horizon at some point. No point having all the bits I won't the using taking up shelf space though. I'll also be popping the bits over on DDK in the interest of getting maximum exposure. In line with recent guidance, all the process is to be carried out in thread. Any questions, please ask. Chris 1) Metal 2.7 badge. Never fitted. Been in the glove box of my car since I bought it, but not correct. Couple of tiny marks I am confident will polish out with Autosol £36 on Design911 - £25 posted
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Hi all thanks for your recent help on my reversing light issue. I checked the bulbs at the weekend and they appeared to be ok so decided to let a professional sort it ahead of the mot. I have been looking at different garages and the following are close to me Autowerkstatt Unit 2 Woodmans Yard Little Tingwick Buckinghamshire Contact JGC PORSCHE Specialist Email: info@jgcporsche.co.uk Tel: 01280 308793 Mob: 07713 252859 Unit C4 Lincoln Park Buckingham Road Industrial Estate Brackley nr Silverstone Northamptonshire NN13 7BE Can anybody let me know if they have used these guys before and if they were happy with them. Appreciate your thoughts.
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Many years ago I replaced the original plain metal engine lid on my 1974 Carrera with a fibreglass ducktail and did not refit the rear wiper assembly due to the weight. Im now in the process of changing back to the original metal lid and (stupidly) did not note down the colour of the 4 wires that go to the 4 terminals on the electric motor. Please could someone help me out with what wire goes where? Thanks, Richard -
A quick drive in the rain last week proved that while there is hot air coming from behind (I have the auto rotary thermostat between the seats, rather than levers) there is nothing being blown, the only way to demist was to combine hot and cold air, using the front fresh air blower. Using the thermosatic control with the ignition on but the engine stopped, when I turn it up or down you can hear the cables to the heater valves working, but there is no fan, no force behind the hot air. The blower fan in the engine bay is silent, even on Max. I know these can fail, but how would you go about making sure before spending £££? I have checked the fuse, BTW.
